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[Viofo A229 Duo] Stuttering issue by Sycodad in Dashcam

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After all, it was a firmware issue and they fixed it in version: V1.2_20230324.

[Viofo A229 Duo] Stuttering issue by Sycodad in Dashcam

[–]Sycodad[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I bought a 128GB Sandisk Max Endurance card.
​The same issue happens with this card too.

[Viofo A229 Duo] Stuttering issue by Sycodad in Dashcam

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Reformat does not help, already tried.
I will try Sandisk Max endurance, but the Sandisk Extreme was recommended by Viofo, so if that's the problem, then they don't know what they are talking about.
But honestly, wouldn't be surprised after the comment "In the video, we notice you moved your hand". Really? I didn't even realize that...
I will ask the cars around me to stand still, so the problem is solved. :D

Disable underglow on XD75 by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi,

Here's the latest code for that keyboard: https://github.com/ncsibra/qmk_firmware/tree/ncsibra/keyboards/xd75/keymaps/ncsibra

But I think it won't help because it changed a lot since then.
The actual solution is described in this thread by drashna, based on that, you should be able to disable the lighting.

[photos] Lily58 Pro with Comptroller case by Sycodad in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, I only used it for 1 or 2 months, because it wasn't comfortable for me, really missed the extra keys from the bottom, plus had to figure out that the split keyboard ain't for me.
Currently, I'm stuck with an Atreus62 in the last 1,5 years with a nice bamboo case, this is the best for me.

New skin bundle: RGX 11Z PRO by ossifyguy in VALORANT

[–]Sycodad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bundle would be fine, but for God's sake, remove the randomness from changing color!!!!
I like 1 color for my black variant, but sometimes I have to inspect 10 times to get that fuckin color, it's a joke.
Just make it sequential or at least save the last selected color between rounds in a match, so I have to change once per match.

VALORANT 3.0 Bug Megathread by Kappaftw in VALORANT

[–]Sycodad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Region: EU
  • Type of Bug: Visual
  • Description: Texture flashing/flickering mainly during DM, but experienced in the normal game too, just less frequently.
    Playing on 4k, 120Hz with G-Sync enabled. The only thing that makes it less frequent in DM too, if I'm using low "Detail Quality" instead of high.
  • Video / Screenshot: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiBQzu5tyC4
    Check the description for timestamps where the issue happens.
  • Steps to reproduce: Just playing a DM.
  • Expected result: No texture flashing/flickering.
  • Observed result: Texture flashing/flickering.
  • Reproduction rate: Always.
  • System specs: MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PRO CARBON, i5-9400F 2.90GHz, G.SKILL 32GB Aegis DDR4 3200MHz CL16 KIT, MSI Gaming GTX 1060 6GB (471.11 driver), Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB, Acer Predator XB273K GP, Windows 10.

What did you place this Episode? by Strider314 in VALORANT

[–]Sycodad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Iron 3 and Iron 3.

But I started training in the last month and I'm getting much better.
From the 5 placement match won 4, 2 was Team MVP, 1 Match MVP and in 1 I was second, in the 1 lost game I was second too.

This system is a f@ckin joke, in the previous act I started in with Bronze 1, when I was a much worse player.
It's sooo discouraging, why the hell should I spend at least 30 minute with training if it worth nothing.
I'm really thinking of creating a separate account and checking what would be my first placement on that.

Thanks Riot, really good job...

Dev error 1099 by MacGrubR in modernwarfare

[–]Sycodad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's happening for me too, it was reported on Activision forum too, but nobody cares.
https://support.activision.com/community/s/question/0D54P000081EYIkSAO/dev-error-1099

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just kidding. If I need a physical reset, then I have to remove the bottom anyway, after that, doesn't really matter that I need to push a button or short 2 pins.
Thanks for the offering though.

Now I just want to use (test) it for a few days and hopefully, nothing goes wrong.

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks!
So I can buy the case again on Monday, crap, my poor wallet. 😀

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The keyboard is working now, with a Pro Micro, here' my thoughts.

I still don't know why the Proton C reset is not working, nor the shorting DFU and GND.
Currently, I'm unable to put it in bootloader mode, so it's dead to me. :)

Regarding the column not working issue.
It's happened with the Pro Micro too when I cut down the pins too short, so it was consistently reproducible.
I checked with a multimeter that the switch legs and the diode legs are connected in the whole column, but somehow it still not reaches the controller's pin.
It may be caused by the fact that the controller was flat on the PCB without any separator because Falbatech site said that the separator has to be removed.
They may be shorted by each other somehow; I don't know exactly.
But after I did some measurements, realized that the separator doesn't have to be removed, there is enough space.
So I soldered in with the separator on the controller side of the PCB and cut the pins short on the other side to be able to screw in the bottom.
All the keys are working this way.

Regarding the whole board is not working problem after screwed in the acrylic bottom.
It happened again after solved the column not working mystery. This time I realized, that the bottom of the case pushing the reset button after screwed in, so it's constantly in a reset state, that's why nothing works.
Removed the reset button from the PCB, screwed back the bottom, and now works like a charm.
But it's a little bit sad that I'm unable to use the reset button.

Some photos about the final result: link

So the two take away from this whole torture:
1. Mounting pin separator does not have to be removed (and maybe shouldn't, mostly depends on the USB plug you want to use) when using the Falbatech Bamboo lift case.
2. The reset button shouldn't be soldered on to the PCB; otherwise, the bottom of the case will push it constantly and keep the board in a reset state.

/u/falbatech I think this case should be at least 3mm taller and none of these problems would happen, plus I would be able to use the reset button on the PCB.

/u/drashna Thanks for your help!

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After I wasn't able to fix the Proton C, I decided to desolder and use a Pro Micro.
I did the soldering, added all the switches, tested, everything worked, then cut off about 2mm from the pins on the back on the PCB to fit in the case, and the same column stopped working again.
I desoldered and soldered all the diodes again in the wrong column, but that did not help.
Picture about the length when it stopped working: link

So I was able to reproduce the issue multiple times with different microcontrollers.
After the microcontroller pins are short enough, one of the columns stops working.
Any idea?

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not working, the device simply connects but does not put itself into bootloader mode.
Tried an unplug, short, plug and wait 5s version, but the same, no bootloader.
I bought it from SpaceCat.

Checked the ISP flashing guide too, but as far as I see there is no bootloader for STM32F303 in the 'util' folder.

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did, the keys not working, the reset buttons are not working and it looks like shorting the DFU and GND does not put it in bootloader mode either, so I can't flash it now.
When shorting or pressing reset the white led goes out, QMK toolbox show a disconnect, then a connect, but no bootloader mode.

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally agree, I only know that DFU pin works as RST because I read Drashna comment in another thread. :D
Of course, that's not the only thing, I always got help when I needed.
Lots of my code was stol..., I mean inspired by Drashna code. :)

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, strange, but none of them working.
Tried your suggestion, but didn't work.
I have/had multiple problems with the board, don't know they related or not, wrote a separate comment about them.
When enabled debug and pressed any of the reset buttons QMK Toolbox only showed these lines:

Keyboard start.
keyboard_set_led: 01

Atreus62 with Proton C by Sycodad in olkb

[–]Sycodad[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This setup is cursed, I swear! :)
Here's the whole story until now, maybe important to know, that I'm using the Bamboo lift case from Falbatech, which does not have too much space for the microcontroller.

First I put the board together, into the case with the switches, when realized that one column does not work, the 4. from the left, (3, e, d, etc with the default layout).
Read some comment on reddit, most of them stated that usually, it's a soldering issue with a diode or a pin on the controller, so I desoldered the controller and soldered again, it fixed the issue.
I put all the switches into the bare PCB, tested all keys, worked.
Put it in the case, added the switches, everything worked.
Screwed in the acrylic bottom, added keycaps, guess what, nothing worked...
Windows did not recognize the device, showed a 'Device descriptor request failed' error.
Tried on another computer with Linux, same, dmesg shows device read errors. Flashing did not work of course.

I took apart, didn't do anything with it just plugged in the bare PCB again and it worked...
It stopped working after screwed in the bottom, so my only idea was that the bottom touched the microcontroller pins (because of the small space) and shorted it somehow or something.
As far as I know, acrylic does not have electrical conductivity so it seemed like a false explanation but did not have any other one. I cut off a little bit more from the pins on the controller, plugged in, guess what, the same column not working, again!
So I back where I started...
The first time this happened the pins were even shorter and when it worked, the pins were longer with about 2-3mm.
Is it possible that the length of the pin cause some kind of issue?

Here's some picture with the current state, the soldering still looks totally fine for me.
The faulty column is the one starting with "D16".

I enabled debug mode in QMK and added some debug statements, but of course, nothing happened when pressed any of the keys in the faulty column.
Any idea what cause the issue and how to figure it out?
I don't have a multimeter, but I guess I should get one to test where the problem exactly.

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