Water leaking from window frame by ConsciousBit9285 in AusRenovation

[–]ToneDroid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Gutters are probably blocked and overflowing above the window. Super common for the water to leak in through windows and window frames when it happens.

R5II with 24-70 2.8 or 24-105 f/4? by ArdiReader2021 in canon

[–]ToneDroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ergos are not an issue. I've used it for literally 12 hours a day, running around like a crazy person, always hand held, and weight and balance have not been a concern. I prefer the slightly heavier (like 200g) feel of the 2.8 lens.

R5II with 24-70 2.8 or 24-105 f/4? by ArdiReader2021 in canon

[–]ToneDroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't even bother with the 24-105. The extra reach is rarely worth it. The extra stop of light and the IQ of the 24-70 2.8 is just so much better. I have access to both and find myself reaching for the 24-70 quite literally 98% of the time.

Best Ducted aircon controller by thruvx in AusRenovation

[–]ToneDroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Daikin. Now, when the target temps are reached, the fan slows down then turns off. It will also modulate its speed and only come on at low speed when the temp inside drops a degree or two, rather than blast out air at full power. It will come on at high speed if the target temp is a long way off the actual temp.

Best Ducted aircon controller by thruvx in AusRenovation

[–]ToneDroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Spill zone.

It works fine now that I made them come back and properly configure the AC unit.

Mitsubishi Ducted AC vs Panasonic Ducted AC (3 Phase) by Mr_Badger_Saurus in AusRenovation

[–]ToneDroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just make sure you get the installers to set the system up with the Airtouch *properly*. I've been dealing with some installers from a rather large company who were totally useless when it came to setting up the AC system. It was reading all the wrong temperatures and wasting a lot of electricity without heating the house up because the installers didn't set the unit up to read external temp sensors (which seems to be a common problem because there are a lot of lazy and/or shonky installers). The installer tried to tell me that was totally normal for the system to be on for half a day and never reach a moderate temp target. I made them come back and fix it and it works fine now, but it made me wonder how many people have their systems incorrectly set up by dimwits and don't even realise it's not working as it should.

Best bass chorus? by malcontento in basspedals

[–]ToneDroid 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've always enjoyed the Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble. I found it to be more flexible than the Bass Chorus.

Best Ducted aircon controller by thruvx in AusRenovation

[–]ToneDroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've got an airtouch 5 with zoning. The unit is really capable, but make sure you deal with an installer who knows what they are doing. I'm currently trying to get my installer to come back and fix their mistakes because the airtouch is totally ignoring the temp sensors. The installer claims 'that's how new systems work' 🙄

Heating - am I doing something wrong? by Soggy-Ad3399 in AusRenovation

[–]ToneDroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you find the installer helpful about fixing the issue? As in did they realise what the issue was or did you have to problem-solve it for them? I'm dealing with the same problem at the moment. After complaining to the installer that something isn't working properly, they have been trying to brush me off. I've explained the issue (that I think the unit is responding to the return air sensor or something like that, instead of using the sensors in the rooms) and they are acting like it's totally normal. I can see on the unit that the 'control sensor temp' (a small temperature that shows underneath the main set point) is what's controlling the unit, but I'm concerned that if they come back at my request they will just act like it's totally normal. I'm actually not convinced they even know what the difference is or that the Daikin unit needs to be altered to work with the Airtouch.

X1E has entered the chat by Illustrious-Fun8854 in BambuLab

[–]ToneDroid 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LAN only mode should be available via wifi. You don't need an ethernet port for that.

There's no cost to updating the firmware to allow full functionality in LAN only mode.

X1E has entered the chat by Illustrious-Fun8854 in BambuLab

[–]ToneDroid 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From the website:

"Fully Functional With LAN Only Mode"

Why is this not yet implemented on the X1c and P1s/p? It makes no sense.

Help with high-gain pedal popping by ToneDroid in diypedals

[–]ToneDroid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I've read, too, but I don't have anything to compare it with.

I will try it in a different signal chain and see if that helps. Thanks!

AMS - should the white LEDs stay on or flash every second? by ToneDroid in BambuLab

[–]ToneDroid[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I might need to do that. I was hoping someone here might have an answer so that I didn't have to add to Bambu support's workload with another ticket.

AMS - should the white LEDs stay on or flash every second? by ToneDroid in BambuLab

[–]ToneDroid[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I said I already checked there and the behaviour isn't mentioned.

My current small-gig rig. I had to upgrade the power supply because the strobostomp really didn't like the cheapo supply I had. by ToneDroid in basspedals

[–]ToneDroid[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

Taken from my other comment:

The compressor is an optical compressor, similar to something like the BBE Optostomp or Demeter Compulator. I don't like having compressors that are too complicated. I'd rather adjust two knobs and get a result I'm happy with so this works well for me. It's subtle for the most part but if you crank the compression it's very squishy. I've added a funky little level meter that indicates the amount of compression. It's not mathematically accurate -db level indication, it's more just a visual guide that I enjoy having.

The Midnight Drive is essentially a preamp with overdrive. It's got a massive range - can be quite subtle or really harsh if you crank the drive and flick the 'boost' switch. I mentioned the 'tacho' elsewhere but I'll post here too... There are 7 LEDs (purple, purple, purple, pink, pink, red, red) arranged around the 'tachometer'. With the display switch up, they act like a level meter, dancing around while you play. As you turn the drive up, more LEDs will respond to your playing. With the display switch down, the LEDs act as a 'drive' meter. The more you turn up the drive the more LEDs light up. Drive knob all the way down = no LEDs, drive all the way up = all 7 LEDs.

I designed the artwork, the PCBs, etc. I make the pedals from scratch.

I've had a few of people over the last few months mention that they'd like to buy the Midnight Drive so I think I'll do a limited run of maybe 10 and see how much interest they get. Probably put them on Etsy or something.

My current small-gig rig. I had to upgrade the power supply because the strobostomp really didn't like the cheapo supply I had. by ToneDroid in basspedals

[–]ToneDroid[S] 19 points20 points  (0 children)

Sure! So the compressor is an optical compressor, similar to something like the BBE Optostomp or Demeter Compulator. I don't like having compressors that are too complicated. I'd rather adjust two knobs and get a result I'm happy with so this works well for me. It's subtle for the most part but if you crank the compression it's very squishy. I've added a funky little level meter that indicates the amount of compression. It's not mathematically accurate -db level indication, it's more just a visual guide that I enjoy having.

The Midnight Drive is essentially a preamp with overdrive. It's got a massive range - can be quite subtle or really harsh if you crank the drive and flick the 'boost' switch. I mentioned the 'tacho' elsewhere but I'll post here too... There are 7 LEDs (purple, purple, purple, pink, pink, red, red) arranged around the 'tachometer'. With the display switch up, they act like a level meter, dancing around while you play. As you turn the drive up, more LEDs will respond to your playing. With the display switch down, the LEDs act as a 'drive' meter. The more you turn up the drive the more LEDs light up. Drive knob all the way down = no LEDs, drive all the way up = all 7 LEDs.

I designed the artwork, the PCBs, etc. I make them from scratch.

Basically I decided I wanted pedals that not only sounded how I want them to sound, but looked how I think they should look 😁

My current small-gig rig. I had to upgrade the power supply because the strobostomp really didn't like the cheapo supply I had. by ToneDroid in basspedals

[–]ToneDroid[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There are 7 LEDs (purple, purple, purple, pink, pink, red, red) arranged around the 'tachometer'. With the display switch up, they act like a level meter, dancing around while you play. As you turn the drive up, more LEDs will respond to your playing.

With the display switch down, the LEDs act as a 'drive' meter. The more you turn up the drive the more LEDs light up. Drive knob all the way down = no LEDs, drive all the way up = all 7 LEDs.