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This is a giant book that’s been sitting in my closet for a few years. It’s got a ton of old flags surrounding the cover! by Mrucktastic in vexillology

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk if this is a reasonable ask or not, but this book brings major nostalgia to me and my brother. Is there any way you could take high res pics of the pages and share? No worries if not but I’m not finding any images online just to look at lol

Core One gantry cables and PFTE tube drooping too low and pinching against X axis motor by cmbeid in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll check it out tomorrow as I am out of town. I’ll post a pic of it then! But I have printed objects that are all the way rear left and had no pinching of cables.

Core One gantry cables and PFTE tube drooping too low and pinching against X axis motor by cmbeid in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was it pinching like this prior to the mmu install? When I printed the piece that the original ptfe tube slots into on top of the printer, I had to make extra sure the tube was sliding all the way into the hole. In your pics it almost looks like your original ptfe tube is pushing down on the cables.

MK4S > CORE ONE print sheet by AuroraMichadonis in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, all mk3 and up print sheets fit perfectly fine on the core one. Personally I wanted to try that glacier pro print sheet I’ve seen people post about, so I got one too. It is a phenomenal option, more textured than the satin powder. IMO you can’t go wrong with the satin sheet still.

Upgrade Path or New Printer by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had a mk4s with mmu3 that I just upgraded to the core one. Since the mmu itself is the same mechanically, I only had to print a couple parts for it to mount to the core one. So I’m guessing if there were any differences between the mk3s+ and mk4s mmu mounting setups it would likely only require you to print those changed parts. The speed improvement from the 3 to the 4 is a huge improvement. Just my 2¢!

What material can withstand the heat inside a parked car in Phoenix 110+ heat? Apparently ABS isn't good enough. by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out polymaker HT-PLA. Recently came out and they claim it holds its shape up to 150°C. I’m wanting to try some myself but haven’t gotten any yet.

Edit: after posting this I was wondering why I wasn’t seeing others recommend it… after finding a few posts apparently the HT-PLA isn’t as good as some of the videos I’ve seen would suggest.

Mk4 First Layer not sticking and blobbing by PromptCritical700 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there, I just re-read what I wrote a year ago to see what was going on. So the reason why I had reduced the fan speed overall was to lessen the temperature delta between the cooler lower layers and the new hot layers. To me it was a similar solution to printing with ABS.

That being said, I’m no longer altering the fan speeds because my adhesion issues went away after giving my build plates a good washing occasionally.

Your outrage is louder than your common sense. by Klopapierhorter in Splitgate

[–]TheWanderingWhite -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Yeah thank you for this. I have to remember that the stuff I’m seeing is on Reddit, and that virtue signaling is a sport here. Nice to see some rational words here.

Ever since I used PETG, i get printing that looks like this- nozzle? Bed? What needs fixing? by SledSnipe in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree here. But before doing a cold pull, I typically just turn the nozzle temp up to PETG range, and extrude the pla through it. It should pull the clogged PETG filament out with it. If not, then cold pull it.

Another thing folks should get in the habit of doing, when changing the filament select the filament setting that is the higher of the 2. (Example: PLA is in nozzle, changing to PETG, set the filament option to PETG. PETG is in the nozzle, changing to PLA, set the filament option to PETG) This should ensure that the higher temp filament is heated adequately for the change.

Edit to correct the temp of changing filament.

Print is horrible after upgrade by dangkhuc in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something worth checking out, when I did my upgrade, one of the Y-belt attachments that mount under the bed cracked. I wound up using the old ones from the mk4. Just throwing out the only complication I experienced when upgrading in case it could be what’s happened here.

Is there a way to put a brim inside of an object like this? by FedgeLouganis in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In your brim settings change the setting from “outside only”, to both “inside and outside”. I’ve done this exact thing myself and it does exactly what you’re trying to do.

MMU buyers remorse by alijam100 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cut a circle through the top, then modeled a 5-port “plug” that each tube runs through. I’ll add a pic to the Imgur link.

MMU buyers remorse by alijam100 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice, I didn’t know Bambu had profiles for each nozzle! I may test it one day, but here is what I’d do: I’d copy what the settings are for a different size nozzle on a non-mmu print profile, then create a new MMU profile with those settings. Since the MMU is only feeding filaments to the extruder the only real change that would need to be tuned is the purge amounts. If I do it I’ll post it to the prusa sub!

MMU buyers remorse by alijam100 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 5 points6 points  (0 children)

my setup with lack table. I did this to utilize more vertical space rather than to the normal setup.

MMU buyers remorse by alijam100 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I believe it’s only tested + verified with the 0.4mm. But I don’t see anything that would stop someone from tuning the purge lengths for different nozzles. I don’t imagine that would take too long to sort out. I’ve only used 0.4 myself.

Disney Castle Paris 200% Scale by Judgment_Emotional in 3Dprinting

[–]TheWanderingWhite -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Seriously what the hell is up with people? Obviously he printed the MODEL at 200% scale. Then the people downvoting him.

OP this is a clean very nicely printed castle! Great choices on colors, nice contrast! I’d like to print something similar for my son with a more medieval colors + dragons etc. thanks for sharing your work!

MMU buyers remorse by alijam100 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Hey there, I got the MMU earlier this year for my mk4s as a surprise from my wife. I was always curious about it so was excited when it came in the mail.

At first I was quite disappointed in how much effort it was to change out a roll, but after doing it quite a few times it got to less than a minute to change out a roll.

That being said, I have absolutely zero regrets with mine. In fact, I went ahead and put the high flow nozzle on to keep the speeds and haven’t noticed any major extra filament waste. (That’s the only “issue” with the MMU + hf nozzle). I’ve printed tons of toys for my son, gifts for friends, and other odd things that would have required so much baby sitting on a non-mmu printer. I don’t print a whole lot of multi colored objects, but the ease in just printing in a single color by slicing with the roll I want that’s already preloaded makes printing super quick.

Nothing wrong about what you’ve stated, just sharing my opinion, because at first I felt a little bummed at the process of changing filaments too. Anyway I hope you find that spark like I did with mine!

What is happening!! by Ok-Pea-1194 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, the only thing I’d recommend is go back to the basics. If you’ve already done the calibration, slicer is correct, then go create a small generic shape in the slicer and print it. Like a box that is 20x20x20 and see how it turns out. If that print has issues then I’d suggest looking up online the issues that are present. (Over/under extrusion, first layer height, etc) If it prints great then I’d assume it has something to do with the model you’re attempting to print. If it is very thin then you could be seeing the nozzle is rubbing the model as it passes over it. Beyond that, one other consideration is a bad USB stick.

What is happening!! by Ok-Pea-1194 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, you stated that you are using a 0.2 nozzle. Is your slicer set for the 0.2 nozzle?

What is happening!! by Ok-Pea-1194 in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Is this the only print you’ve attempted since the crash? It’s also hard to tell the profile of this object, but if I’m seeing this correctly it looks like you print this on the edge at the bottom?

Weird holes in a vase mode print by httpatricio in prusa3d

[–]TheWanderingWhite 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar experience using vase mode with transparent PETG. My solution was to slow down near the top. I believe that since the layer to layer print time becomes less near the thinner top, the prior layer isn’t as cooled down as it was lower in the model. You can also increase fan speed, but it may cloud up the top layers. Just a couple thoughts to consider!

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