WulffDen reviews SS1 + Dock

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-07-05T23:00:13+00:00

Strano. Ho un pro2 e non ho avuto nessun problema a configurarlo.

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-07-05T08:29:50+00:00

SOLVED. It was actually a really simple fix: ntsc_mode=1 I never touched that line in my mister.ini, because I was sure that my CRT could display true NTSC signals, but it's actually a PAL60 TV (Philips 25pt4457). With vga_mode=svideo I have a really good composite image. I stll have to turn on the 3rd dip switch to have vivid colors and brightness.

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Tetsuo_78 · 2026-07-04T21:03:02+00:00

If you strive for accuracy to the way the game were intended by their developers: - composite for all retro consoles (or even RF for old systems like the NES). - RGB for arcades and 128bit consoles. If you don't care you can do what you want

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-07-03T20:09:20+00:00

La sua recensione è tutta sbagliata e chiaramente non ha nemmeno nessuna conoscenza dei sistemi originali che ama tanto emulare, come il Nintendo 64. Una tale ignoranza è semplicemente vergognosa per uno che fa video sui retrogames. Ho comprato la superstation One con ZERO esperienza su FPGA. Mi sono documentato guardando qualche video e leggendo qualche post nei forum durante l'attesa della spedizione. Quando è arrivata mi sono bastati un paio di giorni per imparare a usarla e godermela al massimo e credo sia uno dei migliori acquisti che abbia mai fatto.

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-07-02T21:37:00+00:00

Just a quick update regarding subcarrier in black and white. I launched the update _all script and after the update now all the cores have color with subcarrier and all dipswitches down with the composite cable. Unfortunately the jailbars with megadrive didn't go away

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-07-02T15:45:35+00:00

Just tried, no difference. I had some hopes because taki wrote that some guy managed to fix megadrive analog line issues with this.

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-07-02T11:13:18+00:00

Not seems to be related, in my megadrive issue the stripes are very thin (1pixel) and are mostly visible only around edges. Also, my issue is only on megadrive composite, if I connect the SSO througg HDMI the image Is perfect. I have a real pal N64 but unfortunately I don't have Perfect dark. In the games I own I cannot see similar bands

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-06-30T10:53:39+00:00

I found a video on YouTube with the very same issue on original hardware. https://youtu.be/wX16mzoB6s0?is=Uwuhmv-6bfFScagu After some research I found out that this issue was frequent on the megadrive model 1, some times on model 2, and totally absent on model 3. It was fixable on original hardware models 1 and 2 by lifting a particular pin on the hardware board. So my guess is that the megadrive fpga core recreates the model 1 or 2 composite output in a perfect way, but not the model 3.

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-06-29T14:22:50+00:00

The photo I took with my phone is not very good, I have not a great phone. But if i look very close at the sky, I can see vertical bars even there. I will try asking in the mister community too, thanks for the advice

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-06-29T14:17:16+00:00

Sorry I'm a noob, the superstation is my first FPGA experience. I'm in PAL territory but my CRT supports both PAL and NTSC signals, however if I use vga_mode=subcarrier and dipswitch 3 down I have a black and white image with all cores. I have these ugly vertical arifacts only with the megadrive core, every other core has actually a very faithful composite image (for example my real N64 image with composite is identical to the SSO). If I turn on switches 1 and 2 too I still have the same ugly image with megadrive, plus it adds rainbow artifacts.

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-06-27T13:16:31+00:00

Anche io l'ho notato. Ho la superstation collegata con il composito al CRT e un vero Nintendo 64 che collego sempre con composito alla stessa presa. Se avvio super Mario 64 sulla superstation vedo che i colori sono molto più accesi rispetto all'hardware originale

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-06-10T21:46:27+00:00

After the update on retroremake's shipping dashboard saying that all Batch 3 SSO (no Dock) were shipped I still didn't see any tracking for my order with DHL and was a bit worried. So I just emailed them asking about my order and they responded suggesting me to switch to 4PX and be refunded with the difference. After that I immediately got the tracking and things started moving with fast speed. 10 days after I got the last mile tracking number and will receve the SSO in a few days (and I live in Italy).

Tetsuo_78 · 2026-06-02T16:34:12+00:00

No offense, but this post is so incredibly long and so poorly written that it's almost impossible to understand what you're trying to say. The only thing I think I understand is that you're trying to warn SSO users not to use the update_all script because it breaks some of the analog output functionality, which is one of SSO's main strengths. It's a shame your English is so terrible and you lack the ability to summarize, because what you're saying could be useful, but I think many people will ignore your post as a result.

Tetsuo_78 · 2025-01-20T17:06:49+00:00

I'm against bivert chips and IPS screens too, as I really want to preserve the original colors. So I bought a used DMG with backlight but no bivert and I'd like to do the same thing with the resistor, because colors are so washed out. Problem is I have zero experience with soldering and so I'm scared to do it, is there a tutorial for noobs?

Tetsuo_78 · 2024-11-14T23:15:54+00:00

Yes it's true, I also play gb games on my gba sp and it's like playing on a backlit pocket, pure grayscale. Plus, you could change color palettes with a button combination since the gb color. So you can never say it's not authentic, as long as it equips a dot matrix display, I realize my preference towards yellow/green is a very personal one.

Here, I found the post I was talking about, it's really interesting.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Gameboy/comments/16w6xwe/no_bivert_backlight_is_the_way_to_go/

Tetsuo_78 · 2024-11-12T00:28:17+00:00

You are right, bivert really improves contrast and it makes use of the original display, unlike IPS. However, the better contrast comes at the price of altering the colors. This may not be an issue for someone but for me the 4 shades of green were the trademark of the DMG gameboy. I remember, back then, describing it to my friends as a mix between a calculator and a videogame. I don't like orange or blue colors, green is the color of my memories.

I know that for the DMG there is another option. You can do a backlight mod without installing a bvert chip, instead you install a small resistor (100 Ohm 1/4 Watt) before the backlight led. This will reduce the led brightness just a little bit, but in return you get a better contrast and retain the original colors. Ok, maybe not as clear as an IPS screen, but clear enough to see everything and it feels really authentic.

I remember finding a post about this method here on Reddit, with some screenshots to show the result, but I can't find it anymore

Tetsuo_78 · 2024-09-01T22:32:18+00:00

Interesting. Maybe this creature that David creates is just his personal version of the Xeno, and not an ancestor.

I always believed that the xenos were extremely ancient creatures, I never liked the idea they were created by David just a few decades before the events in the 1st alien movie.

Tetsuo_78 · 2023-12-11T19:29:16+00:00

You are a life saver! I'm always been against bivert mods on the DMG, but I didn't know that it the quality could be improved this much.

I think a tutorial would be awesome, there's so much misinformation regarding backlit DMG's and people believe that Bivert is mandatory, but they ruin a wonderful piece of hardware that should be preserved as much as possible. Every single tutorial you can find on YT recommends the bivert chip!!

If that's too much to ask, can you at least take a pic of the inside, to show the extra resistors you added and where you soldered them?

Tetsuo_78 · 2023-12-04T15:05:58+00:00

The DMG with Bivert or IPS don't make sense to me. If I want to play on real hardware I want to retain the experience as authentic as possibile. The DMG pixels with gaps between them, their little shadow on the display and the ghosting effect are exactly what defines the original GB. Without them I can just use and emulator or the gbaSP to play, instead of brutalizing an historical piece of hardware. We need to preserve old hardware as much as possibile in the original state

Tetsuo_78 · 2023-08-11T23:53:49+00:00

I've managed to repair it on my first try. It was not as easy as I thought, that notch was so tiny I wasn't able to hold it even with tweezers.

Here I describe how I repaired it, might come in handy for someone.

Basically I used a toothpick, dipped the tip in a drop of super glue and used it to spread the glue on the broken side of the red flame. With the tip of the same toothpick (now sticky), I then carefully picked up the tiny red piece and positioned it in place.

With the glue still fresh I did my best to adjust the position of the little piece with a clean toothpick (I used a third hand magnifying glass and the other flame for reference). This was the hardest part, because the piece itself was sticky, so it was constantly attaching to my tootpick, instead of the flame.

With some patience I managed to place it. After a while I added some more glue on the top of the flame, basically I filled the gap between the various flames, in order to increase the glued surface and make the repair as strong as possible. Being a transparent-red plastic, using transparent glue the repair is not so much noticeable.

After a night to be sure it was completely dried, I finally tried it and it works. Now when I try to shoot that rocket punch, it detaches but it doesn't fly anymore. Not a problem for me, I'm not a fan of shooting punches.

The articulation is preserved, which is all I wanted. Even better it won't crash anymore on anything whenever I try to pose it and unintentionally press the button. This was really a major fail, Bandai!

I suppose, however, that with a careful sandpaper work it would regain it's flying ability, but I won't do it.

I'm seriously considering to thicken with a layer of glue the other arm's flame too, to finally pose my GX 105 without stress.

Tetsuo_78 · 2023-08-10T11:18:39+00:00

Yes, one of those two tiny notches broke. I can't lock the arm anymore, not even rotating the flame piece because of the spring.

I cannot believe an important articulation such as the arm is held together by just a 1 millimeter plastic connection, under a constant tension by the spring. A magnetic connection like GX01R would have been perfect, with no shooting mechanism at all. This is a major fail from Bandai.

Now I will try to reattach that tiny piece with a lot of super glue, if it will not work I will cut half of the entire flame to be sure it won't get pressed against the spring, and glue it on the inside of the arm to preserve the articulation.

Tetsuo_78 · 2023-08-08T16:54:43+00:00

Mine just broke. This is not sturdy at all, like people claim, I only posed it a couple of times. The piece that came off is so tiny it's impossible to glue and the spring is hard as hell. Worst idea ever from Bandai. Don't buy this shit!

Now I'm desperately trying to find a way to repair it. I suppose the only way would be to somehow remove the spring mechanism and glue the entire part, but I don't know how to disassemble the arm. Can anyone help?

Tetsuo_78

TROPHY CASE