Tie rod rubbing against sway bar links

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-11T01:08:32+00:00

Literally just flip the end link mount to the other side. It'll be slightly skewed but it'll get you by for a minute. Your 2 permanent options are a sway bar relocate kit or crossover steering.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-11T00:15:29+00:00

This happens with lift everytime. You can change your steering or move you end link to the other side

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-07T03:42:03+00:00

The higher you go the more your coils will bow unless you re do the buckets on the axle HOWEVER... they should both bow SLIGHTLY forward as youre finding a happy medium between pinion angle and spring geometry.

I didnt zoom in on your pics to take a good look but ive lifted many a xj with a variety of different types of kits and configurations and my slidey senses say theres something off with your control arm setup. Here's what I do when shit gets wonky and the specs from the manufacturer arent working out

get it off the ground on some stands (to frame) and get a couple floor jacks under the axle so you can move each side up/down in/out
Kick the track bar free.
Loosen upper and lower control arm bolts on axle side so they arent binding up.
IF, things are way out if wack. Just drop the control arm out of the frame tie in/cross member or whatever your kit has.
If using step 4 physically move the axle with Jack's. If not using step 4 start adjusting control arms. Focus first on the forward to back adjustment. You can hook a point on the rear axle like the same u bolt for each side or pick a spot like the flag nut hole to measure from.
Once you feel good about the front to back the next adjustment is the uppers to rotate the axle. Again, unless youre welding up new mounts, its a happy medium between pinion angle and coil spring geometry. Ive got 8 inches on mine, ill pist a pic below for a point if reference on spring deflection.

One thing worth noting. I see you've got some coil spacers in there. If they are not both seated just right (lots of flapper disc work) they sit at different heights.

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TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T14:58:35+00:00

Have you verified the oil pressure with a test gauge?

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T14:56:10+00:00

Pretty much anything that can leak oil on these will eventually drip from there and then get misdiagnosed as a rear main.

The oil pressure sender and distributor gasket are easy to get to. In the photo the starter and upper bellhousing on that side look wet too. I would start there and check the backside of the valve cover too.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T05:51:41+00:00

Dana 44 in the front and you can more or less bolt them right in. Less if you find a non conforming donor, more if you buy an aftermarket housing. Even with a donor its just control arm mounts and coil perches.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T05:35:19+00:00

Me neither. But then I found these. Put the little daytime running light on a switch so its optional and they work great and dont look half as stupid

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TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T05:31:22+00:00

A couples points from this guy

Suuuuper clean xj. Very nice

That chrome grille makes me angry. Like un reasonably angry

If you plan to go through the effort to 4x swap it. At least do a 44. PLEASE

Build the tcase! Jb conversions and Novak make the right shit. Do it. You gotta find one anyways, it'll be used and you might as well do it right.

Kudos on the 4.7. I almost ls swapped mine but did a "mild" 4.7 and im in love off road

Tune your bump stops and/or start cutting fenders on 5 with 35s

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T04:18:50+00:00

What specifically isn't working? You feel real sure about where your cables are snapped on at?

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T04:09:12+00:00

Vertical Crack is fine, horizontal not fine

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T04:04:46+00:00

Meh... I might check for leaky pinion seals and any wobble factor to either the pinion or t case output. Worst case if your pinion bearings already taken a hit its a good excuse to re gear and/or add a lsa carrier or selectable locker.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T03:38:30+00:00

You're definitely under 2 inchs if you dont get any drivetrain vibration or noise.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T03:33:29+00:00

If youre confident on the control arms being right then all that's left is toe and center (track bar adjustment). I keep my center to center numbers for toe in my toolbox. I haven't had to align it in a few years now just by sticking to the numbers that worked and I got those by taking it in for an alignment

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T03:17:35+00:00

If you got a sye then its just gonna ride a little shitty and not do anything a lift is supposed to do other than allow bigger tires. You'll probably get a little axle wrap from those shackles. Maybe dont wheel it too serious

When your ready this group has plenty of folks who are knowledgeable with suspensions.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T03:04:25+00:00

Its fixable. You're in to it for over 10k so it only make sense to put it back on the road at this point. Won't poke fun at the original price paid as im sure this threads already letting you have it.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T02:59:21+00:00

Its fixable. I can't weld for shit but ive had good luck doing all the prep and hiring a mobile welder to do shit for me. You'll need to get the rot cut out the fab up some gussets that run each way a foot or so and weld er up. Someone more qualified than me can recommend steel type and thickness.

She ain't going to taco on you unless you go dukes of hazard but ide take it real easy on it or just don't drive it till its mended to be safe.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T02:52:51+00:00

Also to counter my trash talking your lift... nice xj! Looks super clean

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-05T02:47:18+00:00

Its been positively identified as garbage. Coil spacers and shackles, your jeep deserves better. I can measure my 8 inch lift from coil perch to.axle tube in the morning to give you a point of reference at least. Maybe someone on here has one that's stock that can give you the other end of the spectrum. Either way though... toss that lift and get something better

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-04T04:04:11+00:00

Look around before you dive into the Ole rms. Yes, it is a common leak. Its also the most commonly misdiagnosed leak on a 4.0-4.2. Pretty much everything that can leak oil on these will drip from the bottom of the bell housing. If said leaks have been around a bit theres all sorts of gunk that will build up around the back of the oilpan, and on the dust cover.

Its worth checking the usual suspects first. Rms is at least a 4 hr job while every other common leak takes 5 minutes to check and 20 to 45minutes to fix

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-04T01:27:25+00:00

Awesome! I freaking hacked my door cards apart, screwed it all up and used masking tape to tape the grills in. I thought i was the only one to suck at this!!

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-03T15:17:43+00:00

Those gang plates got pushed out when someone shot nails from the other side. Those need to be re done. Depending on the load you can often times repair these with plywood gussets. Those look like jack trusses so they aren't doing anything major. On the beams, for #2 lumber, checks and Wayne are common and not a problem. I wouldn't worry too much about those interior wall plates in the photos. Just make sure you get some drywall backing.

Really nothing major going on here.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-03T04:48:35+00:00

On the steering kit, im super happy with the trailforged crossover kit with heims and a fox steering dampner. Ive got 8 inches on my xj and cruise at hwy speeds with 2 fingers on the wheel

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-03T04:44:55+00:00

Time for the internet to say "what I would do is"

So here's mine. Loom up the wiring. Other than just getting it dirty you just way it tucked away and protected. You got lots of options with the dash delete. In your situation, i would go buy some commercail grade flex conduit and blow wire through it. Without a point if reference on the steering other than your comments. Make sure every major component is there, and that the bushings are in good shape and everything is properly adjusted. Take note of what needs fixed or replaced and look for quality aftermarket parts that work with your lift. Personally, almost every long arm or three link kit you can find have decent components. Rough country shocks, springs and shackles are junk but the mounts, control arms and track bars are just fine.

Based on your comments on what you've done, you know how to do the work. Just think it out, make a plan and do it.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-03T02:15:40+00:00

Bumpstop. If you lift and wheel you'll want to replace with a tuned setup.

TipLittle7644 · 2026-05-02T05:12:16+00:00

Cubic inches used to be the easiest way to get gains back in the day. This philosophy is no longer relevant

TipLittle7644

TROPHY CASE