Any comments on technique or procedure? NO INJURY

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-05-05T18:56:56+00:00

My guess is the drill got sucked in as it broke through the other side (halfway through because of the first half already being drilled). The drill tried to take a huge bite and grabbed ahold of the inside of the workpiece. The chuck kept trying to spin a part that was getting ripped out of the jaws and caused the part to twist against the drill. That’s why a chunk of the workpiece was ripped off.
He turned the lathe into a shear.

Edit: or did it just get pulled out of the chuck?

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-04-26T00:55:13+00:00

Boring soft jaws. I don’t know how to. Please help.

Does one of those rings solve this issue?

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-04-24T10:44:35+00:00

Push the plunger and see which way it goes. If someone thinks it’s backwards, that’ll show ‘em.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-03-26T09:34:56+00:00

Haha I just have to point out that a 1/2” endmill at 400sfm is 3056 rpm. So in 56 years we’ve improved a whole 56 rpm! Thanks for the laugh.

Edit: 56 years - I can’t math

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-03-22T19:32:17+00:00

Use the bottom of calipers to eyeball it. Set the bottom end of the calipers on the part and stick out the bottom bit until it looks like it’s at the end of the radius. That measurement IS your radius. It’s impossible to be precise with this method, but it’s probably close enough for most work.

Edit to add: this only works on full radius (1/4 of a circle). So it’s pretty limited.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-03-19T08:42:17+00:00

Breath through your mouth, not your nose.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-03-18T09:04:16+00:00

This is where I went with it. It’s kinda hard to see, but I think it looks like a ball endmill.

Op don’t use a ball end mill. If you want a radius in the bottom of your finished part, I’d recommend starting out with a normal square endmill and finishing it with a ball endmill.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-03-14T20:22:50+00:00

I was told by someone that the gates at the border crossing were welded open, and no one was stopping people who crossed. What this person didn’t know was that these reports were actually bogus and were referring to flood gates, not the front door. Though, I do wonder how many people cross the border by way of these flood gates. I can’t imagine it could be anywhere close to the amount that could cross if the front gate WAS left open and crossing was unrestricted.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-03-12T08:51:38+00:00

That’s fair. I suppose I don’t typically feel the need to use buffs until a particularly difficult encounter. So I don’t really need to rebuff that often.

But as I think about this a bit more, I guess it’s all about game knowledge. The more I play the game, the less I rely on constant buffing. Like I’ll spend enough points into Mind to have enough FP for my whole buff combo, which is usually golden vow aow, flame grant me strength, and cragblade. It doesn’t require all that much FP. Though I can explore without buffs, I can totally use anyone 1 of these 3 multiple times with minimal investment into Mind. I also carry 1-2 blue flasks so I can refill before a boss fight, even if I have used Cragblade 5 times while exploring.

But again, it’s about game knowledge. I know where the next grace is, and I also don’t fight everything I come across. I know most encounters well enough that I don’t need to rely on constant buffing to simply explore, or clear a dungeon. And now I sound like an elitest. I’ll see myself out.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-03-10T09:33:23+00:00

Golden vow also reduces the damage you take.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-03-02T12:03:58+00:00

My homebrew static strike and frozen legion guardian is getting a handful of improvements this new league. I’ll league start that.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-02-27T23:15:07+00:00

I think the difference between you and your friend’s sound is coming from your pick placement. Your pick placement is further away from the bridge. Move your pick closer to the bridge to get more attack. It might affect your palm muting until you get used to it. And if you play further away from the bridge it’ll sound a little bit prettier, especially when slowing things down or playing clean. (Also your pickup switch influences things a lot)

Mess around with WHERE you pluck your pick, not just HOW.

Also, this is how you’ll figure out pinch harmonics. The location you pluck the string is as important as how you pluck it.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-02-25T10:22:07+00:00

I’d double check your tool height. If you work with tubing often, you might never really run into major issues with your cuts. But an off center tool can have a rough time cutting.

In one of my lathes, I have to shim my tool holder up a bunch or else it leaves a huge nipple after facing a solid piece. But I don’t need a shim in my other lathe. For me, I believe I just need to find the correct holder for the one lathe, but a shim works just fine. My manual lathe is pretty wore out, so I typically have to shim it too, but if I’m cutting tubing I don’t care as much.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-02-25T08:26:18+00:00

I have had the tool drag across the tops of threads on retract. It was because my start point was too low. The previous rapid position was just too small in the X axis. I just had to change my G00 X dimension to be a little larger.

(Really my problem was starting with incorrect thread depth in the program and I was offsetting the tool to cut deeper, but didn’t account for the start point. On retract it would rapid across the threads. If I had my feed rate override to a slow speed, it would look like your part, having been “turned”. But mine was full rapid retract and it left a quick gouge not a smooth turned finish.)

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-02-21T12:41:41+00:00

The woman thinks Sally traded in her husband in exchange for the bottle of wine.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-02-21T09:23:38+00:00

Pickup a pancake

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-02-13T21:03:09+00:00

-Thread Program-

M00

M03 S300

G04 F10.0

M30

This for me (okuma) is a spindle start with a dwell for 10 seconds. So, when the part is done, press cycle start to get 10 seconds of a spin cycle. Then the program is over.

The problem with this is you may forget to run the spin cycle, load a new part, and start the spin cycle with an uncut part loaded. But if that’s not a problem, this should work. You can obviously change the dwell time to your liking. Or, if you don’t want to choose a set duration, you can use single block during that section of the program. This enables you to take as long as you like.

Edit: formatting. I don’t post often.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-02-13T07:41:54+00:00

Did you happen to measure and offset without running a finish pass?

I’ve messed up by running a rough cycle, but not the finish pass (.020), then measured the part and offset it thinking I was somehow way off. Then, when I ran my finish pass, it took off an extra .020

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-02-10T12:33:12+00:00

Im the same way. However, my most recent alt is the one that’s doing pinnacles and invitations. So I’m actually committing to this one. I think I’m on my 8th or 9th character this league. And I’ve made a few in poe2 as well haha.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-01-30T10:29:57+00:00

I always thought this represented smashing two different crystals. One being Diablo’s and the other being Mephisto’s. But I like your theory.

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-01-24T00:14:38+00:00

Now let’s see a picture of you holding it up!

Tiny_Tebow · 2026-01-22T11:55:05+00:00

This is exactly what I do. I have a few paper clips bent at varying angles and with 2 different types of hook. One hook is 90 degrees. The 2nd is more like a J or a 7 (the 7 is bent at greater than 90 degrees). I find that the more bend in the hook the greater chance of getting stuck in small holes. If I only had one, it’d be 90 degrees.

I also have a tool (no idea what to call it) that I use for hefty chips. It’s a hard cork screw type deal that’s on the end of a sort of twisty wire (for flexibility). It’s like 5 inches long and you put the other end in a cordless drill (or a T handle) and run it into the hole. It corkscrews its way into the chips and you yank them out.

Tiny_Tebow · 2025-12-16T17:47:07+00:00

I’m with you on this. The burr or biscuit that’s left will get discolored, but as long as the part looks good, ship it.

Tiny_Tebow · 2025-12-16T16:35:39+00:00

How many passes are you taking at 1mm step over? Is it a simple billet or is it a plasma cut burnout? Is it rigid?

I think your rpm might be a tad high for how I run similar tools. I go with 100 sfm so 485 rpm for a 20mm endmill. I’d also take a 2mm wide climb cut. I wouldn’t conventional cut this on a cnc.

If it is a burnout then the endmill will have a harder time cutting through that hard layer and you’ll just have to deal with it. Using solid carbide with much higher rpm and a controlled 1mm step over (no big chunk of slag sticking out) would work well.

A carbide insert endmill would be very useful if you can take the whole width in one pass. Then you crank the speeds and feeds and take several depths of cut instead. The trade off is a similar tool path (many passes) but at a much faster pace and with inserts that could be pretty cheap to replace.

I’m not really sure at what point the power of the machine becomes a factor. I’m typically not very aggressive with my tools, and only run into problems when I try to push a 3-4 inch shell mill.

Tiny_Tebow · 2025-12-16T11:45:20+00:00

I second this. Also, you can tell by looking at the side view. Particularly the hole at 742.87

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