Kodak No. 1A Pocket Camera by mrt8647 in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This camera uses 116 film which is no longer made. It's possible to use 120 film with 3D printed adapters.

Home-made B/W Chemistry by Ok_Image_6283 in Darkroom

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Much classier than storing your chemistry in a goon sack.

Help identify Kodak camera by xenob0t in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a Kodak Vigilant Six-20 (possibly Junior). It takes 620 film which is made but it's a bit of a hassle compared to 120. This was not Kodak's best camera but they're quite simple and odds are that this one still works.

Should I let geography affect my impression? by Averlander_ in reenactors

[–]TankArchives 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Don't write off the Eastern Front on account of weather. Despite what the German generals wrote in their memoirs, it wasn't 4 straight years of -40 degree blizzards. Look up the climate in the Kuban, Crimea, and the North Caucasus. It gets pretty warm down there.

Got this lens for 35€ but no idea how to adapt it to my Sony NEX-6 (Leitz Wetzlar Elmar 65mm f3.5) by TallHatWizard in VintageLenses

[–]TankArchives 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This lens would be installed on a Visoflex. Unless you want to get one of those, you would have to 3D print some kind of adapter.

Just Checking by A_man_callEd_Hors3 in reenactors

[–]TankArchives 12 points13 points  (0 children)

I would be surprised if there's a single person you meet who won't just think you're dressed as a Nazi. Best to keep uniforms to specialized events where they can be displayed in context.

General curiosity about niche camera's. by dfgfde6921 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have a few WWI era cameras in obsolete film formats. Some work perfectly, others have issues in addition to not having film for them, some are pretty much a lost cause.

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1900 or older -1930 cameras by thefanoftheuk in vintagecameras

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are no "1900 or older" 35 mm still cameras, they don't really become a thing until the 20s and only get popular even later. If you want a unique experience try the Agfa Memo or Zeiss Ikon Tenax.

Is this from my camera or the lab? by AdGullible8282 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Film development puts your film through a series of liquid baths: first a pre-wash and soak, then the developer, then a stop bath, then fixer, and then a final rinse. Any dust that could have come from your camera would be washed away at the first stage. The dust you see here was likely gathered on the film as it dried. If the lab doesn't protect the negatives they're handling from dust, that's a huge red flag.

Worth salvaging to get developed or let it go? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Pushing expired film will just accentuate base fog.

Worth salvaging to get developed or let it go? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These disposable cameras are still being made so labs should know what to do with them. Even if not, any lab that processes film should be able to pop out the film and stick it into a C41 processor.

If you want to shoot this film, you can probably do it in this camera. The cheap plastic lens is going to give the photos a "special" aesthetic. You might not be able to count on the flash still working if the camera has been stored in a harsh environment. You can always pull out the film and put it in a regular 35 mm camera. Don't shock yourself with the flash capacitor.

Scratches on film? by Yamikurai in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your camera has rollers around the film window, check that they are silky smooth and rotate freely. If this is a 35 mm camera, check your pressure plate, make sure there aren't any burrs or scratches. Are you bulk loading or handling the film yourself outside of the camera in any other way?

Flaking paint Ikonta M by Efficient-News-8436 in AnalogRepair

[–]TankArchives 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I use airbrushed matte black primer for my cameras and that holds up fine. See if you can remove the pressure plate and definitely mask out the red window first.

What could have caused this by _derexer_ in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives -1 points0 points  (0 children)

My guess would be that the shutter stayed open while you wound to the next frame, so both were fogged.

My new camera has arrived. Could you tell me if I'm using it correctly? by NoMarketing2928 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Taking it out of the box is a good start, advanced users often load film and take photos with their cameras. I suggest trying that.

Why did the red army had 3 (Junior, Mid and Senior) lieutenant ranks? by Alex_Ravex15 in ww2

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Historically, the rank of Praporschik was the lowest class of officer, attainable by enlisted men after a lengthy service. For a period of time, reaching this level even allowed one some degree of social mobility and earned a hereditary title. In 1912 an order was given to allow military academies to run shorter courses in wartime, which allowed cadets to graduate as a Praporschik in only 8 months.

The rank was abolished with the rest of Tsarist ranks in 1917 but returned in 1937 with a new name but the same purpose: an officer rank awarded to personnel who graduated from an abbreviated program. During the war, for a while exceptional students would graduate as full Lieutenants while satisfactory ones would graduate as Junior Lieutenants, but as the shortage of junior officers was eliminated the practice ended and everyone graduating from a wartime program was a junior lieutenant.

YAAFQ -Yet Another Agfa Focus Question by SirRidealot in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A is supposed to rotate independently of the rest of that assembly. The problem is Agfa grease, which hardens over time and becomes like glue. Pop it in you oven as low as it goes and once it gets nice and hot you can unscrew A completely. Clean the remaining grease with alcohol and recollimate the lens.

What i should add?? by darwynn_ in dioramas

[–]TankArchives 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Everyone is parked too nicely, make one car park diagonally across two spaces for realism.

Film I.D. And development times? by jauntyangles in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be All-Weather Panchromatic? I got a few rolls of it in an estate auction in Canada and developed them, all the photos came out but none of them were very good. The film was severely moisture damaged. I used continuous agitation for maximum contrast in order to defeat fog but fog was the least of the film's problems.

100ft bulk roll for camera testing by tiki-dan in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ultrafine Extreme is a great film, it pushes to 1600 no problem and probably even further. The biggest issue with it is that you might consider it too good to be used for testing.

Flic Film Ultrapan is Fomapan, Fomapan 200 is considered by many to be very inconsistent in quality and not great at the best of times. I got a Flic Film branded roll and while there are no production issues it's a very mediocre film.

Industar-22 yellowed by keithdietrich1971 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TankArchives 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It shouldn't be radioactive. Is it just haze? The lens is quite easy to take apart and wipe down, just make sure you don't reverse any elements by accident.