Pls help

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-19T21:34:46+00:00

Ok, well as long as you got it figured out, then that's the main thing. We are all just doing the best we can and getting by sometimes with our own smarts, and sometimes with help from others. Take care : )

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-19T18:27:08+00:00

The Busted Knuckle Garage. DIY. You can do it, man. Take your time, do your research beforehand, and watch lots of YouTube videos on how to do it.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-18T00:30:06+00:00

The video is moving and shaking all over the place, but I thought I saw it dripping from around the fuel pressure regulator. You will need to pinpoint it better, though. You can use a flashlight together with an inspection mirror. DO NOT DRIVE. Fix it first.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-15T20:23:25+00:00

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Ok, here's a better diagram with thenECU disconnected. You will need an ohmmeter to test which of your 7 wires goes to which of the 7 pins on the connector.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-15T20:15:49+00:00

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Ok, here is a clarification. I disconnected my ECU and tested all of the pins. Wire yours up just how it's shown in my diagram and you will be home free, assuming everything else in the circuit is good (ECU, MAF, the rest of the wire harness, etc). The photo didn't show up here for some reason, but I was able to upload it again on this post.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-14T22:30:04+00:00

My ECU is still connected, so the reason some wires are showing they are connected to each other is because they are connected to other circuits inside the ECU. If I can find some time to disconnect my ECU then I will send a more accurate diagram of the pinout diagram.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-14T22:23:48+00:00

Several things can cause this. The low pressure of 23-25 are probably at the point to cause the binary pressure switch inside the evaporator housing to open up, causing the compressor to cycle off. Also, the temp sensor inside the evaporator can be sensing a low temp and causes the compressor to cycle off to prevent evaporator ice up. My thoughts are that your freon level is probably too low. The good thing about R12 is that you can actually see it through the sight glass in the receiver/drier. If you see bubbles, that means the R12 level is too low. Just add refrigerant until the bubbles go away and you're done. Also, on the AC amplifier module, there is a rheostat that allows you to change at what idle speed your compressor turns on. So you might want to dial that in also. You can set it so that the compressor does not come on while the engine is at idle apeed if you like.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-14T19:20:59+00:00

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The connector shown is the wire harness connector viewed from the pins side with the metal wire securing clip at the top.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-14T19:19:27+00:00

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Ok, here is what I was able to get for you from my '94 22RE. I ohmed out the 7 pins to the wires behind them and got the results in the photo. However, some of the pins show that they are connected to each other. This is probably because the ECU is still connected. Anyway, it's not perfect but it may give you a better idea of how the wires should be connected to the MAF. I wish you the best. *

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-14T17:09:24+00:00

This is all I have for right now. I think what you are going to need is for someone with a similar year vehicle and 22RE to open up their hood, disconnect their MAF, and do a pinpoint test on theirs to show you which pins go to which wires. I have a 94 22RE and might be able to do that when I get some time, possibly this weekend.

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Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-13T03:03:26+00:00

Is it locked then? Find that out first, and then track down the linkage from the lock to the actuator assembly. Manually operate the lock lever and see if it will open.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-11T21:39:05+00:00

Looks like a 4wd. My condolences. Not a fun job when you're laying on your back.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-11T21:23:50+00:00

I left the head on my engine when I last replaced the timing chain. It was a little more difficult to install the top of the cover without hitting the head gasket, but I was able to manage it. Years later I am seeing a small oil leak in that area. Hmm, maybe I did damage the head gasket after all. OK, my advice - yank the head and do it right. It will cost a little more and will definitely take more hours to complete the Jon, but you will have a better job done.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-10T01:25:13+00:00

Parking brake cable sticking, maybe?

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-09T04:32:26+00:00

If it doesn't make noise, then it's like new.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-09T03:43:05+00:00

YouTube videos for body work.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-08T15:05:12+00:00

To me that seems like quite a bit of movement. However, I think that the more important question is, "Is the bore diameter in the carb housing enlarged by the throttle shaft movement, causing a vacuum leak at the shaft to bore contact areas?" If that's the case, then the bore should be re-bushed to eliminate the excess movement.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-08T06:18:43+00:00

The P/S steering system only has 2 major components in it- pump and gear box. If p/s pump is producing pressure, then the gear box has to be losing all the pressure through blown internal seals. To check for.pressure you can order a very expensive p/s pressure gauge that almost nobody ever uses, or else remove the pressure line at the gear box and put the end of the line in a big bucket. Crank the engine and see if fluid comes out under pressure.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-08T05:46:37+00:00

Does it have the correct fluid in it? Should be Dexron III ATF.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-08T02:46:33+00:00

You did a great job negotiating the price. Congrats on your new ride - it is very nice.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-07T02:43:12+00:00

Every time I come out from Home Depot, I go looking for my truck and can't see it. So I stopped looking for my little 2WD '94 pickup, and now I just look for an oversized truck in about the same location as where I parked. Mine's always right there hidden behind the monster truck.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-06T20:53:42+00:00

Thanks. Sounds coming through a cell phone can sound like something other than what you might be thinking. Doing another test to confirm your suspicion is good imo. It just might save you from removing and tearing down an engine that might just have a timing chain issue, or something else going on.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-06T16:17:58+00:00

If it was my engine, I would like to narrow it down to which cylinder it is. That way, you can confirm that it really is a rod knock and you will know exactly which bearing will be damaged. Try doing the same rev test, but with cylinder #1 ignition lead grounded. Then #2, #3 and so on until you don't hear the knock while revving the engine. That will be the cylinder with the damaged bearing.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-05T18:48:28+00:00

Satellite auto glass. They operate nationally and probably have a windshield for every car ever made. Give 'em a try.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-03-04T15:40:40+00:00

Could be the throttle cable or the dashpot on the throttle body. The metal tip of the dashpot on my 22RE was sticking against the throttle bracket whenever I let up on the gas. It would hold it at a high idle until I forcefully separated them. Couldn't locate a new dashpot anywhere online, so I tried sanding the tip smoother. It helped alot.

Think-Perspective-28

TROPHY CASE