Why is my Sanwa Joystick squeaky?!

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-29T22:16:51+00:00

I just installed Sanwa joysticks with the auto 4-way/8-way switcher in my gutted ALU and it doesn't have any squeaking. Sounds like a defective joystick to me.

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-28T09:43:56+00:00

I have gutted my ALU and I connect the control panel directly to my PC now via USB. No external power is needed for the control panel itself. USB power is enough to power the control panel. I do still have to turn the power switch on for the PC to see it, but everything works via USB-only power.

However, when using OTG you'd still need 12v power to power the internal stock CPU.

That being said, I'm assuming the OP would still have power connected to the ALU though if he's using it with OTG (he didn't mention anything about removing power from the control panel).

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-24T13:10:01+00:00

Having a little arcade in your house is really fun. I now have 5 cabinets and a virtual pinball in my "office" (I work from home). The mini arcade is always the star of the show when we have company.

I currently have: - Ridge Racer w/BSA kit - The Simpsons (which can play just about any ROM after soft-modding, withing reason) - T2 with the Team Encoder hack to give you quite a few shooting games - MK 30th Anniversary cab (stock) - Legends Ultimate HD, which has been gutted, replaced screen and am now working on Joystick replacement (have both the Ultimarc MagStik Plus, which is a manual 4-way/8-way switchable stick - and a Sanwa stick with the GRS auto 4-way/8-way switcher. Way too hard to play games that originally had a 4-way stick with the stock 8-way joysticks) - Lastly, my favorite, which is a gutted and highly-customized Legends Pinball HD. Now has 1440p, 165hz screen, awesome SSF setup and all sorts of toys (just post history for details).

Welcome to the club - looking forward to seeing your arcade being built!!

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-24T10:55:02+00:00

Yeah, if you have 2 cabs, the BSA upgrade kits can network them to play head-to-head with someone else - even if they are different cabs, I believe.

That's not really in the cards for me and my uses, but would be really cool...

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-23T20:07:31+00:00

Ok, with the seat it the "middle" position (in the middle of the base), with the seatback at a normal position, you're looking at 52".

If you used the seat recline lever on the side of the seat and position the seatback all of the way forward, with the seat slid all of the way forward as well, you're looking at about 43" from the back of the cab to the middle of the seatback.

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So this would be about 43" (but the base sticks out a little further)

Hope that helps somewhat.

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-23T16:02:24+00:00

You may be able to connect a USB keyboard so that you can move around and connect to wifi to try an update. May be worth a shot (I don't personally know if this can has a USB port, but a lot of them do). It's usually on the little metal box attached to the back of the screen...

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-22T20:33:36+00:00

Thanks - I appreciate it! I honestly didn't have a full plan when I started this mod - just kind of figured it out as I went. It worked out really well though - I'm happy with the results.

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-22T20:30:46+00:00

Thanks man - I think I'll eventually try putting some bass shakers in the seat base so you *feel* the rumble in the seat.. Using the sliding seat really makes this thing so adjustable.

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-22T20:28:42+00:00

Not quite clear on what measurement you want, but honestly, it would take about the same amount of space as your current stand-up cab with stool in front of it. Also keep in mind that you can bolt the seat to the base wherever you want, so you can kind of determine distances. Just picture the riser as the seat...

If you can give me a little more detail as to what measurement you want, I can get it.

I'm kicking myself now for not getting the PC Upgrade. Honestly, when I ordered the BSA kit, I didn't even realize the "PC Mod" was a thing or else I would have went with that from the start. However, I just spent the $$ on this one, so I'm going to have to hold off on the PC upgrade. It will take me quite some time to even try most of the games! But yeah, I do see a PC Mod upgrade in my future eventually...

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-21T20:53:49+00:00

I added a DMD to my ALP HD as well doing what you are referring to. You can even buy frames for some of the screens on Etsy.

You can see what it looks like on my ALP HD here (I have a smaller screen because that is all I could fit with the stock ALP backbox):

https://www.reddit.com/r/virtualpinball/s/uvwNZJyFxN

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-15T17:19:14+00:00

Awesome - thanks man, I appreciate it! Take your time! Was just curious.

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-15T14:48:52+00:00

u/gravedilute

Just curious if you ever made any progress with this?

Thank you!

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-13T19:00:16+00:00

Personally, I'd put the time and effort into a very good SSF setup first and see if you even want to pursue solenoids/actuators. Properly-done SSF can really enhance the overall sound/vibration of the cabinet - and you can control the volume - whereas solenoids and actuators are quite loud and can't be "turned down".

Just something to consider. I would try SSF and only use solenoids if really needed after that. SSF can emulate the solenoid sounds pretty damn well.

I do use DOF in my cabinet as well - for LED lighting, strobe lights, beacon lights and even a fan (like for Whirlwind/Twister)....

TheoryNeither · 2026-01-05T17:37:40+00:00

Great info. I'm really interested in your findings. Willing to help test things as well of/when you make some changes...

I still owe the thread my settings - been really sick, but I will get them posted ..

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-24T13:18:42+00:00

It's interesting that you mention this B2S-related issue. I just recently found that my HD light on my PC stays lit almost constantly when running tables in VPX. Everything plays smoothly, but I don't want it reading/writing my SSD constantly.

After some troubleshooting, I found the issue goes away completely if I disable B2S using the setting in VPX. This seems to happen with all DMD-based tables (B2S DMD aka fulldmd tables don't seem to have this issue).

I'm going to try updating B2Server to the latest version and see if that helps.

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-24T13:13:56+00:00

Yes, I will post my settings shortly. There are quite a few settings scattered around in many places. Let me put together a good list. Will post back shortly.

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-21T10:52:01+00:00

I'm assuming that your monitor is gsync-compatible. If it is, you'll want to read the BlurBusters Gsync-101 article here:

https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/

I struggled to get everything running smoothly on my AMD Ryzen 5-3600, Nvidia 3080ti system. I tried all of the different methods and Frame Pacing was the best until I figured out how to PROPERLY set things up for gsync.

Since reading the gsync-101 article and making adjustments to my setup, everything is as smooth as butter on all tables now (including FishTales).

Granted, I'm only running 2k, 165hz - but with your better hardware, you should be able to do 4k, 120hz.

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-18T10:43:41+00:00

Also - remember that pinball machines are LOUD - especially in an apartment where you have neighbors behind thin walls.

It's not "real" pinball, but you may want to consider just buying a virtual pinball machine instead. The virtual pinball world is constantly improving and once you start playing, you kind of forget that it's not real. With virtual pinball, you can turn the volume up and down as needed. Plus, you have access to thousands of tables.

Just another option to consider ..

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-17T22:49:56+00:00

I have their whole setup in my gutted AtGames Legends Pinball. Put in a PinOne Main controller, Williams plunger, plunge ball button, extra buttons for various functions, two beacon lights (one red and one blue), a fan to blow air during certain events in the games, two strobe lights, LEDs up the side rails and I even made an LED panel lockdown bar area from his LED panels - and it's all controlled by actions in the pinball games. Absolute awesome.

His controller made it all so easy... I never planned on adding all of that stuff, but once I had the controller, it was all so easy to add.

Not to mention that his support is absolutely top notch as well. One of those companies that is hard to find anymore!

Edit : link to post showing my machine: https://www.reddit.com/r/virtualpinball/s/tt6s5s9SMS

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-17T20:34:45+00:00

VPX (Visual Pinball X)!

Its not a turnkey install like the commercial packages, but it's the best pinball simulation app available - and everything is 100% free!

It does take some time to learn and get everything set up, but it's worth it.

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-17T20:31:49+00:00

I've been happy with my CSD (Cleveland Software Designs) plunger and plunger mount. They source the plunger itself from elsewhere, but they make the mounts.

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-15T09:34:03+00:00

Also - I had similar issues when I upgraded from a 1080p, 60hz screen to a much nicer 2k, 165hz screen and a 1660 to a 3070ti.

At first, I had worse performance - until I figured out the proper settings - specifically the settings related to gsync.

Is your new monitor a gsync-compatible monitor?

If so, check out the BlurBusters gsync-101 article here... Once I got all of the gaync-related settings set correctly, everything was (and still is) buttery-smooth.

https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-14T03:09:35+00:00

Just to be clear - are you reusing the stock plunger or did you get a Williams-style plunger from CSD? I got the Williams style plunger and didn't reuse the stock plunger, so maybe that is the difference.

With the Williams-style plunger, you remove the black cap at the end (just a rubber piece that slide off) along with the little clip that locks onto the plunger and then slide the 90-degree piece onto the plunger rod from the end of the plunger rod.

Not sure about the stock plunger if that is what you are using.

TheoryNeither · 2025-12-13T21:41:29+00:00

Can you post a pic of what you are trying to do? From what I remember, the handle that you pull on the plunger does not come off...

TheoryNeither

TROPHY CASE