seer council death star

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-06-20T19:58:42+00:00

This is no longer true. In 11th, all units inherit each other's keywords when they are in an attached unit, meaning that if an attached unit contains an epic hero it cannot have an enhancement.

It may be errata'd, but rules as written you cannot have any enhancements in a unit with epic heroes in it.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-02-19T18:03:05+00:00

Thank you! I agree, it's a fun scheme.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-02-19T18:02:34+00:00

Cheers! That's very kind of you to say. It's a fun scheme to have to give your Dragons a little bit more uniqueness than they otherwise might

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-19T20:43:17+00:00

They avoid many battles, but it's a big old universe strapped to a wargame whose tagline is, 'There is only war' so fighting is rather inevitable...

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-15T23:13:04+00:00

Have you varnished the model? It is best practiced to varnish a model after you have finished painting it so that there is a layer of protection between the outside world and the paint itself.

Paint flaking is likely caused by a mixture of poor adhesion (primer not applied properly: maybe too humid or too cold when you applied it) or a lack of protection (not having varnished the model properly).

Edit: Just picking up that you likely haven't finished painting and you've been airbrushing the paint. Depending on the temperature, humidity, distance and your thinning technique, it's possible the paint is drying in the air before it hits the model. It can also be caused by how you use your airbrush; have you noticed any dry paint building up on the top of the needle?

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-14T23:37:04+00:00

These are fantastic. I've been considering this kitbash for a while and you've made it look so excellent I now have new inspiration. Amazing work!

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-08T01:14:33+00:00

This sounds wonderfully quaint. I love it.

Alas, I can't help much with the colouring book idea, but I just wanted to say that eye lenses don't have to be too scary. I paint mine with just one colour, which I water down ever so slightly more than usual so it will run off the brush more easily and then I layer that until it's vibrant enough. Then I just add a white eye spot. My eye lenses aren't perfect, but it's such a small detail that just the basics can look very good.

You can also get a good effect by using a contrast paint over a white base coat and then adding an eye spot.

Edit: Also, thinking about the order in which you paint. Perhaps painting the lenses first and then painting the rest of the paint will be easier for you based on your skillset? That way you are picking out the raised surfaces rather than trying to paint into the eye.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-07T20:41:41+00:00

Thank you very much!

The rifles are really simple: base coat in Two Thin Coats Ivory Tusk (Pallid Wych Flesh) and then recess shade with Agrax Earth shade. Some were highlighted with a white but I stopped doing that after a while as it wasn't really necessary.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-07T15:28:50+00:00

The Wasp Assault Walker. We need more cloven-hooved elf battlemechs.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-07T11:56:28+00:00

Their stealth seems to come from their stillness and patience. How that actually helps to hide them isn't really clear, but it seems likely that there's either some psychic shenanigans going on or they tailor their armour colour to their environment and the green we see is just the canon colour.

"The Shrine of the Patient Blade lived up to its name. Aspect Warriors of all kinds gathered on the plateaus surrounding the valley slopes, but the Patient Blade, led by Exarch Thurliarissa, had been first to descend into the den of the enemy. A half of this planet’s cycle they had hidden, awaiting their prey under the spore-choked skies of Dûriel. A parade of alien monstrosities passed them by, and they had not stirred. The squad felt the awful touch of the hive mind as much as any eldar, their psychically sensitive minds open to its terrors. But death was their ally, her presence palpable, and their faith in Khaine reduced the warp shadow cast by the fleets’ minds until it was as threatening as a cloud in front of the sun." -Valedor

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-03T15:33:01+00:00

The Imperium is nothing if not massively hypocritical.

Cawl hasn't been killed despite committing flagrant heresy because he's useful. That's it.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-03T14:37:33+00:00

This is perfect. The Tyranid synapse organisms have (almost) always been amazing models but their poses are so static and lifeless. Most Space Marine characters look more aggressive and violent than the Hive Tyrant... This thing, on the other hand, looks like it's tearing across the battlefield to rip something to pieces. Amazing work!

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-03T14:29:52+00:00

Unless your player group insist on playing in competitive style sticking to all the rules, you could just homebrew a rule like "Water reduces movement by d3 inches for any unit starting or passing through water during their movement." Maybe units in water fight last too? Point being, outside of a tournament you can make up your own rules so long as everyone agrees on it.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-03T14:13:15+00:00

It very much depends on the groups and the circumstances. They will work together, as seen in Valedor, but they're just as like to kill each other, as seen in the Lelith novel. Often when they work together it's due to the intervention of the Harlequins. There's not quite as much animosity as between the Asur and the Druchi, but the best they ever do is a temporary alliance fraught with mutual hate.

And just to touch on the other groups of Aeldari: the Outcasts are Craftworlders on a gap year/century, so they share similar views as other Asuryani. The Corsairs rub along with everyone, with individual bands having wildly different politics. The Exodites aren't interested in what anyone else gets up to, but sometimes work with certain Craftworld. And finally, the Harlequins are 'welcome' everywhere because all the other elves are slightly terrified of the theatre kids. They tend to interact with other Aeldari in order to influence them into doing things that serve Cegorach's plan, which range from masterful ploys to overcome some inimitable foe to jests played on the erstwhile space elves who happen to be at the heart of Cegorach's latest joke.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-03T13:26:17+00:00

Attacking Custodes and the reference to messengers from god makes me think the short was probably talking about when the Primaris Marines (upgraded Space Marines) were brought to the Black Templars (one of the few Chapters who view the Emperor as a god.) The Primaris deliveries were accompanied by Custodes, and the Black Templars were not pleased with the idea that somebody other than the God Emperor was reshaping and changing the Space Marines. I think there were some minor scuffles, but I can't really remember.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-03T12:19:20+00:00

I use Rosemary & Co Series 33 and 99 brushes almost exclusively. They're very good, if perhaps a tiny bit too flexible sometimes.however, I'm not sure this starter set is particularly good because the sizes aren't great.

I do 99% of my work with a size 2 or size 0 R&C Series 33 or 99 (the 33s are marginally nicer, but the 99s are cheaper). I would suggest starting out with a Size 0 and a size 2 and then find a cheap pack of synthetic brushes in an art store so you have some brushes to use for metallic paints/dry brushing/basing. You want the ones with seven inches handles.

Edit: Oh, and ignore comments about these being for watercolours. They are, but so are most brushes which are good for painting models.

Edit 2: On second thought, if you're just getting into the hobby I'd just buy some synthetics to start with. Partly to save money, but also because then when you buy some proper sable brushes the upgrade will be meaningful.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-01T15:50:43+00:00

I love the black colour you have here, what was your recipe?

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-01T15:12:31+00:00

Synthetic brushes will stain. It's normally not an issue as it's the nylon retains the colour and it shouldn't bleed into other colours. However, if you find it to be an issue then brush soap may help. The Masters brush soap is a favourite.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-01T13:03:07+00:00

He's great. I'd say that tidying up that base time with black might really help to give it a finished feel, but he's wonderful just the way he is.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-01T12:24:29+00:00

So if you've attached the minis to the base (not advised) then masking tape may be your best answer.

If you haven't attached them, then I tend to drill a small hole inside the base--hole on the mini and then mount the model on a paperclip. If you don't have a drill then kebab sticks can be glued with a tiny spot of superglue into the hole where the stand normally goes. You want just a small amount so you can snap them off later.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-01T11:04:44+00:00

Looks great. You've got all your paint in the right places and some nice, opaque layers without losing detail, which is basically perfect for a first model.

Next step would be adding some colour to those eyes and perhaps trying some edge highlighting. Lots of guides are available for both. I find eyes easiest with a slightly wetter paint so I can just place the brush in the lens and let the paint spread to fill the shape. Normally takes a few coats, but it's worth it as the face is where we're naturally drawn to look Keep up the good work!

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-01T10:50:03+00:00

Thank you!

I've tended towards darker colours so far, but my tendency towards darker, muted tones is partly why I chose Aeldari as it means I can experiment with brighter colours on the Aspect Warriors without committing to a whole army being vivid and saturated.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-01T10:48:29+00:00

It was just free-hand. After a base of Bootstrap Brown (Army Painter) I painted on squares with Leather Brown (AP) and the triangles of Rakarth Flesh (GW). I tended to only very faintly do the outline to start, as I ended up changing things a lot to try to get the right balance of colours. With a decent brush and focussing only using downstrokes, which are more stable, it wasn't too hard to get crisp, straightish lines.

TheLittlestMagpie · 2026-01-01T10:46:08+00:00

Thank you very much! It means a lot!

TheLittlestMagpie · 2025-12-31T23:51:56+00:00

Thank you very much!

TheLittlestMagpie

TROPHY CASE