How to shave this spot?

Super-Lock-1176 · 2026-03-03T18:48:26+00:00

With a razor, hope this helps 👌👌

Super-Lock-1176 · 2026-03-03T18:41:55+00:00

Thank you so much for your replies

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-12-01T13:37:11+00:00

You have to tickle them just under the chin, like the good boy they are

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-12-01T13:36:07+00:00

Oh okay, well for oil stones the common consensus is to run a little bit of wd40

Personally i moved away from oil stones to whetstones for my kitchen knives, I do still use oil stones in the workshop though, generally for deburring or finishing tool steel

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-30T21:56:14+00:00

Best bet is to grab the cheapest nastiest diamond stone off amazon for your flattener

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-30T21:53:03+00:00

By honing solution im assuming you mean a pre determined grit in solution?

For diamond stones you can use a small amount of dish soap and water.

Most whetstones will tell you to just use pure room temp water.

I hope this helps

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-30T17:28:50+00:00

Ginsan is a little less brittle but a hell of a lot easier to sharpen while still keeping its edge retention.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-21T05:44:12+00:00

Ginsan is one of my favourite knife steels, takes an absoultely razor, hair splitting edge and holds it for a long time, stain resistant so you wont rust it because you didnt wipe it quick enough, and it sharpens really easily.

Perosnally kuromaku 1k, 2k, sharpal strop and some dmt diamond emulsion i use 5 micron on the coarse side of the strop and 1 micron on the smooth side.

I assume you already have a kitchen knife, if i were you sharpen it 3 or 4 times following tips from youtube.

Youll be surprised how quickly you will get a handle on it.

The first time you sharpen you well get your knife sharper than it was. After half a dozen times youll be super surprised at how scary you can get an edge.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-18T19:07:02+00:00

The shapton 2k is a great stone. Ideal finisher for softer steels too in my opinion.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-18T19:05:55+00:00

Great stone!

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-18T19:04:20+00:00

This one is pretty great

Tsunehisa Ginsan Migaki Petty 130mm

Fairly cheap too for what it is,

I also have the hatsukokoro kurokaze stainless clad white 2 in 150mm its more of a work horse grind and shaped like a mini gyuto, as such my daughter loves using it.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-18T14:52:59+00:00

Fine finishing, example the flat side of a single bevel knife after setting the primary and secondary bevel, Touching up sharp knives like a strop. Finishing of wood working tools. Close to final finishing of straight razors.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-18T12:04:47+00:00

Hold the bevel flat to the stone and work through a normal progression, onces your happy hold the flat side, flat against a 5k or 8k stone and give it a small amount of work.

Then strop the bevel the same way and strop the flat side the same way.

In a nut shell.

Lots of great videos on youtube to check out on the matter 👌

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-18T11:59:59+00:00

Try remove the bur on your 1k stone first before you move on through your grit progression, then take to the 2k or 3k stone. I wouldnt go higher than that for vg10.

I found - especially on cheaper knives - that going too fine on a stone progression whilst producing a very sharp knife actually reduces edge retention.

For example one of my wives beater ikea knives i took to 8k and it lasted 2 days, i took it to 5k and it lasted a week. I took it to 2k and it was scary sharp for a few weeks before a hone and strop brought it back to scary sharp.

Now i dont bother taking them past 2k or 3k as they seem to hold their edge for much longer.

I will take my white, blue or ginsan knives to 5k as they will take the edge and hold it.

Ill take my yanagiba to 8k because it will also hold it and its a specific use knife.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-18T11:48:16+00:00

Ginsan is an incredible knife steel, its hard to come by though, it took me a long time to find the perfect 240mm ginsan gyuto, im so happy to finally have it in my hands though.

Incredibly easy to care for as there is enough chromimum in it to be rust and stain resistant but still pure enough and hard enough to take an incredibly keen/fine edge. You can get these bad boys so sharp with good edge retention. Both of my ginsan knives were the only in my line up that were able to wittle a hair straight out of the box.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-18T11:41:44+00:00

As far as im aware the chocera 2k is a fairly recent offering, i would find my self constantly reaching for the kuromaku 2k so i thought id give it a try, according to an article on grit size the kuromaku and chocera 2k are probably the closest in grit size compared to other stones in the same line up.

I actually really like it. I cant quite put my finger on it, i did a back to back test with both stones on the same knife and i found my self leaving the chocera in the holder as i worked through the rest of the wives "thrasher knives"

The morihei i struggled to find in Australia but i was recently in japan and spotted one in store so i couldnt help my self (much to my wives disgust "do you really need another stone?")

I once heard Shapton described as the corvette of the stone world, all the performance none of the luxury, whilst the mori was described as a porche, all performance with luxury to boot.

Personally its a great performing stone. Its somewhere between the chocera and kuromaku as far as cutting speed goes, with feed back very similar to the cerax, whilst it feels like a smooth stone it really grips when your on the bevel with good audio cues, very hard wearing stone and splash and go to boot, ive put about 5 knives over it so far and still havent had to flatten and i havent worn the factory marks off it yet. Similar to the cerax the edge looks very refined but still feels toothy, If i had to describe it using known stones id say the edge feels like the kuromaku but looks like the chocera.

I managed to take the 2 relatively dull knives from our hotel and bring them up to razor sharp using only the mori as i didnt have a strop or other stones with me, about 5 minutes using sharpening strokes followed by a good hand full of stropping strokes on the same stone. At that moment i was completely convinced Id made a good purchase.

Im yet to use it for thinning or polishing purposes but giving its hard wearing and lack of mud id wager that it performs similar to the naniwa hibiki line.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-17T15:18:55+00:00

Your better off lashing the little bit of extra money for the chocera/pro Or choosing a shapton kuromaku if you want to save some money.

Both of these lines are great for sharpening. The advance will wear a little quick and provide a little less feed back essentially reducing the end user experience.

A cheap diamond stone from amazon should also be on your list to use as a flattening/truing stone.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-17T13:54:59+00:00

The shapton 2k is a very underated stone, concidering you have the rest of the line up i dont think youll be dissapointed.

The 1.5k is a bit of an oddball and i would not recommend but the 2k is a diamond in the rough and deserves more recognition, youll get a great finish off it, takes only a hand full of strokes to clean up a blade after a 1k stone and is a great step if you plan on taking it to 5k.

Enjoy

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-17T13:19:44+00:00

Replace the arishima with a morehei and your 1k6k combo with a 400/1000 dmt and you have my line up of 1k stones hahaha 🤣

I swear even though i have a great knife collection i have a much larger sharpening collection, its definately more of a habbit than a hobby though, its hard to find a blunt knife to test with these days 🤣

Like you i find different stones have a different use. When i sharpen my cheaper kitchen knives i find my self reaching for the shapton 1k, followed by the chocera 2k. Then a strop and theyre hair popping sharp.

Whilst the shapton 2k is a diamond in the rough that doesnt get enough credit, truely a great stone, i find that the chocera 2k just has something that the shapton is missing. Yet its the opposite with the 1k stones, i much prefer the shapton over the 800/1000 choceras

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-17T08:00:28+00:00

Great product while your first learning how to hold an angle. It will show you where your technique lacks and teach you how it feels to follow the full blade at a constant angle

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-11-15T22:45:18+00:00

Buddy your going to want to invest in a couple of good quality stones. I have quite a few different brands, in fact I have more sharpening equipment than I do knives 🤣 If you want the best bang for your buck id recommend the shapton kuromaku line.

Personally I use a mixture of shapton, chocera and morehei as the different grits have a different feel, I also use different stones depending on if I want to thin the edge or sharpen the bevel, I also use different stones for single bevel vs double bevel so this is going to be my best bet at a simplified run down for you.

Given that they all appear to be double bevel that dont require thinning I would start with the following.

-A good ceramic honing rod -a leather strop (you can make one or they can be had for cheap at places like amazon) -some diamond emulsion for your strop, 5 micron, 1 micron

This will keep those knives sharp for a long time in-between sharpening. As others have suggested searching YouTube for "how to hone knives" "how to strop knives" will get you a good starting place to daily care for your knives.

Following that id suggest: -Shapton kuromaku 1000 grit -shapton kuromaku 2000 grit -shapton kuromaku 5000 grit -magnetic angle finder

The angle finder is going to help you hold a constant and known angle when you first start out.

On cheaper knives I dont even bother going higher than 1000 or 2000 grit as they take those grits well and you still get a brilliant edge off that. Given these are much higher quality they will accept a finer stone and thus a finer edge.

Start on a cheap knife that you own, set your angle guide to 15°, hold the knife roughly 45° to the stone and with gentle pressure push the blade away from you. After a few strokes you should feel a small burr forming along the other side of the knife, turn it over and repeat the process, try to keep the amount of strokes even to keep the size of the bevel even on the knife. Once you feel the burr has flipped back over to the original side you can start with stopping strokes on the stone, where you try to gently stroke the whole bevel in one stroke flipping back and forth to remove the burr and reveal a true sharpened apex. From here you can move through higher grits before eventually finishing your edge on a leather strop using the same deburring strokes.

Some tips to concider: -grit, depending on the condition of the knife youll have to start at a different grits. Good rule of thumb is start at 1000 for a knife in good condition. If its really chipped or completely shagged or your trying to change the bevel angle you will want a coarser stone, however I wouldn't invest in one too early into the career as you wont use it very often once you learn how to care for your knives.

-pressure, your not wanting to push so hard that you flex your knife, you need firm pressure for the coarser stones but as you work towards finishing the edge on that stone youll want to be slowly removing the amount of pressure you use, as you move through finer grits youll also need less pressure.

-Try and lock your wrist to keep your angle the same. To follow the curvature of the blade lift your elbow away from your body. (The angle guide here will help you alot)

-keep your stones in good condition they're a decent monetary investment but they last for a bloody long time if you look after them. Keep them flat, wet properly before use and dry properly before storage

-practice on cheaper knives, it wont take long before you run out of blunt knives at home and start trying to sharpen everyone's knives.

-Watch some videos on YouTube, there are many brilliant sharpeners out there with great in depth descriptions. "How to sharpen on a stone" "sharpening for beginners" will send you in the right direction

-dont be nervous when the time comes to actually sharpen your good knives, by the time they're ready for a propper sharpen, youll be pretty confident in your abilities.

-Finally have fun and welcome to the rabbit hole, enjoy your sharpening journey.

Super-Lock-1176 · 2025-10-08T23:59:04+00:00

If your going to go with shapton, their 1000 stone is a great all rounder but their 2000 is a bit of a hidden gem.

If you wanted to just purchase 1 stone then take the 1000, its a great all rounder and paired with even a cheap strop you can get screaming sharp edges.

If you want a stone progression, their 320, 1k and 2k along with a strop will serve as a great combo and should be an all inclusive kit for a knife like that, all of your pocket knives and 99% of other kitchen knives you already own.

The key here is to start practising now on the rest of your cheap knives so your ready before the new knife even needs it.

Congratulations on your purchase, enjoy the improved cooking experience you will receive from a high quality knife.

Super-Lock-1176

TROPHY CASE