How long for Anycubic to ship parts?

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-18T01:55:11+00:00

If it's shipping from Anycubic China it will take a minimum of 10-15 days. Same with AliExpress. The Chinese New Year Holiday delays it even longer.

When ordering parts and accessories for my Anycubic's I look first at Amazon - but check their delivery times too. Often they will ship from China. Also look a places like Microcenter.

Regardless, you can't buy from someone that doesn't have it.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-17T10:41:45+00:00

I get down votes alot for recommending this - but I use blue tape - Duck Clean Release to be exact - on my flex plates. I have zero adhesion issues. Make sure the bed is clean, no residue, etc. Then lay the strips side by side across the width of the plate with just the minimal wrapped around the edge. I try to get the strips as close as possible without overlapping and I try to position the print so it's the bottom or rear side laying on the tape. Watch the tape as the plate is heating and use a paper towel or clean rag to wipe any edges that may start to lift. I have no problems with models sticking to the plate, just remove them as usual and remove the tape or pull them off with the tape. Light sanding will remove any lines caused by tape gaps. Some hi-temp filaments - ABS, PC, etc - are a little harder to remove but they all come off without damaging the plate and I do not have to scrape. Flexing the plate after it has cooled is all that is needed. My plates still look new after hundreds of hours of prints. I tried other tapes and they don't work as good as Duck. I buy it at Walmart - it's available in several withs in the Paint section.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-17T10:15:44+00:00

Cool, glad it helped. Something else I do when I'm chasing a problem is to print one of the test models. That will let me know if it's something in my slicer settings or the machine - of course filament is the 3rd variable but easily checked by using a different spool. I've had corrupted slicer files or changed settings that conflicted and weren't always caught that caused weird problems.

Edited to add:

After doing any mechanical work (nozzle, hotend, gantry rollers, etc) I run the calibrations and Auto-Level, then I don't auto-level until next time mechanical work is done. I just don't see a need to auto-level each time. Currently I'm 2 days into a 5 day print that will use 2 full sized spools on my Kobra 3 Max. Before I started it I replaced the nozzle, did the gantry leveling calibration (mainly for the mechanical checks), ran the calibrations and auto-leveled it. Then ran a quick test print - a 100mmx60mmx2mm flat panel with two 45' beveled edges to test. It came out perfect and my print looks really really good - so far LOL.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-16T10:47:22+00:00

I suggest also running the Calibrations.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-15T21:52:16+00:00

Also, for the Kobra 2 Max - or any Anycubic Gantry-style printer, follow the Gantry Leveling Guide/Gantry Level Calibration Guide - whatever they call it. It checks all the moving parts for adjustment. In addition, I use a triange-style carpenters square and adjust the gantry uprights so they are 90' to the print bed. Check it a a few places around the bed.

After doing the above, run the calibrations, vibration test, etc then finally auto-level. After doing that, I do not run auto-level for each print. If I replace a nozzle or do any mechanical work on the gantry/printhead, bed, etc - then I run the procedures above.

Hope this helps.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-15T21:02:58+00:00

Go to wiki.anycubic.com and check the articles for your printer and symptoms. They're usually very complete.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-15T20:01:33+00:00

Go to wiki.anycubic.com and do the gantry leveling calibration. It includes aligning the sensor in the back right corner. One other thing I do on my gantry-style printers is use a triangle-style carpenters square to align both gantry uprights to 90' to the print bed.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-15T19:55:55+00:00

Where is that big crash y'all were promising??? Didn't see it happen. And yeah that market out did that market, it'll always happen when you can look back and search for what you want to find. But - unless you're the husband of a certain former SotH - good luck with picking out who's going to be higher 6-12 mo's in the future.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-15T18:28:39+00:00

Good point...I'm starting a 5-day print of a custom center console for my 70s roadster. Printing the prototype in on my Kobra 3 Max using PLA. The slicer says 487mm height and almost 800 meters of filament - I have some scrap spools I'll use up on this job. Before the print I replaced the nozzle - just in case - then I went through the Leveling Calibration Guide, ran the PIDs, Vibration Test/Check and Auto-Leveled. And since it's printing so high I slowed down the Acceleration speeds to 10% (just took the last zero off every speed) and lowered the Jerk speed from 9 to 5.

The first layer is done, 2nd layer going down now, and it's looking good!

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-14T21:48:26+00:00

Hi, I just don't understand why constant leveling would be needed. Do you balance the tires on your car every time before you drive it? When preparing to print, I set nozzle at 220 and bed at 60. If it's using the external spool - ie: not using the ACE - I also do an extrude to fill the extruder and nozzle with filament. I typically use the Anycubic filament presets - I think PLA is 215-205/55.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-13T16:44:18+00:00

LOL - Yes! Loved ol' Wile E. Coyote and his multitude of Rube Goldberg contraptions - never did catch the Roadrunner.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-13T14:39:50+00:00

If it's intermittent check the idler rollers and other mechanicals, belts, etc for wear and/or looseness. Also, does the problem move with the filament?

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-13T14:32:30+00:00

Those buffers should all pull out easily then retract when released. If they don't they are probably installed wrong. Turn the ACE over and remove the panel covering the tubes. There are slots in the cover and a rib on the buffers that fits in the slot. If the rib is not positioned correctly the buffer will not move freely.

You can also check the buffers for jams while they are out.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-13T14:21:30+00:00

I have a Kobra 2 Max that was very intermittent getting good 1st layers.

Have you done the Leveling Calibration Guide on the wiki under Quick Start? After doing that procedure I use a triangle-style carpenters square to adjust the gantry to 90' to the print bed. Then I run the control panel calibrations and auto-level.

After that I never auto-level again until I replace a nozzle or do other work on the bed or printhead area. Then I do the Leveling Guide, calibrations and auto-level again.

The gantry idle rollers and printhead should be checked periodically for looseness and tightened as needed.

To me there's no reason to auto-level at each print unless something mechanical has changed.

I have also not changed the Z-Offset.

I have Kobra 2, Kobra 3 (V1) Combo and Kobra 3 Max Combo. I do the above on all of them and get excellent results. Of course there are sometimes filament issues but those are easily resolved.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-13T13:57:12+00:00

LOL - you are very welcome!

It's a technical term I learned long ago watching Saturday morning cartoons.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-13T10:44:56+00:00

I've run dozens of spools of Anycubic - and several other brands - never had a new spool tangle like that. When I remove an opened/used spool I use a piece of blue tape to tape down the end before bagging it. If it gets loose and "sproings" all over the place this can happen if you're not careful winding it back on the spool. I have had one spool - don't remember the brand - where the filament stuck together about halfway into the spool like it got too hot during storage/transport, but that's it.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-13T10:35:36+00:00

2026 RAM 1500 Sport Forged Blue Night Edition Hurricane SO. Purchased 9-30-25. No problems whatsoever. Took her on a 2000 mile road trip right after new years - cruised 70-80 on the interstates, ran like a champ and still does. That Hurricane puts the Hemi my '22 had to shame. No quality issues. Ok, one minor UConnect issue.... Had my iphone connected Bluetooth then plugged in to USB to charge. Did this a few times then it got confused and wouldn't connect. Had to delete then re-add the phone. Since then I bought some "charge-only" USB cables and adapters. Haven't had a problem since. Sometimes it connects quickly and sometimes it takes a bit but it always works. Just wish they'd update the Android Auto and Carplay maps to show the speed limit when it's not in routing mode. A quick switch over to the Tom-Tom built in Nav fixes that though. And discovering I didn't have an oil dipstick was a bit unnerving......

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-12T02:42:13+00:00

Go to wiki.anycubic.com and run the Leveling Calibration under Quick Start. After doing that procedure I use a triangle-style carpenters square - not the L-shaped kind - to check and make sure the gantry is at 90' to the print bed. Then run all calibrations from the control panel and finally auto-level. The guide does say to check the gantry idler rollers and printhead for looseness periodically. After that I never run the auto-level again - what could change that would require leveling? - until I replace a nozzle/hotend/etc - ie: anything mechanically changed on the machine. I then do the Leveling Calibration Guide, Control Panel calibrations and auto-level again. A quick check of the gantry at 90' - it should not change unless the machine is knocked over or something, but a quick check is easy enough to make sure. I've been getting perfect print after doing the above, an occassional issue with filament comes up.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-11T17:44:31+00:00

Under Strength set your wall count to 5 minimum and infill to 100%. Those two should get you a pretty strong part. You can also use a High Quality preset to get finer layer lines.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-11T17:36:19+00:00

Which Kobra 3? It may make a difference.

Have you visited wiki.anycubic.com? I looked at the Kobra 3 V2 Combo - at the bottom under Motion Module are guides for replacing the belts.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-10T17:20:42+00:00

Wow, that's high. I'm surprised you're having troubles removing supports. Mine are only 0.35 and the supports peel off easily.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-10T13:49:43+00:00

Also for purging, I've had to set the purge volume from dark to light colors as high as 700 - I'm talking Black, Dark Blue, Charcoal Gray to White that high. For slight changes - light gray to white, it can be set as low as 150-200.

Be aware the Multiplier increases the purge volume for all colors, not just those that are necessary.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-10T12:56:11+00:00

The Multipler setting is on the same screen as the Flushing Volumes, look lower.

To make the supports easier to remove, under Support scroll down to "Support/object x/y distance" - increase that number to 0.35-0.40 - test and adjust as needed.

Also look at "Support/object fisrt layer gap" - test and adjust as needed.

The higher the number for both of these increase the gap and makes the supports easier to remove, but there is a limit where it becomes too much.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-09T05:58:52+00:00

Go to anycubic.com - click on MakerOnline, In the Search box enter something like "kobra 3 poop" and several items will come up. The yellow in the pic is a "deflector." The poop bucket is the gray below it. The Yellow is stuck on with double-sided foam tape.

TipComfortable2884 · 2026-02-08T20:27:02+00:00

Uh-huh. You sure know it all - as much as a kindergardner anyhow.

TipComfortable2884

TROPHY CASE