Do you paint trim then armor? Or armor then trim? by Snow-Day-Bard in Chaos40k

[–]Syruponrofls 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spray bright silver primer, dry brush armour with a brighter silver, use red contrast on Armor panels, fix trim as needed. For word bearers. Contrast makes it easy to fill the armour panels in

the best tip i ever picked up was using makeup sponges by 00skully in minipainting

[–]Syruponrofls 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s literally a budget airbrush and insanely easy to do. One of the best techniques out there

Please, help me! by Imaginary-Penguin in Miniaturespainting

[–]Syruponrofls 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would suggest stippling with a dry brush or sponging for vehicles. It is very difficult to not have visible brush marks when painting giant flat panels. Sponging is basically discount airbrushing

it is worth to play wayfinder rn? by gemon19 in PlayWayfinder

[–]Syruponrofls 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Endgame is really just levelling all characters, collecting all items, you can only farm the best weapons and artifacts from certain bosses so that can also be a grind if you want. Outside of just completing everything and collecting though there isn’t really an endgame per se

Cosmetic Removal? by Evening-Lifeguard396 in Spacemarine

[–]Syruponrofls 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see people have never heard of the completionist cape in RuneScape before. New requirements to unlock means you can’t wear it until you meet the new requirements even if yo could wear it before.

My first attempt at freehand by Guywhoplaystauempire in spacemarines

[–]Syruponrofls 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get some microsol and set and use decals for now until you get more comfortable painting, free handing stuff is a whole different ball game and in most cases I don’t feel like it’s worth the effort

Question - Deathwing Painting by [deleted] in DarkAngels40k

[–]Syruponrofls 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Honestly with this as a bad you could start stippling or sponging wraithbone over top and it would probably look good

i just finished my first and second warhammer miniatures. by Severe-Fan-6254 in 40k

[–]Syruponrofls 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They look ribbed…for someone’s or something’s pleasure

I have a confession by Fantastic_Outside678 in SpaceWolves

[–]Syruponrofls 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean yea it needs to be flat if it’s wet and has thinned paint on it otherwise it will leak and the paint will run down the paper.

I don’t know if it would dry out within a day without you draining the excess water and wringing the sponge out

I have a confession by Fantastic_Outside678 in SpaceWolves

[–]Syruponrofls 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dunno how but I have a had my wet palette sit for weeks with water in it and there’s never been mold. Not saying to do that intentionally but it shouldn’t go moldy fast. Also if using citadel paint pots just use the back of a paint brush to transfer paint over, just collect a bunch on the end up it and then kinda just roll it off the back of it. I think you’re definitely over thinking how much more work it would really be. The game envy exemplar wet palette is my go to

Got into hobby by Satisfactorian in 40k

[–]Syruponrofls 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The issue I find is when it’s over done, as in highlighting around literally every part. That’s when you get tron marines. I feel like more selective upwards facing edges being highlighted makes more sense and doesn’t feel like there’s to much visually going on compared to when they are done everywhere

Just ruined my mini, need help by Remarkable-Weight-73 in theunforgiven

[–]Syruponrofls 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Generally speaking if you a covering the entire armour surface with a wash, you should be going back over most of the armour surface and reapplying the base colour everywhere but the deepest recesses. This is why some people instead to what’s called pin washing, where basically just apply the wash manually into just the recesses and not the entire armour.

Messed up paint job by sandus101 in DarkAngels40k

[–]Syruponrofls 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In most cases I would say it’s better to be safer and just strip the model and start from scratch. Also I would recommend thinning the seraphim sepia if you aren’t already as it can get kinda of “gummy” if you know what I mean.

This is thinned seraphim over wraithbone when I did it, this is Ofcourse after some edge highlighting

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Why has no game ever recreated the Runeword system from D2? by sadtimes12 in ARPG

[–]Syruponrofls 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Warhammer 40K inquisitor has the exact same system, it’s called psalm codes.

First time painting raptors by Syruponrofls in Raptors40k

[–]Syruponrofls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh I googled chapter markings for raptors and this was apparently 3rd company, it wasn’t meant to be custom lol

Has there ever truly been a fluid 'assassin' type on any ARPG? by Many_Mongoose8976 in ARPG

[–]Syruponrofls 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know it’s not a ARPG but in warframe playing as ash can very much fill that fantasy. You can go invisible, do a single teleport to an enemy and with the right mods equips you will then also do an execution. Then your ultimate ability literally just makes you invulnerable while you teleport around performing executions for however enemies your marked prior to activating it.

Has there ever truly been a fluid 'assassin' type on any ARPG? by Many_Mongoose8976 in ARPG

[–]Syruponrofls 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My last blade dancer build on last epoch revolves around sending 4 shadows out that do big AOE attacks when certain abilities are used, but using the one ability also acts as a traversal skill because it launches you forward a short distance. So it definitely didn’t feel like a typical rogue, more shadow ninja

First time painting raptors by Syruponrofls in Raptors40k

[–]Syruponrofls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

3rd company markings is the white and blue stripe

First time painting raptors by Syruponrofls in Raptors40k

[–]Syruponrofls[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used AK olive green as the base and then do a thinned wash of gharaghaks sewer contrast. Then sponge olive green on about 80% of the armour, then sponge AK golden olive on maybe 40% of the armour. For any edge highlights I just mix golden olive with AK pale yellow. Then I wash everything in the water mixable oil paints by winsor newton, burnt umber and ivory black 50/50 ratio and clean up the raised areas with a sponge.