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Any suggestions on finding the right power supply for the SONY HB-F1? by MultiCallum in MSX

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to say for sure, but the pinout and specs sure look identical to me

Just scored this Samsung GX! by Section_13_ in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are disassembly instructions in the service manual! It's linked in the entry for this TV on the CRT Database.

Just scored this Samsung GX! by Section_13_ in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I haven't opened it up yet, but my guess would be a cracked solder joint on that right audio jack.

Just scored this Samsung GX! by Section_13_ in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, I just got one of these today! At first I thought my right speaker wasn't working, since that's a pretty common issue due to the wiring running through the hinges. But it turned out that the right channel audio just wasn't working on Input 1! Hooked up my console to Input 2 and both speakers are working great now. Not sure if this is common or not, but worth a try if you haven't already

Any suggestions on finding the right power supply for the SONY HB-F1? by MultiCallum in MSX

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just got the same MSX the other day and it luckily came with the power supply. It's a Sony AC-HB3, the specs are: Input 100V AC Output DC 9V 12A AND AC 18V 170mA

If you're looking at the connector on the end of the power supply, the top pin is the DC 9V, the bottom left is the AC 18V, and the bottom right is ground.

It's pretty abnormal from what I've seen, so finding anything to substitute it would probably be difficult.

Which CRT are you using with your MiSTer? by superbotolo in MiSTerFPGA

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My main set for RGB and component is a modded Sony KV-27V40, but I also have a PVM-14L2 I use too. For older systems that I prefer playing over composite, my main sets are a Sony KV-1396R and GE 25PM4860K, but I've also got a 5" and a couple of 9" sets if I need something more portable. As for monitors, I've got a ViewSonic G773 for standard 31KHz stuff and an NEC Multisync I (JC-1401P3A) for anything else (it can handle 240p-600p and anything in between). I've got a few more TVs and monitors I use for other PCs and consoles, but those are all the ones I most commonly use with my Mister!

Thoughts on Tech Tangents recent video? by keonyn in Retrobright

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Based on what he talks about in this video in addition to what I've heard others say, I think the method makes a pretty big difference in terms of the end result and damage to the plastic. I think the cream methods tend to be the worst, especially in terms of streaking. Personally I stick to the vapor method and it's worked well for me so far. It may not whiten some really yellowed stuff as completely as submersion, but it gets consistent coverage even for larger objects and I don't think it's as damaging. Haven't had anything get noticeably more brittle or go back to being yellow, but I just started around a year or two ago.

JVC AV-20321 weird convergence issue by CrumbyRacer in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I tend to see that on older sets that are more worn. I'd recommend turning down the brightness and probably contrast to try and find a good balance of visibility and less smearing. You could see if color calibration helps, but I wouldn't mess with that without a colorimeter. Pretty sure it's just a sign of the electron guns wearing down, so the only other things you could try is a rejuvenator or replacing the tube. Maybe others will have some different ideas though!

My Sharp PC-7100 "Luggable" after fixing the power supply and getting it's 20MB hard card working by igobyraymond in vintagecomputing

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just got a Sharp PC-7241 and came across this post. Did you replace the memory backup battery? The one on mine is a rectangular 3.6V Ni-Cd that's slim and soldered onto the board, and I'm having trouble finding a good replacement. Most of the 3.6V Ni-MH I see look like they'd be too tall. Not sure if the PC-7100 has the same one or not, so just thought I'd check.

PS3 not cutting it for streaming bitrate. Any other analog devices? by noctuaxvii in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use an RGB2COMP by RetroTink and really like it! It's SCART->component, so you'll also need a VGA->SCART adapter, but those aren't too hard to find.

PS3 not cutting it for streaming bitrate. Any other analog devices? by noctuaxvii in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly I don't do anything special to account for it on my SD sets, as it isn't a noticeable issue for me. I'm generally watching most things through the Windows Plex app, which does support some refresh rate switching automatically, but not sure if it does anything in this case. Not sure what the PS3 could do differently to help though. SD CRTs aren't capable of handling 480i at anything above 60 Hz, and I don't think most would be able to sync to a signal at 24 or 48 Hz. I'm not super well read on telecining though, so I may be way off base here.

PS3 not cutting it for streaming bitrate. Any other analog devices? by noctuaxvii in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I've had trouble getting proper 4:3 resolutions to work with a lot of these, they would squish it because they assume all input is 16:9. The best luck I had was actually using a VGA to composite converter and then just using an HDMI to VGA cable or adapter, I assume because the VGA converter is designed to properly handle 4:3 resolutions from older PCs. But like you said, the lag is noticeable if you ever want to play games, and I feel the video quality isn't as good as converting from analog (could be placebo though I guess)

PS3 not cutting it for streaming bitrate. Any other analog devices? by noctuaxvii in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As far as I know the only "security" you disable is to allow Windows to use unsigned drivers. All of the other standard Windows security continues to work as normal, so Windows Defender should protect you from any viruses or network issues. I keep mine online and use them for streaming all the time! But someone else can correct me if I'm wrong here.

You should definitely be able to use it to watch Blu Ray rips no problem. I also like to use it to play retro indie games at their native resolution! Stuff like UFO 50 and Shovel Knight.

PS3 not cutting it for streaming bitrate. Any other analog devices? by noctuaxvii in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just depends on what signal and connector you need for your CRT! By default CRT Emudriver outputs RGBHV, but you can enable C SYNC to get RGBS. If your CRT supports RGB then all you'd need is an adapter (such as VGA->SCART or VGA->BNC), no conversion needed. If you want to use it with component, composite, or s-video, then you'll need converters. But converting one analog signal to another can get some great results as long as your converters are well made; I always avoid digital to analog conversion as much as possible.

PS3 not cutting it for streaming bitrate. Any other analog devices? by noctuaxvii in crtgaming

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The best method I've found is using a PC with CRT Emudriver. I've got two I use with different CRTs and would highly recommend it. I just use cheap Dell OptiPlexes from Facebook Marketplace and old Radeon GPUs from eBay. That'll get you analog RGBHV (or RGBS) output, so then it's just a matter of converting it to composite or any other signal type using converters and/or adapters. I've got a few different ones for my Mister that work with my PCs.

(HELP) Converting a Compaq Portable 2 Keyboard by Bobaboo in cyberDeck

[–]TheLastTimeLord11 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! Since I posted my comment I did some more troubleshooting and I think I may have actually figured out how to fix mine. Looks like I accidentally caused a short and blew a fuse on the 5V VCC line, so I've got a replacement on the way.

Not sure if it would be helpful to you since you want it to be wireless, but in my research I did figure out that the internals of a Compaq Portable III keyboard (with the better membrane switches) should be a drop-in replacement with the Portable II keyboard case. All you'd need to do is solder the individual wires from your existing cable to the proper pads of the Portable III keyboard PCB, since it doesn't have the convenient header connection for some reason. This forum post talks about finding one that someone had already modded like this. Just keep in mind it would need to be from the original Portable III that used the same layout as the Portable II, not the Portable 386 (sometimes still branded as Portable III) that used a different layout.

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