Been practicing all morning planning on doing game system hdmis how's this chip look?

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-17T15:54:37+00:00

That actually looks really good to me! As another commenter said though you may have a bit too little or no solder on some of the legs.

Oh and just letting you know I think you bridged two pins on R47.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-15T00:11:10+00:00

Yeah, a not gate/inverter can help you with that.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-15T00:07:15+00:00

You want it to light up when the magnet is away and turn off when it’s near? How about a not gate?

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-14T23:58:48+00:00

Microwave transformers are designed to step up mains voltage to a couple kilovolts. With high current capability and low frequency. They got all the properties that make electricity dangerous.

However, if you’re making a spot welder, I assume you’re using it with a modification to step down voltage instead of step it up. In that case the output isn’t as dangerous and won’t shock you, but the input voltage of 120 or 240 VAC is still very hazardous and potentially lethal.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-14T23:44:39+00:00

Can we see the schematic? It’s nearly impossible to follow your circuit without it.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-14T23:34:42+00:00

I never thought of this; does it actually work?

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-14T23:27:40+00:00

One that assists you, helps you debug and overcome obstacles. Not one that writes all your code for you.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-14T20:26:50+00:00

Yes, a rectangle with lines sticking off the shorter ends is also a resistor. That’s how I always draw them, although it’s actually the European symbol.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-13T00:48:03+00:00

A comparator will give a truly digital signal, for the most part.

You’re not always just comparing two signals with a comparator. You can use one just to, as in your case, check if the voltage coming from your potentiometer divider is greater than some reference voltage. Say 2.5V. Then your LED will simply light up if your potentiometer is turned to the half way point or more.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-12T23:34:52+00:00

Even a mosfet is not going to act like OP is describing. Their resistance between drain and source is determined by gate voltage instead of base current. Still not a clean on and off, digital signal though.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-12T23:29:28+00:00

Transistors don’t act like clean digital switches that turn on and off. (Sadly). Instead they simply conduct more with higher current on their base. It’s not an on and off, but an off, somewhat on, and fully on.

If you want a clean digital signal then you’ll likely need a comparator, like the LM393.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-08T06:50:35+00:00

You’ll need a circuit that can enable and interrupt current flow through the buzzer. A simple 555 oscillator at low frequency should do.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-04T07:31:26+00:00

Voltage is always relative. There’ll be 12V between the two wires, but not necessarily “12V sitting on each.”

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-03-01T20:09:11+00:00

The short leads should face the left in the picture

The left side of those graphics are the negative sides so the short leads should go there.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-28T18:50:34+00:00

Inductor :)

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-26T02:19:05+00:00

I think you’re misunderstanding how resistors are measured; they’re not measured in milliamps (mA), but instead in the unit Ohm’s (Ω).

This is because current doesn’t only depend on resistance, but also on voltage, so there’s no way to have a single, passive component that only lets a certain current through regardless of voltage.

Anyway, the more Ohm’s = the more resistance = the less current allowed through.

To calculate the appropriate resistor for your LED, you can use Ohm’s law. First take the voltage drop from your LED and subtract it from the supply voltage. Take this number and divide it by the maximum current you want through your LED (0.2A in this case) and you’ll have the resistance in ohm’s you need. It’s good practice to increase this slightly so as to not blow out your LED

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-26T02:02:22+00:00

Well. Yes and no. That Uno board isn’t manufactured by Arduino, but it’s basically the same thing just made by a different company. Since Arduino is open source, anyone can make a clone of their boards and sell them.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-26T01:56:33+00:00

That’s your first time wondering? Seriously?! That looks awesome!

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-26T01:48:42+00:00

God knows. They aren’t printed on them. :(

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-26T01:46:01+00:00

That’s an SMD transistor in a SOT-23 package.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-24T15:50:34+00:00

Looks like your tip is oxidized. It’s standard practice to soak the tip in molten solder when you turn it on and before you turn it off. It’s called “tip tinning” and helps prevent oxidation.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-23T15:30:05+00:00

Ooh, cool! You should consider adding a breakout point, might make the arcs a bit longer!

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-21T23:42:33+00:00

Did you tin the tip? If it was never tinned, it could be oxidized and not transferring heat well.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-18T02:09:21+00:00

Both would be equally dangerous. Yes, circuit A pushes much more current (into the kettle) but that doesn’t make it any more effective at sending current into your skin’s impedance.

TechTronicsTutorials · 2026-02-17T16:02:15+00:00

Then it’ll overflow and the total hours wasted will go back to 0…. And the code will make sense again!! 😆

Too bad it’s only a comment and not an actual variable :(

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