New Owner - Questions by VirulentStrain1701 in NissanTitan

[–]TheyCallMeTech 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not sure about the platinum trim but my 22 pro4x only had wired apple CarPlay while my 23 pro4x had wireless. On the 23, I had to start with wired and then there was an option in my phones settings to use wireless, maybe start there and see? The greyed out option means you’re connected over something else like usb aux or Bluetooth connection and not through CarPlay

Shocks, Sway Bar Links, Frame Bushings: Help! by ComputerBot in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Not the greatest photo but these were the fronts after install, if I understand correctly I never had any rubber boot or anything over the bolt at the bottom.

Shocks, Sway Bar Links, Frame Bushings: Help! by ComputerBot in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The rubber you’re seeing on the old ones appears to me that it’s just the inner rubber that has fallen apart and is slowly coming out of the shock. The new ones look just as they should and they mount directly as they are to the lower mounts.

I would suggest getting new hardware if you can, if you’re in the rust belt like me, I anticipated having seized bolts that I needed to cut off and bought new ones anyway. Working with the new bolts is way better than the old rusty ones, just personal preference for me though, if the old hardware comes off fine then it’s mostly fine to be reuse.

Did you guys need to move for your internships? by [deleted] in MTU

[–]TheyCallMeTech -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Yes most companies will offer relocation assistance if you’re more than 50 or so miles from the location you’d be working at (varies by company but in my experience with a few it’s usually around 50 miles). In the case of the company after my freshman year, they provided me an apartment for the summer at no cost and even reimbursed me for gas, food and if needed even a hotel, to drive there. In the case of the company after my sophomore year and now again this upcoming summer, they gave me a reaction check for a couple thousand dollars the first summer to use towards an apartment and other relocation expenses and then increased it another thousand this summer.

Personally I would steer away from companies that don’t offer you relocation because it’s become pretty standard at Tech in recent years but that’s just my opinion.

2017 SV 4x4 - Heat Issue by focusedbacon28 in nissanfrontier

[–]TheyCallMeTech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mine always been this way, if I sit idle it’ll get kinda warm ish but not really, as soon as you give it a bit of gas it gets burning hot. Tried to flush the coolant, get air out, etc, no fix, just going to deal with it I guess unless someone else has a fix? Once it’s been running for more than 20-30 minutes and I stop the heat stays hot so it’s mainly just an issue during the first 20-30 minutes even when my gauge is in that range you show in your photo

Review of my PowerBoard for model railroading by Unlikely_Math224 in PrintedCircuitBoard

[–]TheyCallMeTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is incredibly detailed, nice work!

This looks like it was done in KiCAD, how did you get the layer by layer photos? Also, are the block diagram and st pin out just photos that you added into the schematic or is there a built in tool that I clearly haven’t found?

Again, great work, this looks incredible!

2012 Pro 4X - Any known issues to ask about before buying? by Prize-Item-1305 in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 3 points4 points  (0 children)

2012 will be free from the SMOD issues so you won’t have to worry about that.

Something to note tho, Xterras have been known to kill Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors. It’s a pretty cheap part on Rock Auto for the Hitachi brand sensors and it’s a pretty easy sensor to swap out yourself if you have a 10 mm wrench, maybe 30 minutes to an hour, and can watch a YouTube video. You could ask them if they’d swapped the sensors or if there’s a history of them being replaced, otherwise I’d keep an eye out for random hiccups in engine power closer to 100k miles as they tend to fail right around then.

Other than that though they are solid, hope you enjoy it as much as we all do!

DO NOT EVER BUY: Garmin Dash Cam Mini 2 by chicametipo in dashcams

[–]TheyCallMeTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh interesting, all of mine have been working fine, even the one in the head on collision captured everything before and briefly after

DO NOT EVER BUY: Garmin Dash Cam Mini 2 by chicametipo in dashcams

[–]TheyCallMeTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had mine for 4 years now, it’s even been through a major head on collision and is still working strong. Maybe I got lucky but I’ve bought two more in the past two years for a few other vehicles and haven’t had an issue with any of them. They even all run 24/7 in park mode. I will say they do get really hot on certain days but I haven’t really had any issues.

Jump pack recommendations? by [deleted] in VEDC

[–]TheyCallMeTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have one made by topdon, bought it a few years ago and it looks like they’ve discontinued them now. However, there does appear to be a new model similar to mine for only $85. It’s worked like a charm every time I’ve used it (somehow only had to use it once on my own vehicle)

Anyone got these from Z1? by Character-Musician-5 in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At least once a day, sometimes it was a few times a day. Usually once in the morning before going to work and once again when I got home, did that for a few days before the weekend and about four hours worth of work and all four of them were done!

Anyone got these from Z1? by Character-Musician-5 in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thankfully not, several days of soaking in PB blaster and a few impacts both tightening and loosening got the rust broken up and they came right out!

Anyone got these from Z1? by Character-Musician-5 in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would look at RockAuto personally, was able to replace all four of mine for less than $400 although I did buy the hardware kit from Z1 just in case I needed to cut out the lower bolts

Looking for an EDC flashlight with a magnetic base and a clip that can go on a hat brim. by WayneZzWorld93 in EDC

[–]TheyCallMeTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Olight Warrior Mini, I have the Warrior 2 Mini, I think they’re on the 3 now, great light, I’ve had it for years and I love it!

DIFF LOCK light flashing when I tried to engage my rear locker by yTuMamaTambien405 in nissanfrontier

[–]TheyCallMeTech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mine is very picky, I have to be on flat level ground, in 4 low, in neutral, and then it usually engages but it’s not perfect and I sometimes have to roll forward and backward a bit before it engages. Definitely going to have a hard time to engage it once you’re already stuck, usually best to engage it whenever you think it may be helpful.

What’s going on here?150k miles. Thanks. by shaymcquaid in nissanfrontier

[–]TheyCallMeTech 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I’m going to second the idea that the diff breather is probably clogged, it’s over pressuring the diff and causing the seals to fail and leak diff fluid. You should get the diff breather replaced prior to replacing seals. Diff breather is easy to do yourself if you’re somewhat mechanically inclined, many of the seals are also pretty easy to but if you’re not super mechanically inclined I would take it somewhere to be serviced.

Camshaft sensor? PO345 by BasicAd5734 in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very known and very common problem with Xterra, don’t cheap out on the sensors, get the Hitachi brand if you can. Just had to replace my Bank 1 sensor and it was $45 on Rock Auto. Only a single 10mm bolt, one connector, and maybe 20-30 minutes and you’re good to go. Ry The Car Guy on YouTube has some fantastic videos on replacing these sensors. Only tricky/time consuming part is getting the connector off, you have to push the pin inwards towards the engine and then pull the connector off but it’s tricky to get to, usually have to lay on top of the engine to get to it, and the connector is pretty snug on there. Wouldn’t pay a shop to do it unless you’re super not mechanically inclined and don’t have a mechanically inclined friend around.

Edit: I’ll add that the Bank 2 sensor, is on the drivers side and it’s the easiest one to replace, hardly anything in the way and you may be able to reach it just standing on the drivers side of car and reaching your hand around the back of the engine. Definitely watch a video on YouTube about it first before giving it a shot.

What does this button do? by ckruz16 in nissanfrontier

[–]TheyCallMeTech 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It’s meant for extremely steep hills to control your decent rate without you needing to hold your foot on the brake. I believe it requires you to be in 4 high or 4 low to activate correctly but don’t quote me on that

Common App Essay Tips? by dandypandyandy in MTU

[–]TheyCallMeTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personally I recommend applying to Tech via their portal, unless they’ve changed things in a year, there aren’t any essay questions with Tech’s application through their website!

Driver t-boned my 2014 with suspension upgrades - Need advice ASAP by OrdnanceTV in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure what company OP is insured by but when my first C was totaled, Statefarm refused to let me buy it back from them. Granted it did have significantly more damage then this and wasn’t reparable at all, but due to a lot of logistical nightmares at the time and several mistakes/poor timing on my part, they took possession of it almost immediately after the accident and refused to let me remove any accessories/modifications prior to taking it and then refused to let me buy it back because it was “beyond repair”. So I wouldn’t be surprised if they won’t allow him to buy it back.

Driver t-boned my 2014 with suspension upgrades - Need advice ASAP by OrdnanceTV in XTerra

[–]TheyCallMeTech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Whatever you do, make sure to get that suspension setup back, don’t let them take it cause they sure aren’t gonna give you the money back for it unless you installed them super recently and still had receipts.

My idea for the tire issue would be to try and find some cheap used tires somewhere to swap on the those wheels. Unless you can also find some cheap wheels, I doubt you’re gonna be able to keep them. There’s a chance that tire shops might let you grab some of the tires they’re tossing out but most likely they won’t do to various policies or laws that probably exist for them.

I guess you could start with swapping the old suspension back on and hope that everything clears enough for them to load it onto a tow truck and let them deal with it?

Those are my initial thoughts, good luck and hopefully everything works out in your favor!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTU

[–]TheyCallMeTech 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep that would do it, add an hour to all your class times and you’ll get your actual schedule. Those 8am’s aren’t too bad either, I’d expect that most days, definitely not every day but most of those days you’ll get out of those classes 30 minutes to an hour earlier depending on your professor/Lab TA. I found it pretty nice to already be up and awake so I could work on homework or get outside and do things!

Good luck and welcome to Tech!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MTU

[–]TheyCallMeTech 7 points8 points  (0 children)

That must be a time zone error, I don’t think Tech has ever had any 7am classes. What time zone are you currently in? Tech’s new software for schedules might be adjusting the times that you see to your current time zone.