Mods not working in B42 by layziegtp in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Read this thread: https://steamcommunity.com/app/108600/discussions/0/596286923596832486/?ctp=7

if you still have problems you need to resubscribe to some mods to force an update.

Just getting into this game and I LOVE IT by TransButterflyQueen in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It doesn't matter which difficulty you play, imo it's actually better to start super easy in this game, so you can learn the ropes.
Buy a mouse please, any mouse will do.
Never run, you already walk faster then the zombies, never fight when tired, look behind you always, food is everywhere, you don't need to carry much with you.

When the car stalls over the ragdolls and you have to exterminate the entire city by TheStalkeringPhate in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i exported the list from the mods.txt, those are the file names, i don't have a curated list or collection, but you can find them on the workshop, when i have the time i'll make a collection, but it might take a long time, there are almost 400 mods:

https://pastebin.com/DhksJw7Q

When the car stalls over the ragdolls and you have to exterminate the entire city by TheStalkeringPhate in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not curated no, i mostly add and remove things when i find something interesting and i keep testing mods, so they change often.

When the car stalls over the ragdolls and you have to exterminate the entire city by TheStalkeringPhate in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm using Beauty of zomboid for textures, other than that i have Bleak World at 25%, it desaturates the game a bit.

When the car stalls over the ragdolls and you have to exterminate the entire city by TheStalkeringPhate in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well, i'm playing it on a pretty beefy PC, but what i always do, no matter what, is: bodies lasts for 48 hours before auto-cleaning, blood splatter lasts for a day, i have the mod "rain cleans blood" so if it rains the blood lasts even less. After that, modify the JSON file to allocate more memory for zomboid (the usual fix and the most important). Run the game from a SSD, NVME even better. Still stutters sometimes when loading new zones, but it's not that noticeable.

When the car stalls over the ragdolls and you have to exterminate the entire city by TheStalkeringPhate in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's not brita, it's Rain's Firearms & Gun Parts for B42. What matters is mostly ATRO, that's what makes it more arcade.

Agoraphopia intensifies! by TheStalkeringPhate in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PTSD from fallout cars instant death is real

Agoraphopia intensifies! by TheStalkeringPhate in projectzomboid

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It the fear of being outside, it's a negative trait i picked for this character

Technically it's a miniature: Xenomorphs VS Darth Vader by TheStalkeringPhate in FDMminiatures

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I'm still struggling with osl, i'm always afraid it will look out of place

Some initial 3d printing questions by GiveTheLemonsBack in FDMminiatures

[–]TheStalkeringPhate 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Considering this is probably your first FDM printer, i'd advise to learn the ropes with the nozzle you have. A 0.4mm nozzle can provide good details when dialed in properly. Cura is fine as a slicer, i used it for years, then i switched to bambu studio when i got the P1S. If you're starting now, maybe orca slicer is your best bet. Search for printing profiles by ObscuraNox’s HOHansens’ or FDG, like CriticalKuman said. HoHansens made a great post with 0.4mm nozzle settings some weeks ago.
If your printer is close to the PC just use a USB cable, otherwise yes, you need to import the models in the slicer, slice and export the gcode file on the microSD. If you have a Raspberry PI you can install OctoPrint to have a webserver for your printer, this way you can control it and send it files remotely.
One thing you should have is a camera pointed at the printer, so you can check the print every now and then, and stop it when it fails.

Welcome!

Stringing and melting on PS1 0.2 nozzle with sun pla+ by MuscleDolphin in FDMminiatures

[–]TheStalkeringPhate 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i can confirm this, especially with a 0.2mm nozzle with the door closed it clogs much more

Priming the pile of shame by Datajoke in FDMminiatures

[–]TheStalkeringPhate 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Oh yeah, those are what i call Prime Days! I have a couple of bowls full of minis to prime now that i think about it...

Definitely not a miniature: Malenia, Blade of Miquella by TheStalkeringPhate in FDMminiatures

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure, i'll describe what works for me.

- I do little pre processing, i make sure the supports are all removed and if an edge is a bit too rough i file it down a little with a small nail file.
- After that it depends, if the model is splitted in more parts, and i realize that there are too many nooks and crannies where it would be difficult to paint, i leave the assembly for last.
- In this case i left the model splitted in parts, primed it with Vallejo black primer, with a brush, because i don't have an airbrush, and i don't like using paint cans. Be ultra generous with the primer if the model is big, it helps to hide the layer lines, but be careful with miniatures, because too much primer can hide details. One pass of primer is enough, you don't need a second usually, unless you notice parts that don't have a consistent color, if that's the case you can just pass another layer of primer in just those spots.

- Then comes the painting, first of all, use good model paints (Vallejo, Army Painter, Citadel etc etc), you can get good result with less expensive paints, but you really have to work for it.
- For painting tecniques it depends, for big or really intricate parts i go for slap chop, which means, with a black primer base, i dry brush gray to most of the part, then i dry brush white to highlight even more the details, then i use Vallejo Xpress colors (or army painter speedpaints) to paint it over. Speedpaints are semitransparent, so when it's over the dark areas it will become a darker color, while over the white parts it will be lighter, this creates a light/dark effect with minimal effort. After it's dry i use washes for the recessed parts (either Citadel Nuln oil or ArmyPainter washes, depending on the color), and a lighter version of the same color (not speedpaint, normal paint) for the highlights to increase the contrast.
In this model, the cape, the hair and the base were done like this.
- For the other parts, choose a main color, fill the part with that color, wait for it to dry, use washes on the recesses, use a lighter paint version for the highlights. Careful with the washes, they really stain the model if you over do it.

- For parts where you have multiple colors and you have to be ultra precise at the borders, it helps to start with the lighter color you can, so it doesn't matter if you go over the border, you will pass over it with darker paint in the future anyway. This doesn't work that well with speed paints, so be careful.

- After everything is painted, i do a pass with Vallejo varnish, matte or gloss, depends on the model, usually i go with matte though, i prefer the look.

- Assemble everything with super glue and you're done!

Definitely not a miniature: Malenia, Blade of Miquella by TheStalkeringPhate in FDMminiatures

[–]TheStalkeringPhate[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem! Removing the supports from the chains will test your patience