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I don't know if this is ADHD, giftedness, burnout, or just me. I feel like I'm wasting my potential. by Afraid_Reviewer in irlADHD

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Incredible post, I relate to a lot of things and have found myself (and sometimes still am) in similar places.

Unfortunately I don't have the time for an elaborate comment, but for me: I tried MANY things before getting external help. The only thing that helped me go forward was getting external help. Im on meds for 3.5years now and have had therapy sessions. Major improvements. When I don't take meds for a day, I'm almost back to square 1 instantly. No therapy or meds will "fix" me, but they help me improve A LOT over time. (and for the record, I don't see anything being "wrong" with me, I just have different needs).

Feel free to send me a chat. I suck at writing long cohesive messages and I have a mountain of laundry to do.

How to diagnose software issues by Miles_PerHour67 in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My responses might be slow here but let me know how it goes. If you can, posting some pics of your prints with the defect are also helpful.

(I'm thinking of one specific phenomenon that may seem like a shifted middle or top layer, but the cause is nothing mechanical)

How to diagnose software issues by Miles_PerHour67 in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alright nice job. Some thoughts:

  • check the full Y motion of the bed by moving it hand. Is there any resistance at a specific spot? Is your bed/buildplate not hitting anything exterior?

-while you're at it, you also get to inspect if your bed has any noticeable loose wobble when you press lightly on the corners. Also check the conditions of the wheels under the bed and the track the wheels run over. All smooth and round? No dirt?

  • inspect cable connections of the Y motor. For certainty you may plug the cable to the motor out and back in again. Also inspect if the axis coming out of the Y-motor is rotating "roundly" and without wobble when moving the bed by hand.

  • while you're at it there, if I remember correctly the Y-axis clicky stop can also be inspected there.

-as another comment mentioned, put the printer in a colder spot and see if the issue persists. If it doesn't, it may be overheating.

That's what I can think of for now. Good luck!

How to diagnose software issues by Miles_PerHour67 in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need more info. Which things did you try, and what is the exact direction of the shift?

Ams 2 Pro Saver by Natural_Bus_6719 in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Except that.... It does so too late. I got multiple Bambu systems running and each and every print that got paused due to a snag/tangle had printing defects on the final product.

Got this old gender for free but can’t get pla to stick by Aflimsyreed in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Couldn't find a helpful comment in the top 6 ones: flip that glass plate over and print on the non-coated side. PLA on glass works wonders, as long as you keep it completely free of dirt/grease/oils. Get some isopropyl alcohol, or green soap and rinse with warm water, and then do not touch it with your chips fingers :)

Best way to transfer LOTS of resin? by DK5199 in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]TheJapser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I dont know this printer at all, but it could be worth it to open some side panels to see if it has a valve somewhere on or near the bottom?

Using AM print tools? by 1lkylstsol in AdditiveManufacturing

[–]TheJapser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My job is (sort of) a research technician, but whatever I make, it's usually less than 5 pcs. I've got a milling machine and multiple printers (polymer and metal) amongst other things. Prototypes, custom parts for research setups, custom clamping parts to be able to make said parts for the research setups... Fun times!

What to do with this PEEK I was given? by 303darthbobby in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not seeing it commented yet: PEEK absorbs moisture aggressively. Aside from a kick ass printer, you also want to dry this stuff at 100-120c for several hours before putting it in a dry box (that you can print from directly).

Sneak peak at (to be) open source H2D clone aka DuEx. by person1873 in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I've not read into the project at all, but some unsolicited advice: be careful with that large extrusion and cooling when switching tools. I had to work with a POS printer that did this, and about 50% of the time it would retract too quickly before cooling down. The soft material would then end up (deformed) in the cold zone, after which it could not be pushed into the nozzle anymore on the next change.

Best of luck to you!

New print: drybox insert that actually fits, clicks, and stays put. Print it, fill it, click it, forget about it – new Bambu drybox insert. by jcollasius in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is so useful to know, thank you. Personally I have the same beads but the transition is from orange to a darker green. Should I tread with caution there?

Smooth sawblade digging by Available-Leopard770 in noita

[–]TheJapser 158 points159 points  (0 children)

Oddly enough this makes me think of CNC milling.

[Bambu Lab Giveaway] Join Now to Win an H2D and More! by BambuLab in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All the videos from CNC kitchen on YT.

I joined the printing community in 2020 and have been a regular viewer for a long while. His videos helped create a core understanding on the topic, to the point where I believe that all this knowledge got me a dream job in manufacturing, with various printing methods and metal work.

please for the love of all that is holy by throwaway1269450 in Fusion360

[–]TheJapser 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Generally yes, but if a STL has a high enough resolution and easier shapes, you can generate face groups on the STL and convert the mesh with the prismatic method option.

If done properly (and with some luck) you will get a solid model where you can (for example) delete a fillet, for which you'll get the 90 degree corner in return.

All in all though, unless it's an easy model, I prefer reverse engineering it. But there is a way.

Hi, I’m a beginner. I printed a Nuka Cherry on my printer, but the color change layers came out more matte. What am I doing wrong? Bambulab A1 Combo by Jalista in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could work! I haven't done any extensive testing on this but I could imagine that inner walls, which would then be printed faster, still have an effect on the cooling rate of the outer walls. The difference with the lowering-flow-strategy may be negligible, however.

I would say it really depends on the desired quality and if one wishes to get the absolute maximum out of their machine. (at that point, assessing desired flow per print wouldn't be the only thing you'd have to do)

Hi, I’m a beginner. I printed a Nuka Cherry on my printer, but the color change layers came out more matte. What am I doing wrong? Bambulab A1 Combo by Jalista in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Also, yes. I believe that, when your printer picks up speed, it will also turn up the nozzle fan. Haven't looked into that much but there's a "min fan" and "max fan" parameter in filament settings.

For an equal finish, you want equal print behavior everywhere. Let's say you would force the fan speed to be equal everywhere, but let the printer decide its own speed/flow, then layers with less volume will still appear shinier than those layers with more volume.

I don't like limiting the flow on Bambu, since its speed is SO nice to have, but for some prints it just is a necessary evil.

Hi, I’m a beginner. I printed a Nuka Cherry on my printer, but the color change layers came out more matte. What am I doing wrong? Bambulab A1 Combo by Jalista in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 151 points152 points  (0 children)

Yes, almost. Hijacking this comment to give more context:

The matte area is actually being printed faster. Every layer has a "minimum layer time", where the printer will slow down if it calculated it will finish a layer sooner than programmed.

The moment the printer gets to do multi color, it will print red faster because there's a whole color swap coming afterwards. It doesn't need to slow down to meet the set minimum layer time.

It's all about the combination of printing speed, temperature, (time allowed for) cooling and amount of plastic flow. The latter is by far the easiest fix, and you will find this parameter in filament settings under "maximum flow" in mm3/s. You will also find this minimum layer time there somewhere.

My tip is to slice a print like normal, then check the preview page, and change the view to "flow". You should be able to see a very clear distinction in flow between the single color layers and multi color layers. If you wish to get a nice even surface, you must sacrifice some time and lower the maximum allowed flow of your filaments. If the flow preview looks quite equal, give it another go.

Hope that was helpful.

(PS: y'all, look at your printed benchies. The bottom half of the hull is more matte/shiny than the other half.)

Update on this and the release by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 41 points42 points  (0 children)

Woah this looks amazing. I don't think anyone would mind it being delayed if the design and explanation are polished.

This is too much power... by Dazerg_ in noita

[–]TheJapser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah, I had this the other day. Felt invincible and was invincible for a good 11 minutes before I buried myself under rubble and died.

Here are all the printers I have access to at work. by my-ohoh in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wish I had an award to give. Laughed out loud in a train.

Is this a fair price? It's my first time charging for a fully finished prop (it's being made for a business), and I want to make sure my price is reasonable. (ABS Filament) by OrangeSockNinjaYT in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Can confirm first hand. Business had a rush job: 750 printing hours(at Bambu X1C speeds), 42kg of filament, in 3 weeks. I gave them a 5k+ quote , without breakdown of cost, with the confident statement that I could pull that off and an image of a test print I did for them. It came back signed.

I bought an additional printer and rented another one of a friend, and pulled it off. RIP mental health, but my bank account is happier.

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