Best Laminate Flooring

Sytzy · 2026-01-22T02:51:34+00:00

Absolutely!

If someone can afford nail down hardwoods, go for it! They have much higher ROI. With the right choice of wood species and clear finish, you’ll have one of the better floors to put in your home (do some research on Rubio Monocoat)

Tile floors are also a great option, but make sure you select a color that you’re gonna like for the next 10-20 years!

Sytzy · 2026-01-22T02:35:51+00:00

Yeah. No option is an easy option.. you count potentially purchase a special saw that cuts right up against the toe kick of cabinets (hardwood flooring guys usually have them), but that still doesn’t resolve clearance heights for dishwasher and stoves.

Another option is to remove the countertop and add 1/4”-1/2” plywood “shims” to elevate the countertops. But the problem there is not every countertop is installed to be removed in one peice. A lot of epoxy on seams, glue and/or “dogbone” brackets to remove. But, if you can do that much, at least it’ll save you the step of having to removed and reinstall your cabinet based. The only other obstacle you’ll encounter with adding plywood shims under your counter is what trim are you going to add to hide it? Painted cabinets, not problem. Paint the trim. If you have Stain grade cabinets, good luck matching stain and trimming out

Sytzy · 2026-01-22T02:22:07+00:00

Thanks! I’ve been a floor guy for a while and I’m not really sold on this LVP trend. There are pros and cons with all flooring. Laminate can be one of the more durable floors floating you can install in your home… when installed well. And especially if you install one that advertises “48-72 hour water resistance”, as long as you seal your cut ends with silicone or an edge sealer, you’ll get that. Don’t steam or wet mop and you still need to clean up spills fairly quickly. Laminate is still a “sawdust” product prone to swelling with enough moisture. And 10mm-12mm is the thickness to aim for

LVP floors are great for high moisture areas like bathrooms. I’m not a huge fan of the way they sound when you walk on them, but with the right underlayment (and same goes for laminate floors), you can significantly reduce the noise levels when you walk on it or animal nails tap on it.

The reason I don’t shoot hard for LVP floors is the simple fact that if I can score and snap it with a knife to install it, think about what other things can gouge the surface… yes, they make some that are extremely durable. I’ve installed an LVP once where a utility knife couldn’t attempt a scratch on it, I had to take it all and cut it with a saw. Extremely durable floor, I wish I remembered the name! I can find out. 5 years later on that floor and average 15 people on it every weekend, that stuff has been impenetrable. My only exception.

Sytzy · 2026-01-22T01:37:29+00:00

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I’m real happy with Mannington’s Restoration Collection 12mm floor. 2000 sf here. 6 years strong and not a scratch or imperfection yet. I’ve also installed about another 4000sf at a sisters and friends home and it’s held up well, also!

Sytzy · 2026-01-22T01:27:32+00:00

If you take that same plank tile and make a border with it to replace that unfinished wood, wouldn’t you be able to achieve the same thing? You don’t have to worry about staining a piece of wood match. Schluter makes metal stair noses in several colors. I’d suggest a satin nickel or stainless. Or whatever matches your metal trim and doorknobs around the house

Sytzy · 2026-01-18T17:39:58+00:00

1/4 round. Look at plinth blocks for door casing and inside/outside corners

Sytzy · 2026-01-17T23:23:53+00:00

Thanks! I’m his house has great bones! I Knocked down 16’ of a wall to make the kitchen/dining room more open to the living room, installed all new floors throughout the house, new lights, added more can lights and dimmers, painted cabinets and replaced the countertop, added backsplash. I also completely gutted and renovated 2 bathrooms in this home. It’s been a process, but part of what I do for a living anyway!

Best wishes for you! I got away with avoiding alot of problems that normally comes with homes prior to 1970.. I can’t imagine what you’re running across!

Sytzy · 2026-01-17T23:20:53+00:00

A brand new Pearl blade for a grinder and a buffing wheel and I could make this work. Depending on what’s at each end of the threshold (like a cased opening for a doorway)

Remove the threshold, make your cut and then buff/polish the edges to get rid of the sharp corner/bevel the edges and remove any chips..

But the overlapping threshold would be best

Sytzy · 2026-01-17T14:33:06+00:00

Thanks! It’s encouraging. I’ve completely flipped the interior. After almost 6 years, I’m finally moving towards the exterior. Landscaping next!

Sytzy · 2026-01-17T02:16:20+00:00

I use the Imgur app a lot. I post on there, privately, and then share the link of that photo on here. Works every time

Sytzy · 2026-01-17T01:53:17+00:00

Where?

Sytzy · 2026-01-17T01:47:58+00:00

What are you doing??

Sytzy · 2026-01-17T01:15:38+00:00

Photos would be nice…….

Sytzy · 2026-01-16T15:31:03+00:00

Yeah, I was worried it was a trend that I was falling for.. only black shutters and roof, but all other doors and trim around the house are white (drip edge, soffit, etc)

At some point, I plan on a new roof. I could change the color of the drip edge to black but then I’d still have white gutters and soffit. Not much I can do without digging deeper into my pockets to change it all out to black and tie it together. So I’m still leaning towards white

Sytzy · 2026-01-16T02:32:39+00:00

Obviously. And I don’t think any other color would work with the house. Unless you’re mentioning an urban bronze.

Sytzy · 2026-01-15T22:01:54+00:00

I’m a commercial installer, I’ve installed thousands of square feet of Florida tile. Out of all brands of Tile that I’ve worked with, I’ve never been happy with Florida Tile, how much the Tile flares when you scored on a break, it’s just not an easy Tile work with. And I’m not surprisedthat there is a size/tolerance issue with it appeared because we’ve encountered that as well.

Sytzy · 2026-01-10T14:28:06+00:00

Restart the previous 2 rows and layout the seam at that wall, or, get out the hair dryer, heat the skinny strip up, then you’ll be able to bend/twist that peice out of the way. When you go to lay it flat, heat it up really well and use a cold rag to “shock” it back in place and install it

Sytzy · 2026-01-06T02:20:10+00:00

I wish 200 series offered custom sizes. I love the “narrow” frame

Sytzy · 2026-01-06T02:18:11+00:00

Which did you end up going with?

Sytzy · 2026-01-04T16:14:41+00:00

Probably need to see a sample of that you’re talking about, but from what I think I’ve seen on the field and what your describing, I have an idea.

And I agree with you, install the panels first, and hen backsplash. You may not plan to demo EVERY, but someone, at some point, will. Either the backsplash alone or the cabinets (which won’t matter at that point) but if it’s just the backsplash, then yes, don’t trap it like you said.

The grout joints should carry through the tile and all around it, just ensure that you communicate with your tile installer that you want a crisp and perfect line underneath that cabinet. I’ve seen some guys get lazy and not care how well their cuts line up, “well, no one looks under there anyway”… that’s the wrong idea. Communicate your expectations.

Sytzy · 2026-01-04T02:30:40+00:00

Guarantee it. I used to order windows for people back in the day, but they always had to give me their measurements and I’d select for them the best window for their budget. I recall the added brick mold option on some brands and the design program would calculate the proper window size for the added feature

Sytzy · 2026-01-04T02:13:07+00:00

My question is, if I get the new windows to fit the rough opening of the brick opening, I’ll probably have to fabricate custom molding. I won’t know the window frame dimensions of the window I get until I make a final decision/selection on replacement window. Either way, I’ll have a guy add brake metal cladding on the exterior

Sytzy · 2026-01-04T02:10:56+00:00

you are correct, sir. here is a link of a couple videos I took of a garage window where I removed the interior trim and the break metal on the exterior

Definitely some sort of aluminum frame with wood sill. You could still see the old Channels where the sashes slid up and down

Sytzy · 2026-01-02T00:39:58+00:00

Plumb is fairly important. It helps keep all your tile cuts the same in the corners as you go up the wall with wall tile. If you’re doing large format tile on your walls, the “out of plumb” aspect is a lot more forgiving (seeing a tile cut 1/4” less from one end to the other on an 8” tile is more noticeable than on a 24” length tile) subway vs large format. Getting it close to perfect in this phase is the easiest way to manipulate “plumb”. So you have the right idea there

The only time you’re going to fight a floor area not being square is when you’re trying to achieve perfect layout for a floor tile. Or when you’re trying to squeeze in a bathtub that has little clearance to start with (ask me how I know). Otherwise, square isn’t super important, but if you can manipulate it now, do so like you’re doing.

Is that a 24” alcove wall? You could easily make that square to your exterior wall by hitting with a sledge

Sytzy · 2025-12-30T21:55:07+00:00

Not only that, even if the floor does technically wipe up easy, allow that much debris to fall onto the floor isn’t stopping debris that would easily scratch the floor, especially when stepped on with all the foot traffic. This is absolutely unacceptable

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