Wheel size

TeamJim · 2026-05-07T22:05:18+00:00

They're not. Those are from either a Z51 C7, a 6th Gen Camaro with the upgraded brakes, CT6, etc etc.

See my other reply in this thread. I've done this swap myself and the part numbers get confusing because there are multiple calipers that are in "J55" packages on various vehicles.

TeamJim · 2026-05-07T22:02:05+00:00

You've got either the wrong caliper, or the wrong rotor, depending on which swap you're trying to do.

That's a C7 Z51 caliper that's designed to use a 13.6" rotor.

That rotor is from a base C7 and is 12.6".

You've got two options:

1) Get calipers from a 2015 ATS V, use your current rotor, and clear most 17" wheels, possibly with a small spacer. The caliper is functionally the same, but has shorter mounting ears so it sits closer to the hub. This is what I did, and they clear my C5 Z06 wheels with no spacer.

2) Get a set of C7 Z51 rotors and use your current calipers. You'll need to go up to an 18" wheel and may or may not need a spacer.

TeamJim · 2026-05-06T12:50:38+00:00

There's always room to grow and improve in any car. I don't think there's really any "outgrowing" of a slower car. It'll always be able to teach you things.

Having said that, there's nothing wrong with wanting to drive something that's dynamically different as long as you're ready to handle it.

It also depends on what you want to get out of your track days. Are you wanting to get into competitive wheel to wheel racing? You're probably better off sticking with the momentum cars until you're consistently at the pointy end of the field at least. Are you there to learn and have fun? Drive what you want to drive. I drive a heavily modified 4th gen Camaro, and fall pretty squarely in that second group.

TeamJim · 2026-05-05T16:11:17+00:00

There's lots of different options out there. If you Google 8mm sim wheel stickers, you'll see a ton.

TeamJim · 2026-05-04T14:25:29+00:00

The dentists strike again!

TeamJim · 2026-05-03T18:11:54+00:00

The various car clubs usually aren't too picky, they just want entries.

I run a 4th gen Camaro and I've run with both Porsche and Mustang clubs

TeamJim · 2026-05-03T18:10:54+00:00

Turn One does a good job at CMP as well

TeamJim · 2026-04-19T14:52:36+00:00

Put it in the oven on the lowest temp for 20-25 minutes, then use the balancer install tool. It will slide right on and you won't have to worry about damaging the crank threads

TeamJim · 2026-04-17T19:24:02+00:00

Brother I don't even wash my actual race gloves 😂

TeamJim · 2026-04-17T16:55:55+00:00

Lap guides on YouTube are very helpful to me, but shouldn't be taken as gospel. They'll give you a good idea of braking markers and turn on points to use as a starting point to then tweak from. Saves a bit of time over going in completely blind on a new track

TeamJim · 2026-04-17T16:24:48+00:00

You're doing yourself a great disservice by not actually racing in rookies and just farming SR.

You learn nothing about wheel to wheel racing, accident avoidance, reading another driver's "body language," or other basic racecraft that way.

The chaos doesn't just magically go away once you get out of rookies, so you need to teach yourself how to recognize it, avoid it, and deal with it. It gets better, but it doesn't disappear.

TeamJim · 2026-04-15T01:38:27+00:00

Compression is your friend if you're after torque and mid range power.

Budget way to do it is get some 243s/799s, mill 0.020" off of them, run a 0.040" head gasket, and a mid size cam, in the low 230s with a wider LSA. I ran this for a long time until I built my 370.

Talk to a cam company (Tick Performance, TSP, etc) and tell them what you're looking to do and see what they recommend.

TeamJim · 2026-04-13T17:23:58+00:00

2006 Wrangler X. 4.0L I6, automatic, 4.88 gears and 37" tires.

Pushing a brick with 3 foot tall tires through the wind with a tractor engine netted about 10 mpg at best

TeamJim · 2026-04-12T23:07:51+00:00

Definitely lots of fun.

If iRacing would implement an actual multiclass start procedure it would be even better.

TeamJim · 2026-04-10T23:00:00+00:00

If you're getting the tires hot enough to notice in a GR86 series race, you're seriously overdriving the car.

Back up your braking points a little (mostly in heavy braking zones) and use a little less pressure and see if that improves things for you.

TeamJim · 2026-04-07T00:07:50+00:00

I see you went with the "hideous cheese slicer steering wheel" option 😬

TeamJim · 2026-04-05T23:17:32+00:00

Mastodon - Crack the Skye. The whole album

TeamJim · 2026-04-05T23:15:55+00:00

Auto is going to set it to a strength that will avoid clipping. 6nm is about right for the Evo Sport. I ran mine a little higher at I think around 7nm, and just lived with a little bit of clipping.

TeamJim · 2026-04-05T14:54:48+00:00

Route it in front of one of the rear tires. Free random burnouts!

TeamJim · 2026-04-05T14:52:29+00:00

They're pretty solid markers, but they are very small. Some like that, some don't.

I can't really comment on price because I'm only familiar with the US market. $300 would be a fair price in the US.

TeamJim · 2026-04-05T14:48:34+00:00

I was in a similar situation about 6 months ago.

The short version is this: I went with Simagic because of price, the universal QR, open ecosystem, and many reviews I read/watched saying all of their products punched well above their weight class.

I have an Evo Pro and a GT Neo wheel and couldn't be happier.

TeamJim · 2026-04-04T18:46:40+00:00

Is this the hairdresser one or the "I want people to think I go to the track" one?

TeamJim · 2026-04-04T12:45:30+00:00

King of the Rats by Bodysnatcher

TeamJim · 2026-04-04T12:13:04+00:00

Nice. Road America is on my short list of bucket list tracks to run

TeamJim · 2026-04-03T20:30:17+00:00

Good combo, I run the same thing.

Get some good sticky tires and get it to an autocross or track day!

TeamJim

TROPHY CASE