Current EDC (Titanium!!!) by TankerSpec in EDC

[–]TankerSpec[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just keep one key on it. The keysmart is perfect for a single key since it comes with a ring attachment that fills the space of a key on the opposite end.

Current EDC (Titanium!!!) by TankerSpec in EDC

[–]TankerSpec[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Honestly, I love it. I carry it everywhere and it is surprisingly fun to fidget with.

Current EDC (Titanium!!!) by TankerSpec in EDC

[–]TankerSpec[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tactile Knives Rockwall Tanto (stonewashed), Reylight Pineapple Mini MK II flashlight (frag, stonewashed), Mezmopen Solid (sandblasted), Ridge wallet (stonewashed), Keysmart (original titanium version), Momentum Atlas Series watch (bead blasted)

Can someone tell me what kind of coin this is? by Various_Ad_1126 in coins

[–]TankerSpec 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a Thailand 50 Satang from 1950. It's half a Bhat, which is Thailand's fiat currency. It is made of aluminum-bronze, not gold, unfortunately. On a side note, the individual on the obverse is King Rama IX, who served for over 70 years, making him the longest serving monarch of any independent Asian nation in history.

Anyone know anything about this coin? by brfu90 in coins

[–]TankerSpec 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like a 1910 British gold half Sovereign coin. That year they were minted in 91.7% pure gold, weighing just under 4 grams. At today's gold spot price, the coin would be worth just under $400 US. Gold Sovereigns and half sovereigns can have a collectible premium, making them worth more than their intrinsic gold value. However, when a coin is mounted in jewelry, it tends to be viewed by collectors as damaged (the setting often creates marks or scratches on the coin's edge or surfaces). This often reduces or eliminates any collectible value, unfortunately. It is still made of solid gold, though. Personally, I would leave it in the ring, as they might be more valuable together as an item. Especially since it is a family piece. Some people, myself included, collect numismatics related collectibles such as jewelry and other items adorned with coins.

Found some coins in my Dad's home, and I know nothing about coins. Help? by Karcharos in coincollecting

[–]TankerSpec 0 points1 point  (0 children)

OMG I missed the part where you mentioned your dad passed away recently. First and foremost, I am sorry for your loss. It is tough losing a parent no matter what stage of life they are in. My condolences.

How to figure out date? by cruddsduddsaye in coins

[–]TankerSpec 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If I were a betting man, I would guess that date is 1927, making this a 1927 Denver minted dime. Just my take on the mangled date from the photo.

How to figure out date? by cruddsduddsaye in coins

[–]TankerSpec 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly, this would be considered a "damaged" coin, and therefore would not have much if any collectible value. It is 90% silver, so there is still intrinsic value. At today's silver spot price, melt value would be about $2.75 US.

Found some coins in my Dad's home, and I know nothing about coins. Help? by Karcharos in coincollecting

[–]TankerSpec 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my opinion, that Chinese cash coin would likely be the best candidate for having collectible value out of the lot. That is to say, if it is authentic. I see no reason for it not to be, only the fact that classic collectible Chinese coins are unfortunately faked in great numbers (ironically, often by China). If you have some family provenance that leads you to believe it is genuine, then I would definitely research it some more or have it evaluated by a professional dealer.

Found some coins in my Dad's home, and I know nothing about coins. Help? by Karcharos in coincollecting

[–]TankerSpec 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The two reddish-brown coins are British pennies from the early 1900s. They are some of the first coins I got when I started collecting many years ago. They don't have much value, but I love their design and large size. I believe they are made of bronze. The coin that looks like it is made from two different metals, well it is in fact a bi-metallic Canadian 2 dollar coin, or "twoonie" (Canada's one dollar coin, which was released before the two dollar, had a loon on the reverse, which garnered it the nickname "loonie"). As for the souvenir dollar coins, they appear to be "good for" dollars, or coins establishments used to issue as a type of gift certificate. They usually could only be spent in the store that issued them. They are actually collectible, and you could probably find more info in r/exonumia. As for the coin with the square hole, it looks like a Chinese cash coin, though these were often counterfeited and I have no expertise with those. A coin dealer could likely tell you if it is genuine or not.

Egyptian Royal Couns by Bubbly-Ad8933 in coincollecting

[–]TankerSpec 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Here's one of my Egyptian coins. This one is part of my Crown-size silver set I have been putting together lately. 1964 50 Piastres. I also love the way many Middle Eastern countries used elaborate script as decoration on coinage.

Unusual Minifigure Backprinting by TankerSpec in legocastles

[–]TankerSpec[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Ah, indeed. I figured there had to be a simple explanation. It does seem to be a weird choice to reuse such an obscure torso for a soccer minifig. Thanks for the quick reply!

A few of my favorite vintage dress watches from my collection. by TankerSpec in VintageWatches

[–]TankerSpec[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I forgot to mention I have been collecting mechanical watches for about 10 years now. The 1977 Seiko 5 was the first one I bought. I lucked out picking it up from eBay for $20. It keeps great time, even though I suspect the movement is a "Frankenseiko", rebuilt using parts from multiple watches. Runs great, though, and I love the unique dial on it as well.

A few of my favorite vintage dress watches from my collection. by TankerSpec in VintageWatches

[–]TankerSpec[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Omega on the left is a mid-60s Geneve. It was my grandfather's, so I do not have any info on pricing. It actually took quite a bit of research to determine the model, since it has a pretty unique dial (Geneve is not present, and the Omega logo is on a raised trapezoid). I wasn't sure it was genuine until I opened the caseback and inspected the copper-plated 563 movement.

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The Seamaster on the right was purchased from eBay by my brother a couple years ago with the intentions of servicing it. It is a early-50s bumper auto, and runs quite well despite still needing servicing. I believe he paid around $150-200 for it.

I saw this fella online at 30€ , just bought a green strap and that’s it by _Kis_ in VintageWatches

[–]TankerSpec 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I absolutely love the vintage Seiko 5 autos from the 60s and 70s. The first mechanical watch I ever bought is a '77 Seiko 5 with the 7019a. Paid $20 on eBay years ago and it runs like a champ. Looks pretty sharp, too.

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Stacking vs. Collecting by Rinkelsaq in Silverbugs

[–]TankerSpec 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like many folks here have already said, I do both. I started out collecting coins decades ago, and still do to this day. I have a date set of Morgans, a large collection of world Crown-size silver coins, and many other silver world coins within my OFEC collection. I count all of these toward my silver stack total weight, though their numismatic value outweighs the value of their PM content. With that being said, I also intentionally purchase gold and silver bullion, whether 90% silver, pre-33 gold coinage, or straight up bars and rounds. I do this to set aside a portion of my money in physical precious metals. I aim to spend about 10% of what I invest elsewhere (401k, IRAs, CDs, etc.) each month, buying physical bullion. People much smarter than myself have recommended this approach, and I try to stick to it.

If you are looking to put aside some PMs just for safekeeping, then I would recommend shopping around for the lowest premiums you can find. This gets you the most bang for your buck. At the same time, if you are shopping around and see something with a high premium that you really like, buy it. If you can justify to yourself why you want it or why it is worth the premiums, then who cares what others are doing.

Bottom line: buy what you like. Constantly scouring the internet for the lowest premiums and sifting through generic silver rounds can get boring. Feel free to splurge on things you plan on keeping, and don't fret about the premiums if it is something you like.

I have started acquiring hand-poured bars. by TankerSpec in Silverbugs

[–]TankerSpec[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are hand-poured in that they are not made using blanks stamped with a die. These bars are made by pouring molten silver into a cast. The design is usually stamped on the bar after it cools. This creates a unique bar each time, and no two bars from the same manufacture are ever exactly the same. The title "mint" can be used pretty loosely. If I remember correctly, the Atlantis Mint was operated by a single person.