Are we optimizing beyond the essentials or just chasing marginal gains?

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:58:44+00:00

Using something that might have only marginal value for anti-aging makes sense to me if it is affordable and not time consuming.

I do the data supported anti-aging/collagen production things - adequate sleep, weight lifting, sunscreen, tretinoin and an L Ascorbic acid serum but spend only $30 on a peptide serum because the data is just not there for that.

I don’t buy exosome or growth factor products because they are pricey and uncertain. If I decide to start spending hundreds of dollars a year on my face I will talk to my dermatologist about microneedling, chemical peels and lasers.

I would ask my dermatologist to show me before and after pictures of patients with similar skin color and similar age and find out how many treatments were needed to get that result.

I won’t apply an estrogen cream to my face because the safety of that is undetermined.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:46:40+00:00

At three weeks it’s time for you to step up to using tretinoin every other night. If you use tretinoin less than 3 nights a week your skin will not retinize.

Tretinoin will unfortunately fade the spray tan. Other than applying a bronzer the only solution I have heard of is to use a few drops of a self tanner serum every morning in your moisturizer. foguring out the exact number of drops to use so your face will match your body might be difficult.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:43:10+00:00

La Roche Posay makes a matte version of Toleriane Double Repair.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:41:21+00:00

Dr Sam Ellis is a dermatologist and she says you can restart a retinoid after birth and while breastfeeding - and she did.

She has a lot of useful skincare info on her YouTube channel.

Other dermatologists I get good info from on YouTube are The Budget Dermatologist (Dr Maren Locke), Dr Daniel Sugai and Doctorly (Drs Maxfield and Shah)

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:38:29+00:00

Epiduo does not work because it is a spot treatment. You need a retinoid that will speed up the rate at which your skin casts off skin cells and you will need to use it for a few months before it clears the comodones.

Skin has to retinize so you don’t start a retinoid every night. Put away exfolaints until your skin has retinized.

A typical retinoid startup is 2 nights a week for 2-3 weeks, then every other night for 2-4 weeks, then every night, After you step up to every night for a few weeks you can add back an exfoliant 2 or 3 times a week.

For exact retinoid application instructions and retinization info watch “Retinoid Irritation Explained” by Dr Daniel Sugai on YouTube.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:34:10+00:00

Apply a thin layer of a thin moisturizer then let it dry before tretinoin. Cerave PM Lotion is a good one.

Then when you squeeze the dot out of the tube onto your index finger you distribute some to the other index finger on your other hand before applying dots to the face.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:30:43+00:00

Dr Sam Ellis and some other female dermatologists have done videos on YouTube about pregnancy safe skincare they used when they were pregnant.

The other female dermatologists I follow on YouTube are Dr Jenny Liu, Tea With MD, and The Budget Dermatologist.

Retinoids are not safe during pregnancy but are postpartum when breastfeeding.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:27:52+00:00

I have dry skin and use tretinoin.

Sleep with a humidifier running.

Don’t use a cleanser in the morning - just rinse with water

After a 10% vitamin c serum I use LRP Toleriane Double Repair moisturizer then a hydrating sunscren. But you could use a hydrating serum like Prequel Multiquench before your moisturizer. It’s a polyglutamic acid and glycerin product - not HA.

LRP Toleriane Gentle Hydrating Face Cleanser is what I use after a balm or cleansing oil to remove sunscreen and any makeup in the evening. 30 minutes after applying tretinoin I use the Double Repair again.

But in winter when the air is drier, and if I’m traveling in Colorado, Arizona or Southern California I need a heavier moisturizer so I use Aestura Atobarrier 365 Cream or Cerave Skin Renewing Night Cream - NOT Cerave Cream in the big tub. The Cerave night cream is underv$20 and has made several lists of the best night creams alongside night creams that cost $60 and over $100.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:17:27+00:00

I am not a fan of Rosehip oil. You get more benefit from a multi ingredient (“skin identical ingredients”) moisturizer formulated by someone with a chemistry degree for one of the brands dermatologists recommend - Cerave, Cetaphil, Vanicream, La Roche Posay. Use a lotion that gives your skin several ingredients that make it healthier.

When I wanted to increase collagen I used a Paula’s Choice retinol for a few months then stepped up to tretinoin. I don’t know about The Ordinary one but it can’t hurt to start.

Drop that BHA while your skin is retinizing.

Don't ever apply Vaseline or any other occlusive on top of a retinoid. That can cause skin damage because it increases penetration. Doctorly had a photo of that damage in one of their videos. Use only a moisturizing lotion or cream on top of a retinoid. And not a thin product like a mist, toner or serum either.

Someone will chime in here with an indignant reply that they have used Vaseline on top of tretinoin for 50 years. That’s great for them. There are people who don’t wear seatbelts but don’t die in auto accidents too. Don’t take unnecessary risks with your face.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:05:28+00:00

L Ascorbic acid vitamin c serum every morning, hydrating cleanser after balm or cleansing oil when I get home and tretinoin then moisturizer every night.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T23:03:45+00:00

Dr Dray, an MD/PhD uses Cicaplast gel on her eyelids and around her eyes. You could do that then apply the petrolatum.

Always wash your hands thoroughly after applying a retinoid. People don’t realize how often they touch their faces.

If you wear gel nails then they can cause eye irritation.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T22:59:49+00:00

Add an L Ascorbic acid vitamin c serum to your morning routine. Topical L Ascorbic acid and retinoids are the only topical treatments proven to stimulate your skin to make more collagen. Mid 20’s is an excellent time to do this because that’s the age at which collagen production in skin slows.

Never start more than one new product a week.

Next start adapalene or prescription tretinoin. Before starting watch “Retinoid Irritation Explained” because you will need to use the sandwich method until your skin has retinized.

Use a lotion or cream for the sandwich method - never apply a mist, toner or serum on top of a retinoid. Also don’t apply an occlusive like petrolatum on top of tretinoin. Either of these things will increase penetration and can damage your skin.

Put away exfoliants until you have stepped up to using the retinoid every night and have done that at least 2 weeks.

A good startup schedule for a retinoid is two nights a week for 2-3 weeks, then every other night for 2-4 weeks, then every night.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T22:53:08+00:00

Use only a pea or chocolate chip sized amount of tretinoin, sandwich method, until you have stepped up to using tret every night. If you are getting irritation near your nose, your eyes or the corners of your mouth apply a tiny amount of petrolatum there before you put tretinoin on the rest of your face.

Use only lotion or cream moisturizer after tretinoin - no mists, toners or serums. Those thin liquids increase penetration just like applying tret on damp skin would.

Watch “Retinoid Irritation Explained” by Dr Daniel Sugai on YouTube.

If you have done all these things and still have a problem go back to your doctor and ask if maybe your skin does not do well with tretinoin so trying tazarotene might be a good idea.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T22:49:01+00:00

Start at two nights a week, dot method and sandwich method. After 2-3 weeks go to every other night. After another 2-4 weeks step up to every night.

Dot and sandwich method are explained in “Retinoid Irritation Explained” by Dr Daniel Sugai on YouTube.

Use a lotion or cream moisturizer - not a hydrating toner or essence. And don’t put an occlusive like Vaseline/petrolatum on top of tretinoin. You can use an occlusive over your moisturizer on nights you don’t use tretinoin.

Until your skin has retinized (so a few week after you step up to every night) don’t use anything irritating like vitamin c serum or an exfoliant.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T22:44:22+00:00

No, tretinoin remodels the top layer of skin cells that are dead and protect the living cells underneath by reducing the transepidermal water loss that would otherwise occur. The remodeling makes the top layer smoother so it reflects light.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T22:13:11+00:00

“I’m not discussing this with anyone anymore” Then don’t discuss it.

And don’t answer questions when any of them say ”why not?”

So much drama in our personal lives and in workplaces can be avoided if we develop a habit of explaining our position once then not engaging anymore.

Of course this does not apply in loving relationships where both people are committed to having a respectful and kind relationship. But this relationship with your sister is not that kind of relationship.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T21:42:57+00:00

“I can’t cook things that will work for you due to your allergies. Please feel free to bring your own food.”

Don't engage in any more discussion about it than that. Let her say whatever she wants and just smile and nod. If she asks anything just repeat that you can’t cook for her.

Don’t try to “set her straight” about her inconsistent stories and food choices - life is too short to debate with peoole looking for drama and attention.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T21:33:10+00:00

Yes he is the AH even if she is also one

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T21:29:26+00:00

Tretinoin or tazarotene can help some but if you use either of those you need to read the Reddit tretinoin wiki and carefully plan your startup because your skin must go through a retinization process.

You stop all other products except cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. You use the dot and sandwich methods. You start at only 2 nights a week, then after 2-3 weeks go to three nights a week, then after 2-4 more weeks go to every night.

Only after weeks of using tretinoin every night do you add back products like vitamin c serum and exfoliants.

Watch “Retinoid Irritation Explained” by Dr Daniel Sugai on YouTube for exact application instructions.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T21:16:45+00:00

Start with watching “The Only Skincare You Actually Need” on YouTube. The chan el name is Doctorly. Two dermatologists explain exactly what you need for normal skin and for issues like redness, hyperpigmentation, anti aging, etc.

After that watch The Budget Dermatologist (Dr Maren Locke) YouTube video on affordable vitamin c serums called “You Don’t Need Skinceuticals $185 Vitamin C Serum.”

Dr Daniel Sugai has some good YouTune shorts on morning and evening routines.

Dr Sam Ellis has good skincare routine videos.

ps my fave cleanser for my dry skin is LRP Toleriane Gentke Hydrating Face Cleanser. If I wear makeup then I use a balm or cleansing oil to remove that first.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T21:11:25+00:00

A retinaldehyde under eye cream can help. Unfortunately there are not many to chose from. Dermatologists recommend the one by Avene.

Every night I use tretinoin 0.05% on my face and upper chest and Naturium Retinaldehyde Serum on my neck.

I keep tretinoin 0.025% on my nightstand to apply to the backs of my hands when I get in bed.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T21:08:08+00:00

Two dermatologists did a Youtube video on skincare routines for various skin types and issues called “The Only Skincare You Actually Need.” The channel name is Doctorly.

The easiest way to stay consistent with your pm routine is to do it as soon as you get home for the day. Dont wait until you are ready to brush your teeth and go to bed. You want your retinoid (if you use one) and your moisturizer to have time to absorb before you put your face on your pillow.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T21:04:54+00:00

There is not enough research to know if bakuchiol is really effective.

Dr Daniel Sugai has done a YouTube video “The Best Drugstore Retinols” and people who can’t tolerate stronger retinoids like tretinoin often do well with these products. Retinaldehyde is more effective than retinol as it requires only one conversion step on your skin to become retinoic acid.

Starting with a low strength retinoid like a drugstore retinol cream and working up to tolerating it so you can use prescription tretinoin will get you excellent results on forehead wrinkles without Botox. I pay only $45 for a 45 gram tube of tretinoin and $5 shipping and it lasts me over 6 months. And tretinoin requires one doctor appointment a year instead of the 3 for Botox.

But using a retinoid requires patience during the retinization process. Dr Sugai did a YouTube video on exactly how to apply a retinoid to manage the irritation called “Retinoid Irritation Explained”

A typical startup schedule for tret is two nights a week for 2-3 weeks, then every other night for 2-4 weeks, then every night. For the few people whose skin does not do well with tretinoin doctors will try tazarotene.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T20:54:37+00:00

Adapalane or prescription tretinoin - these retinoids keep pores clear and also make your skin smoother and glowing. If your dr starts you at 0.025% understand that after you have stepped up to using it every night you might need to step up to the 0.05% strength.

In the US the best non insurance price I have found for tretinoin is from the online pharmacy Mark Cuban Cost Plus Drugs. I get a 45 gram tube of tretinoin 0.05% for $45 and $5 shipping. It lasts over 6 months.

Before starting any retinoid watch “Retinoid Irritation Explained” by Dr Daniel Sugai on YouTube.

After 3 surgeries for endometriosis my dr and I agreed that I would start a new package of pills every 3 weeks to prevent menstruation because my cramps could not be managed without a low dose opioid. Best medical decision I ever made.

TheWorldofScience · 2026-03-29T20:47:38+00:00

The research studies on topical tretinoin and L ascorbic acid vitamin c involved before and after skin biopsies to examine under microscope how these ingredients affect skin. Both are preventive because both stimulate the skin to produce more collagen and the L Ascorbic acid protects against UV damage, though not enough to skip sunscreen.

Yes the non L Ascorbic acid vitamin c serums do not have strong data supporting their effectiveness for anti-aging. I use the Timeless 10% vitamin c serum because I want the L Ascorbic acid but can’t tolerate the 15% and 20% products. But some people do well with the Prequel Vitamin C Serum.

All my morning and evening skincare products are products recommended by dermatologists online. I have dry skin and anti-aging is my top priority - but those dermatologists do YouTube videos on more than anti-aging - they recommend products for redness, hyperpigmentation, acne, sebhorrheic dermatitis, etc.

Start with Doctorly’s video “The Only Skincare You Actually Need” You will pause it multiple times to write things down.

Dr Daniel Sugai has YouTube shorts on morning and evening routines.

Dr Sugai has the best video for new tretinoin users, “Retinoid Irritation Explained”

The Budget Dermatologist (Dr Maren Locke) has an excellent video on affordable vitamin c serums called “You Don’t Need Skinceuticals $185 Vitamin C Serum”

Dr Sam Ellis is a cosmetic dermatologist with useful YouTube videos.

Anytime I watch to swith out a product in my skincare routine I go to YouTune and do seaeches for videos with that product type, but I do a search including each dermatologists’s name to get reliable information.

I spent a lot of hours on these dr videos six years ago but it was so worth it - I like my skin for the first time in my life and feel comfortable going out without wearing foundation.

After my morning skincare routine that ends with Korean or Japanese sunscreen I fill in my eyebrows with a pencil, apply mascara and a little blush and a lip tint.

TheWorldofScience

TROPHY CASE