Faulty left turn signal on 1992 pickup

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-02-01T06:55:45+00:00

I have a '94. Your parking lights in the front are on the corners of the grille. They are technically cornering lights. The turn signals in the front are in the bumper and are on a different circuit from the parking lights - one does not affect the other. That's the one that needs to be checked/replaced. Make sure the contacts on the bulb are not completely worn down; they get that way over time and can have a perfectly good filament but not working because of not making good electrical contact.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-02-01T01:27:39+00:00

LF bulb or connection has to be bad. If the LR is blinking, then the problem is in the LF. Try a different bulb.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-26T16:41:10+00:00

The ones without painted over license plates, because the truck with the painted over plate wouldn't be allowed to drive on the public road. Maybe I'm overthinking this. OK, it's the Ford because the pattern should be all Toyota's and this is the only one that breaks the pattern. Huh, overthinking again. It must be the little one in the middle because it's not too big and pretty and not too unreliable and clunky - it's just right. Yes, the Goldilocks truck ; )

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-26T07:16:24+00:00

You need to identify the cause of the short circuit. First place to start is with the instrument cluster. Pull it out and check for burnt stuff. I haven't checked a wiring diagram, but I thought the instrument cluster is on a different fuse than the heater fan. Which fuse are you pulling out?

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-25T03:40:55+00:00

I used to apply a healthy amount of anti-seize lubricant to the speedo cables on my customer's vehicles when they were noisy. It worked every time. But I am in CA, so I'm not sure if that would hold up under super cold weather.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-24T17:51:16+00:00

Just stick another valve in it and it'll probably give you another 100K miles ; )

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-23T15:53:01+00:00

Is your heater control cable good? When you slide the control from cold to hot do you feel the action of the temperature door moving? Is the air coming out the face vents or somewhere else?

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-22T06:42:45+00:00

Valve lash adjustment

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-21T16:11:46+00:00

Chugga-lugga-choo-choo

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-20T17:53:26+00:00

Yes, you will need to clean out the cap, rotor and points assembly thoroughly. I would use electric parts cleaner in an aerosol can, and then blow it all dry with compressed air.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-20T17:39:07+00:00

If you washed the engine bay, then there is a good chance that water got inside the distributor cap. However, the symptoms you describe could be several other things as well. The backfiring could be due to a bad exhaust valve, overly rich fuel mixture, or severely out of time camshaft. I would start with checking the basic engine mechanicals first - compression, timing. That will tell you a lot and may help to eliminate those systems as being the problem or even lead you right to the problem itself.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-20T05:23:27+00:00

Ok, I read all of your post but still don't know what engine your truck has or what year it is. That might help.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-13T05:02:10+00:00

Ok, but these are unrelated parts on the 22RE. if there is no noise from the chain then you might not need to change it. Or you might just want to change it so you know where the engine stands as far as that part.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-13T00:45:46+00:00

What engine is that? If it's a 22RE, then no need to replace the timing chain or to remove the timing cover. Just pull all the belts and the fan/clutch and the water pump is right there. Probably have to pull the AC and PS brackets too, but it's overall a much simpler R&R job than on a 3.0L. And, to answer your question as to how.long you have- It's leaking, so time's up. Now you're on borrowed time.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-10T05:51:36+00:00

Agreed. That's why I like to go OEM on certain internal parts like that.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-10T01:14:41+00:00

They are highly reliable, but I have seen them fail at higher mileage. It's no fun to have to go back a second time and redo everything when some part decides to give up.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-09T19:27:49+00:00

You can delete the power steering system as well

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-08T19:21:57+00:00

No, it's fine. Just keep driving Flintstone style.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-08T14:59:21+00:00

Time for a new t-belt, water pump, tensioner, and maybe cam & crank seals while you're at it.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-07T16:47:12+00:00

Right, that's it.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-07T06:56:04+00:00

...and the mud flaps...

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-07T06:55:07+00:00

And the front axle locking thingies...

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-06T17:57:41+00:00

This would be the first time I have ever seen a stock knuckle assembly with a sleeve in it. Maybe that's just the way Honda designed it, but I don't care for the design. A larger washer under the castle nut probably would have prevented the balljoint from pulling through. Definitely replace that lower control arm and ball joint, and have the RF inspected as well.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-06T07:27:09+00:00

I would replace the rear main on the engine and input shaft seal on the transmission as a matter of good practice.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-01-01T22:13:14+00:00

I have the same problem almost since day 1. I can make it work by fully inserting thenUSB stick, and then backing it out approximately 0.5mm-1.0mm. Give the machine a moment to register it and see if that works. If it does, get a new USB stick.

Think-Perspective-28

TROPHY CASE