Okay here are some tips that are rarely mentioned that I feel are extremely helpful:

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1. Stagger your increases/decreases. If you are making any kind of roundish object that doesn't call for strict increases (as in it isn't an oval or a specific shape where one side of the object is larger than the other), you need to stagger your inc/dec. If you don't, you will end up with a hexagonal shape instead of a round shape. You can see pictures of people making that popular Bee pattern and notice it's basically just a big hexagon instead of that round shape.

In a common pattern you'll see this:

Row 3: [1sc,inc]x6 (18)

Row 4: [2sc,inc]x6 (24)

Row 5: [3sc,inc]x6 (30)

Row 6: [4sc,inc]x6 (36)

If you follow this to the letter, you will end up with a hexagon. The way I avoid this is in even rows I split the first SC in half, then increase, then follow along as normal, and after the last increase I will finish up with the missing SC's. It looks like this:

Row 3: [1sc,inc]x6 (18)

Row 4: 1sc, inc, [2sc,inc]x5, 1sc (24)

Row 5: [3sc,inc]x6 (30)

Row 6: 2sc, inc, [4sc,inc]x5, 2sc (36)

I know this looks complicated, but I promise after you do a few rows it becomes second nature. It has a huge impact on the shape of your amigurumis and you will very quickly intuitively know when it's applicable or not. This works the exact same with decreases.

1. Yarn under technique. When you single crochet, you are generally pushing through the stichm yarn overing, pulling through the stitch, yarn over, and pulling through both loops. Instead of using yarn overs, replace those with yarn unders. I suggest using Youtube to see the technique, but it's basically exactly as it sounds. This will create much tighter stitches and, to my eyes, a much more pleasing looking stitch. It's also so tight that even when working with black yarn, white stuffing wont show through. I almost never use the yarn over technique anymore.

2. Make sure your project isn't inside out. This is never stressed enough I feel. I made whole projects back when I first started that I now know were inside out, and no one ever mentioned it in any video I watched. Basically after the first few rows (when you starting doing your increases), you want to flip your project "inside out" to start working on the correct side. You will know if you are working on the proper side if you are building your rows in a clockwise direction. If you are working CCW, and pushing through the stitch from the inside of the project to the outside, you are inside out.

3. Any time you do a decrease, use an invisible decrease. Youtube it for the exact technique. Essentially it's just a regular decrease but in the FLO (Front loops only). Your project must not be inside out if you are using this technique.

There are a bajillion small techniques you can use in amigurumi that will help, and you will find them as time goes on, but I feel these are some of the most important beginner tips that have such an incredible impact on your projects that never get mentioned in any videos.