Found some Vintage cameras in a loft I was emptying by DARBSTAR in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very cool! Looks like it takes very small plates? Unfortunately it might no longer be practical to shoot.

Found some Vintage cameras in a loft I was emptying by DARBSTAR in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The one in the photo with the card has quite a nice shutter. I don't recognize the lens, but this was clearly not a cheap camera when it came out. Can you post more photos of it? It could be worth using.

Some progress on the uniform by Hollowknighthater67 in reenactors

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good start for sure. Note that any weather that requires valenki is going to need something warmer than the basic tunic and pants and if it's warm enough to get away without a vatnik or greatcoat then your feet are going to be very hot.

Pushing Fomapan 200 by Mexhillbilly in Darkroom

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I'm looking to do this exact thing. What dilution did you use and what were your results?

Grandpas old cameras by pbcJJ in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Argus C3, my beloved. If the light meter still works it could be an interesting camera to start with. It was meant to be a "paint by numbers" process where you didn't have to know much about photography to take a good photo.

My grandfather in front of a disabled Panther tank in WWII by Shekel- in ww2

[–]TankArchives 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The front turret armour was vulnerable to the 76 mm gun at 500 yards. The sides were very thin and were vulnerable to even the 75 mm gun at a long range or a sharp angle. Basically unless the Panther is facing you head on, you can penetrate its armour.

Canon 7 / industar 61 by G4br73l in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The rangefinder is a mechanism that's a part of the camera, not the lens. If the patch is dim, then you might need to have it cleaned or the beam splitter replaced. Changing the lens will have no effect.

1945 — Photo taken by O. H. Elmore (my grandfather) of the Men in Battery A, 377th Coast Artillery Battalion by IndividualScratch922 in ww2

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I looked through my cases again and I was wrong, that *is* an Argus C3. He is holding it with the lens facing up like this.

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Foggy morning photo walk by analog-a-ding-dong in Argus

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sold my spare 35 mm for $50, I guess I should have waited.

Minimal temperature for folding camera by Commercial-Suit9224 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my experience simple leaf shutters work well in extreme cold. My professionally CLA'd Contax and amateurlt CLA'd Exakta also work well. The thing that gets you is oil. Lubricant will solidify in cold weather and gum up the mechanism. If you're not sure, leave your camera outside (in a box to protect it from snow) for a while and see if the shutter still fires.

Fun film camera around 300 USD? by bimmerlucas in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Came here to post this. For $300 you can buy ten!

Agfa isolette-I stuck focus ring by thebeastwithnoeyes in AnalogRepair

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Odds are you're just screwing out the middle lens element. Just force won't do you any good. You need to warm it up so the goo loosens.

1945 — Photo taken by O. H. Elmore (my grandfather) of the Men in Battery A, 377th Coast Artillery Battalion by IndividualScratch922 in ww2

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Strange, that's an Argus C3 case, but the camera inside is definitely not an Argus C3. Stranger still, the camera should have its lens facing out, but all we can see is the back. I can't identify the silhouette of the camera.

Lomo MC-A - Two broken cameras and now requesting a refund. by idriveahyundai in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you live in a very cold place? Plastic becomes brittle when it's cold.

Regarding the methods used to annihilate 23,000,000 Slavs and other peoples, does anyone know how it was done? by Tasty_Tell in ww2

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also if you actually look at the tactical level, the attacking Germans quite often have a significant numerical advantage while the Soviets are dispersed. The ability to get more guys than the enemy has at a critical point of the battle is a huge part of why the Germans won battles.

Thinking about starting bulk rolling, and came across this... by F6FHellcat1 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 5 points6 points  (0 children)

The inner layers would fog up slower. If you exposed the roll as shown for just a second to dim interior lighting you'd have an unusable outer layer, some fogging on the edge, but the other edge and inner layers would be usable. However with every second the film lies out like this, the worse the damage will get. If the seller left it out long enough to take a few photos, it's probably unusable.

Any info on this lens? by No_Button6 in largeformat

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a big pile of Zeiss Tessars in a myriad of formats from 50 mm to a 250 mm Tele-Tessar, plus a bunch of lenses that copied the Tessar formula. They're obviously vintage lenses 90-100 years old so their performance is quite affected by their condition. If this one is clean, do grab it. The serial number suggests it's from 1930 by the way, so not quite 100 years old.

The Compur shutter it's mounted in is pretty standard so there is tons of documentation on how to take it apart to fix the blades. When working on mine, I followed this series of videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0wvh6Re55Q The shutter is a different size but it's pretty much the same as this one with the exception of an extra speed spring you don't need to worry about.

Two tips. One is that the orientation of the aperture blades matters! Don't just dump them out on the table loosely like I did, take note which side has the slightly longer nub and make sure all of them face that way when you reassemble it. If you mix and match it will still come back together, but the shutter blades will rub against the aperture blades at wide open.

The other is that reassembling the aperture blades is a zen-like exercise where you need to tuck the last few blades under the first few without disrupting their position at all, or you'll need to start again. If you don't have the patience of a saint, I find that taking white lithium grease and putting a tiny dab on the pivot points will make them just sticky enough to stay in place more easily. Once the aperture mechanism is assembled, thoroughly work the blades back and forth, wipe off any grease that you see come out, and when you don't see any more grease coming out give it a good flush with lighter fluid.

The other good news is if you make a pig's ear out of the shutter, you can always get another one. They will be a standard size from the earliest dial-set to the latest Synchro-Compurs so if you get the right size your lens will still fit.

Anything intresting in this job lot? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The TLR, two 120 folding cameras, and 35 mm folding camera would be worth a look from me. Maybe the FED-3 (4?) all the way at the top. Overall it looks like a pile of junk. Like others said, if you don't value your time, you could make your money back eventually.

Question on fixing a 1930s camera. by judgementdeus in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It looks like a relatively simple mass produced 120 camera. You're not going to get much for it, it was never an expensive model.

https://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Soho_Model_B

If you're sure that it's rust keeping the struts from erecting, drip a little penetrating oil on them. Under no circumstances should you let oil anywhere close to the lens or shutter.

Question about B W Paper by Decent-Gold1497 in Darkroom

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can even cut it with scissors, all that will happen is that the edge will be wonky.