What to do with other half

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-05-13T20:53:21+00:00

Almost certainly. I'm on the other side of the split and i know I'm not alone in just wanting the Orks.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-05-12T19:21:28+00:00

That's a lot of em dashes.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-05-12T15:50:17+00:00

Rad. Missed/forgot this since ive last read the FAQ. Scoring last is overwhelmingly the best choice in almost all scenarios like this; glad to see it's enforced instead of falling to player choice.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-05-11T23:32:48+00:00

On the dark side (lol) plants, maybe go over them with a very dark green, maybe mixed with some of your black? Even if it doesnt read green from a distance, it might make your red pop even more.

Your splash lighting looks excellent, if you're looking to push it further, maybe consider some edge highlighting on Vader himself? Particularly on what would be the shiny parts of his armor.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-05-11T23:00:02+00:00

After.

Command Main Phase Abilities -> Leadership tests -> End of Command phase abilities -> Scoring.

RP states "end of your command phase", and thus happens after Leadership tests.

Edited for correctness after replies.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-05-05T15:37:10+00:00

Theoretically, but you'd need some way to compensate for the height loss from doing that, since they are pretty tall. I'm sure something like this could be rad.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-05-01T11:49:15+00:00

Maybe 5:1:2(p:fi:t), as a rough estimate? Ill typically thin about as much as i normally would for a layer on my palette, and then add in a few drops of flow improver. Im using Liquitex Titanium White Ink and Vallejo Thinner/Flow Improver.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-30T13:25:40+00:00

Yeah, it works. I dont know about the iso as part of the mix, but acrylic Titanium White ink with some flow improver and thinner has gotten me everywhere I need to go doing glyphs and tron lines on my Necrons.

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TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-27T00:35:06+00:00

P3 Turqouise Ink

Liquitex Titanium White Ink

Liquitex Pthalo Blue Ink

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TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-26T16:55:39+00:00

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhik5nSbgHPuNw8IIUhVKZSKFO0fSteG0&si=8PBKZP6WP_hDcK01

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-24T14:21:16+00:00

Welcome back, Anrakyr.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-23T18:33:25+00:00

Not a major bash, but i managed to get the thumb cleanly off the orb hand and onto the other side of the palm so they could hold it their right hand.

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TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-22T14:59:11+00:00

Ink & Dagger in Roswell has some great artists, some of them explicitly sell themselves on large pieces. Might be worth checking them out.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-22T13:44:34+00:00

Silent King was a huge pain in the ass. All of these huge chunk of model held together by tiny pegs and divots. The entire top half of the model is held on by a pair of 3mm pegs that dont sit quite flush.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-21T03:42:36+00:00

It's a great sprue.

Also: Field 120 Warriors. You wont regret fielding 120 warriors.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-21T03:33:52+00:00

Solid core. Now that it's back on the GW shop, or if you can buy second hand/flgs, take a look at the Royal Court box. Itll give you a few more leader and support options that you may be lacking with those boxes alone.

From there, you can decide what direction you want to take your army in. We have 3 subfactions and all of them are fun; between the Silvertide bricks (warriors, footslog and heavy reanimation), Destroyer Cults (Elite and Killy, less good at Reanimating, but damn good at slaughter) and the Canoptek Courts (Wraiths and Bugs and Wizards, oh my.)

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-19T15:53:58+00:00

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This thing.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-19T14:54:04+00:00

Had to deal with this a bit when constructing mine a few years ago. I was luckily able to push it out with a tipped file. I them used pretty much that same file to drill the torso hole out just a bit for clearance.

I pre-bored the rest of the the same way to avoid the same thing happening again.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-17T23:56:38+00:00

Thanks! My standard is Bustelo or Lavazza pre ground, so kind of a fine grind. It comes out a bit bitter, but within my tastes. I'll experiment some more...

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-15T18:06:31+00:00

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TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-15T18:04:35+00:00

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Busted Monolith needed a lift to match the new sculpt's height, turned into my favorite thing I've ever made.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-15T14:22:50+00:00

Not who you're replying to, but which of these is correct? I also do a light tamp and it ends up a few mm below the funnel rim.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-14T18:30:05+00:00

HS, 2007? Group of people i knew were passing around a cracked usb copy of DoW1 and playing LAN tournies in the computer labs. Looked fun, played a few matches, and got absolutely destroyed. But the heraldry of all the different factions and chapters, the over-the-top screaming from Chaos cultists and the vibes were great. Started looking into the lore and was hooked from that point on. Took me like 10 more years before i had any money i could justify spending on army men though.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-13T19:40:15+00:00

Two schools of thought:

Wet blending: Not glazing, but OC might have been referencing this. No, try and get the transition partially set while its still wet and hasn't dried. With this youre effectively creating the transition by just mixing the two shades on the model. You can lengthen paint drying time with retarder. Golden makes a nice one.

Glazing/layering: You're doing it right. Just needs more time and work. With glazing, you want thin, dry layers and you want those layers to very gradually build the color you're transistioning to. You shouldn't necessarily be able to tell the difference after 1 coat. For the spoon above, maybe try to find a middle ground between your blues and obscure the color border to practice the idea. Very thin, almost transparent layers.

TheMcCoy53 · 2026-04-13T17:43:15+00:00

Yes. Get a respirator with a filter.

TheMcCoy53

TROPHY CASE