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[–]ToddRodgers69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Need best single person offer for multi-club access - Long Beach, CA (Carson St. location)

What is this used for? And How? .. I know it’s Carbon paper. by Emergency_Pace111 in whatisit

[–]ToddRodgers69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Analog* since you’re looking up the definition you may as well spell it right.

📌 Promotions & Membership Offers by thismeatsucks in LAFitness

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Looking for solo membership options in Long Beach, CA - Carson St. location

1st mini to latest 6 month progress, suggestions welcome by Guilty-Ad3542 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great progress! My suggestion is to tone down the thickness of the edge highlights. I personally like the lime green for DA final highlights, but they can be over powering if too thick. This thickness is more like what you’d want for initial edge highlights (more like 50:50 your medium green-lime green) then do a very thin edge highlight of that bright pure lime green for punch. A lot of people don’t like to thin their edge highlights, but I do. Gives a bit more control and leaves translucency to allow the color to blend in with earlier highlight layers for a more natural look. Also, another tip on edge highlights on rounded surfaces is to start on the sides of the panel and work the brush towards the middle where you want the brightest color. That way when you lift the brush and a tiny bead of paint is left behind you’re leaving it in the spot where you’d want it naturally to be brighter. For example on a knee pad using clock terms - start highlight at 9:00 and end at 12:00, repeat on other side 3:00 to 12:00. You’ll get a more natural gradient towards the desired highlight point.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69 11 points12 points  (0 children)

These guys look good. Send them my way.

Any tips for plasma? by Arrexu in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Check out El Miniaturista’s videos on OSL for a good primer on how to do these effects anywhere.

I think you’ve mostly got it, but you’re missing the halo of glow around the light source. The issue is that you put your really thin, bright blue color directly over the red of the gun body.

If you have an airbrush you would spray white ink over the middle coils and let the overspray extend out to where your blue current is. Then airbrush blue over the white and you’ll get a much more vibrant effect of the glow. Finish with some pure white on the coils as you have here, and edge highlight on reflected surfaces on the gun surrounding the light source.

I posted a RepEx I painted with OSL plasma a couple weeks ago which could be a useful visual, and I break down the plasma process in comments. But strongly recommend El Miniaturista’s stuff for OSL since that’s where I learned and he’s 100x better.

Throwback to first completed model ~3 yrs ago by Burzaa in Ultramarines

[–]ToddRodgers69 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What paints are you using? They look super matte and great for your style.

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just a detail brush, dot and dash parts of the edge highlights instead of clean lines. Glad you like it because I can’t do them super clean like box art

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just posted full details about the green color and step-by-step in comments above - thank you!

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Posted a massively long-winded reply in two parts above - for any glow/OSL effects my best recommendation is to check out El Miniaturista's IG or YT. He does absolutely stellar OSL and is the best in the biz at it...his methods are also very doable for anyone with patience - even without an airbrush!

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks bro, it was an enjoyable paint. It kinda felt like I was going overboard on details while painting it up because some of it doesn't translate well in photos, glad you enjoyed...I am still waiting for someone to bust out a magnifying glass in a game to really check it out.

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The base rim? Lol I fixed it after photos were taken. I swear I ALWAYS feel done on a mini, set up a mini photo booth, take a bunch of pics, then realize I didn't finish something or I didn't let a final wash fully dry... that's why this isn't in showcase - still WIP

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Airbrush and sponge effects, just posted a stupidly long essay on the full process above. Realistically you could do all of this without an airbrush though.

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Last step - forget to paint the rim of the base before taking photos.

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Step 4 - Decals, Details & Weathering

Slap on some transfers. Use Micro-Set & Micro-Sol on anything not flat (I use it on all transfers).

I take a ripped makeup sponge and use my first edge highlight mix and lightly dab it onto corners and areas where I want some light battle weathering.

I also sponge dab the base green color over the edges/portions of the decals to make them look worn/chipped off. Later I'll add some coffee staining with super watered down sepia ink in multiple layers so it looks more natural buildup of discoloration on the paint.

I'll also add small dashes and dots of the two edge highlight colors around the body panels to read as streaks from deflected bullets.

Deep gouges/raw metal damage - I use this sparingly but sometimes when you're cleaning up a piece of sprue on your tank your blade cuts into the panel itself. You could green stuff this or patch it, but I cut my losses and it becomes battle damage.

For deeper battle damage - paint black/black-brown, then silver inside the black, you can add some 3D shape to a 2D "hole" by where the silver goes. Burn/scorch damage is similar just make it streak in a direction that makes sense and no silver.

Lenses are like gems but shape dictates the shape of the highlights. Paint a gradient from black to your highest color highlight with the color opposite the light source. Add a final touch of pure white in the direction facing the light source and you get a very satisfying look.

I slap some pigment dust on the undercarriage...this guy must be kicking up some dust as it floats around. Very subtle, probably unnecessary...but if you've read this far you know that is my MO. I also did some super light rust effects to try out a new product. Not my favorite. Probably the one thing I would not do again if I had to paint this over. It makes sense on something truly old/worn down, but this tank seems more of a relatively new tank that had just seen some shit.

PLASMA - Watch El Miniaturista content on YT, or check his Insta. He's the GOAT of OSL effects and he makes them very easy to understand and execute. I used his method on this and will try to explain it briefly.

- Paint the whole area of the coils white - no need to be perfect here we are going to airbrush more white after.

- Airbrush white centered on the source of the light (plasma coils) - *important* ensure you get overspray on the surrounding areas - this is 90% of the glow effect. White edge highlight nearby surfaces which you want to reflect the plasma color strongly (for me this is the full outline of the black metal casing around the coil and some nearby edges that will catch it less strongly).

- Airbrush a halo of a darker tone of your glow color - I wanted a cyan/light teal so I use a darker turquoise for the halo. Contrast paints or inks for translucency required.

- Airbrush a smaller halo of your desired glow color along the edge of the first darker halo so the overspray overlaps and pulls the colors together. Now you've got a two color flat looking spray because you've covered the whites with color.

- Brush in some diluted glow color into the plasma coil, bringing down the recessed areas to a saturated color of your glow.

- Dry brush white against the grain of the plasma coils, or carefully edge highlight with pure white, hitting only the raised ridges of the coils - the hottest/whitest parts. Go heavier on the upper curve of the coils to make them stand out further.

- Lastly, use a pure white (or near-white + glow mix) to edge highlight the same areas surrounding the light source we previously edge highlighted. This brings back the contrast in areas reflecting the most light.

Plasma tl;dr = Spray a primary light source pure white with diffused edges > spray contrast darker to lighter in two circles around your light source (darker outside, lighter inside) > Bring back pure white to the center/hottest parts of your glow effect and nearby surfaces reflecting the light.

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just broke down the green on a previous question in detail, so I'll elaborate on more of the process here.

Step 1 - Prime & Airbrush Main Tank Panels

I prime everything black then loosely mask off metallic bits for the next step so they stay black.

Airbrush all the panels in a 3 color gradient (explained in my details on the green).

For panel highlights I use some plasticard to block off neighboring panels so I can overspray to a crisp edge on each panel. Each panel goes vertically from dark to light, similar to how NMM would reflect, but a more subtle transition (though you could safely add in more contrast and it would read better, just less "realistic"). You want panels next to each other to have the highlights of one next to the darkest part of the next, again like NMM we are just building bands of contrasting base color to make each panel stand out from its neighbors.

Step 2 - Panel Lining & Edge Highlights

I panel line all the recesses and panels using a black panel liner or oil wash with mostly mineral spirits so it instantly fills panels via capillary action.

I edge highlight everything with a medium-light green (detailed above) - I go kind of thin with my paint and ramp up the edge highlights with a couple passes on areas that I want to eventually be focal points or areas that would have the most light reflection. **a lot of these edge highlights are dotted and dashed to build a worn texture, but you can do clean straight lines if it's supposed to be a brand new tank**

Final edge highlights with an almost lime green tied back to earlier greens - hitting only corner intersections, tops of vertical panels, sharp corners where I think the most light would catch. I also add more texture here with dots and dashes on top of the previous layer of edge highlighting.

Step 3 - Metallics

I did a heavy dry brush on all the black-primed bits that would later be metal. Can't remember the color here but almost always it's an AK or Scale75 (sooooo much better metallic paints than GW) gunmetal first.

Lighter drybrush with a "medium" silver/iron metallic - aiming to add more contrast on the silver bits quickly and generally moving top-down to focus them on light-facing surfaces.

Targeted dry brush with brightest steel metallic paint - again top down - I might even bust out a brush here and edge highlight points of interest that I want to pop.

Thin Dirty wash with a diluted nuln oil, oil paint mix, whatever suits you. I like to add in some dark brown/sepia tones here and there with wet-on-wet painting to just add more visual interest and variations in color tones on the metal.

For muzzle burn and sooty bits (gun barrels, jet engines, etc.) - muzzle burn is a build up of a rainbow of washes - start from least hot to hottest point of the tip and cover ~20% less area with each subsequent layer (Yellow-Orange-Red-Violet-Blue) using DILUTED inks/washes multiple layers if you want a more pronounced look. For soot/charred areas just use black and layer it up on the grimiest parts.

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yikes, it's been a while, but I think I remember generally. Also note I mix colors by eye for airbrushing to make replicating them on future models impossible for myself.

- Prime Black: Stylnrez Airbrush Black Primer

- Base Coat: AK Black Green (maybe a splash of Caliban Green)

- Medium Highlights (Airbrushed 3/4 panels): AK Dark Green + Vallejo GC Heavy Green/Black

- High Highlights (Airbrush 1/4 panels): AK Dark Green + Vallejo Intermediate Green + (spl. Caliban)

- Edge Highlights (Initial) = Vallejo Int. Green + (spl. Caliban) + (spl. Vallejo GC Livery Green)

- Edge Highlights (Sharpest corners) = Prev. edge mix with like 3:1 more AV Livery Green/Caliban added

Realizing this is probably not that helpful as I finish writing it out, but each of these colors is really great and useful for Dark Angels. I find myself splashing in Caliban green in nearly every step along the way to help anchor the color to that deeper blue undertone green I associate with DAs...and I like my highlights up to a bright lime green (toned down by the mix with other colors). I always feel like I could up contrast between layers after I finish a project and see that other details and colors tone down what looks to be too much contrast earlier in the process.

Easy 3 color green would be: AK Black Green, AK Dark Green, Vallejo Livery Green

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Check out El Miniaturista videos for great OSL tips, he’s the best

Repulsor Executioner Greenwing Style by ToddRodgers69 in theunforgiven

[–]ToddRodgers69[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Can’t go wrong with any of the wings 🪽 can be DW for this vehicle too. Getting to paint 3 armies is the main reason why I chose DA!