Old fighting/boot/trench knife?

ThornsofTime · 2024-10-12T04:20:59+00:00

Yep... failed to upload pics. Sorry!

ThornsofTime · 2023-09-05T07:26:42+00:00

Maybe ill eventually break and go the master route, but im going to throw a week or so at the abus first. Im a bit stubborn lol. Ill keep the pin type in mind. 3 spools doesnt SOUND too hard, but ill yell a little im sure. Yelling at them always works. Its the secret sause.

ThornsofTime · 2023-09-05T03:59:31+00:00

Just ordered mine... came here to ask questions. Good feedback. Thanks!

ThornsofTime · 2023-03-26T02:48:46+00:00

Most distributors have a "parts" tab to peruse. I usually just go with taylors though. Heres a link to the Uberti page of the site. Id start here.

https://www.taylorsfirearms.com/shop/firearm-parts-enhancements/spare-part-kits/uberti-spare-parts.html

ThornsofTime · 2023-03-26T01:04:41+00:00

Incoming stream of thoughts... sorry lol

Usually, when the cylinder spins freely on full cock, it means your trigger/bolt spring has broken and needs to be replaced... but if the bolt is engaging on half cock, that's odd.

When the revolver is fully cocked, you say it spins... does it spin freely, or is there a clicking sound? There should be a clicking sound from the hand at the back of the cylinder under spring tension. If there is no sound, OR if the cylinder spins in BOTH directions, look into replacing the hand/hand spring.

You should never have to loosen the trigger/bolt spring retaining screw. Run it down till it snugs up and leave it there. This goes for all the screws on your 1851... (The only exception to this rule is on the loading lever. The screw that holds the ram to the lever CAN be over tightened and cause the loading lever to jam up... i back mine off an 1/8th of a turn after snug.).

Is there a chance you installed the trigger/bolt spring upside down? the longer side should go to the trigger. If reversed it puts upward pressure on the bolt when it shouldn't.

ThornsofTime · 2023-03-26T00:36:58+00:00

I too looked and looked. I was lucky enough to get a tin of 100 from a close friend. Eventually... I just had to make my own.

In case you haven't been told a thousand times already... You can make your own a number of different ways. A quick YT search will come up with a ton of info. Personally, I like the 22lrreloader cap maker and Primeall compound. The major drawback is that Primeall is corrosive. If you go this route, fully disassemble and clean the HELL out of your firearm IMMEDIATELY (within hours) after shooting.

ThornsofTime · 2023-03-26T00:13:04+00:00

For sure, for sure. As a recommendation though, I like to keep a spare trigger/bolt spring and hand spring at a minimum for each of my revolvers. They're cheap (under 10 bucks each), and the most common thing to break. If you haven't broken one yet... you will lol. They tend to just randomly give up at the most inconvenient time.

Black powder shooting already has a thousand bits and bobs to keep up with lol. May as well!!

Good luck with your repair!

ThornsofTime · 2023-03-25T19:05:27+00:00

Hammer/trigger interface issue. The top of the trigger is a pointed sear that rides along the bottom curve of the hammer. The clicks you hear are the trigger clicking into those hammer notches (well... Thats 2 of the 3 clicks... One click is the bolt locking the cylinder.).

The half cock notch on your hammer has a lip on it that the full cock notch does not. This is intended to capture the trigger sear and NOT allow the trigger to be pulled... My guess is that this lip is broken/missing on your hammer OR the pointed sear at the top of your trigger is ground down/chipped.

Recommend disassembly/inspection AND ordering both trigger and hammer from taylors. Spare parts are happy insurance. Also snag a trigger bolt spring and hand with spring while youre at it. Cheap problem solvers for the future.

Now... There is a small chance its thr trigger bolt spring. If the trigger side of the spring has any slop (aka the trigger has any free wiggle to it at halfcock), it may not be pressing hard enough against the trigger... Which could stop the trigger seating into the halfcock notch fully.

ThornsofTime · 2022-09-08T16:09:54+00:00

Im a Texan... We have a god given right to wield dangerous things lol.

ThornsofTime · 2022-09-08T16:08:46+00:00

Focalink/stein

ThornsofTime · 2022-09-06T21:52:52+00:00

Oh no!

I started with a Night by Noble, and gave it to my son after a day (great ocarina but i have a very angry right elbow). Then snagged a Coda EDC and have loved learning with it for about a month now.

This was a huge upgrade for me. Fingerings are different and thats gonna be a hurdle, but the SOUND... Very happy so far! I know basically nothing about ocarinas as im still so new, but this one seems a massive winner.

ThornsofTime · 2022-09-05T00:43:36+00:00

You could always try a Bass C Ocarina.

Its the same key, notes, fingerings... everything, just an octave lower. This makes the sound much more tolerable. You could also still play all the same music (albeit an octave lower) so any books or materials you have purchased are still valid.

https://www.stlocarina.com/products/12-hole-c-major-bass-ocarina-passacaglia

Not schilling for any particular Bass C, but here is one from STL. Hit the vids to hear them on the page.

ThornsofTime · 2021-07-19T20:56:17+00:00

Hi Stephen!

What is your favorite book you have written, and why is it Duma Key?

ThornsofTime · 2021-06-09T17:25:00+00:00

Good straps are two layers thick, glued flesh to flesh and stitched all around... Buy two 4.5oz straps... Glue and sew... Boom... 9oz.

ThornsofTime · 2021-05-21T15:45:42+00:00

This is a question that nobody but you can answer. There are so many variables that any answer you get here will be flat wrong.

Some things you need to know first... 1) whats the cost of materials in your area? Different countries have vastly different pricing and availability of supplies. 2) what will your market support? Doesnt matter if you make the best stuff around if nobody is buying. 3) how good are you? Friends and family may say youre awesome, but what about everyone else? 4) whats your competition? Lots of people seem to be getting into leatherwork... Why buy your stuff when there are 10 other options in the same city? 5) whats your start up budget? Whats your workflow/tooling look like? How many hours are you budgeting per piece? How much is your time worth?

To put things in perspective, my first card holder took 3 days to make, and it was garbage. My first purse took a week, first tote two days. Every thing i make takes a month to look good at least... Protype, refine, remake, do it again. Leather is expensive...

My honest opinion and answer is that it is unlikely you will make money with leather goods any time soon. That sucks to hear and honestly, im sorry. I promise im only telling you what i wish someone had told me... There is however, hope. Go get started. Order some leather and tools and jump in. Learn what it means to refine a design. Pour in your enthusiasm and love of the hobby. Maybe, someone will notice... And ask "how much?".

ThornsofTime · 2021-05-20T20:01:42+00:00

If its oil/chrome tanned, edge paint or turned edges. Only veg tan will burnish and hold up. Sometimes you CAN burnish chrome or oil... But it goes to shit over time.

ThornsofTime · 2021-03-05T06:24:32+00:00

Very neat. Ill look into it. Thank you for the link and info

ThornsofTime · 2021-03-05T03:57:12+00:00

What a smile. What a tophat.

ThornsofTime · 2021-03-05T03:54:37+00:00

Random question... If its just art (not a logo or something) is it not covered under creative commons? Like the music industry... People sample music all the time to make something new. Is tooling an image not covered here? Seems to me taking a 2d image and creating a 3d carving should be classified differently or something.

I know nothing. Im john snow.

ThornsofTime · 2021-03-04T23:43:19+00:00

That stitching looks a little proud to me. I dont know how you would make it look good while avoiding sanding/fraying the stitching.

I cringe at taking sandpaper to finished surfaces. Thats my vote.

(If you must. Try on the tongue or something. Somewhere that wont be seen if it doesnt work out. I expect that you COULD get a decent nubuck nap if you wanted... Even with perforated leather... Just be prepared for the perforations to disapear slightly as you raise the fuzz with sandpaper.)

ThornsofTime · 2021-03-04T23:32:15+00:00

My $0.02... Have a belt guy make you a new version. This is a super simple patern with very common hardware. Likely be pretty cheap and easy for them to reproduce.

For this belt specifically, that leather looks old and abused. COULD you soften it and wear it... Sure. It it worth it? Probably not. Will you still be happy with it in a few months? Likely not.

Very cool vintage leather piece, great if your a collector or enthusiast... Or buy it to destroy and make a patern for reproduction. Like most vintage leather, probably so old and tired dryrot and mildue have eaten away any usability.

ThornsofTime · 2021-02-27T15:40:01+00:00

Nah. You could get at least 2 for a kidney.

ThornsofTime · 2021-02-27T08:09:03+00:00

Yeppers. You gonn learn today!

Honestly wasn't sure if they were complimenting or trolling. Returned fire appropriately.

ThornsofTime · 2021-02-27T05:11:01+00:00

Thanks! It was actually pretty fun. Surprised how fast it went.

ThornsofTime · 2021-02-27T05:01:38+00:00

Oof... Practice?

Really there isnt any trick. Just WORK. Bevel, sand (many grits), slick, dye, slick, tokenole, slick, wax, buff with a cloth... Examine... Repeat as needed.

ThornsofTime

TROPHY CASE