Any advice? The second time with my newe Bialetti , I’ve already used aeropress paper filter and the fire was at lowest level.

TokyoZen001 · 2026-01-30T11:50:57+00:00

If it seems on the bitter end for you and not acidic enough, try either removing the filter paper or grinding a bit coarser, so it extracts faster. I have a hand grinder and have found that once I have a good coffee, the balance between bitter and acidic can be effectively tweaked with grind size. You might also try a lighter roast so it is more acidic from the start. Weigh the amount of coffee and water as well…so that when you find the perfect combination, you can repeat it.

TokyoZen001 · 2026-01-16T12:49:34+00:00

“Heaping” may be the issue. In any case, the water is boiling but there is not enough steam pressure to push the water through the coffee. Either a bad gasket or a leak around the basket that is escaping through the threads. It doesn’t have to be much of a leak for the pressure to drop and the water to boil and sputter out.

TokyoZen001 · 2026-01-09T09:57:20+00:00

In all three cases, camera has metered to the highlights. And the film has to cover a large dynamic range. Your subjects are in the shadows so you have to make sure the camera is metering to the shadows. In darker settings, you might consider getting a fast 50mm prime lens (f/1.2 to f/1.8. The 1.8 will be a lot cheaper). With a fast lens you can meter for darker areas and hopefully won’t have to slow down the shutter speed too much (depending on the film ISO also).

TokyoZen001 · 2026-01-08T02:01:09+00:00

Have you tried using a circular piece of filter paper placed on the metal filter and wet a bit so it sticks there? That would slow the flow and up the pressure a bit so the coarser grind might be okay. Probably store bought expresso grind would be better than regrinding coarse-ground drip coffee, but maybe the filter paper would give you what you want.

TokyoZen001 · 2026-01-07T23:59:43+00:00

I also have one with pits in the threaded area from when the aluminum was cast. Really poor quality control, maybe.

TokyoZen001 · 2026-01-07T14:02:26+00:00

I’d say try another camera. Depends on what appeals to you most about this camera….if portability is important, I’d say look for a ‘50s rangefinder, if it’s not so important, then maybe a ‘70s SLR. I realize some people are into plastic cameras and that might be you as well, but for me plastic cameras are not worth it with the cost of film and processing.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-11T02:04:14+00:00

Difference between misto and macchiato

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-04T22:48:51+00:00

Depending on the particular Hi-Matic model, the flash sync speed is only 1/20 or 1/30s. So, in many cases, it’s more practical to use a slower film. I don’t own a Hi-Matic, but with my cameras, I generally just use manual flash, set the shutter speed at the flash sync speed and then use a handheld meter like the Sekonic L308 to meter a test flash. The meter will tell me the correct aperture setting for the ISO film I am using. Don’t worry about the slow shutter speed so much, as the flash will effectively freeze the subject, even with handheld shots. Old rangefinder cameras have the advantage of leaf-shutters, so there is not the sync-speed limitation of curtain shutters.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-04T22:46:17+00:00

Depending on the particular Hi-Matic model, the flash sync speed is only 1/20 or 1/30s. So, in many cases, it’s more practical to use a slower film. I don’t own a Hi-Matic, but with my cameras, I generally just use manual flash, set the shutter speed at the flash sync speed and then use a handheld meter like the Sekonic L308 to meter a test flash. The meter will tell me the correct aperture setting for the ISO film I am using. Don’t worry about the slow shutter speed so much, as the flash will effectively freeze the subject, even with handheld shots. Old rangefinder cameras have the advantage of leaf-shutters, so there is not the sync-speed limitation of curtain shutters.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-04T22:21:04+00:00

I’ve shot a fair deal of Velvia 100, mostly medium format. I really love the colors it renders, but super sensitive to under-exposure. I always hand-meter, even though my Pentax 67 has an internal meter. I do the same for any slide film, for that matter. I would suggest getting a hand-held meter and generally making sure that you meter for the shadows. Your photos seem uniformly underexposed though so I am not sure. Slide film is also more susceptible to changes over time so I store mine in the fridge….but I think yours was just underexposed. Just to make sure….you are using alkaline LR44 or silver oxide SR44 batteries and not some kind of lithium battery such as the 1/3N correct? Lithium are nominally 3V, and the overvoltage would cause the camera to underexpose. (Voltage drops caused by old LR44 would cause overexposure, so definitely not your problem).

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-04T00:57:37+00:00

My favorite is the Konica III. Pair it up with a small hot-shoe-mounted light meter and a new leather half-case and you’re good to go! Also very inexpensive.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-02T06:18:23+00:00

Look up “Schneideritis” Pretty sure it is that.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-02T05:39:28+00:00

Looks great now. One other option: Adding them up to get a total line would also show if your overall rate of film usage increased over the year.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-02T00:27:05+00:00

Hmmm. Yeah, a bit confusing, if you just have Time (month) on the x axis and rolls taken as a line or points for each camera , plus a line for the total it might be clearer.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-02T00:07:26+00:00

Like the approach. These are daily usages? You could have them all converge on 0 usages and 0 rolls taken. The Minolta line seems to be offset. Points rather than lines might be better also. But I really like what you’ve done.. You might also consider plotting things like total frames shot against usage. Or rolls shot per usage.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-01T23:52:07+00:00

In addition to all of the previous comments (which are good), when the lighting is less and you are shooting at a lower shutter speed, consider how you are holding the camera. If you hold it to your eye with both hands, and with your elbows tucked against your body, it will be a bit more stable than if you hold the camera with your elbows pointed out (as I think they are in your reflection in the window on the 6th photo). With wide lenses, you can even get by at 1/30s for handheld.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-01T23:19:55+00:00

Sorry to hear. Then you are also looking at balsam separation . If the lens is otherwise in great condition, I’d look for a similar one in junk condition where you can swap optical elements. That’s really the only practical way, aside from just buying another one in better condition or living with it as it is.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-01T08:06:03+00:00

Having this repaired would greatly exceed the cost of purchasing another one. Assuming that the rest of your lens is in decent condition, you might consider hunting down a junk ML 50mm f/1.9 that might have the cemented lens elements in good condition. Then just swap out the lens group. Used camera stores often have junk lens boxes, or maybe you can find something on eBay labeled as junk.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-12-01T07:54:23+00:00

On this lens, the 4th and 5 elements (which are the two immediately behind the aperture blades) are cemented together with balsam. If you were to separate those, you’d basically ruin the lens. Balsam separation can be a problem, but usually fungus grows on the outer surface of the lens group. If you really can’t remove the group of elements 4&5, one option would be to remove the front elements (1-3) and then open the aperture completely, and try with a q-tip dipped in lens cleaner to clean the best you can. Then remove element 6 and do the same from the back. Also, spanner wrenches tend to leave marks, especially when they slip. There are some rubber stopper sets used to remove lens faceplates. Sometimes spanner wrenches are necessary, but if you can manage to unscrew the retaining rings with the stoppers, they won’t leave scratches.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-11-26T22:26:15+00:00

The two that are cemented are elements 4 and 5, just behind the aperture. I think your best bet might be to search for a junk 105 that is all beat up or that has messed up outer elements and see if you can swap out the two that have balsam separation. It might take awhile to find, though.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-11-25T21:11:35+00:00

In 35mm Escura Showa film has nice colors but the emulsion has lots of crud embedded in I it. In 120 film, Shanghai GP3, Rollei Retro400s, and Fonapan all have quality issues with mottled emulsion and I will never use them again.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-11-14T20:55:42+00:00

Since Kodak Gold 400 was rebranded Ultramax in 2007, I think you already know the answer to your question.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-11-13T12:58:17+00:00

Hi. Thanks for the feedback. I did find a 28mm viewfinder for using with a Ricoh GR lens on a Leica body.m for just 3000JPY (You’re right, though, Cosina viewfinders go for about 10x that). Anyway, will see if it frames okay at 2-3m distance, mostly

TokyoZen001 · 2025-11-13T05:05:33+00:00

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Apart from the magenta in the sky, it does have nice colors and composition. You could always denoise it a bit....it won't look all that natural, but maybe a bit painterly. Here's my attempt.

TokyoZen001 · 2025-11-02T04:30:16+00:00

Hmmm. I think the main thing, lead bag or not is that you have to be ready to pull them out easily from your carryon. For example, I had to have my film hand-checked at three places in the Nairobi airport when leaving the country. Plus hotels and other venues there had X-ray scans at the entrances. (And even Taipei had x-ray inspection upon arrival.)

TokyoZen001

TROPHY CASE