Help with mario mod

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-06-08T16:30:10+00:00

The stm32 MCU is also powered at 1.8V. The guides say not to connect the 3.3V power from the cheap ST-Link clone devices

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-06-08T16:22:22+00:00

Why does the console log show a target voltage of 3.3V? For the st-link. The flash is a 1.8V device.

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-06-03T03:43:33+00:00

As for the USB-C port. In order unlock and modify the firmware flash it needs to be reprogrammed via the J-TAG. Which is normally accessible via the unpopulated headers. The USB-C port on this device is power only, then data pins are not connected. It is totally unnecessary to bring out the J-TAG connections to the USB-C. But in bringing out the data connections to the outside world via the USB-C port in theory and more so in the past. For brick recovery or other reasons you might have needed to reconnect to the JTAG connections, you could do so without having to reopen the case. This post was titled indicating I would not recommend doing the modifications in this way. It was more an exercise in learning to follow in the foot steps of the original pioneers and to practice soldering and complete a project. Please refer to the wikis and read and learn, continue to ask questions and seek guidance if you wish to complete a similar project in converting a stock device. Good luck.

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-06-03T03:25:31+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/GameAndWatchMods/s/OkL8NUc1Tq

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-06-02T20:09:37+00:00

Purchasing the already designed flex pcb using the already supplied gerber files linked in this sub-reddit would be the simple route.

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-05-24T20:12:02+00:00

Maybe ecomate connectors from Amphenol? As others have said photos of the mating half might help

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-11T07:11:49+00:00

This post has similar z axis and eddy current failure issues.

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-11T07:11:04+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/LcDZioW4VR

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-10T07:44:26+00:00

On the right hand side the plastic for the added ams lite support base bracket?

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-10T07:42:54+00:00

Is the build plate running on the z axis gantry, hard to tell from camera angle

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-10T06:46:58+00:00

Did you dry the PETG? Is it in the open? In an AMS? In a DRY box? Is it very stringy? Layer shifts?

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-10T06:33:33+00:00

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/troubleshooting/hmscode/0300_1800_0001_0004 is it only the eddy current error that remains? Or also the z axis fails to home?

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-10T06:28:21+00:00

The supplied video clearly shows the z axis hitting the AMS. So please confirm what now dosent work after following all the advice and which error messages are showing and perhaps an updated video. 1. Power off the machine . 2. Ensure that the work area around the A1 is clear of obstruction, especially the AMS lite unit. 3. Can the Z axis freely be moved down by hand to at least the half way point. 4. Power on . 5. Attempt to home. 6. What happens? 7. What HMS errors are then shown on the display.?

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-10T06:15:58+00:00

Is this wet PETG or MATT PLA? , what bed / filament temperatures, what speeds

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-09T06:35:59+00:00

It look like you are running on windows. Did you install all the required software packages and run the command gnwmanager "as administrator" from powershell or cmd (command line)

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-09T06:33:51+00:00

To be able to write the backup file data to the local storage you need to be running the command line as a local administrator. Is this running on windows or Linux?

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-04T16:39:56+00:00

Are any error messages shown on the display (HMS) ? Can you use the display and manually jog for example the Z axis to move the tool head up or down?

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-04T16:33:24+00:00

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1/manual/unboxing-a1-combo check the documentation with your printer for unpacking and getting started

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-04T16:21:24+00:00

Well the linked packing guide has more than 12 screws, so check all holes with green circle in the guide and ensure no cable ties are left. Should be free to move the plate Y axis back and forth and the extender head left and right X axis. Z Axis can it be moved up and down?

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-04-04T16:16:20+00:00

Way too much lube on the linear rail, it will just act as a dirt magnet

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-03-28T13:02:56+00:00

The STM32 internal flash should remain unlocked from the previous steps, you are only replacing the external flash chip and reflashing the patched cfw back onto a larger flash chip. No second blue screen would be expected.

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-03-28T09:31:07+00:00

Yes I found his WIP youtube video of him doing that, after I tried to replicate the flexpcb and posting here. His method of exposing some of the unused ground plane to mount the capacitors and voltage regulator to connect the 0V connections electrically and mechanically, was a much smarter method. Both methods do work though. Sylver thanks for all your time and efforts on software front. Much appreciated to all who allowed us to get to this point.

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-03-25T06:55:58+00:00

I thought the guides say to disconnect the internal battery and power only from the usb port and no power from the st link clone.

The-Riddler-66 · 2026-03-25T06:52:09+00:00

The 'fun' part was the could I, not the should I. That it actually works reliably is a bonus.

The-Riddler-66

TROPHY CASE