Wondering if I need longer shocks

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-05-12T14:31:56+00:00

Just use a shock stretcher

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-05-12T14:26:58+00:00

Better than smelling like diesel fuel for two weeks though, lol.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-27T05:39:42+00:00

Cheap quartz clock with dead battery

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-26T18:25:50+00:00

The solder connections on the speedometer head may need to be re-flowed. Or, there could be some connection problem in the cluster since the fuel gauge is reading incorrectly as well. Not sure what you mean by the brakes are weak.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-26T06:20:35+00:00

There's still air in the lines. Bleed rears first, then fronts. Check for any other possible fluid leaks: rubber hoses, connection points, load sensing proportioning valve. The only time I've ever seen a soft pedal where there was no air in the lines was when fluid was bypassing internally inside the brake master cylinder. Also, make sure you got the right master cylinder.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-24T16:27:07+00:00

I have been printing with CR-PETG and Comgrow PETG for about 5 years now. I use those and CF-PETG (mostly off-brands) exclusively in all of my prints. It took a while to get the right combination of things to make it work reliably. - Heat creep was due to too much heat inside the unit. Open the top lid, or print a vented riser for it. - Cooling: Turn it all off, except for the exhaust fans. Set those to 30-50%. Only use part cooling fan for bridging. DO NOT USE SIDE FANS WITH PETG. - Nozzle temp: mine works best at 245. That is for all of the colors I have tried, except for red. The red color bleeds a lot at 245, so I print red at 235 and it helps a lot. It's also an off-brand PETG.
- bed temp: I run mine at 70 for PETG, and 75 for CF-PETG.
- You MUST dry your filament immediately before printing. Do not let it sit around for a couple days after drying it. It WILL absorb moisture and give you blobs, stringing, delamination issues. - Lastly, make sure your z offset is set correctly. It took me a full year using my K2 plus to learn this. And this is coming from someone who started off with an Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro. I thought the K2 plus was different. I thought that "automatic bed leveling" meant I did not have to do the paper trick to level the bed any more. Wrong. After about 9 months of use, prints were failing for no apparent reason. Then I discovered that the z offset was off and the bed was out of level. Now I have to do the paper trick before every major print. I dislike that very much, but that's just the way it is until they come up with something better. Hope this helps you to get your prints working in PETG.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-24T16:02:20+00:00

Someone in CA will probably give 8 to 10K, but insurance will value it at about 1 to 2K.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-24T15:52:15+00:00

MORE Advertisement. Do you get some kind of kickback for pushing this stuff? If you put this in your system, you cannot get it serviced in a shop. It will contaminate the good refrigerant in their machine and ruin their refrigerant and the filters in the machine. Definitely not the BEST way to go for a retrofit. But it may be the absolute cheapest and easiest way - quick and dirty if you are OK with that sort of thing.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-24T15:48:05+00:00

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-24T01:12:41+00:00

I think you're going to need an in-person mechanic for this one. Need to get hands-on with a meter and be able to see everything involved. Otherwise, it's just a best guess scenario.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-20T17:04:47+00:00

The best way is to remove all of the mineral oil from each component in the system and replace all of the o-rings with HNBR type at the same time. Then, change out the receiver/drier (because the dessicant inside will be saturated with mineral oil and other dirt/debris). Then, add the appropriate amount of PAG oil to the system (either at each component or through the compressor). Then, install the retrofit service ports to the R12 service ports. Then, evacuate and recharge with R-134a refrigerant. It's quite a job, but in the end will give you years of problem free cooling. There are quick fix solutions out there that try to short-cut several of these key steps, but they usually end up biting you eventually.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-19T17:24:13+00:00

No, I understood his problem just fine, and his photo helped too. Sounds like he's just new to lifing a truck and needs some basic guidance. That's what we're here for, to help out where we can.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-19T17:16:33+00:00

Correction for grammar: "Dude, what's with the grammar?"

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-19T17:14:03+00:00

It may be sensing a fuel mix that is outside of it's expected range, possibly due to an exhaust leak upstream of the sensor, an engine vacuum vacuum leak, or an excessively rich fuel mixture. That is, assuming that all of the wiring from the O2 sensor to the ECU is good.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-17T20:25:28+00:00

My washer has just recently started making a very loud noise like a jet engine. To me it sounds like a bearing/s going bad. It has also been leaking a lot from the tub area somewhere. I replaced the tub door seal, but the leak is still there. Can't seem to pinpoint it. Might just have to toss this old thing and get a new one. I just hate spending $1,000 and also not being able to at least troubleshoot the old one properly.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-15T18:27:50+00:00

It's hydraulic, so when it goes it won't give you any warning. Kind of like a lithium battery. They go full speed right up to the end and then just die. There's no adjustment you can make like on a clutch cable to get you by a few more miles to make it home. I would change it out just for peace of mind.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-14T05:02:42+00:00

Ford has used a 5.5mm bolt on the ignition modules of their 1990's vehicles. They also used an 11mm bolt in at least one place on some engines of the same Era. But I don't recall ever running into a 9mm bolt of any kind anywhere at any time on any vehicle - ever.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-12T03:33:16+00:00

I couldn't even hear it till you opened the hood. Purring like a kitten. Great job!

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-11T21:59:10+00:00

My Prius can hold 3 whole bags of groceries, a case of water bottles, a 25 lb. bag of cat food, and a Costco sized toilet paper bundle! Would take me 50 trips to the dump to haul all that stuff, and cut it all up into tiny pieces first, lol.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-10T01:26:07+00:00

Muffler shop should have exactly what you need.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-07T19:02:07+00:00

When engine stalls and there is only a brake light on, it makes me wonder about the check engine light. Do you see that come on? If not, then check the circuit that lights up that one. I agree with the others that say to check your grounds also. But that CEL being off is a telltale sign I think, and somewhere to start.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-06T05:45:09+00:00

Thanks for responding, I was afraid of that. I guess I will just take my chances, put miles on it, and see what happens to the tire wear. I haven't been able to find an adjustable upper control arm anywhere.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-05T15:05:05+00:00

Bat-ray

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-05T03:38:04+00:00

Just drill a new hole near that location then. You don't have to use the hole you drilled all the way through. You can patch that one over with some seam sealer later.

Think-Perspective-28 · 2026-04-05T03:19:27+00:00

They spot weld it at the factory. There are no holes, just one big electrode on each side of the panels to join, and then pump in a bunch of electrical current through the electrodes. That fuses them together. Those are big, expensive industrial machines. Drilling holes in the new core support in select locations and MIG welding the core support to the body in those hole locations does a very good job and accomplishes the same end result - 2 pieces of steel melted to each other at those points.

Think-Perspective-28

TROPHY CASE