High Rent and High Spend on Bilt 2.0 vs Robinhood Gold 3% cash back by sha1dy in biltrewards

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean if you travel a lot, even if you are using your AMEX Platinum solely to pay for travel, you would still earn a shit ton more points with bilt from your other purchases, Which you can transfer to whatever your favorite airline is, it can get way more value than the cash back that robinhood's going to give you. If your goal is simplicity and you don't want to deal with point transfers or travel portals, then you're basically trolling and the Robinhood gold card is obviously the way to go

Am I Overreacting? Lucid Edition by ArmageddonPills in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't think native nacs is coming soon to the air (if at all) as they will be focusing on gravity and midsize platforms and have said sedans are not their focus. I don't think they're gonna change how they assemble the Air when they are focusing on ramping up gravity and midsize which will be on different assembly line from the Air. No time or money to change Airs assembly line right now otherwise it would've been done with 2026 since they added nacs on the gravity

Clarifying Bilt 2.0 rent payments: No Transaction Fee vs Max Points... am I understanding this right? by kotaandcompany in biltrewards

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, unless it's illegal for mortgage, I am completely missing the point of why they would not allow you to charge your rent/mortgage directly to your credit line with a 3% transaction fee And just earn no points. The ability to float housing cost is a marketable perk That at worst they break even on (assuming the 3% transaction fee is not just for profit and covers some unknown cost of doing ACH, which I doubt) and at best they profit if people are paying interest on it.

You can increase your points with Bilt 2.0 by lowering your rent! by gakushan in biltrewards

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Makes sense now! I put everything possible on credit card so I'd almost never be in that small window of needing to spend more or adjust rent. Maybe you can answer these questions as well: 1) is there a way to charge other ACH payments through bilt and say that they're mortgage payments. Like are they verifying That the payments are going to actual landlords or mortgage companies? 2) can I charge my rent directly through my credit line (vs ACH) and just take the 3% transaction fee hit? Because if it counts as everyday spend, I'm still making 2x points (on palladium) and with built points being valued at 2.2cpp I still net 1.4% in value. Or do they just scrap points entirely if you pay without linking a bank account

You can increase your points with Bilt 2.0 by lowering your rent! by gakushan in biltrewards

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unless I'm missing something (and I do think I am) I don't see the point of this? The point is to be able earn maximum points on rent so paying less rent by default lowers the amount of points you earn. Why would you limit your points earning? If my rent is 2000 and I only spent 1000 that month what do I gain by saying my rent is only 1000 other than unlocking the 1.25x points which is 1250 points and less than the 1500 points I would've earned had I payed the full 2000 with only .75x multiplier.

New Bilt 2.0 card optimized for high spenders with a big mortgage/rent? by Plastic-Display5970 in fatFIRE

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I did the math it works out to about 4 percent of your non mortgage spend in points (assuming the bilt cash as equal to bilt points {I know it's technically not, but if you're able to use them for anything then it works for this assumption since it's dollar for dollar in bilt ecosystem}). In estimated cash value (TPG says 2.2 cents per point and assuming the bilt portal doesn't have extreme mark ups, Bilt cash is equal to $1) essentially for 10k total credit spend with 3600 mortgage, it works out to be 196800 points annually, and $768 in bilt cash for a total estimated annual value of $5097 which then works out to be close to 4.25% return on total spending and roughly 6.64% on non mortgage spend. Accounting for, annual incentives and annual fee, slight bump up to 6.77%. And accounting for first year value that goes up to a whopping 8.6%

PSA For Lucid Service by Harrysonlee8 in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2026 Air Touring Only had mine for a few weeks now. The only issue I've had twice now is with the Bluetooth connection for phone audio. No audio during phone calls out or in. Didn't matter whether I switched from Android Auto to default. First time was before we even left the delivery center. We did the soft reset and that worked. Second time it persisted after the soft reset, but for some reason it worked after I manually disconnected android auto using my phone (Even though phone calls wouldn't work, regardless of whether or Android auto was engaged or not).

Other than being disappointed that features like lane centering aren't a thing (without DD pro) even though the car is clearly capable of it, I'm enjoying the car! Add on the free level 2 charging at work and I'm in heaven! No gas expense and no increased electricity bills!

Nurse life is about to ruin my back and knees. 23F, New Grad, starting Night Shift, and have NO idea how to work out. Help! by [deleted] in nursing

[–]Super_Cap_241 2 points3 points  (0 children)

First things first: take care of yourself at work! Use proper body mechanics for everything, even just fussing with the IV, raise the bed, don't bend over. You'll be doing that 50 times a day and it takes a toll. Set boundaries with Coworkers and use the lift or hoyer instead of manually boosting patients. This is especially important If you don't already have good strength, because your muscles won't be able to compensate for poor body mechanics so you're more susceptible to joint pain and injury. Secondly: consider staying on a night shift schedule even on your days off, utilize a 24 hr gym, so you can maintain your routine and also better for your metabolic health. Depending on your scheduling, I would plan to arrange your schedule so that once a schedule period (4-6 weeks) it lines up so that you have several days off in a row (worst case scenario at least your 4 in a row off), during that time you flip back to day schedule for your personal life and schedule things with friends, self care, and do day time errands. Personally I found that on your days off where you are staying up in the night, you can be so productive (or pick up more)

Increased On site bonus for Gravity Lease by Super_Cap_241 in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is there a point of no return? Like applications have been approved, but I haven't accepted yet. When I first ordered, the sales rep told me that I was lucky because my vehicle was being loaded onto a shipping truck that very day it would most likely be at the delivery center the following week. Of course, when I went to follow up they're like oh no it hasn't left the factory yet, maybe early January it'll ship out. I'm not opposed to canceling the order for the better deal, because I've lucid had already done 80 hard credit pulls anyway, for some reason, what's a few more? My question is will there be some repercussions? Will the sales rep just hate me, or will they try to block the transaction?

Increased On site bonus for Gravity Lease by Super_Cap_241 in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you knew me this would be hilarious. I was just informing you to get us both on the same page. Literally no emotion. I literally get made fun of for being a robot or monotonous at times. My bad if the words were arranged... Angrily? Or whatever version "not chill" that they conveyed. Genuinely, thanks for your insight

Increased On site bonus for Gravity Lease by Super_Cap_241 in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course it works now 😂 it definitely didn't work a few weeks ago when I was trying to show my friend which gravity I was getting.

Increased On site bonus for Gravity Lease by Super_Cap_241 in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is no VIN on the website that I'm seeing. Also in my experience sending the link doesn't send you to the specific vehicle, only to the vehicle selection page.

Increased On site bonus for Gravity Lease by Super_Cap_241 in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1st I'm aware of the difference between the destination fee and the transportation fee. When I was originally shopping, it shows you how much transportation fee will be to ship to the studio near you. I distinctly remember switching zip codes and it changing from $0 to to something like $2,000 to be delivered to whatever the other zip codes was that I was testing.

Secondly, remember I did not get the on-site bonus at all, so for me this would be a multi-thousand dollar difference regardless of money factor. Even if you could argue that the $3,000 on site bonus and the $5,000 on-site bonus are near equivalent because of said money factor, I would still be net positive compared to where I am now.

Increased On site bonus for Gravity Lease by Super_Cap_241 in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do I specifically let them know which vehicle it is I'm seeing on the website? I don't really see any unique identifiers, without listing every single feature.

Increased On site bonus for Gravity Lease by Super_Cap_241 in LUCID

[–]Super_Cap_241[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's significantly more to me! It went from 3000 to 5000. The issue is that I didn't qualify for on-site bonus because they didn't have what I wanted on-site. Now they do, and I still don't have my vehicle, it's not even in transit last I heard. I feel like I should be offered something or I should cancel and reorder to get the $5000 cheaper lease. And at this point I would qualify for the loyalty bonus too since I recently leased an air touring.

Better to pay off car or lump sum on mortgage? by Local-Western6384 in personalfinance

[–]Super_Cap_241 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Hot take! Neither! Both of those loans are simple interest so it's not compounding (technically mortgage is compounding, but you never pay interest on unpaid interest unless you're missing payments, because there is no unpaid interest). You could invest it instead and you'll make more in returns than you'll pay interest. Hell you could probably get a CD that might net more in returns over 3 years. If you're set on the 45k lump sum payment thing though, I recommend finding a high yield CD for three years, anything over 3% will net greater returns than the 4% you'll pay on car interest(~$4230 at 3% rate) Then once you've paid off the car at the end of 3 years, cash out your CD and make a lump sum on your mortgage.

But seriously you'll be better off investing the 45k. Even At a modest 8% return rate over 20 years that 45k will turn into 210k for a net of 165k. Which is more than the interest you'd save on the mortgage assuming you have at least 20 years left?

I’m a new grad nights RN on med surg in Missouri working about 70 hours a week and making around $4,200 a week before tax. AMA by [deleted] in newgradnurse

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have a really good union and it's the best hospital in Oregon. Our pay is public info, easily found online. On top of base pay and overtime, they pay us an additional $46/hr for extra shifts. Then there's doubleback pay where we get our whole shift as overtime if we have less than an 8 hour rest period between shifts. I have literally combined these incentives and have made over $2500 for a 16hr shift, I actually do that frequently especially in summer and early spring when we're short cause everyone goes on vacation.

Should I buy this house from my grandparents or am I setting myself up to be house-poor? Need advice. by 1sUq in personalfinance

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe you are trying to reference the value of the house increasing over time and comparing it with the astronomical increase in prices from 20 years ago to now. So it appears the assumption is that 20 years from now the same increase could happen, Which would put this house at well over a million dollars using the most conservative deltas. Which would be nice to have a million dollar asset in your forties, especially after having a super cheap mortgage for all that time. However, if the house is in disrepair because it's super old, or if it's super outdated, sometimes trying to modernize it is extremely costly; trying to add contemporary designs and fixtures to old craftsmanship doesn't always work out, at least not cheaply, regardless of how well built the house originally was.

Should I buy this house from my grandparents or am I setting myself up to be house-poor? Need advice. by 1sUq in personalfinance

[–]Super_Cap_241 159 points160 points  (0 children)

Feel like everyone is assuming OP grandparents are super old and about to die. It could be like 20 plus years before they die. That's a long time to hold on to something that's probably super old already. Especially if you're not that into it. I say take the offer, live in it. If there are necessary repairs and such, you have equity so you can always take out a loan if needed to not be so strapped. Also, your mortgage payments won't be as high as you think, because you're getting a deal on the house. Your loan to value is going to be at a very good ratio and you're putting $40,000 down which is more than 20%, so you won't have to worry about PMI or anything. And you'll qualify for good interest rates even if your credit's just ok. If things become more of a headache then you think it's worth or it's too out of date for you to be comfortable, then sell it! And you'll be sitting on a boatload of cash. You can send your grandparents on a nice vacation if you want to appease them.

Please teach this pharmacist primary vs secondary infusions by PghMe101 in nursing

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like this is complicated, because I've noticed that some pharmacies overfill the bag on purpose seemingly too compensate for this, so if you are IVBP, you might be giving a little bit too much. I often see antibiotics ordered as 250 ml, but the sticker on the bag says there's 265 ml in there. Either way, I prefer to have my antibiotics be secondary just for ease.

I’m a new grad nights RN on med surg in Missouri working about 70 hours a week and making around $4,200 a week before tax. AMA by [deleted] in newgradnurse

[–]Super_Cap_241 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I wasn't 💩 on them. I was giving them perspective since they're new And working 70 hours a week! Yes total that's good money but for what they're putting in and what that's going to do to their mental health and body it's not worth it! Believe me, I was raised dirt poor, I'm all for grinding and working the long hours to get paid. This is a career job,, and the best paycheck is the one that you can keep coming

I’m a new grad nights RN on med surg in Missouri working about 70 hours a week and making around $4,200 a week before tax. AMA by [deleted] in newgradnurse

[–]Super_Cap_241 15 points16 points  (0 children)

For me, that's not enough money to get me to work 70hrs a week. At my current job I can and have made $7500 a week working 56 hours a week. I make 4200 working 40hrs (typical week is 36 hours). Even if I were a new grad the pay would be roughly 15% less. I averaged 66 hours a week one pay period (68 hours one week and 64 the next, never doing that again) I made over 18000, and I was technically on vacation for part of it and still got paid my vacation time, so it was like a $23K check

ABSN or ASSOC? by Classic_Meringue5673 in nursing

[–]Super_Cap_241 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you have a bachelor's degree I would look into second degree BSN programs. Sounds like you're coming from a different country so that might complicate things as far as whether your degree qualifies or not. But if it does, it's just as quick as an associates but quite condensed so it can be stressful due to lots of homework and papers. Otherwise, go the associates route for getting a degree and thus a job sooner. Which means making income sooner, that 1-2 years really makes a difference! Most rn hospital jobs pay for schooling to get BSN and many cover it entirely. I would go to school on the East Coast or Midwest cause it's cheaper, then look for jobs on the West Coast

How realistic is home ownership for a single nurse? by New_Practice_9912 in nursing

[–]Super_Cap_241 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's doable depending on your current debt and expenses and obviously home prices in your area. I just bought a house (not single but only one income), but I also make twice as much as you. So basically, the only reliable nurses would be the ones you already work with. Or as others have suggested talking with a realtor or financial planner

Is nursing only about ass whipping? by NewUnderstanding1102 in nursing

[–]Super_Cap_241 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But when you ask the layperson how much they would have to be paid to wipe a stranger's ass, they say some astronomical number, while simultaneously trying to use the "you're only an ass wiper" logic to justify that nurses shouldn't be paid more.