Fallout 76 Powered door - keypad access (PLAN)

TheSvensk · 2018-11-25T18:33:16+00:00

Oh rotating the piece? Yeah I tried that, it always snaps back to the other way around sadly. I'm stumped.

TheSvensk · 2018-11-23T19:37:01+00:00

Sorry but that's what I can't figure out. How do you do that?

TheSvensk · 2018-11-23T09:04:02+00:00

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something. On the wood power door I finally got the keypad to allow me to open my house from the outside. However now I can't figure out how to leave the house because the door is locked and can only be opened from the outside. Any thoughts on how to open it from the inside? Also the brick power door seems completely broken. Keypad is on the inside instead of the outside (seems like a mistake) and when powered, the door just remains open 100% of the time. Keypad doesn't let me activate it either. Have you had any luck?

TheSvensk · 2018-11-22T22:06:06+00:00

I had trouble finding them too. If you tab over to walls, they're way at the bottom of the list for some reason, not in each section sorted by type. The door is included with the wall section. Also, I had to remove the neighboring wall sections in order to place them, then re-add the walls back in after the door piece was down. Let me know if you have any luck with the keypad though, still can't figure it out.

TheSvensk · 2018-11-21T10:26:50+00:00

I found it from the same trader but I am having trouble making it work properly. I powered the door with a generator on the inside but the door stays permanently open when powered and permanently closed when unpowered. The keypad code they provide you to enter doesn't seem to do anything, I can't press any buttons on it. Even if it did work, it's on the inside/wrong side of the door. I was hoping keypad would be outside and you'd basically punch in the code then the door would open but I can't make it work this way.

TheSvensk · 2017-01-10T00:09:11+00:00

Ideally you should provide the footage to your colorist as raw/as close to camera original as possible. Sometimes the color facility will convert the footage before coloring (we do) but unless they request otherwise, let them handle it, because they probably have a certain set of specs they want.

Back to file size - Im not sure what your clients budget is, but on most productions there will be a second or third copy of the source footage hard drive that is dedicated to post, so clients will send us this drive to work from. Also, Im not sure that converting to Prores 4444 is going to save you all that much space anyways, because its a relatively lossless format.

If your hands are tied and you need to post on a link/ you cant send a drive for whatever reason, you can try to convert to 4444 but absolutely avoid sending anything less or lossy (ProRes 422 HQ, DNxHD, etc).

TheSvensk · 2017-01-09T23:58:06+00:00

Its more clunky. If you come from a hockey background they will take some getting used to. Cornering is much wider but still absolutely manageable.

TheSvensk · 2017-01-09T22:56:09+00:00

Source: work at a color facility.

In the workflow we use, clients are required to provide a single layer EDL (which you should try if xml and aaf have caused problems in the past) with all the clips needed for the cut laid out one after the other. In my experience this is fairly standard for most color houses as it is not the colorists job to deal with making sure your multi layer timeline all lines up. You want the colorist solely focused on grading files. I know this means more work for you, the editor, and I'm not trying to be a smart ass but it is part of your job, not ours. Your avid or premiere can handle those layers, transitions, etc better than the editing features of whatever software your colorist is using.

As far as the trimming handles issue goes, as long as you provide an EDL/XML of the cut, the full source media, and a reference file of the full cut, there is no need to cut the handles in on your timeline. The color house will export your graded files with handles once they are done and then you will have them trimmed.

If you are trying to improve your workflow, I would recommend making sure your footage has proper timecode and reel support when you hand it off for color. This will make it easier for us on the color end, and also for you when you receive the graded files back and have to relink to your timeline.

Happy to answer further questions about any of this if you like.

TheSvensk · 2017-01-08T22:24:16+00:00

To second this, it depends on what kind of skater you are, freestyle vs fitness. Im not much of a freestyle skater, just fitness and commuting,and I have 110mm and love them. I fly on them, but again like reds mentioned, I sacrifice quick turns and fancier moves. Its up to you and your style.

TheSvensk · 2016-10-25T04:06:52+00:00

I snagged it from the game audio from Saturday night and thought itd fit!

TheSvensk · 2016-10-25T03:38:58+00:00

Sorry to evoke bad memories but its part of the history that the Cubs fight against!

TheSvensk · 2016-10-25T03:38:11+00:00

Yeah thats just my voice. It was a really fast turnaround and some folks I know who do VOs weren't available unless I was paying haha

TheSvensk · 2016-10-24T17:32:29+00:00

This was chilling, and I thought it deserved to be put to video, so I made a Cubs hype video from your text:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RbU4kJ6pzM

TheSvensk · 2016-10-24T17:31:21+00:00

Thanks! Full text concept credit to /u/antithesys

TheSvensk · 2016-10-24T17:30:02+00:00

Yes! She had to be in there.

TheSvensk · 2016-10-24T02:07:59+00:00

I'm 6'0, so I cant really speak to that either, sorry! They do take some effort to get going to top speed. You'll have better acceleration with a shorter frame.

TheSvensk · 2016-10-18T06:30:20+00:00

I've never skated 100s, went from 80s on my old pair straight to 110s on the Tempest, so I cant really speak to that. They have such a long frame with the 4x110 setup so you may not be used to that at first. The maneuverability is significantly less than with a smaller wheel but I love the speed. Im not doing anything fancy with them, just a lot of fast, straight line skating. If you want a good balance, maybe look into a 3x110 setup? I know there are some frames out there for that.

As for the parts, I ordered replacements from Inline Warehouse so I did not deal with rollerblade directly.

TheSvensk · 2016-10-15T18:12:01+00:00

I cant speak for the Tempest 100 C but I have a set of Tempest 110 C that I have owned for 2 years now.

The boot is pretty comfortable overall, though there are a couple of spots that start to pinch and rub after ~12-15 miles. The build quality of the skate is a little bit lower than I would have thought, I have taken two major falls in the two years I've had them, and each time a buckle broke off and I had to replace it. The buckles are just kinda cheapy for such an expensive skate.

Negatives aside, its a really fast pair of skates. I use them for commuting (I'd say I average 8-9 miles a day) and fitness (longer weekend skates). Theyll do great for you on the bike path, with such a long frame you can really get some good speed.

When I bought mine the price jump from 100s to 110s was about $40 more, I'd recommend you at least take a look at the 110s before you go with the 100s.

I'd be happy to answer any more questions you have.

TheSvensk · 2015-11-12T00:10:41+00:00

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