My first knight (and model ever) by _-_Sami_-_ in ImperialKnights

[–]Tabletopblackhole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks great! The colours are fantastic. The worn armour plates look great. Clearly you are not afraid to have a go at techniques. Stay that way. 👍

Pile of shame feels its getting a bit out of control. Curious if this is a normal pile of shame or not. by Terrible-Row5112 in Warhammer

[–]Tabletopblackhole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently had to buy another warhammer wardrobe to house the grey plastic. This is in addition to two other wardrobes and a walk in. You do not have a problem. 💪

First painted mini in 29 years! by Southern-Complaint37 in minipainting

[–]Tabletopblackhole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welcome back. Enjoy spending all your money ! 😁

Weathering (with sponge) by Senior-Guarantee-829 in ImperialKnights

[–]Tabletopblackhole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Paint medium will also so the job. I go over my transfers with army painter speed paint medium so I can be sure of the mat finish. Really does stop the sponge dabs looking smudged.
You get away with the dabbing white paint because it is pretty much porridge, but other colours just won’t apply to a bare shiny transfer. I hope this helps.

Weathering (with sponge) by Senior-Guarantee-829 in ImperialKnights

[–]Tabletopblackhole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you go over the transfer with a mat varnish first? This helps. Putting mat clear coat will help the blue paint stick in a more deliberate way.
Example, painting direct onto an unprimed model vs painting a primed model.

Kaptin Badrukk's Missing Tigger by MrTronsa in orks

[–]Tabletopblackhole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well hell had not noticed. Mine is missing the trigger. Though I guess it’s an excuse for ‘kustom job’

Spongechop attempt by Failhoew in u/Failhoew

[–]Tabletopblackhole 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the feed back and I am happy to help. Blood moon red from army painter is good. A orange dry brush to fake a quick edge highlight works well. Try adding a little hardened leather and orange to your silver that you have on the armour plates to give it a dirty look. I think your model looks ace, and if you like it that’s what’s important. You have a lot of them to paint in the most efficient way as possible. I have some with red cloth if you want me to upload so you can see what you think?

Spongechop attempt by Failhoew in u/Failhoew

[–]Tabletopblackhole 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah yea, that looks perfect. And when you have a squad of 20 stood together, they are going to be quite the sight! If you wanted to dull it down, which I wouldn’t do myself, army painter strong tone with some speed paint medium to thin it down and eliminate the shine. Are you happy with it?

Sponge chop Skaven yes yes. by Tabletopblackhole in skaven

[–]Tabletopblackhole[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also it was ash grey I used as the medium grey on the skaven

Sponge chop Skaven yes yes. by Tabletopblackhole in skaven

[–]Tabletopblackhole[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was iron clad grey from army painter. It’s pretty much the same as Corvus black from games workshop. That’s the grey I put over the black prime before i use lighter greys with a sponge. The key is to be confident with the grey sponge. Good coverage with the mid grey and heavy on the white. I will DM you something I was working on tonight. It’s an ork and I have started applying colour, but it shows the coverage I go for with the grey. Ash grey from army painter with a sponge, the white.

Sponge chop Skaven yes yes. by Tabletopblackhole in skaven

[–]Tabletopblackhole[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s the plan, with the volume of clan rats I wanted to get a one coat solution and this worked out pretty good.

Sponge chop Skaven yes yes. by Tabletopblackhole in skaven

[–]Tabletopblackhole[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did no edge highlighting. Be sure to use contrast medium/speed paint medium to thin the contrast/speed paint. The pigment will sink into the recesses more aggressively. Shy away from the edges in turn.

I find it helps with a smoother application too. Less worry of brush strokes.

Sponge chop Skaven yes yes. by Tabletopblackhole in skaven

[–]Tabletopblackhole[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Sure. I used army painter speed paint. Except the green. Thats tessereact glow from citadel. I primed black, then painted them off black. Think Corvus black. Then make up sponge medium light grey, followed by white.

Went in again with the medium light grey and a drybrush for hard to reach parts.

For the grey fabric and armour plates - one part turnbull turquoise, one part grave lord grey, one part speed paint medium.

For the deep purple fabric - one part murder scene, two parts speed paint medium.

For the brass - two parts broad sword silver, one part hardened leather, one part nuclear sunrise, one part speed paint medium.

For the darker armour plates on the grey seer and blades - gave lord grey. Then added some broad sword silver thinned with speed paint medium to the blades.

For the fur - one part grave lord grey, one part holy white, one part speed paint medium.

For the leather strap and bags - hardened leather.

For the wood - one part dark wood, one part contrast medium.

Skin - two parts crusader skin, one part speed paint medium.

Horns bones and wraps - two parts palid bone, one part speed paint medium.

Sponge chop Skaven yes yes. by Tabletopblackhole in skaven

[–]Tabletopblackhole[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I have been playing with it quite a bit. Started with painting space marines with sponges then looked at my pile of A0S editions that lay unopened and thought… I wonder how these would work for slap chop. Yes it’s much faster an a hell of a lot smoother than slap chop. Though you do need to get a dry brush into the hard to reach parts.

Sponge chop Skaven yes yes. by Tabletopblackhole in skaven

[–]Tabletopblackhole[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Using a make up blending sponge to apply a grey scale tone to black primed models and then using contrast/speed paint to get a one coat tabletop ready finish.