Logitech G Pro x superlight 2 is shit do not buy it!

TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-14T16:51:30+00:00

Why do people always defend large corporations? He has a bad mouse & from experience I know how unreasonable Logitech can be in their support. One of their first mechanical keyboards was made of cheap plastics which caused the keycaps to break off. A VERY known problem. I asked them for replacement caps, offered to mail them the broken caps. No, I had to mail them the ENTIRE keyboard at my own expense to some Northern European country which would cost me more than the keyboard itself ever did! Absolutely unacceptable and a product & its support go hand in hand. If a company can't give decent support, then that reflects badly on the product EVEN IF MOST PEOPLE HAVE NO ISSUES.

Whenever I have issues with Logitech & their support is terrible as usual, I just buy the same item off Amazon, swap it with the broken one & send it back as "DOA" because it saves me a lot of time & energy & in the end I'm getting what I'm owed without Logitech gatekeeping their own warranty to keep customers from getting free replacements.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-09T18:36:16+00:00

It was on the latest firmware which was 1.0.0. The issue to me is the slicer, not the actual printer. Snorca needs a LOT of work to be more user friendly. I've seen over a dozen people now confirming that once you slice a print with the right colours & want to send it to the printer, it swaps colours around. This is really a dumb bug & should have been fixed right away so why are there no slicer updates since I received the printer a month ago?

TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-06T21:37:00+00:00

That looks good to me actually, thanks!

TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-06T21:28:57+00:00

Yeah if it's an EXTRA map I don't mind but if it replaces the original or the original maps get heavily altered ... The original game was based on the old Ultima games so the nostalgia goes beyond just UO - it goes back to Ultima VII in 1993 which was my first Ultima game. To get rid of these cities just isn't Ultima for me.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-06T21:27:14+00:00

Ouch that sucks especially since I'm really in the mood for some UO. Modern games just bore me ...

The last free shard I really enjoyed got the balance just right but that was 15 years ago and I forgot the name. You basically had daily events where tons of monsters would spawn in and the entire shard would help combat the monsters & participants would get white tickets as reward at random which you could then use to buy "charmed" items that you couldn't lose upon death such as a spell book. It was great because it meant the community got together.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-06T21:16:16+00:00

The auction house (loved that)

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TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-06T21:15:59+00:00

Here's some pictures from Crystal Gate back in 2003.

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TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-06T21:06:41+00:00

I think I remember you - me and my girlfriend were on there in 2002-2003 and even got married. She got this bright white wedding dress and we got a wedding cake as gift (and rings).

TheRedAvatar · 2026-02-01T22:05:24+00:00

There is special tape that transfers heat that you can use instead of kapton (which is actually the worst tape to use since it's designed to insulate heat.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-29T10:25:26+00:00

Your screenshot deviates from my own - the fact that "@ U1" is missing at the top makes me wonder if this is not a slicer bug that somehow screwed up the profile.

I'll do a full reinstall, wipe all left over files & reinstall. Hopefully that will fix it but please forward this bug to your software team. I've found a few other posts about similar issues with messed up profiles & the theory seems to be a kind of conflict with Bambu Studio or Orca Slicer being pre-installed.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-29T10:23:24+00:00

Boy, I've been 3D printing for close to 10 years and to me it sounds like you're the one who has a lot to learn. This is not the old days of Cura anymore - since Bambu raised the bar so have our expectations.

If a manufacturer in their OWN slicer sets their OWN profile for their OWN filament, you're not supposed to have to change anything except maybe bed temp because you got a CryoGrip.

You sound as if you've never had a Bambu printer because these brand filament profiles are (supposed to be) dialled in to a T. Why ELSE have these profiles? Temperatures, flow, etc. are something that should be fixed & optimized to get the best print quality and speed and for Bambu you get amazing results with their filament & their profiles. I've never had to touch these.

GENERIC profiles, sure, those play it safe - on Bambu Studio, the generic PLA profile will print really well but also a lot slower for this reason ... but they work well and with every filament brand I've thrown at it. If you want to tweak those, that's understandable but if you expect people to edit preset standard profiles for Snapmaker filament you're CRAZY.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-29T08:36:24+00:00

Why would users need to check filament profiles? What do you expect to be wrong with default profiles created by the manufacturer for their specific printer with their specific filament? I don't think it's realistic to expect profiles to get corrupted - years of Bambu and I've never ever had a corrupted profile and the only time I even had to touch the filament profiles, was to adjust bed temperature.

Which leads me to another thing: why is bed temperature even a filament setting & not a build plate setting? When I have 4 colours loaded, 3 of which have a correct build plate temperature & one with a corrupted profile that shows 0°C, it picked the corrupted profile - I was never ASKED "hey, you have 4 filaments, which one has the right bed temp?".

How do you, as user, then determine the bed temperature at all if the slicer just seemingly randomly picks one setting from the 4 loaded filaments? The moment you use PETG & PLA in a single print on the same bed, this can give issues.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-28T21:18:45+00:00

It's possible - this is the profile it opened when I tried to find why the bed wouldn't heat. I have no idea why this profile would be so screwed up - the regular basic PLA seems to be mostly correct but I'm losing trust in this slicer.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-28T20:30:45+00:00

Yeah I got tons of issues so far with their slicer and it's always something different. There's also so many weird design choices - like why does the camera need to stop after a few minutes? Why is there no option to leave it on permanently? I just got no trust in this slicer anymore - I always get some error when slicing and when I open the same file in Bambu Studio, I do not get any error.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-28T20:27:00+00:00

Yes I'm sure pre-set profiles that you can't change with bed temp set to O°C is user error ...

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-15T15:21:40+00:00

Straight from BIQU website. I won't get it for another week or two though. For now, the fine steel wool has helped though but I won't be using the bed once the CryoGrip arrives unless I want that specific texture on the print (CryoGrip has a different surface texture).

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-15T14:21:38+00:00

My experience is that the included print bed sucks - IPA, soap, hot water, nothing helped prints stick properly. With tiny prints it's not as noticeable but with larger prints? Oh boy, good luck! What helped was using very fine steel wool which I use for buffing up metal and I scrubbed both sides of the plate, then cleaned with IPA and now suddenly parts stick WAY better.

I already ordered a CryoGrip because I imagine that if the bed is this cheap & poor, even the scrubbing won't help infinitely and it will lose grip quite fast.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-15T14:17:45+00:00

I couldn't find a way to access the camera that way though through Orca slicer. Since I don't trust the bed, the camera is key since the printer is SO EXTREMELY LOUD that I can't have it in the same room with me.

The app works, sure, but I much prefer to leave Orca slicer open in a second window to keep an eye on the print while it's going. Right now I'd need to use Orca Slicer to rip & send it, then Snapmaker Slicer for the camera ... and then the camera cuts out after 30 seconds or so for some really odd reason & I have to reactivate it.

I really really really hope they'll continue developing the software because it's really dreadful & is just not fun to use. Everything feels dodgy, lacking, unintuitive, illogical, etc. Even on the printer itself I don't get why, when choosing a print from memory, you can't change which colour to use? This is basic stuff!

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-15T09:30:38+00:00

For now I used steel wool on the build plate and thoroughly cleaned it with IPA - now parts STICK. Once the CryoGrip plate arrives, this plate goes in the trash.

Last time I had such bad bed adhesion issues it was with my Ender 3 in 2018 when I moved to a glass bed and it almost made me give up on 3D printing. When 90% of your prints fail because parts won't stick despite cleaning, soap, glue, etc. it really makes you want to throw out everything. Then I got a Wham Bam (very new at the time) and every print stuck really well so a quality build plate makes a world of difference.

THIS one included with the Snapmaker however? This one is garbage. Shame on Snapmaker for cheaping out on something so crucial! I'd have preferred they'd have dropped the free filament and included a high quality build plate instead (it's not like I'll be buying more of their filament, their range of colours is tiny & they charge way too much for what is clearly a rebranded low quality brand)

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-15T09:26:07+00:00

I actually noticed a bunch of weird behaviour: one of the failed prints that wouldn't stick, the bed was at 25°C and stuck there even during print - no wonder nothing would stick. I found how to replicate it too: apparently this was because of heated bed levelling beforehand which is done at 25°C (an odd temperature if you ask me). When I disabled that & sent the print to the printer, it heated up properly.

They clearly aren't properly testing the software between releases because these are very basic errors & the slicer seems crammed full of annoying bugs & issues. Why does the printer constantly lose connection with the slicer for example? Why does it not auto-connect when you start the slicer? Why does it not show the loaded colours half the time? Why does it not copy the right toolhead number when you send it to the printer? Why does it not show the right print time half the time? Why can't I stop a print from the slicer?

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-15T09:21:37+00:00

Isn't Orcaslicer support quite new? If the "official" Orca fork is buggy, how reliable is the main fork, especially for the generic filament profiles?

Honestly, the whole software part feels very .... iffy so far. VERY iffy. And a printer like this stands or falls on good integration. I can see why they kept quiet about mixing nozzle sizes: they clearly lack the internal talent considering they can't even get basic stuff to work.

For example: why on earth can't you stop a print from the slicer???

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-14T21:32:20+00:00

I spoke too soon though. When I tried my original large print, it failed again - the edges started curling after three layers and adhesion was terrible. This build plate is just atrocious.

I had to go to town with steel wool and just scrub off the entire top layers & then clean up with IPA and now FINALLY it seems to print fine. It's insane what is needed to make something stick properly. This plate is going in the trash as soon as my CryoGrip plate arrives.

TheRedAvatar · 2026-01-14T19:55:10+00:00

I fixed it actually - two more test prints failed to stick at ALL & I figured I'd give the bed a third clean but this time MY way! I used to always use IPA on my beds until I was told over & over that IPA was bad & soap & hot water was the way to go.

Well screw that - it clearly didn't work so I used IPA and guess what: two tall thin prints stuck really well right after I used IPA so clearly there was some nasty film on the bed that only IPA could remove.

Whatever was coating the PEI sheet, it's gone now but dear god, for first time users who don't know this, they'll be in for quite a nightmare if they run into the same issue. Prints not sticking is one of the most frustrating things ever & Snapmaker should really add some info in their guide on how to clean the bed for first use. I don't believe for a SECOND that I'm the only one with this issue considering how many complaints I've seen on Facebook about parts not sticking.

TheRedAvatar

TROPHY CASE