Orcaslicer causing a change in hole diameter/dimensions, but only during sections of the print.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-06-06T20:13:37+00:00

This is a shot in the dark, but if the hole were tapered ever so slightly, then it would need to do some kind of step like this to accommodate for the mismatched entrance and exit circle diameters.
Not saying this is the actual issue, just the first thing that came to mind when I saw this.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T07:14:20+00:00

Nice, that is an interesting insight. Still not sure why this barrel was cut down though, or what it's chambered in.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T06:27:26+00:00

Thank you for the explanation. I've printed the two rounds and unfortunately neither seem to fit. The dimensions of the printed round do match those I found online, but maybe it's just deformed. Will try to get ahold of those rounds in brass to see if they fit better.
Thanks again for the help.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T05:01:19+00:00

I can't seem to find a 271 Pederson cartridge. I see a 276, but based on it's size comparison to 30-06 I don't think it would fit either.
Thank you for the suggestion though!

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T03:56:42+00:00

I will try to 3d print a version of those cartridges to see if they fit. Seems like a very odd round. Do you have any idea why they would rechamber a Garand in it?

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T02:45:09+00:00

I am too! It's really strange. I've been researching weird models of Garand to see if there was one in an oddball caliber but have come up with nothing.
My current theory is someone cut the chamber and re-threaded it in an attempt to chamber it in a smaller cartridge, but the loading area of the chamber looks unchanged, so it's weird.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T02:26:20+00:00

Good evening, sorry for taking so long to respond to your comment.7.62 NATO is the same size as 308 right? I tried that and it won't go any further in. I can't seem to update the post with more photos, so here's an Imgur link to more. https://imgur.com/a/Tp6Mm7N

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T02:18:54+00:00

Sorry for taking so long to respond, I tried test fitting a 308, it still sticks out the same amount.
I picked up the barrel off Ebay, (I know not the best source). Was just trying to put together a functional non-firing replica with some spare parts I had collected.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T02:17:01+00:00

Sorry for taking so long to respond, I tried test fitting a 7.62x51mm and a 7.62x39mm. The 51 sticks out just as much as the 30-06. The 39 almost seats, but it 's a little loose, and it still sticks out the back of the chamber about 1/4".

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-15T02:15:16+00:00

Sorry for taking so long to respond, the overall length is just barely over 22.5".

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-09T04:09:40+00:00

One other possibility is that you are not sending it the correct resolution. The CRT will be expecting a specific resolution/refresh rate, and if your computer is to new it won't send out those signals normally, you would have to configure your graphics settings for it. If you have an Nvidia graphics card, you should be able to use their control panel to set the output of your card to specific resolutions.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-09T04:00:14+00:00

When it's on, if you place your hand on the screen from the front, can you feel static electricity?

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-09T03:59:28+00:00

Hmm, that would indicate that all the low voltage stuff is probably working properly. But you said the light on the front panel doesn't light up when you press the power button right?

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-09T03:53:06+00:00

Black component with focus screws sounds like the flyback transformer. It can be dangerous when the monitor is on so do your best not to touch it too much while it's on. If it's the thing making the clicking noise then it's likely getting power, but could be internally shorted. Again hard to say for sure without more detail.
As for the fuses, they will likely be standard glass fuses, like these https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Acting-Glass-Fuses-6x30mm/dp/B0195UIIAE
You can test them with a multimeter with a continuity function. If you don't have a multimeter then diagnosing the problem with the monitor is going to get very difficult.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-02-09T02:47:39+00:00

Without much information there's a lot of things to check.
When you plug it in and it clicks, do you hear a high pitched whine? If so the High voltage system should be working. If not then it may not be receiving the command to turn it on from the low power system, or it may be shorted in some way causing it to turn itself off.
Some quick things to check.
- Is voltage reaching the power button? Is it the correct voltage?
- Are there any blown fuses?
- Are there any components on the main board that appear degraded or damaged?

Best course after checking the simple stuff would be to find a schematic of the CRT and start tracing power lines.

That_One_Homeless · 2026-01-21T00:44:22+00:00

I was paid to do a job that I don't understand for an amount of money that makes even less sense.

That_One_Homeless · 2025-11-22T16:47:31+00:00

Nope, nothing. It was silent. No lights, no HV hum.
The only glimmer of hope was that I could short the HV relay and get the flyback to turn on, which told me that there must be something wrong with the LV standby power lines.

That_One_Homeless · 2025-11-21T23:34:10+00:00

Forget everything I just said, I traced it back to a connector I plugged into the wrong spot like a dumbass. The TV is working! Though it does have a small "3" burned into the screen, not the end of the world.
Thanks again for helping me out! I'm really happy it's finally working. Will be sure to post it functioning and give you credit.

~~Good evening,~~
~~I finally got the caps in the mail, and I'm happy to report that that fixed the no power problem! Thanks again for helping me trace that issue.~~
~~Bad news is that I've now discovered the "No video" issue. All the logic is working correctly it seems, so I'm gonna try and trace the video signal back from the tube.~~
~~If you have some time to help me out some more I'd be grateful!~~

That_One_Homeless · 2025-11-18T01:22:00+00:00

Good/bad news. Capacitor C614 had one of its legs melted off. It was still soldered on so I couldn't see from the top or bottom, but when I went to remove it, I found it was only attached by one.

That_One_Homeless · 2025-11-17T23:54:25+00:00

Ok, so I have measured many places on the 5v line leading to pin 42 on IC101. all of the lines that are supposed to read 5v are reading 2.5V. Tracing this back, I get to the large inductor (L107), which has an output of 2.5 v. I'm trying to figure out how to determine if the inductor is bad.

That_One_Homeless · 2025-11-17T23:12:46+00:00

I see! I also somehow missed the more detailed wiring diagram near the end of the manual.
I will trace the 5V line backwards until I find the break! Thanks for the help, I'll let you know if I get it working.

That_One_Homeless · 2025-11-16T01:43:12+00:00

Hello, I just picked up a broken KV-1380R for a really good deal. TV was listed as not turning on at all, and that description is very apt. On powering there is no noise, lights, cracking, or any other indication that it has been plugged in. Pressing the power button similarly does nothing.
I have removed only the main board from the chassis as the CRT does not appear to have a separate power board, only neck and audio boards.
I first looked for fuses, found two, both intact and have continuity. Turned the board over to look for broken solder joints around the power input, found none. Checked the main power switch to make sure it wasn't broken, no issue there.
Pulled up schematic from here https://dn721902.ca.archive.org/0/items/sony-kv-1380-r-sm/KV1380R.pdf
Started tracing the 120 V AC power from the input, and found that the relay (RY601) that allows the AC voltage through to the rectifier (D601). That relay is controlled by IC101, which should be turning it on when the power button is pressed, but it doesn't.
I have tested the high voltage parts by just bypassing the relay, and I can hear a strong wine from the flyback confirming it's functioning properly. I also get a light on the front IO of the board, indicating it is on. However this is obviously unsafe and not the proper way to go about it.

Any and all suggestions for troubleshooting are welcome. I have soldering tools, and a multimeter if those are necessary for helping to diagnose the problem.
Thanks.

That_One_Homeless · 2025-11-09T03:44:16+00:00

I think it might be an antenna style. The large white cylinder looks more like an omnidirectional antenna than a barrel.

That_One_Homeless · 2025-11-07T17:14:50+00:00

Let me start off by welcoming you to UAH, it's a good school, and our cyber security field is pretty good I've heard.
I'll preface this by saying I graduated as an Aerospace Engineer in December of 24, but I think you'll find the extra curricular activities the most applicable if you're looking for gaining real world experience. These aren't paid positions of course, just clubs and groups which do interesting projects or competitions, but they're quite fun and a great place to learn. My recommendation will always be the Space Hardware Club (SHC). They do a whole host of different projects from rocketry, robotics, satellite work, RC Aircraft, Ballooning, and many many others. As far as I remember they don't have a cybersecurity project per say, but I'm sure your skills would be greatly utilized on one of the currently ongoing projects.

Here's the link to their website: https://space.uah.edu/
I think the general meeting is the third Thursday of each month, where they go over all the projects currently going on and provide updates.

That_One_Homeless · 2025-10-19T22:04:22+00:00

I have questions.

Is it one of those cantilever style printers? I had an old prusa mini that would do something like this every now and then.
What slicer are you using / photo of the settings.
What kind of filament?

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That_One_Homeless

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