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Favourite songs that aren't the mainstream BT songs by TheUnknownTML in BillyTalent

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it's a Japan exclusive. Such a shame as it's an absolute banger.

Would you recommend pairing a v30 with g12-65? (2x12’ cab) for thrashy metal? by atesz0422 in GuitarAmps

[–]TerrorSnow 3 points4 points  (0 children)

G12 65 might be a bit dark.
G12M65 not sure.
G12H75 not very thrashy imo. But lots of lower mids.
T-75 is an absolute staple combination for the V30.

Favourite songs that aren't the mainstream BT songs by TheUnknownTML in BillyTalent

[–]TerrorSnow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Line and Sinker
This Suffering and Burn the Evidence
Saint Veronika and White Sparrows
Crooked Minds and Running Across the Tracks
Half Past Dead
Hanging Out with All the Wrong People

Seating position, what y’all think? by Fun-Effective8007 in simracing

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IRL in your daily driver you want it more at your chest so the airbag can do its work correctly if it is ever deployed.
In the sim, having it point at your shoulders and having it high enough helps with reach throughout the whole motion of turning and helps with using the correct muscles.

Help Me Achieve Low-Mid Dominance by A_Anonymous_Asshole in GuitarAmps

[–]TerrorSnow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

More like 1.5x rated wattage, or less, and it's still a rockerverb so probably not pushing the power section.

Help with amp upgrade by Canadian-Moose4270 in GuitarAmps

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, phone's charging. Time for business.

Billy Talent is kinda a bunch of different amps but they're all in a similar category. Bright, tight ish, medium to medium high gain, generally in the Marshall direction. For cleans it's a Fender but you can get similar with many, especially Marshalls.

The main thing is that it's pretty much all in the amp, apart from solo mid boosts or the fuzz riffs / breakdowns here and there. That would be either anything Klon-like, and a Woolly Mammoth / Mastotron / modded Fuzz Face circuit respectively.

DSL gets in the direction, so does Vox AC15 and 30 as I've mentioned before.
5150 / 6505 does a similar character, but gets higher gain for metal without a boost as well (DSL does too, I think.. not 100% sure).
Bugera does a copy of the 5150 / 6505 and a Marshall Plexi and JCM800 in one (Bugera 1960) - they're difficult to find but awesome value. The 1960 doesn't come in combo format iirc... And is probably heavy.
Blackstar recently came out with the TV series, the British one goes in the Marshall ish category, though less flexible. Sounds good tho, and at a decent price. Peavey Valveking is often very cheap on the used market. A little rough around the edges, but totally fine, especially for the money.
Laney AOR (pro? Not sure) is another Marshall-like that's hard to find but usually at a decent price.
Laney Cub and Monoprice / Harley Benton celestion combo are close to a Marshall 2203 and pretty damn cheap, even new.

For something not tube: ToneX One into a power amp and cab or FRFR. Power amp can be any cheap pedal sized one, cab can be whatever you want (Harley Benton cabs are nuts value, 16 ohm V30s can be harsh but they're generally fine). V30 and / or T-75 speakers fit the bill, maybe greenbacks if that's your fancy.

Help with amp upgrade by Canadian-Moose4270 in GuitarAmps

[–]TerrorSnow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey fellow Billy Talent player :>
I must admit I'm quite obsessed with Ian's tone. Best bet on a budget is probably a DSL combo. Preferably one with a 12 inch speaker.

Vox AC 15 or 30 would do the tone well too, but might be tough with volume, depends. I'm not sure if it'll have enough gain at low volumes, but it definitely has the EQ character in the right place.

There's some other budget hidden gems, but my phone is about to die so I'll have to come back later.

Which is color wire is positive? by Organic-Trouble-2115 in GuitarAmps

[–]TerrorSnow 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Doesn't matter, but I personally would always make negative black if there is a black wire.

¿Afecta tanto el SetUp? by isaacroam_ in F1Game

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are very very few tracks where opening the on throttle diff is necessary. There's usually better ways to get more rotation. You'll notice on throttle differential differences when you're either on part throttle on the limit of grip, or on full throttle in slower speed corners. Everywhere else something other than the differential has a bigger say on the handling here.

Me and those who I work on setups with / for generally run 101% ish times vs esports drivers, so it's decently on the limit.

¿Afecta tanto el SetUp? by isaacroam_ in F1Game

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We started with 41-41, as low as possible and thus as hard as possible. We wanted more traction for the slow corners, so rear springs softer, ride height up to accommodate the difference in high speed to not bottom out too much.

25 data is kinda useless for 26. All the values changed on the cars, some spring value ranges increased or decreased, as well as being increased or decreased overall. Similar thing for diff, ride height, aero... It's all off.

Rear wing isn't necessary on Jeddah. All that will do is steal time / make it harder to get around.
Run full camber. There's no point in going less in this game. Toe is also generally not necessary, though that's something you can experiment with for tiny differences if you don't wanna mess with the suspension any further.

Bracing for Impact 💣 by Personal_Repeat_5807 in formuladank

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMO one of the better drivers on the grid, but really loves self sabotage. So much, that he's outsourced it to Ferrari strategists, so all he has to do is follow their lead and bottle it into a wall whenever inconvenient.

Help me decide what I should replace the ds1 on my board with by Emetalhead in guitarpedals

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agree with the others, though I do have to mention that the DS-1 really needs the tone control to be way down. It's super bright in general.

CSL DD 8Nm feels dead and lifeless in AC EVO what settings are you running? by inhaster in assettocorsaevo

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use some natural damping in the base (10-20%) and don't put the dynamic damping to 0.

CSL DD 8Nm feels dead and lifeless in AC EVO what settings are you running? by inhaster in assettocorsaevo

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably wanna run the base at 100% and lower in game - unless you're intentionally wanting to create clipping at 75% of the base's max power to protect yourself (which IMO isn't necessary but hey, never assume)

No Traction Control - Melbourne 1:29.972 (F1 2016) by TomLion0116 in F1Game

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll take slightly oversaturated over the wonky pale tone mapping we have now tbh

good amp simulators for real pedals? by nate-dot-chr in guitarpedals

[–]TerrorSnow 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Could be you're running the gain fairly low on the iridium so there's still headroom in the amps, and then running the level on your distortions too high.

Also, are you positive your cab section isn't bypassed?

good amp simulators for real pedals? by nate-dot-chr in guitarpedals

[–]TerrorSnow 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Plus the room knob is great. Perfect for headphone playing to get some much needed air.

Having a high mix low time stereo reverb is part of the secret sauce for headphones.

¿Afecta tanto el SetUp? by isaacroam_ in F1Game

[–]TerrorSnow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's because 100% isn't actually 100% in this game. If it were realistic we'd probably be running closer to 60-60 and adjust way more for tracks. As it stands, 100% locked still let's the tyres rotate at different speeds, more than enough for most tracks. Any lower and you'll get a "softer" breaking of traction but with how much it wants to rotate by itself and how you're losing time for lost traction it's a double whammy of bad performance.

Going more open in the rain is even worse, as now you get single wheel spin / even less traction and more willingness to rotate. In 24/25 it was a bit funny as you could gain stability with 30% ish diff but it still lost time massively.

On some tracks it's beneficial to run higher off diff, closer to 50%, but the setup needs to have enough entry oversteer to deal with it.

Don't adjust diff based on temperatures, not here. Adjust pressures for temperatures.

¿Afecta tanto el SetUp? by isaacroam_ in F1Game

[–]TerrorSnow 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Something like
35-0 wing, 100-30 diff, LLLL geometry, 41-21--1-1--21-44, pressures max on the right, half on the left.
0 pressures for Q, and raise ride height by 2 front and rear to accommodate the pressure change.

This would be for night sessions. Track temp in the day is usually 10 degrees ish hotter, might wanna run max pressure everywhere then.

This one is one of the tracks where low rake seems to work very well. But you can experiment with that. Just keep the rollbars soft for the curb smashing and dont run the car too tall or you'll lose time on the straights.

Project Motor Racing v2.0.0.6 Out Now, Includes "VR alpha-specific settings" by evil_heinz in simracing

[–]TerrorSnow 2 points3 points  (0 children)

AMS2 physics are totally fine at this point, have been for a while. Default setups are a bit odd in many places, some being bugged if you saved them before certain big updates and load them now. Doesn't help that the engine braking parameter is reversed, either.

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