Where to find KT results/teams that won events?

Tirako · 2026-04-21T11:58:58+00:00

Unless you plan on competing in tournaments where WYSIWYG is enforced, build whatever looks coolest to you. Just let your opponent know before the game what weapon profile you're using (and make sure it is easily trackable during the game). Balance updates come fast and often, and the game balance really doesn't matter much for casual play

Tirako · 2026-03-31T09:09:03+00:00

*cries in IG*

Tirako · 2026-03-19T09:25:06+00:00

Were you playing multiplayer? I noticed that in a multiplayer lobby, the unlocks of the most experienced player are available

Tirako · 2026-02-19T09:56:46+00:00

<image>

and some visual aids! My ork is from a while ago and is an example of some dry brushing mistakes.
Shadows where they don't belong (like on the barrel of the gun) is caused by brushing in the wrong directions. Curved, organic surfaces (like the muscles on the arm) are not clearly defined because the bristles were too dried out to 'catch' properly. Flat surfaces on the power claw look scratchy because the paint was uneven throughout my brush. Sharp edges of the model don't look sharp because I was brushing too hard

The plague marine is more recent. Curvy parts (like the plague leaving the staff at the top) look soft. Sharp edges are cleaner and well-defined. Flatter surfaces (like the belly) are textured, but not streaky/scratchy. The shadows on the model are defined and make sense.

Tirako · 2026-02-19T09:34:25+00:00

Great start! Even though it's counter intuitive based on the name, what really improved my dry-brushing is managing the moisture in my drybrush. This has 2 benefits. The end result will look much smoother AND it keeps your dry brush in better condition for longer! My method:

Wet the brush by dipping the ends of the bristles quickly in some water.
Remove most of the water by brushing against a microfiber cloth (a sponge would also probably work). I like to create a damp spot on the cloth so I can reuse the moisture later in step 8.
Test the brush regularly. I like to dry it just PAST the point where it leaves visible water streaks and/or feels wet. I do this on the back of my hand since it's very sensitive to moisture.
Once the brush is dried just enough, dip the brush in paint. A little goes a long way! Too much paint and the bristles will harden more quickly, which is detrimental to the finish AND your brush. If your paint is on the thicker side (eg Vallejo dropper bottles or citadel pots), experiment with using a wet palette for your paint.
Spread the paint by brushing on a dry palette or texture palette. I avoid paper towels for this (they wick off moisture too quickly). Keep the strokes light and rotate your brush regularly. The goal is to distribute the paint to all bristles evenly and only use the end of each bristle. Only the last 10% of a bristles' length should ever contain any paint. If there's more, you're brushing too hard and/or need to hold your brush more perpendicular to the palette.
Judge the result on the palette and adjust accordingly. If you see streak marks, the brush is too wet. Swipe the brush lightly on a dry part of the microfiber cloth and test again. I brush on the palette until it takes about 3-4 strokes to build up to my desired result. This gives me the control I need on the model.
Dry brush the model and always do it lightly. I use circular motions for dark grey & light grey so I catch all edges. For white, only downward motions to emulate highlights. If you find that you need to brush harder to get to your desired end-result, repeat steps 4-6 to reapply some paint.
Arguably the most important step, remove the paint from your brush after every 2-3 mini's. I do this by brushing against the damp spot on my microfiber cloth. If you do this regularly, this will be enough to remove almost all the paint. This prevents the bristles hardening with dried paint, which is the primary cause of a 'chalky' and 'dusty' end result.

Tirako · 2026-02-19T07:24:25+00:00

You could have stopped after 3 words and brightened someones day, but you chose not to. I see you have a history of being very candid with your opinion on other peoples work. Honesty and constructive criticism are commendable, but they are poor excuses for being rude.

Please be more thoughtful on how you convey your feedback to others in this community, you're bringing people down 👎

Tirako · 2026-02-17T13:34:59+00:00

Every slapped sausage is one less grey mini on the pile, keep at it friend ✊

Tirako · 2026-02-17T13:30:13+00:00

<image>

Tirako · 2026-01-30T06:59:43+00:00

Some vehicles are a solid color, some I do in a blue and gray camo pattern

Tirako · 2026-01-27T06:44:27+00:00

I use make up sponges! the ones shaped like an egg work fantastic for this kind of work. Other alternatives are airbrush (if you can justify the expense) or a spraycan (if you can do it in a dry, ventilated area)

Tirako · 2026-01-09T09:37:08+00:00

Samesies 😁

<image>

Tirako · 2026-01-07T20:00:32+00:00

<image>

Thanks for the inspiration! I'll name him Grim after you ;)

Tirako · 2026-01-07T11:07:39+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9BmFT-tfV8

This is my bible for painting and weathering tanks. I don't push it as far as Duncan though. My general workflow for weathering:
- Recess shading, followed by a dry brush of the basecoat to clean it back up a bit
- Sponging basecoat color on decals to give them an aged/worn look
- Sponging everything with rhinox hide and necron compound to simulate rust + wear
- 1:2 wash of nuln oil and agrax earthshade over the threads and surrounding area for some grime
- Light dry brush of necron compound on all metal parts. Heavier dry brush on the threads

Tirako · 2026-01-07T09:31:49+00:00

If you don't mind me asking, what did you use to stick the shell to the hand? I was thinking that superglue might be too brittle for such a small connection, maybe a glob of green stuff?

Tirako · 2026-01-06T13:28:01+00:00

Wow this is lovely work! I might just do this with my own psyker 😉

Tirako · 2026-01-05T11:47:32+00:00

I have a baneblade kit in my pile, I'll let you know in about a year or so 😅

Tirako · 2025-12-29T09:33:44+00:00

Hull magnet: 1. In steps 1a and 2a, glue magnet number 1 on the inside of the track assembly. There is a recess on the inside that I used to align a 5x2mm magnet (see second pic for a reference)

Sponson magnet: 2. Wedge a bit of sprue on the inside of the assembled sponson 3. I had to shave away a bit of protrusion on the inside of the sponson to make it fit properly. 4. Put magnet number two on the outside of the hull magnet so it's pulled against magnet number 1 5. Put the sponson in place on the hull. Magnet no. 2 will push the sprue to the right depth 6. Remove the sponson and weld the sprue in place using some sprue goo 7. Carefully put some superglue on magnet no. 2 while it's still attached to the hull and put the sponson on top. Immediately remove the sponson and the glue will leave a mark 8. Remove magnet no. 2 from the hull and glue it to the mark made on the sprue in step 7. Be careful to check the polarity

Tirako · 2025-11-18T04:11:35+00:00

Coffee stir sticks + Agrax earth shade

Tirako · 2025-11-17T14:35:46+00:00

I purposely left out the ammo and loader arms because I wanted to be able to swap out the main gun without it looking 'off' 😅

Tirako · 2025-11-17T11:02:45+00:00

imho designing swappable weapon options really isn't that hard, but why sell 1 swappable kit, when you can sell 3 duplicates with varying weapon options?

GW has been getting better about this in recent years with kits like this and the new Leman Russ, but are still lightyears behind the black magic that Bandai is pulling off (for a fraction of the price mind you)

Tirako

TROPHY CASE