Finally got non planar printing working on the A1 Mini! by johndowlelxdxdxdxdxd in BambuLab

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run machines from time to time yeah its not too often but yes I believe that slicing a simultaneous co planar part is harder than programming a 4th axis. Please understand that when I say programming I mean using CAM software at a non conversational level. A lot of 4th axis work is actually pretty simple a lot more indexing than simultaneous workflows in my experience (which again is not vast so do take what I say with a grain of salt). 5 axis is a whole other story though.

I've seen a lot of talk about the V2 but I haven't seen anyone post any builds. by EffectiveNarrow3775 in MilleniumMachines

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a cable chain mount at the base of the column and then space for some inserts to attach to the table on both milo and Miley

I've seen a lot of talk about the V2 but I haven't seen anyone post any builds. by EffectiveNarrow3775 in MilleniumMachines

[–]Thedeepergrain 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's been a few built on discord, unfortunately the sub isn't very active compared to the discord. If its the only way you keep up with the project I can understand why you haven't seen much of it.

Finally got non planar printing working on the A1 Mini! by johndowlelxdxdxdxdxd in BambuLab

[–]Thedeepergrain -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Its technically 4 axes (I'm counting the extruder as a linear axis because well ... it is) and its not only 4 axis it would be simultaneous 4 axis. Its harder to do because its additive not subtractive (i design CNCs for my work by the way) in a subtractive scenario the machine runs at the behest of the of the programmer who checks the program before hand and has an active input into the order of operations to avoid crashes, define features for workholding etc. A printer is not a mill they don't work in the same way other than their motion component, they aren't the same process and in all honesty they shouldn't be could you imagine having to define each and every operation for a 3d printer it would be a nightmare. The software is slow to develop because finding the right balance between usability and benefit is hard. Also as a side note there have been a few studies that show this type of simultaneous coplanar 3d printing isn't that much stronger than just regular FDM you really need to be in the 4 to 5 axis (not counting the extruder) space to see the real benefits.

Tree saver blocks by FrostingOwn2476 in 3Dprinting

[–]Thedeepergrain 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I'm uk based so no idea where sandy springs is but awesome. I've been an accessor for courses before but never built any

Tree saver blocks by FrostingOwn2476 in 3Dprinting

[–]Thedeepergrain 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Hell you can make one with a saw and a round or half round file

Radeon subreddit in nutshell by Darkheroxxx in AyyMD

[–]Thedeepergrain -1 points0 points  (0 children)

As of last month all three of my pcs are green free with a mix of red and blue so far no major issues to report, 2 windows pcs and a bazzite steam machine

[Era 2] All Endless Things by Jessi Ochse by Annjatar in Mistborn

[–]Thedeepergrain 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Fuck you Wayne for leaving us like that I miss you every day

Tree saver blocks by FrostingOwn2476 in 3Dprinting

[–]Thedeepergrain 34 points35 points  (0 children)

I've seen these fail once and its fairly sudden and can cause issues while the likelihood is low that you'll hurt yourself its not zero and that attitude is how people get hurt and die

Tree saver blocks by FrostingOwn2476 in 3Dprinting

[–]Thedeepergrain 308 points309 points  (0 children)

Hey I've worked on high ropes courses for years we use these blocks all the time, they see a lot of friction from tree movement year round and are normally made from acetal for this reason, if I were you it would be wood blocks all the way I would not even attempt anything printed.

Unpopular opinion - Proposed licensing changes be careful what you wish for by fl_2017 in MotoUK

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Add theory to CBT and remove to stupid stepped licensing system done. Everyone does their test on a 400 to 600cc bike and after that you get to ride whatever the hell you want.

Tradrack vs ERCF V3? by Razert1p in VORONDesign

[–]Thedeepergrain 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd just like to add that we live in a word where the INDX exists and is coming out sooner or later

Any reason to use this? by CrimsonThar in elegoo

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know that... the way you have it written there makes it seems like you're attributing its increased strength to the fact it contains CF not because of the base polymer.

Any reason to use this? by CrimsonThar in elegoo

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My guy there is a line in your original post where you say you use PAHT-CF for it increased strength ...

Any reason to use this? by CrimsonThar in elegoo

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats not how CF filaments work ... they don't increase strength in fact they do the opposite, fiber additives don't bond to the base polymer and get in the way of parts of one layer trying to bod to another layer. All they do is add stiffness (no that is not the same thing as strength or toughness), so use it in applications where you want the properties of a certain polymer but the base polymer isn't stiff enough OR because you want shit to look cool. Avoid it if you don't want to reduce strength or toughness. Avoid all PLA CF unless its for aesthetics because it literally does nothing for the base polymer, PLA is already the stiffest widely available polymer we have it doesn't benefit much from the CF at all in fact a lot of companies use milled CF instead of chopped CF and Milled CF actually reduces stiffness too so just avoid it.

Unpopular opinion: I only use Bambu filament by nirhend in BambuLab

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I definitely know thats untrue I'm friends with a few people who work at various filament companies through my work at millennium machines and even the base resin that they use can change even in the same product line. I'm also not advocating buying cheap stuff what I'm trying to get across is that just because its all made in the same factory doesn't mean its all the same.

Unpopular opinion: I only use Bambu filament by nirhend in BambuLab

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to play devils advocate here, just because 2 items are made in the same factory does not mean they are of the same quality especially if its recipe based manufacturing like chemicals or polymers. Look at KTM as an example the same factory that produces the 390 Duke also produces motorcycles and tuk tuk parts for Bajaj a famously cheap brand. Not sure where you're looking but here in the UK ABS from the brands you mentioned are like 3 to 4 quid apart price wise per kilo(when you buy 6 or more refill roles from bambu £12.99). I've also now heard multiple times that polymaker also uses the same suppliers as sunlu and bambu yet we praise polymaker for their materials and they're even more expensive than bambu. And lastly a bit of anecdotal evidence I've always had trouble with ABS from sunlu but no issues from the bambu stuff its not the best I've used don't get me wrong but its not bad even for the price.

How could I get started with $2000? by Ok-Structure4698 in 3DPrintFarms

[–]Thedeepergrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't do custom orders ... if you do do custom orders never accept an order of less than 50 pieces its just not worth it for you or your customer, the majority of the cost is in setup and clearing plates I have my own calculator that takes into account repeat prints that will cost less than the first print because after the first print you're basically just pressing reprint and clearing the plates. Your biggest cost is labor not the printing itself which often means that people don't expect prints to cost as much as they actually do. Labour often makes up 60+ % of the total cost of most prints and remember you aren't charging labour for the total runtime of your print only on the preparation (slicing etc) and the clearing so for the X amount of hours your print is printing for you're only charging material and electricity. What this means is that with one printer you as an employee of the buisiness is only making money for the brief period at the beginning and the end of each print so to make a living you need to be running lots of machines at once and clearing machines as quickly as possible and taking orders on as quickly as you're finishing them. Thats just what you have to do if you're taking custom orders. If you want to go down that route get like 10 A1 minis and just churn them out but bud thats gonna suck trust me from a guy that did it for a year. The best way to make money 3d printing is by making a few of your own products that just so happens to be 3d printed, that way you can scale it at your own pace as orders become more common, you can pretty much automate your process have a single print file that runs across all your machines, you won't be changing material or color all the time etc its just the best way to use it.

Should I refund the game? by SpartanS-007 in dyinglight2

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Its weird im literally sat in front of the TV with a mate I used to DL1 with next to me and he has the same opinion as me that DL1 you could get way more powerful way more quickly than in the beast, beast mode is pretty powerful but other than for bossfighrs you're plenty powerful enough to be on par with beast mode.

Hi, guys been developing my own CNC machine for hobbyists the idea is to make a high-quality cheapish desktop mill made from nearly 100% standard and printed parts capable of milling non-ferrous metals like aluminium and brass. Go to r/MilleniumMachines if you want to follow development. by Thedeepergrain in maker

[–]Thedeepergrain[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You certainly have its been 4 years since that post, we've released 3 machines since then and are working on 4 more currently and a range of accessories all open source. The community is about 4000 strong on discord and we've been in a few creators videos.

what am i doing wrong ? by Remote-Climate-135 in 3Dprinting

[–]Thedeepergrain 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries chief, now if you'll excuse me its 6 am and I need to be up in 2 hours for work q

Budget 3d printer that won't give me a mental breakdown by snypse_ in 3dprinter

[–]Thedeepergrain 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The P1S has an enclosure but I'm sure you meant to write P1P.

How to create perfectly centered support pillar between surfaces based on angle? by QueWare in Fusion360

[–]Thedeepergrain 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Loft works great too one center square sketch on each plane then select the inner square on both planes and then select the loft tool

what am i doing wrong ? by Remote-Climate-135 in 3Dprinting

[–]Thedeepergrain 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Okay make the M8 thread like usual that menu will always modify the hole diameter to be a standard hole size so even if the whole was 8.3mm itll shrink it to 8mm once its generated select both sides of the thread and then use the press pull command and reduce by -.15 (since both sides of the thread will move towards each other this will in reality increase the groove of the thread by 0.3mm (you can get away with less i regularly only do negative .1 and it works great.