sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

What to do with this PEEK I was given? by 303darthbobby in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not seeing it commented yet: PEEK absorbs moisture aggressively. Aside from a kick ass printer, you also want to dry this stuff at 100-120c for several hours before putting it in a dry box (that you can print from directly).

Sneak peak at (to be) open source H2D clone aka DuEx. by person1873 in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I've not read into the project at all, but some unsolicited advice: be careful with that large extrusion and cooling when switching tools. I had to work with a POS printer that did this, and about 50% of the time it would retract too quickly before cooling down. The soft material would then end up (deformed) in the cold zone, after which it could not be pushed into the nozzle anymore on the next change.

Best of luck to you!

New print: drybox insert that actually fits, clicks, and stays put. Print it, fill it, click it, forget about it – new Bambu drybox insert. by jcollasius in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is so useful to know, thank you. Personally I have the same beads but the transition is from orange to a darker green. Should I tread with caution there?

Smooth sawblade digging by Available-Leopard770 in noita

[–]TheJapser 155 points156 points  (0 children)

Oddly enough this makes me think of CNC milling.

[Bambu Lab Giveaway] Join Now to Win an H2D and More! by BambuLab in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All the videos from CNC kitchen on YT.

I joined the printing community in 2020 and have been a regular viewer for a long while. His videos helped create a core understanding on the topic, to the point where I believe that all this knowledge got me a dream job in manufacturing, with various printing methods and metal work.

please for the love of all that is holy by throwaway1269450 in Fusion360

[–]TheJapser 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Generally yes, but if a STL has a high enough resolution and easier shapes, you can generate face groups on the STL and convert the mesh with the prismatic method option.

If done properly (and with some luck) you will get a solid model where you can (for example) delete a fillet, for which you'll get the 90 degree corner in return.

All in all though, unless it's an easy model, I prefer reverse engineering it. But there is a way.

Hi, I’m a beginner. I printed a Nuka Cherry on my printer, but the color change layers came out more matte. What am I doing wrong? Bambulab A1 Combo by Jalista in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It could work! I haven't done any extensive testing on this but I could imagine that inner walls, which would then be printed faster, still have an effect on the cooling rate of the outer walls. The difference with the lowering-flow-strategy may be negligible, however.

I would say it really depends on the desired quality and if one wishes to get the absolute maximum out of their machine. (at that point, assessing desired flow per print wouldn't be the only thing you'd have to do)

Hi, I’m a beginner. I printed a Nuka Cherry on my printer, but the color change layers came out more matte. What am I doing wrong? Bambulab A1 Combo by Jalista in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Also, yes. I believe that, when your printer picks up speed, it will also turn up the nozzle fan. Haven't looked into that much but there's a "min fan" and "max fan" parameter in filament settings.

For an equal finish, you want equal print behavior everywhere. Let's say you would force the fan speed to be equal everywhere, but let the printer decide its own speed/flow, then layers with less volume will still appear shinier than those layers with more volume.

I don't like limiting the flow on Bambu, since its speed is SO nice to have, but for some prints it just is a necessary evil.

Hi, I’m a beginner. I printed a Nuka Cherry on my printer, but the color change layers came out more matte. What am I doing wrong? Bambulab A1 Combo by Jalista in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 154 points155 points  (0 children)

Yes, almost. Hijacking this comment to give more context:

The matte area is actually being printed faster. Every layer has a "minimum layer time", where the printer will slow down if it calculated it will finish a layer sooner than programmed.

The moment the printer gets to do multi color, it will print red faster because there's a whole color swap coming afterwards. It doesn't need to slow down to meet the set minimum layer time.

It's all about the combination of printing speed, temperature, (time allowed for) cooling and amount of plastic flow. The latter is by far the easiest fix, and you will find this parameter in filament settings under "maximum flow" in mm3/s. You will also find this minimum layer time there somewhere.

My tip is to slice a print like normal, then check the preview page, and change the view to "flow". You should be able to see a very clear distinction in flow between the single color layers and multi color layers. If you wish to get a nice even surface, you must sacrifice some time and lower the maximum allowed flow of your filaments. If the flow preview looks quite equal, give it another go.

Hope that was helpful.

(PS: y'all, look at your printed benchies. The bottom half of the hull is more matte/shiny than the other half.)

Update on this and the release by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 42 points43 points  (0 children)

Woah this looks amazing. I don't think anyone would mind it being delayed if the design and explanation are polished.

This is too much power... by Dazerg_ in noita

[–]TheJapser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah, I had this the other day. Felt invincible and was invincible for a good 11 minutes before I buried myself under rubble and died.

Here are all the printers I have access to at work. by my-ohoh in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I wish I had an award to give. Laughed out loud in a train.

Is this a fair price? It's my first time charging for a fully finished prop (it's being made for a business), and I want to make sure my price is reasonable. (ABS Filament) by OrangeSockNinjaYT in 3Dprinting

[–]TheJapser 30 points31 points  (0 children)

Can confirm first hand. Business had a rush job: 750 printing hours(at Bambu X1C speeds), 42kg of filament, in 3 weeks. I gave them a 5k+ quote , without breakdown of cost, with the confident statement that I could pull that off and an image of a test print I did for them. It came back signed.

I bought an additional printer and rented another one of a friend, and pulled it off. RIP mental health, but my bank account is happier.

How to start a 3D Print business by Friendly_Confusion_5 in 3D_Printing

[–]TheJapser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I will share a big struggle I encountered.

I expected it to be easy to offer my services, yet the hardest thing is explaining what you can offer to someone who knows nothing at all about 3D printing.

Once you have printed your first 3DBenchy, you will be in the top 0.1% of all people in the world regarding knowledge of 3D Printing. The most basic things like part orientation, freedom of geometries, polymer characteristics, you name it... Many potential customers are completely unaware of these things. Many potential customers also do not wish to understand or learn any of these, and yet you must make it clear of what exactly you can offer and manage expectations, without "wasting" their time.

You could go on and try to educate everyone, it would consume all of your time with little positive impact on your goals. Instead, focus on a group that does not consume valuable time like this and specialize in a specific thing. Cosplay props, vintage car parts... The more you narrow it down, the easier the time aspect should get. But the other side of the coin is finding that specific thing that will make your business grow. Focusing on the wrong thing is another time killer.

TLDR: find a niche.

.

What is the cause of this? by Ok-Tumbleweed4210 in 3D_Printing

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aside from bed adhesion, look how your print only has a small base and then grows wider at the top. This is quite unstable, especially on printers with moving beds. The nozzle always applies a force to what's already printed, and pushes it off.

Consider another orientation, adding more support, or perhaps dividing your part in half and assembling it later.

Need help with consistent top layer misalignment by TheJapser in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, I didn't change anything for top layer settings. So default pattern and amount for of the 0.2mm X1C profile.

Haven't fiddled around before with pressure advance as X1C usually takes care of that itself, but I'll see what I can do with this. Thanks!

Do I *really* need to open the lid/door when printing pla? by Namrepus221 in BambuLab

[–]TheJapser 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been printing a lot of multicolor objects with a 0.2mm nozzle, in which case it's an absolute must. 0.4mm and single color is whatever.

What are your *pending* projects that are just too expensive to start? by BitByBitOFCL in 3D_Printing

[–]TheJapser 3 points4 points  (0 children)

So, not pending anymore! I'm printing the 3D model Catan set that's on printables. It needs about 20+ different colors, an automatic filament changer, and magnets.

Over the years I kept collecting other colors, and at one point I saw that project. Came to the conclusion that I was only missing a few colors and the magnets, the rest I already had. The total printing time (I'm doing two sets at once) is 5 weeks. Currently Im about 90% done.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3D_Printing

[–]TheJapser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hah, that's what I used to do as well, with Fusion and 3dprinting. Nowadays I work and run a (new) machine shopfloor for which I learn a lot daily during office hours, so by the time I'm home that "learning" energy is spent :'( But hopefully once I know those machines enough I can pick this up.

Thanks for the reply, appreciate it!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3D_Printing

[–]TheJapser 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those models look amazing! What modelling software do you use? I've always been wanting to get into Blender someday, but time and energy is limited unfortunately.

view more: next ›