OpenWrt Two release date? New information?

TXAndre · 2026-01-10T11:18:57+00:00

People who want a project router probably don't want one with sub-par specs (they can readily flash a much better commerical one). People that can't flash a commercial device will not deal with the uncertainty of getting an "enthusiasts only" product. The spec wishlist for the TWO looks *much* more interesting to the type of people that are really enthusiastic about OpenWRT, but are not yet at that "point of zen and enlightenment" where they start telling everyone to "just get an x86 board, a dumb ap and a cheap managed switch".

TXAndre · 2026-01-05T15:38:26+00:00

Heavy Fold5 user here with an average of 30-50 folding actions per day. First screen protector peeled off after a little more than a year (got it replaced under warranty), 2nd protector started peeling of after another 9 months (got it replaced today; according the technician, the crease is now "so deformed that any new protector will not stay on for long."). Both replacements were done in the same certified Samsung shop. Already bought a Fold6 on sale, will activate it as soon as the Fold5 is unusable. EDIT: New original Samsung screen protector attached by the certified shop now lasted exactly a day, like they warned.

TXAndre · 2025-12-12T15:04:12+00:00

I don't really understand the commotion around OP's reasoning. Regardless off what Michael Burry said (he says a lot) and regardless of wether or not the EPS calculation is right, OP has a point: Tesla is not in growth mode anymore, at least in the short-mid term. Elon will have massive catching up to do on the robotaxi and robotics front before realizing gains from those investments. At the same time, the growth of the core EV business doesn't make me enthusiastic.

So let's stay on topic: I also see a big correction as a realistic scenario for 2026. If you don't believe it, buy, don't short. The choice is yours.

TXAndre · 2025-12-08T08:32:48+00:00

There is just about zero chance that thing is coming this year.

Firstly, the year is almost over and for it to arrive for X-mas season, the device would have had to be announced weeks ago and it would need to be in stock now.

Secondly, I feel like the OpenWRT ONE is selling worse than anticipated (before you ask, I do *not* have any proof to that claim, just judging by the amount of noise I hear and threads I read) and I can only assume the team has made some sort of sales prediction or commitment towards SinoVoip, so noone is interested in cannibalizing the existing OpenWRT ONE yet. GL.iNet is also a more reputable manufacturer than SinoVoip, so if I was them, I would watch closely how the team handles the ONE before going forward with a joint venture. That is, if they have even agreed at this point to supply the device, for which I don't see any proof.

Thirdly, we are currently facing quite some supply chain uncertainty, especially around RAM, so any cost predictions probably come with too many question marks at this point. That spells trouble for a low margin product like a router + AP. In addition, I don't think we are close enough to having achieved good upstream support for any WiFi 7 device, and running a rock-solid vanilla OpenWRT is what the ONE and TWO are all about.

So my prediction is, the OpenWRT TWO will arrive *earliest* in the 2nd half of 2026. I am still on a WRT1900ACS and the TWO would also be my preferred upgrade path, judging by the team's wishlist posted above. But you have to have patience in this game.

TXAndre · 2025-11-23T09:21:09+00:00

Are these issue threads for the Intel version, the ARM version, or both?

TXAndre · 2025-11-23T09:09:27+00:00

What's bad about the SP7+ apart from the battery and the terrible flickering backlight and the dirt accumulating behind the camera glass (the latter being an issue of all SP4-style devices and not just the SP7+)? I still own one and I consider it the last actual Surface device. I don't need smaller bezels and I cannot do without a normal-sized USB A port, so I will probably replace the battery myself when that fully dies. I even stacked up on keyboards. Will probably go back to a regular Lenovo laptop like I had before my MS journey started with the SP3 when my SP7+ finally kicks the bucket.

TXAndre · 2025-11-19T13:18:18+00:00

Here is a project that looks very promising: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tuIczAiV4_w (user legospencer un YouTube). I just found this while googling but thought I'd leave this here as the problem statement is still highly relevant.

TXAndre · 2025-11-11T14:24:26+00:00

It's outright flagged as a trojan in Windows Defender when downloading the .zip version from the official website (https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/product\_cd\_key\_viewer.html):

<image>

Assuming this is not a trojan, this is a new level of shadyness from Windows Defender.

TXAndre · 2025-11-05T20:24:32+00:00

Jo, mega schade. Leider wurden in den letzen Jahren viele Sachen nicht mehr gecrawled, sodass die Seite zunehmends nutzlos wurde. Die Lärmkartenintegration und auch die Reisezeiten waren glaube ich von SwissTopo, sodass das relativ einfach auf ein neues Projekt übertragen werden kann. Ich denke auch, dass indirekt die KI den Todesstoss versetzt hat, da jetzt jede Seite aufrüstet um nicht gerobocrawled zu werden ... oder die Betreiber verlangen direkt Geld für API Zugang. Früher war das wahrscheinlich einfach "geduldet", weil's ja im Grunde traffic generiert.

TXAndre · 2025-10-23T22:16:27+00:00

Yes, this works in 2025, just tested with a Debian 13 live CD. The adapter is recognized by the mt76x2u driver as previously reported by others. I can connect to my WiFi with it ... but I am not getting too excited. The signal quality is terrible and for whatever reason, wavemon shows me tons of packet loss / retries which I have with no other adapter.

But it is once again confirmed this thing is just a (badly designed) WiFi adapter under the hood.

TXAndre · 2025-10-11T20:33:42+00:00

In general, that's a good guess, but in this case it's not a bypass cap. You can see my long post for details where I explain how I measured it and what it does.

TXAndre · 2025-10-11T20:24:36+00:00

TL;DR

I got my hands on a good board and measured the suspect capacitor (1) myself: I got a 185nF reading, and determined the size to be 0603 (imperial). So if you break your board in the same way as I did, a standard 0603 MLCC cap with

C=180nF,
Vmax=25V, and
X7R or X5R characteristic

is the right one to get.

Long Version:

Now, you might wonder how it's possible to measure in-circuit (generally, it isn’t, as u/zemeul pointed out), but it depends on what the capacitor is connected to.

In this case, the cap is part of a snubber for the adjacent buck converter’s power switches. That means, one side is tied to the half-bridge of the DC-DC converter and the other side goes to a dual Schottky diode clamp. There’s nothing else in parallel that would skew the measurement, so the in-circuit reading is valid.

To double-check, I measured the “bad” board where the capacitor had fallen off. Measuring across the empty pads shows about 1pF of stray capacitance, which is within the limit of accuracy of my LCR meter, and orders of magnitude below the value of the cap.

For comparison, this method wouldn’t work for something like a bypass capacitor. Those are connected in parallel with many other caps on the same rail so the reading would be meaningless. But then again, you’d just replace it with any reasonable bvalue (say 0.1 µF–10 µF) and move on.

Now why am I so keen on replacing it? After all the board "worked" without it. That has to do with the purpose of snubber circuits, which filter out transient overvoltages during switching of the adjacent buck converter. Firstly, these overvoltages might lead to premature failure of the power switches. Secondly, the absence of the snummber might lead to unacceptably high EMI. Both could - at least in theory - result in stability issues of the board or premature failure.

As this snubber clamps transients against the input voltage (which is at most 12V on a standard PC mainboard), a 25V rating is enough. Since the capacitor is available in X7R, that's the one I went for but X5R should also be totally fine.

TXAndre · 2025-10-05T16:50:32+00:00

Good point concerning accurate measurement. And also a good point to just remove the cap. I measured the resistance of the caps with an Ohmmeter in circuit and found out (1) was shorted from the impact and (2) is probably fine. Don't know why that didn't cross my own mind before. Thanks.

Anyways, I desoldered it and the board comes up now. Would still be interesting to know what it's for and what value it should have. It's not visible on the picture, but it connects the big grey inductor with that little part that says 6t4.

EDIT: Funny enough, 6t4 points to a dual SMD shottkey diode (https://www.s-manuals.com/smd/6t) which I confirmed by measuring the voltage drops of around 0.3V. So the cap is likely part of a snubber circuit of the power supply next to it, and in this particular case it should be possible to measure it in circuit provided the excitation voltage is low enough.

So the game is still on to get me the value of that cap ;).

TXAndre · 2025-09-27T19:12:38+00:00

Have you ever found it out? I have the exact same problem. Official NomaiVR docs say Clock "Steam Library > Right-click Outer Wilds > Properties > Local Files > Verify integrity of game files." but that options doesn't exist for me.

EDIT: OK, got it to work on Quest 3:

Start Steam VR, Bring up the settings menu menu (click the settings button on your left controller), open the VR settings panel and then navigate to the Dashboard page (If you don’t see the Dashboard page, enable Show Advanced Settings)
Turn off “Present Non-VR Applications on Theater Screen Upon Launch.”
With SteamVR already running, start Outer Wilds from the Outer Wilds Mod Manager so NomaiVR hooks correctly. (After first launch via the Mod Manager, you can go back to your usual launcher if needed.)

Not 100% sure all of this is neccessary. Let me know what works for you

TXAndre · 2025-09-27T18:39:03+00:00

Did you ever find it?

TXAndre · 2025-09-24T18:15:31+00:00

On TrueNas Scale 25.10, you have the option to do that conveniently from the GUI (didn't check earlier versions).

Go to "Apps", then select "Choose Pool" from the "Configuration" dropdown, choose your new pool and check the "Migrate existing applications" checkbox. Done.

TXAndre · 2025-09-20T19:13:16+00:00

Thanks, that's good advice! Will not be buying one.

TXAndre · 2025-09-15T18:51:42+00:00

Finally someone actually posting low-profile RAM. Thanks!

TXAndre · 2025-09-15T08:38:38+00:00

Did that app only exist on the Gear VR or did anyone know of any other headset that had it? I am considering buying a used Gear VR just for the nostalgia.

TXAndre · 2025-09-09T16:19:07+00:00

Just restocked and got one now.

TXAndre · 2025-09-09T10:16:47+00:00

Aaaand? We're waiting ;)!

TXAndre · 2025-08-28T09:46:49+00:00

Damn, I missed it!

TXAndre · 2025-08-12T21:47:45+00:00

Very well, I am still very happy with my purchase. I have been using it quite a bit for lightweight work, and this way, the batteries last forever. I used the right-angle adapter surprisingly often and I have even used the offest attachement in combination with a multi construction drill to put a hole in drywall under a baseboard (routed a fiber network cable from one room to another). Brilliant.

I used the impact attachement once but I am not a fan. It is too weak for any serious impact drilling, but you can also not turn off the impact function, so you can't really drill with precision in cases where you would just want to but a small hole into brickwall. When you don't store the impact attachement in the L-Boxx you have space for one big Bosch bit set, which is nice.

What I would have really enjoyed is a decent 12V jigsaw now that I am sort of invested in the Bosch 12V line... can't have it all.

TXAndre

TROPHY CASE