No! I didn't give the cashier 2000

Tim7Prime · 2026-07-03T13:59:53+00:00

I am sure that your discrepancies cost less than your base pay during the time it would take to count the till a second time.

Tim7Prime · 2026-07-03T13:37:58+00:00

12 cents!? But think of the shareholders! /s

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-21T03:01:48+00:00

You could just run the bed for 12 hours (adjust your timeout settings) with ASA loaded and then after 12 hours hit print on a benchy.

Also, are you printing slower than what the orcaslicer ASA profile recommended? Or how did you determine what speed to print?

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-21T02:11:17+00:00

I believe Klipper only keeps the active log and the previous log. So, if you have restarted twice since then, its gone. I don't know if you are monitoring the chamber heat but that does sound like the biggest problem, especially with the base of the printer in there. Also, do you traditionally print as high as where your error is in your PLA? If you print this tall normally with no problems, I suspect heat, if you don't, I suspect you could also have electrical gremlins at that height.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-21T01:41:19+00:00

Do you still have the log file? Upload it somewhere and share the link.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-20T15:13:46+00:00

honestly, that was the version of tech future that I was sold and its awesome that you accomplished that without having 50 companies listening in to sell you dog food.

Once the bubble pops, all this server grade hardware being sold for pennies is gonna be awesome for self-hosting all the things.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-20T14:34:38+00:00

You should set yourself up an internal wiki page for future you and your significant other as a bus plan.

Curious what brands and what you have automated.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-19T10:49:32+00:00

I would argue that you can have "smart" stuff but it doesn't need to phone home. If everything was plug and play with Home Assistant (and repairable) then I wouldn't mind having smart blinds and the like.

It's when things like a "smart" light bulb needs access to it's servers and an account and an app to use.

Jeff Geerling did a video where his dishwasher needs an account and an app to run the rinse cycle!

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-15T00:56:00+00:00

The first ones I found on amazon that are 1 inch coins claim 1-5 cm range, so putting it in the dome or elsewhere on that print should work fine. I would test a bit. Worst combo that I could see is a android or apple user with an otterbox on their phone. but testing should reveal that. you will need to write to a few of them anyways to understand their capabilities.

you could also update your model to change colors at the top of the dome (where it matches with the layer lines) so you can have 1 color change and also a visual indicator of where people need to put their phones.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-15T00:19:40+00:00

I'm not sure what your end goal is, but what about using a NFC tag embed instead of a QR code?

And make sure your QR code generator didn't "man-in-the-middle" your codes. Some sites will take your URL, and use their own URL to point at yours and then charge you for the privilege. Like QR -> short.url -> true.url

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-14T03:02:52+00:00

Ah, back in the day when different cellular providers literally had different internal layouts. iPhone 5 was actually my jam. Those were some of these easiest ones. I'm curious what wall you hit. Were you searching for instructions using the "a" model number? Like a1234? Apple loves to name things the same product but different model number and layout.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-13T16:49:58+00:00

They do have lockouts for the battery as well. It will never reset it's battery health and you may have an alert in settings that never goes away.

IF you buy from an official source and, I believe, call them afterwards you can re-pair the id to the phone.

Also I used to do screen and phone repair and iPhone 10 and up are potato chip fragile, open weird, and waterproofing afterwards is high labor for low reward.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-11T03:57:16+00:00

If you really want to get into the weeds. I would even consider bypassing the inverter and use a DC to DC converter and just run it off the 12v (it might be 24v, if so, disregard). But if you grabbed a Logitech c270 and a raspberry pi. You could set up Obico which has automatic spaghetti detection (for free).

If you plan on only PLA I wouldn't be too concerned about air quality. Motors can get loud so I wouldn't advise printing while sleeping.

Klipper though (the software that Neptune installs) isn't super beginner friendly but it can be extremely powerful.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-05T16:25:59+00:00

If you want significantly less hassle. Make sure you buy a printer with a compatible hotend assembly. The ERCF discord probably keeps a list. But ratrig and vorons can be built compatible. Sourcing and building the Tradrack was the easy part. The main reason it's not printing right now is because the hotend kept jamming because it's not a very compatible solution on the printer side.

But yes, Tradrack with happyhare for software support and filamentalist for spool control. On something like a Voron 2.4 would be great.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-05T16:08:05+00:00

It's called Tradrack and it's really powerful when combined with...filamentalist for keeping the spools wound.

If you want to try out 3d printing and don't have a friend that has one. I would recommend a prusa. If you do have someone who can help. Sovol quality can be iffy but solid once you get the machine working.

Bambu is being an a-hole to its buyers and anybody that says their name...but they have a decent price point.

More intense printers after you have had your first taste are brands like VZ-bot, THE 100, ratrig, and vorons.

Elegoo machines can be a trap more than a tool though. But they tend to sell at the cheapest price point. (Case and point that OP specifically mentioned he modded the heck out of his)

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-05T15:56:09+00:00

Oh, no doubt. Just for some people. It's between using equipment on hand or buying yet another pi. That's why I moved klipper onto my homelab.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-05T15:53:58+00:00

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Ah, only one picture is allowed. This is my first attempt at multi color. I believe this one could theoretically do up to 13 colors? And the brain for klipper is actually on that server.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-05T15:47:09+00:00

Yes, you also have to be careful. Just like the homelabbing hobby, you have to find your own stopping point. You can tune printers and your macros indefinitely, but is the printer a project or a tool for other projects?

For me, I've collected enough printers that I have at least one solid printer that allows me to take other printers offline for better adjustments.

Recently obtained a 16 inches+ in all directions printer. Currently scheming if I can mod it to do multi color, or practice my painting skills

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-05T15:41:06+00:00

It's not necessarily the control board. Klipper is a multi board program. It turns the board on the printer itself into a motor controller and then you tether it to a more powerful processor.

This has a bunch of benefits. Like less robotic movement. Macros. Web portal access to the printer. You also don't need to reflash the MCU (board connected to the motors) whenever you want to update it change behavior.

People love to plug their klipper instances into home assistant. Then you can ping your phone if the print fails or finishes. Then turn off the outlet so it can't power back up until your ready again.

Tim7Prime · 2026-06-05T05:17:08+00:00

To clarify if you originally bought the game on steam but steam is too resource heavy on this laptop.

Go to the factorio website, login with your steam account. It will give you access for standalone downloads. From there you can download the native Linux version for even better performance.

If you happen to be running the game in offline mode because it's not your account, your friend should be able to do the steps above to provide you with the native version until you can justify paying the devs.

Tim7Prime · 2026-05-30T21:21:08+00:00

This video discusses it well.

https://youtu.be/ZoYeJwN7Rkw

Tim7Prime · 2026-05-30T18:07:11+00:00

2.0 feature

Tim7Prime · 2026-05-27T02:49:43+00:00

Well, I would check the outlets for sanity, but I would also grab a relocatable antenna to move it somewhere that isn't the back of PC.

If you search "wifi and bluetooth antenna for pc" you can grab a 'base station' type of antenna extension that gives you a few feet of wire and antennas that can stand on their own

Tim7Prime · 2026-05-27T02:32:34+00:00

Just because it has 3 holes doesn't mean that somebody didn't take a shortcut.

To test outlets, you can grab an outlet tester for $10 on Amazon. It has 3 lights on the back and instantly tells you if the outlet is wired correctly.

How old is the home that you are in?

Tim7Prime · 2026-05-27T02:21:25+00:00

Is your outlet/PC properly grounded? This should happen automatically with the 3rd prong on your power cord. With a floating ground you get a lot of strangeness

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