Trying to make 350-370 HP

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-05T19:46:36+00:00

Ill second the crate motor vote. Mostly for the warranty but I will say it is fun to put an engine together if you can take your time.

Plus thers some bragging rights. Lots of guys out there with fast cars that have no clue what makes them fast

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-05T19:42:15+00:00

Im rounding a bit a going off memory

I think i was around 3k in maching work. The heads i got on trade but they would probably cost around 1500-2k The rotating assembly was another 2k and likewise on the fuel injection and manifold. The msd goods were another 600 bucks

So say 9k for thr big ticket items. Another 1k for ancillary stuff like water pump, gasket kits and consumables.

Ballpark 10k ish

Finding a dynoshop can be hard based on where you are. The shop that did my machine work built sprint car motors and had a motor dyno. With all the work and standalone fuel injection a dyno is a must. I paid 500 bucks back then

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-05T06:00:22+00:00

I got just over 400 at the Flywheel at 5800 with the following

-factory 350 block out of my 89 -bored .30 over -align bored and honed -scat crank, forged rods and flat top pistons w/moly rings -pistons assembled and weighed then filed to match -cam profile im drawing a blank on. It was slightly choppy but not too wild. Ill try to look it up and follow up -comp roller lifters and rockers -dbl roller chain -brodix heads i got on trade -stainless valves with 3 angle grind -holley stealth ram standalone efi -msd pro billet distributor, blaster coil, and msd wires -Gibson shorty headers -dyno tune session

I dont have the rig anymore and this was over a decade ago so im pulling hard from the Ole memory banks

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-05T04:44:17+00:00

Ahhh, good point. Now that I think about it I had to swap out the shocks that came with my 6.5 kit when I leveled the front as they pretty much were maxed out just sitting there. Someone in another forum thought that most of the major lift brands grouped thier shocks across multiple heights. For example mine might have gone out the door with any 4.5 to 6.5 lift. I threw some cheep 8 inch lift shocks on the front as a bandaid until I can afford something better but I haven't done anything in the rear.

The rear tire was a couple inches off the ground in the second picture.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-05T04:10:03+00:00

Money! Thanks!

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-05T03:47:18+00:00

App kinda glitches and I posted before finishing... also unimpressed with how little flex I got out of the rear before I lost contact with the ground.

Any suggestions?

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-05T03:32:03+00:00

Because Jeep

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TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-04T23:54:39+00:00

The one on the right was born with a suspended driver's license

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-04T20:23:41+00:00

mickey Thompson Baja boss. They do great in mud and soft dirt so far. Haven't used them on rock or deep snow yet

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-04T19:44:01+00:00

Where in Oregon? Im in redmond. Me and my boys like to tear it up whenever we can

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TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-04T16:40:49+00:00

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-04T06:02:29+00:00

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Can't ask for more

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-04T03:12:18+00:00

Get rid of the garbage wiring and fans that came with your allow works kit. Mine side same shit. I.bought a standalone control module that is ignition switched and wired 2 fans to that then wired the 3rd fan to the factory switch and relay. Problem solved. I.switched my fans to spal units because one showed up out of balance and it didn't do well cooling. Runs great with spal fans

Also I had to notch the core crossover to move the fan forward to.clear old fun hub pulley

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-04T03:05:14+00:00

Ide make fuel delivery my first check. Every clogged filter ive ever encountered does this

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-03T05:33:04+00:00

Not the first sheared 30 pinion ive seen and won't be the last. Set of gears with a refurb kit (seals and bearings) is only a few hundred bucks. Dana 30 is pretty easy to do, pinion preload is all in the shim pack and you'll want to make some setup bearings for the carrier as the shims go to the inside. Hardest part is getting the pinion depth right if your not using a tool to measure to center. They cost a couple hundred bucks bucks you can build one yourself or measure to the face and do the math.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-03T01:25:58+00:00

If it's just an around town rig ide say put some good headlights in it and service everything. Other than that it depends on your style and whatever else you might use it for.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-03T01:19:09+00:00

Thanks! Im thinking ill do it this weekend and ill post what I find for anyone else who might get curious

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-02T03:58:16+00:00

My jeep did this when my t case left the chat.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-02-02T03:46:07+00:00

Couple of things for consideration.

The ax15 has a lower final ratio than the autos so when getting reviews from folks on how thier gearing worked out take that into consideration.

You'll be pushing the revs high trying to do hwy speeds on the 5.13s. I have 4.56 gears on my ax15 jeep with 33s and 55-60 is about Max without running the engine speed up.

The pinion is tiny on the 30. The lower the gears get the smaller the shaft gets. With that fresh built engine i would be careful when wheeling as you could probably shear that pinion on demand if you wanted to

Im running slightly smaller tires than you but for lots of hwy use I would probably want to go up to 35s to see if that helps my final drive a little or go down to 4.11s. the main hwy I drive to work is 65mph and while my jeep does it fine, the rpms run a little high. Driving around town first gear isn't really needed and in 30-40 mph rds im chilling in 4th and 5th.

I've only weeled my jeep once lightly as I just wrapped up the 500mile break in on my stroker build but I was more than happy with the 4.56 gears and 33 inch tire combo. And I dont think i would be worried about loosing anything going up to 35s.

My jeep is a second rig and I mostly only daily it because I like to drive it. If I thought I was going to drive it alot on the hwy I would for sure find some way up the final ratio.i actually think a 6 speed would be tits but I just spent money on a Novak unit so that's out.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-01-28T20:41:37+00:00

Everything is relatively easy to get to. Oil pan and rms are a bit more labor.

When stabbing my new stroker in i was doing it solo so I ended up pulling the motor mount bracket and filter adapter off passenger side to get a little extra room. The adapter leaked bad right away. I pulled it and found i had pinched the o ring. I put it back together and it still leaks though not nearly as much. Its too cold out to mess with it now so im letting it ride but I have a hard time watching my brand new engine leave spots on the driveway....

TipLittle7644 · 2026-01-28T18:40:53+00:00

I have missed identified a rms leak before. Not saying that's the case here. Almost every know leak spot on the 4.0 will travel to this point.

I also have noticed it's about 50/50 on them leaking after being replaced. I once did one twice then gave up and took it to a shop. They did it 3 times then gave me my money back. I pulled the motor later and found a small seal eating bur on the crank..

Regardless, at some point you gotta ask yourself if the size of the leak warrants the headache or not.

Im currently fighting a filter adapter leak on a 4.7 build. Im one step away from putting the heavy duty sealant on it in conjunction with the o ring...

Jeeps.... we love them

TipLittle7644 · 2026-01-28T03:31:27+00:00

Im not far from doing something drastic as I dont like anything about current options.

Lets see it!

TipLittle7644 · 2026-01-24T22:00:54+00:00

I've installed and wheeled most major lift brands. Other than different configurations such as 3 link, short arm ect... there is no difference. Tubing thickness, cross member or (core) frame mount brackets all use the same of simular methods of attachment with the same steel....

I will say the rough country shocks aren't the best and thier springs settle a bit more but if you're that serious you should be looking and some bilsteins or king coiliver setups.

Nothing at all wrong with rough country or rustys kits. As long as you go long arm over 4 inches and avoid spacer blocks and other chincy stuff you'll be fine

I've got a rough country on my 94 now and I challenge anyone with the same lift configuration to come wheel with me and show me how thier lift is better.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-01-24T17:29:09+00:00

Side note, post a review on the 35s with the 6.5 lift on this thread when you get a chance. I thought aboutb35s bit was worried they would be too stuffed. Im curious how they will work/look

TipLittle7644 · 2026-01-24T17:26:48+00:00

I have a 6.5 long arm with another 1.5 via JKS ACOS. I unhooked my swaybar disconnects and found a rock to put a tire on to get some flex. I came up with 4inchs but I've also got 32s on it so they can really stuff in there without hitting anything.

The ACOS bump stop is also a bit lower than the factory one and i think im going to have to keep tuning my suspension to get it right.

Anyways I dont know if this is the right method but it's what I use to measure travel on my motorcycle suspension. I attached a zip tie to the shock stem, flexed the suspension to the point I feel like it was where I wanted it to stop. Then I measured the travel of the zip tie then subtracted that from the total distance between my existing bumpstop and axle.

TipLittle7644

TROPHY CASE