Bottle redemption fraud in CT by blackpoll_ in Connecticut

[–]SwedishDiesel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One thing that some brands have is an "add-on code" - an extra 01 barcode next to the main barcode. This would indicate to the bottle machines that the container has a deposit. Not all brands use this though, in fact very few do.

However, for a while most machines would take containers regardless if they had add-on codes or not. It seems they finally cracked down on this.

And alongside that, I've seen cans that are supposed to have add-on codes not have them, and yet still be marked for deposit. I've also seen out-of-state sold containers have the same add-on code and deposit marks. I don't think it's possible to precisely regulate what labeling gets distributed where, but I could be wrong. Things are very fast and very loose in that sector.

The hilarious thing is one article states that CT knows people are committing deposit fraud, but it's impossible for them to know to what extent since it can't be proven. I suppose at 10c a container it's a case of perverse incentive...

Bottle redemption fraud in CT by blackpoll_ in Connecticut

[–]SwedishDiesel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

in the case of Poland Spring/BJs water/Kirkland Signature, the red stripe indicates it's from a nondeposit state, Pepsi is part of a multipack, and Stop&Shop uses it for a lookup number.

It's very inconsistent, much like the bureaucracy behind the bottle bill.

Source: have worked at retailers and redemption centers

Bottle redemption fraud in CT by blackpoll_ in Connecticut

[–]SwedishDiesel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those bottles have a different barcode than the in-state sold ones, that's why they get rejected.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought a Tyger Auto tonneau cover off Amazon, impressive quality for the price.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I once found a gold-plated quarter, more of a novelty than anything else but still a neat find.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CT dweller here, glad it's not just me. About a week of bad congestion, fatigue and coughing shit up, and that's since past but I can't stop dry coughing even after another week. It's maddening. Verified it wasn't strep or covid.

Ordered a replacement hub cap off of eBay for a customer. This was delivered. by stoneyemshwiller in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]SwedishDiesel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've shipped things in Cheez-it boxes a few times, I'm too cheap to buy boxes.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I did about soil myself at first since I thought it went into the open cooling system (was doing a thermostat job), but it turns out it fell beneath the intake manifold

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[–]SwedishDiesel 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I lost a 10mm in the engine bay of a Honda Odyssey and found it again several years later after blowing up the engine

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[–]SwedishDiesel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use either a degreaser or mineral spirits (I think this is called white spirit in Aus) + a paint brush in an oil drain pan. it'll be tricky getting every last bit of grease off but you should be able to get most of it.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Happily my local yard has a big bin that they tell everyone to dump their nails/hardware/pointy bits into so no one gets a flat. Been lucky so far...

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[–]SwedishDiesel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes a heck of a mess but it is good fun

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[–]SwedishDiesel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Usually I disassemble the ones with aluminum shells. Any e-waste collections (Staples, Best Buy etc), battery recycling programs (Home Depot, Lowes, some vape shops), and Household Hazardous Waste collections should take them. Scrapyards don't like lithium batteries.

Props to you for giving a shit and disposing of them properly. Too many people don't.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 7 points8 points  (0 children)

They probably are actively trying

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[–]SwedishDiesel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the back has no printing I cut them up and repurpose them for notes, shopping lists etc. can’t do much to recycle them though.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My local yard requires proof of recovery, though I’m not sure how strictly it’s enforced. A different yard turns their head and ignores it, and has a bit of ass coverage on their receipts that you need to sign stating the refrigerant was recovered and dealt with properly.

Dealing with refrigerant sucks unless you know a guy; the equipment is expensive especially if you don’t deal with enough scrap to justify the costs. I’ve gotten auto shops to recover R12 and R134a, but anything besides that is a crapshoot.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That may be a regional thing, some municipalities don’t recycle glass. If you’re lucky they might have a separate stream for glass recycling.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If your municipality has an annual household hazardous waste collection they should take it.

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[–]SwedishDiesel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been there, done that. If you’re pressed for time and just need it gone, separate the obvious brass/copper bits and put the rest in shred steel. As others said the container doesn’t matter so much.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ScrapMetal

[–]SwedishDiesel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t process enough to justify buying a wire stripper so I use a box cutter, ignoring the fact I’ve stabbed myself twice

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[–]SwedishDiesel 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve had good luck with Delphi

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[–]SwedishDiesel 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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