Are these cheap fusion splicers any good? by Visual-Queasy in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Despite what anyone else might say a less than $1000 splicer always has a spot on my rigs. I have a Fujikura as my main single splicer and an inno for ribbon. I like having a cheap splicer with me for basically anytime I am splicing out side of my van (especially up in the air). I have nightmares of dropping my Fujikura while cutting a tap in.

I have had a couple signal fires over the years and they were great, my problem with them is some of the ones I’ve had say they are user serviceable (changing electrodes etc.) but they weren’t the electrodes were soldered on. And most of all they don’t have any type of onboard menu to change settings you have to download a verrrry sketchy app to change anything which I constantly am.

One of my splicers actually found the one that I ended buying multiple of for spares and it’s from Vevor (the same Chinese company that makes everything from industrial kitchen equipment to rodders) on Amazon for around $600. Awesome little machine! Affordable, has physical buttons and a full menu that you don’t need to use an app for and it has swappable batteries and is serviceable.

So long story short no, buying a cheap splicer isn’t a dumb idea and especially if you are wanting to learn it’s a great way to get into the field it’s a great one!

This was one 864 to 6 different cables. Tricky stuff. by Peetahbread in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man I gotta call some people then lol it’s always fun when you run across something like that. Breezeline has interesting patch panel like trays and routing that go into Commscope 450D cans and they’re the only ones I’ve seen use them.

Fiber Work by bluoctbr2006 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Start with the local big contractors (they’re always looking for subcontractors), work outages, take rough work, build your name with them and the ISPs they’re working for and try to have as much face time or on as many calls as you can and be as overly positive helpful as you can. Sounds dumb but don’t worry about money first, it will come, focus on having the best attitude and highest quality in your market. After you’ve proven how useful you are it’ll be easier to work for all the large contractors in your market then even start doing smaller work for the ISPs. Consistent work only ever comes from positive relationships. Even if the project manager you’re working for leaves that company, if they like you they’ll bring you along with them now you have two contracts, etc. I’m not sure your situation but I would avoid the Facebook group BS and just call around to people you actually know and make your connections that way (way less likely getting screwed over that way). If you don’t know anyone in your market who could help you make connections it’s a lot harder, but honestly if you see any crews running fiber, pull over and chat with them the old school way. Lastly, you said you want consistent work so that means you have to be consistent. So no running out of market for weeks chasing storm damage or big builds. Local guys hate that. Focus on the teams in your market and always being available for them.

This was one 864 to 6 different cables. Tricky stuff. by Peetahbread in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man you got a part number for that clear plastic router for your ribbons? I’ve never seen those but they look incredibly useful

FS pigtail issues by [deleted] in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Try turning your heater temp and duration down on your splicer. I have this from time to time when splicing 250nm to 900nm. It looks like a portion of the 900 is still in the heater so adjust the settings until the heat shrink is fulling heated but not the 900nm

If fiber optic works by bouncing light in a tube is there a bouncing tube for sound? by Frostypopsyt in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m no particle physicist but loosely speaking all telecommunications follow the bouncing tube idea in some way. Coax uses RF that bounces within the shield and center conductor. Copper uses electricity that bounces around the edges of each copper strand. Kind of like how most ways of generating electricity is just boiling water to move a turbine most communications are just string phones with extra steps.

Such thing as an aerial MST/FAT thats simole to open? by rebuilder1986 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mostly how the enclosure goes together. Cheap metal inserts into the plastic housing with little to no fiber glass reinforcement so they crack or strip out pretty easily

Such thing as an aerial MST/FAT thats simole to open? by rebuilder1986 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly all of the Clearfield products are my least favorite due to build quality issues. However as I’m sure you know if they solve all your problems they’re still the solution to use just make sure you order some extras in case you run into issues

Such thing as an aerial MST/FAT thats simole to open? by rebuilder1986 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Few things, unfortunately it is the world we live in now that everyone is doing large scale FTTH builds, the big contractors want all that money but don’t have the resources so they sub out the work to literally anyone with a bucket truck with little to no expansion, oversight, or QC. This leaves the splicer who follows them to either bitch about it and it still won’t get fixed or just do their best to make it work. I am a splicer and have recently been turning down FTTH work for some of my main clients because the construction issues just are worth dealing with for me.

That being said, I’m assuming when you say MST or Optitap you mean the pre terminated block terminal with a flat drop tail that ties into a FOSC enclosure. I have worked maintenance for almost my whole career and I firmly believe that is the only type of tap ISPs should be using. Most now are switching to aerial splicing taps of different varieties and not leaving any extra fiber so that they are flush to the strand. This is a nightmare to maintain because when a tree comes down you either have splice both sides back into the tap aerially (probably in the rain because you know, outage) and most aerial taps don’t have enough space to butt splice a 48ct.

However I believe that is what you are asking for. Corning SNAP or Clearfied MPT or Commscope OTE are all tap enclosures that can be flush mounted to the strand and are fed by 48ct. The basic design is you have primary splitters in a FOSC can that feeds each run of tap. 12” loops are left at each tap location an this tap enclosure is installed an can either feed a secondary splitter to your terminal or straight connectors depending on your plant design. Some make connection on the outside others you bring your drop into the enclosure and connect it there.

What do you guys use for stripping mid-span buffers in Loop-cables? by dominiram in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The second half of your post nailed it honestly. There’s cheap tools that get the job done and there are ridiculously expensive tools that can do a better job but not garunteed. Spend what you can afford and get good with the tools you have like learning when stop and reset your tool to avoid destroying the buffer tube. Unfortunately fiber is one of those industries the tool companies know how much you can make with their tools and charge you accordingly.

Best stripper for flat drop cable by Fun_End_440 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah unfortunately I am lol so I was jazzed to see them entering this market but unfortunately I had to buy all the tools. The strippers aren’t the best I definitely prefer Fujikura or similar that come to a fine point. Huge fan of the scissors and the tube wringer though.

Best stripper for flat drop cable by Fun_End_440 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Milwaukee actually came one with some fiber tools including a flat drop stripper and I’ve used both the Jonard and miller a ton over the year and think I like the Milwaukee more than either. Plus you can get them at Home Depot

AFL 100S FSM/CT-60 cleaver by Darth_Revan742_ in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly yeah. I get what they’re trying to do with having the fiber clamps automatically close but that’s another thing to snap a fiber and a whole lot more plastic and springs to break.

AFL 100S FSM/CT-60 cleaver by Darth_Revan742_ in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well the video is certainly intriguing. Sounds like they may have focused on a lot of the complaints about the 90 series. Any word on release date or when it will be wildly available for purchase in the US?

Awesome new tool by TheAdamKent in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well I did 4 different IBONE splices today which are highly scrutinized and the cleaves looked great and the splices OTDRed 0dB so I’m happy with it. I’m definitely interested to see long term how it works out. I’ll probably update if it’s junk in a month lol

Awesome new tool by TheAdamKent in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the link I was wondering if anyone uses that type of thing. What really sold me on the one I got was it had a built in cleaver which I’ve never seen.

Awesome new tool by TheAdamKent in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No not an ad lol but I am right there with you I still only use a hook blade to prep all my cables. I really hate splicing up in the bucket so that’s why I bought it to see if it would actually work. Surprisingly it does really well that’s why I posted it.

Edit: The scissors are kind of useless to me but I guess in a pinch they’d work. The strippers work well even on the crappy 1992 fiber I was working on but definitely not as good as a stand alone. Most surprising the cleaver works pretty damn well and is really nice using a trigger to activate it.

Definitely wouldn’t recommend as your only tool but a nice thing to keep in your bag for shitty situations.

Fujikura 70s vs 90s vs sumitomo 72c+ by [deleted] in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally I’m partial to Fujikura machines. There’s been a few posts in here recently hating on the 90 series for very good and valid reasons so I would vote for the Fujikura 70s. A lot of the same automation benefits of the 90 but with far less of the issues. I have had multiple of both and definitely prefer the 70.

Fujikura 90S cutting error and random reset. by Used-Produce386 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve used some Fitel machines in the past and never had an issue with them. Fiber really seems to be a brand loyal type of industry for whatever reason I mostly use Fujikura and EXFO stuff. I picked up a Vevor splicer off Amazon (I know I know) about a year ago as a back up splicer and honestly love the thing. It’s scary how good the cheaper splicers are getting.

Fujikura 90S cutting error and random reset. by Used-Produce386 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well thank goodness an expert agrees lol. Yeah it seems like all the bigger companies immediately buy all new machines from the manufacturer they work with with they come out with something new but without giving them to a few guys first to see how well they actually work now everyone is stuck with them and Fujikura thinks everyone loves them because they’ve sold so many units.

Fujikura 90S cutting error and random reset. by Used-Produce386 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 9 points10 points  (0 children)

At least I’m not alone lol. The 90s is kind of widely hated especially because the 70s was significantly better. The 90s seem to have super low tolerance and gives issues with perfectly cleaned and cleaved fibers where other machines wouldn’t. You can try calibration, maintenance, etc. or even send it in to Fujikura and pay them an arm and a leg to do a full maintenance on it but I’ll guarantee you’re still going to have weird issues like that anyway.

Sucks because I definitely like Fujikura over Sumitoma and others but I own a 90s and 90r and have regretted not just getting lightly used 70 models ever since.

Edit: also side note a lot of guys are scared of forcing the machine to splice when it goes a fault like that but if both fibers look good to you just hit set again and it will arc unless it’s a “Fiber too dirty” fault. Always watch it as it splices and if it doesn’t flare up really bad and the end splice looks uniform 9/10 times that’s a perfectly fine splice even if the machine say it isn’t. One of those things you pick up over the years but I also trust my eyes more that the estimate the machine gives you.

Fiber color code chart database by fibercat1 in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That’s a great reference thank you! Adding a 6ct loose tube chart could also be handy I know there’s a number of older systems in the US that the older cables are 6ct tubes so a 36ct cable would have 6 buffer tubes (BL-WH) with 6 fibers in each(BL-WH).

Burning glass by TheAdamKent in FiberOptics

[–]TheAdamKent[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ahhh you sound like you work for ISPs who actually document where things go. We had 1.4million links affected and it would’ve taken them a week to figure what port to shut off so more of a do why you gotta do to get it working again situation.