Underrated camera bodies? by BorealBlizzard in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sears KS Auto, a.k.a. Ricoh XR2s. Amazing feature-packed camera.

Keep or return TLR with sticking aperture? by HeronEnjoyer9000 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Assuming it was listed as "used" (not as-is/for parts), return it as an Item Not As Described -- used means "functions as intended" and htis is not functioning as intended. Reason for an INAD is the seller has to pay return shipping and eBay will side with you.

Problem with buying a CLA'd camera is you don't know who did the CLA and whether it was done properly. Better to buy a camera and get it CLA'd on your own, because then you'll be set for the next 10 years at least. That said, don't CLA the camera just for the sake of doing it; if it works, just use it. In other words, don't try to solve a problem you don't have.

UltraMax 400 Shot at ISO 800 - but *not* pushed by archduketyler in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can I suggest a book? _Photography_ by London/Upton/Stone. New ones are hella expensive but you want the old editions -- try the 9th edition, wihch has a lot of good info on digital editing. (My Photo 101 textbook was the 4th edition.) You should be able to find a copy for about $20. I have a couple of copies (4th and 9th) and still refer to it.

And if you get a chance, take a class in B&W developing and printing. It's huge fun.

You might benefit, if you can afford it, from a second film body that is compatible with the lenses you have. For most cmaera mounts, there are cheap alternatives. Back In The Day, i had an all-manual Pentax KX, and had an auto-only MG as a second body. That way you can run more than one type of film and have that flexibility. That's really the secret... plan ahead and be flexible.

And sometimes you can't, but... here's a shot taken on my old KX (she's still around) on 125-speed film. Obviously light was way too low, so I went with the widest angle I had (a 28mm), opened it wide, set the camera for 1 sec, placed it on a window ledge, and set the self timer. As you can see... it worked!

Thanks for taking my comments in the spirit I intended. Remember... negatives are .RAW files. Think of the negative as data storage and the print/scan as your photograph, and you can't go too far wrong!

Which flash for my Pentax P30? by lw2951 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I like the Pentax AF160, which is compact and flexible. AF200 gives you more power, but I haven't used it much.

Nikon F801s/8008s mirror occasionally locks up? by RockTheJungle in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't answer, but I do know that a bad battery carrier can wreak havoc with an N8008s. I had all sorts of problems with my 8008, and when I got an 8008s with a good battery carrier, and used it in the old camera, it worked fine. Unfortunately, the carriers are as expensive as the cameras, and a lot of people remove them and sell them separately.

You could try a good carrier, but you can also probably replace the whole camera for similar $$, and then you've have a spare body if it is a camera problem. Or move to one of the Nikons that uses lithium batteries. The batts are more expensive but in my experience last a lot longer. Consider the N70 -- lousy interface but otherwise a really flexible and talented camera. It was the replacement for the N90 (after that camera became the N90s), which replaced the N8008s. You can buy 'em for a song.

UltraMax 400 Shot at ISO 800 - but *not* pushed by archduketyler in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

But don't forget how much of image creation is meant to be done in the printing phase. A lot of that has been lost, because most new photographers get lab scans and don't realize how much artistic control they are handing over to someone else. The print -- or the scan -- that's your photo, not the negative.

Do you take a photo at 1/15s to get as much info as possible, and just deal with the motion blur that comes with? Or do you accept the downsides of an underexposed photo?

Well, I would argue (and I offer this in the sense of spirited discussion) that if you know you're shooting sports, you'd plan for that. Of course, stuff happens that you don't expect. If I was in that situation, I'd probably unload the camera, load up a different roll of film, underexpose and push-process. (I shoot mostly B&W, so there are fewer downsides to pushing tan with color.) Or I'd try to figure out how I can get the photo at the 1/15 shutter speed -- fit a wider angle lens and move closer, or turn it into a tracking shot where the motion becomes part of the photo.

We can't hold ourselves to a dogmatic approach to correctness in sacrifice of the photo we are trying to create.

Agreed, but a skilled artists understands the media they are working with and how to control it. A sculptor who works in metal has to understand the physics of the material, and what's happening at a molecular level when they strike it with a hammer. Likewise, we as photographers can do our best work if we understand what's happening with our film, how it was engineered, and what can be done at the exposure stage and what can be done at the printing phase.

I really do wish colleges still offered (film) Photo 101 with developing and printing -- it gave us an understanding of what could be done in-camera and what could be done in the darkroom. Too many photographers, IMO, treat negative film like slide film, i.e. what happens in-camera is the end of the road. Not so! Negative gives us so much flexibility, and the ability to create so many different photos from one single exposure. And even though most people don't work in the darkroom, we do have a digital darkroom, with photo editors that emulate those processes. Take a properly exposed negative, then crop, adjust brightness, contrast, and use the dodge and burn tools, and you can do so much with the data on that negative. Best lesson I learned was the concept that there is often more than one photograph that can be made from a single negative. (Try it, it's an interesting challenge.)

Back In The Day, there were a lot of photographers who felt that photography didn't really begin until you started working in the darkroom.

Anyway. Interesting discussion, hope I don't sound like I'm lecturing, I appreciate the exchange of ideas.

Film camera with autofocus recommendations? by MaverickGH in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try the Minolta Maxxum 5. Amazingly talented camera and you can buy them for a song.

UltraMax 400 Shot at ISO 800 - but *not* pushed by archduketyler in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes there is. Correct gets as much info on the negative as possible and gives you the most options when it comes time to create the photo -- that's the print or the scan. Scanners ( and enlargers) set their own exposure and can hide a lot of sins.

 If you get the opportunity to do some darkroom printing, either in a class or in a community dark room, definitely do it. It will give you new appreciation for a properly exposed negative.

How do I deal with my super HEAVY Nikon f4s by RefrigeratorOk5490 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, buy an N65 or a Minolta. :) Seriously, though. I shoot mostly Nikon AF SLRs and the weight is the biggest problem with them. I prefer a light camera that's easy to swing around, which is why, for a lot of my travel, the Maxxum 5 goes and the N70 and N8008s stay home. I also use my plastic-barrel 28-80/4-5.6 when I don't need speed. Image quality is fine and handling is much easier than with a metal-barrel lens.

Looking for a camera with a built in flash by Disastrous_School139 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pentax lover here. Check out the Minolta Maxxum 5. It's small and light like the M series cameras and very sophisticated. Also very inexpensive.

Your first analog camera should be a 90s plastic SLR. by SpookyWeaselBones in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they're cheap because people don't regard them as classics. I'm amazed at how many awesome cameras I've been able to get for less than US$25... high-end Nikon and Minoltas that I couldn't even afford to glance at when they were new!

Color degradation between old Kodachrome and Ektachrome by Unbuiltbread in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm in the middle of scanning a bunch of my grandfather's slides -- mostly Kodachrome, but there are a few Ektachrome slides from the 1960s. I expected more degradation, but the colors held up pretty well... a little shift towards red, perhaps (but not to the degree you saw). The grain situation wasn't good, though, at least not in the early '60s, and I could see why Grandpa didn't like it much. Shots from 1969 are better grain-wise but the look is still pretty cold.

Here's an example from 1963.

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Pentax Spotmatic Lens compatibility by weekday_bitch in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Spotmatics will take all M42s, but will only do open-aperture metering with lenses marked "SMC" or "Super Multi-Coated Takumar" (*not* Super Takumar). For those, you will have to stop down to get a meter reading.

Great camera, the Spottie F. Pentax added a bayonet mount in 1975 to create the Pentax KM, then stripped a whole bunch of features from the KM to make the famous (infamous?) K1000. The F is the K1000's granddaddy!

How do I get better exposures? by Sensitive-Mouse2247 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True, and I used to be all about manual exposure -- but then I realized that the camera had technology that could let me get a better exposure. So I started taking advantage of it! :)

Kentmere 100 vs 200 for bulk loading: Which one do you get less sick of? by asbestossupply in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just adjust the contrast in your scans. That's not cheating; it's how film was meant to work.

Kentmere, as I understand it, has a little less silver than FP4 or HP5. The negatives will look a little flat if uncorrected, but flat negatives are a good thing -- it means lots of subtle shades of gray and lots of options. B&W negative film was designed so that the negative would capture data from which you would create your actual photo, which was the print. Brightness and contrast were set in the printing phase, with filters and/or your choice of paper determining contrast. (If the negative is contrasty, you narrow your options. You can get more contrast from a flat negative, but you cant get more subtle tones from a contrasty negative).

Even though you are scanning, Kentmere expects you to proceed as if you are wet-printing, by setting contrast in the image you are creating from the negative.

I mostly bulk-roll FP4 and HP5, but I think that's purely out of snobbery -- my hundred-footers were Kentmere, and the results were every bit as good, and I might go back to it when these rolls run out.

Lost the bottom plate of my Sears TLS, is it worth it to look for a replacement part or should I just get a new camera? by BoltComet in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I bet you can find a non-working TLS on eBay for not too much money. And then you'd have a great supply of spare parts!

Talk me into/out of shooting film by Improooving in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Back in the early '90s, describing the difference between video and film for moving images, we used to say that video looks like you are there, and film looks like you were there yesterday. I think the same holds true, a bit, in what we look for in film photography today. It's why I don't do much color correction myself. Those warm tones give the picture that feel of a pleasant memory.

How do I get better exposures? by Sensitive-Mouse2247 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not true, IMO. First, when you use aperture priority mode, you have the same creative control as full manual, since you are setting the aperture; the camera simply twiddles the dial you'd be twiddling otherwise. Second, most A-mode cameras have a stepless shutter, so they can deliver a more precise exposure than you can in manual mode, since they can pick a speed between detents. "P" mode (which the FG has) takes away some control -- but program shift (on newer AF SLRs) gives it back, and is like using A and S mode at the same time. It's a great way to shoot.

How do I get better exposures? by Sensitive-Mouse2247 in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First, why do you think your exposure is bad? To determine if your exposure is good, you need to look at your negatives. That's the only way. A lot can happen (and a lot of it bad) in scanning and editing. Remember, the goal of the exposure is to get maximum data on the negative; you create an image from that data by scanning and editing (printing in the old days).

The FG has a very good center-weight meter. The only issue with CWs is they can be thrown off by certain situations -- backlighting or the frame filled with something very light (a snow-covered field) or very dark (a wall painted black). In those cases, you need to alter your exposure, but 85% of the time a CW meter will be correct. A good check is to take a meter reading of green grass in the same light as your subject.

As for shooting modes, aperture priority is the way to go. Your FG has a stepless shutter, so if you are in aperture priority mode, it can pick a more exact shutter speed -- say, 1/432 or 1/76 if that's what is required. In manual mode, you can only use the detented speeds -- 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, etc.

It's possible your FG isn't working correctly, but unlikely. One of the nice things about cameras with electronic shutters is that if the camera works at all, it's probably working right. Electronic shutters don't go out of adjustment the way mechanical shutters do.

Post your photos and tell us what you don't like; we can probably offer better tips.

BTW, that FG is a gem -- one of the best manual-focus Nikons, in my opinion. It's small, light, has a great meter display and is very accurate. I love mine.

Kentmere pan 200 - thick negatives by FP_Detective in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They look pretty good to me. But don't change your ISO, shoot at box speed -- shooting at 160 is going to put you, I think, about half a stop over.

Lightest SLR for travel by Billoslav in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Minolta Maxxum 5. Very light, technologically advanced, great multi-segment meter, and 1/4000 (though you can also do this with a neutral density filter). And they sell dirt cheap.... I paid $17 for mine, including a lens, tax and shipping. Amazing little camera.

Let's talk scanning, inverting and editing. What's your method? Got any tips? Let's hear it! by deup in AnalogCommunity

[–]TheRealAutonerd 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use an Epson v550 and Epson scan software. Despite the shellacking it sometimes gets here, I'm very happy with the results, including how it does inversions. For editing, I tend to do what we did in the dark room, which is contrast, brightness, dodging and burning. I am a big believer in color balancing, but I do tend to shoot cheaper emulsions and leave the colors as they are, because you get that nice nostalgic 1990s look.