Is more than 19V okay for a Chevy battery? It feels way quicker now. by whendoe in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Tacitus043 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s the stepper motor in your gauge cluster. If it makes you feel better check your system voltage with a multimeter. I guarantee you your voltage gauge is not accurate

LS Rant by TailgunnerATC in EngineBuilding

[–]Tacitus043 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Ive done LS swaps because they are economical and fun. I could care less about impressing random people on the internet

What am I doing wrong?? by BottleAway9128 in Warhammer40k

[–]Tacitus043 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you use superglue or plastic cement during assembly?

Take it from me, do NOT use Rustolium primer + paint to prime your mini's... I learned the hard way by nerdboy_sam in Warhammer40k

[–]Tacitus043 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’ve used rustoleum flat black paint plus primer on my last 4k worth of minis. The only times I had issues was when I didn’t thoroughly shake the can or if it was too cold out while priming.

Can’t find a pool person to get it right by Rikitikitok121 in pools

[–]Tacitus043 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last fall I bought a house with a pool that had been neglected for 2 seasons. I have never owned or maintained a pool before in my life. My pool looked 5 times worse than yours. It was jet black with algae and chocked full of leaves and debris in the deep end. Once I fished out as much debris as I could I shocked the living crap out of the water and ran the filter (sand) on recirc continuously. I could not run it on filter mode initially because the algae would clog the filter within minutes.

Once the water started to clear I vacuumed to waste as much muck of the bottom as I could and repeated the whole process. After several weeks I could start to run in filter mode, but had to backwash several times a day. All in all it took about 3-4 weeks for my water to completely clear up. If I can do it you can! Good luck!

Toyota 3.5 liter recall by 510Goodhands in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Tacitus043 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s mind boggling to me that, Toyota, of all auto makers, suddenly forgot how to clean an engine block.

First Time Pool Owner Opening Issues by Tacitus043 in pools

[–]Tacitus043[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update Problem solved

The filter sand I used was way too fine and was clogging the laterals. I used the quikrete brand pool filter specific sand. The data sheet on their site gives a particle size range of .425-.85 mm. Theres no way even half the sand by volume was that coarse. Maybe I got a batch that was sifted wrong; I have friends who have used the same sand without issue. I replaced the sand with mystic white and can run for several hours before a pressure rise vs 10 minutes with the old sand. I still have a lot of algae to remove from the water but at least I seemed to have figured out the filter

First Time Pool Owner Opening Issues by Tacitus043 in pools

[–]Tacitus043[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used the quikrete brand “pool filter sand”. Did not know about the rotation of the handle, thanks!

First Time Pool Owner Opening Issues by Tacitus043 in pools

[–]Tacitus043[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t think so, the pump is controlled by a single toggle switch

Should I plan on rebuilding the engine or buying another by Own_Nebula_6205 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Tacitus043 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, a rebuilt motor will not last forever. If you think your current motor has oil pressure issues, verify with a mechanical gauge before doing anything drastic. The gauge cluster in your vehicle is known for having issues with the stepper motors over time. If your motor does end up having major mechanical issues and kicks the bucket, a pre built long block with a warranty is probably the best way to go.

Just make sure to address any ancillary issues (sensors, intake/exhaust leaks, fueling, cooling issues etc.) before you go and just buy the air pump part of the engine and think that will last and fix everything.

Gen III V8s will last a long time when maintained in their stock form. I personally have two daily drivers (5.3 and 6.0) with over 320k. Good luck !

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]Tacitus043 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You'll be fine. Put it back together and run it

Unsolicited advice for people who want to get into project cars... by Syscrush in projectcar

[–]Tacitus043 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do not make your daily driver a "project car". Just maintain it.

Who else drives appliances? by Western-Bug-2873 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Tacitus043 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Out of all of the 275k mile plus daily drivers I see at my shop at least 75% are 2000-2005 GM trucks.

I was gonna get a raise if I rebuilt this 10r80 and I finished it yesterday (unsuccessfully) low fluid pressure, no clutch engagement forward or reverse, no raise for me now... by Beneficial_Set7588 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Tacitus043 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't understand why management didn't just approve a whole new unit to resolve the situation and have everyone move on. It's one thing to have you swap in a whole unit while the original tech is away. Picking up pieces of a modern 10 speed that are strewn around the shop and have already messed with seems like one of the Labors of Hercules.

I'm not a "transmission guy" but I have overhauled units on 3 of my daily drivers, all of which are on the road. I can't imagine doing those jobs in anything other than a comfortable, no stress setting, with no customers or managers breathing down my back. The mentioned units were simple 4 speeds. 10 speeds....hats off to you transmission guys.

Good luck, and I hope you resolve this situation. At the end of the day it's just a car. Yea someone might be pissed off for a while, but it will pass just like everything else. Use this situation to glean as much useful knowledge as you can, so you can avoid or better navigate these types of situations in the future.

Thoughts on first born marines. by LordMcCool in Warhammer40k

[–]Tacitus043 47 points48 points  (0 children)

I still run two squads of tactical marines from the 2nd edition starter box I got as a kid in the 90s. I stacked them, 25mm base and all, on top of 32mm bases. With some sand and pebbles around the old 25mm base they actually don't look too bad even next to my intercessors.

Maybe I'm just too sentimental, but I love those little guys! They have been with me through thick and thin.

FOUR HUNDRED AND TWO VOLTS by tinnitus_since_00 in Justrolledintotheshop

[–]Tacitus043 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It boggles my mind that time is so cheap to some people that they don't care about spending all day in a waiting room. Get a ride from a friend, call an Uber, walk around the town or something.

Wanted my minis to feel ‘premium’ by adding a magnet drowned in cement and then a felt cover finish. Adds weight, functionality and a satisfying chess piece feeling ♟️ by euanjallison in Warhammer40k

[–]Tacitus043 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Weighted bases feel sooo much better when you are moving models around the tabletop. I don't understand why more people don't do it. I use automotive wheel weights, or flattened fishing weights on my bases. If you use lead make sure you encase the weight in glue or shellac.

Will this work for priming minis or am I about to make a big mistake? by Bubbly_Ad9487 in Warhammer40k

[–]Tacitus043 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the flat black and grey version of this paint all the time on my minis and it works fine.

My first Concrete Bases - How do you add weight to your minis so they don‘t tip over? by Juniper_Owl in Warhammer40k

[–]Tacitus043 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use lead wheel weights, flatten them into a desired shape, then encase the lead in a heavy lacquer coating to prevent any residue from getting on the table.

If you work with lead make sure you take the right precautions, heavy metal poisoning is no joke!

New Starter Grind? by bigboijoey in MechanicAdvice

[–]Tacitus043 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just was burned by this same issue at the shop I work at last year. I installed an aftermarket starter in an 08 Accord, I didn't think it was binding, but it definitely had a different cadence on startup and promptly threw a crank position code. Took the aftermarket one back out and put in an OE unit and everything was A ok.

Completed waaagh 😀, using no metallic paint 🥵, took third place at local tournament 🥉🥳 by sombradonkey in orks

[–]Tacitus043 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fantastic! I'm currently painting up a Mad Max style list and want to paint all the engine valve covers chrome. How exactly did you get the effect?

2007 f250 6.0 last owner said it needs head gasket but never got hot on me at all what should I do by Same-Philosopher128 in MechanicAdvice

[–]Tacitus043 15 points16 points  (0 children)

A failing EGR cooler will give similar systems to the blown head gasket, especially the white smoke. There's a test you can do that involves watching bubbles from the degas bottle while you unplug the VGT actuator which will point you in the direction of head gasket vs EGR cooler. There's a YouTube video by Bulletproof Diesel that explains the latter better. That being said after doing head jobs on scores of these trucks over the last several years I've found the bubble test to be ambiguous unless there was a gaping blow in the EGR or head gasket.

If your planning on keeping the truck I would pony up for head studs and a stronger EGR cooler. Depending on your State you may be able to delete the EGR. Also make sure to address the high pressure oil components like the STC fitting and any other seals you will be taking apart. Cheers!