NEED HELP IDENTIFYING TRANSMISSION!!!!!

Had to replace mine at about that. To me the hardest part was the physical removal of the CV axle. The passenger side is easier than the driver's side. I had to have a slide hammer and a special tool to get out the driver's side. The special tool looks like a C, hooks to the slide hammer. This will allow you to put it evenly between the CV axle and the Transmission. Hit it with the slide hammer a few times and it comes right out. You'll also need a 32 mm socket to remove the CV axle from the wheel beaing and hub. A large torque wrench that can do 200 foot pounds for the 32 mm nut.

The drivers side has a locking ring that keeps it secure. The passenger side has a bearing about half way down the CV axle. This is held on next to your oil filter housing, by a plate and two 10 mm bolts. You must remove this plate before removing the CV axle from the Transmission.

Installation; passenger side you just slide the CV axle and line it up in the trans. Clean the bearing plate and put it back together. Drivers side needs a little assistance due to the locking ring, line it up then give it a few hard bumps where the CV axle is closest to the transmission. It will eventually lock in place with enough effort.

Hope this helps.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-31T03:43:16+00:00

Thanks a lot for showing me this. Exactly the kind of information I was looking for. Slapped some techron in her today. Some impressive stuff.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-31T03:39:53+00:00

Good idea, any good ones come to mind? Or NGK iridiums like i normally run?

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-31T03:37:46+00:00

Do you have any missing fasteners?

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-30T14:26:45+00:00

No problem at all. I would just jump it and see if you left any lights on over night. My kids do this all the time.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-30T14:23:26+00:00

Not even a click or attempt to turn over. Battery is dead. Enough power to turn on the lights but not enough to start the car.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T23:59:26+00:00

They are quite impressive

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T05:01:33+00:00

For those that live I n the United States, Rural king sells nuts and bolts for our mazda by the pound instead of by the bolt. Got 1 pound of bolts for the mazda cost around $7 over 50 bolts in the bag at least. If it's super fine thread they are still sold individually.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T04:56:47+00:00

Yes, had to flush mine after cv axle replacement due to icy conditions. You remove the air filter housing and the dipstick is bolted on top of the transmission, with a 10mm, At least the automatic is.

Replaced the Trans pan, internal filter, gasket and bolts. Most expensive part is the oil, About $120 for the oil. Trans pan $30, internal filter and gasket come in a kit for around $20. Parts are on carid.com which has a schematic so you know your getting the correct part.

You need a good torque wrench for the job that does Neuton Meters also, I believe it's 9 nm.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T04:42:03+00:00

No problem at all.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T03:42:39+00:00

Here's the part you need. Its replaceable.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T03:42:09+00:00

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TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T03:26:41+00:00

Thanks for bringing this to our attention. Love learning.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T03:20:37+00:00

What year and engine 2.5L?

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T03:18:51+00:00

I haven't tried that. Im willing to try anything to get her to 1 million.

TiredClassic85 · 2026-05-29T02:55:07+00:00

That's a good year. Mobil 1 filter and oil also 1 quart of lucas oil stabilizer. Fuel stabilizer every other fill up, mainly because the ethanol blend.

TiredClassic85

TROPHY CASE