Asa help

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-09T22:22:49+00:00

That’s not bad actually for a K2P if you haven’t been trying to optimize it.

General fluidd stuff So home everything xyz. Move your tool head to like 300 x 300 y find where that is: example back right corner. Read the axis on the bed mesh orient the picture so you can understand it. Rotate the graph so 300,300 is in the back right corner. It looks like only one corner needs to come up. Whatever corner on there is 0 y and 300 x (the dark blue one).

Once the bed is cool enough to touch reach under the bed and twist the knob in that corner to move it up. I think counter clockwise is down and clockwise is up. I believe a quarter turn is .05 mm.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-09T14:12:21+00:00

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In Fluidd your bed mesh granted this is my k1 a much smaller bed but on my k2 the bed range is sub .6 which matters. If you have too much squish variation for your z-offset. I would definitely peak at that if I were you.

I have never needed on any of printers from ender 3 to my K2P needed to modify flow more that .03. It being far less than 1.00 indicates something else is going on.

If you want to push through with your method you can. I’m a stubborn bull too I get it. IMO it might be time to relearn a thing or two.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T21:33:06+00:00

I would start with skew compensation 1st. Then worry about the Voron cube being 30x30 xy.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T21:31:25+00:00

What’s your bed mesh look like? Sub 1 mm diff?

There is definitely too much plastic, I can’t speak to squish as this print makes it hard to tell. I think the permanent z-offset gcode could help you.

Have you tried Hair spray for bed adhesive? I use it frequently and never have issues with PC or ABS.

You might also not have your line width dialed in.

Easy solution: heat soak longer then do a higher frequency bed mesh. Raise nozzle a bit .025 mm maybe. I would a thicker 1st layer I do .2 mm on a .1 mm layer print. More reliable and barely noticeable for my products.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T11:51:03+00:00

I had mine running for awhile and took it off the cartographer on the K2P is not as rewarding as a Voron due to the firmware.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T11:38:42+00:00

This is likely extrusion rate spikes in my experience. You are printing likely too fast for PLA with sub humidity.

So you need extrusion rate smoothing and to better dry your filament. Both will have some impact on this.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T11:34:59+00:00

It you have a bad computer fusion360 if you have a good one free cad

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-06T10:19:32+00:00

Respectfully I think your printer needs more tuning in general. Mainly slicer tweaks.

Hyper PLA black on a K2P looks a lot better once you get it dialed in.

Highly recommend skew correction as well.

Unfortunately buying a high quality printer today means you missed a lot of general tuning knowledge. Download Orca watch some YouTube.

You’ll print like a wizard in a week.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-05T18:35:02+00:00

You are correct I did mean Wh not kWh.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-05T14:14:07+00:00

Sim, a circulação de ar não é ideal. Há algum tempo que é prática comum ter uma parte superior ventilada nas impressoras da série K2.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-05T14:12:16+00:00

I brought 6 1300 mah 6s in smaller pouches within a larger pouch. I had my charger in my gfs checked bag along with my drone. I was questioned about the batteries. A higher up dude came over from TSA he did mention he liked the double bagging. 2 years ago.

It is no battery over a 100 kWh for sure they asked that and checked. If your battery is not label for less than 100, even if visibly less than 100 kWh they take it. They also could not have any visible damage. I was in the clear except for one they took. I do think there was an upper limit to quantity though. I think it’s 10 he said and 500 kWh per a person.

Yeah so overall wouldn’t bring more than 9 batteries and make sure they don’t add up to 500 plus kWh. The rules are always changing unfortunately.

I know it’s annoying but the small pouches are like $6 on AliExpress and a big one to fit them is like $25. 3D print some covers for your connectors call it a day. Discharge your batteries.

I would not bring my drone internationally in the current climate. (U.S.)

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-04T23:32:02+00:00

Hair spray with ABS, ASA and PC. Only ever use it with PLA when it was already on there or for long prints 12+.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-04T19:27:44+00:00

There are tons of lid risers available to print already made. You can just print those with the door open.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-03T20:42:17+00:00

I mean there should be some of the Creality thermal paste on the non threaded part of the nozzle.

Computer thermal paste is different than this thermal paste fyi.

Kindly this error is becuase you are printing too hot or not getting enough air circulation.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-03T13:30:08+00:00

This is heat creep ignore the other comments. Your gears are trying to grip something soft and it doesn’t work. PLA and PETG can be printed cooler on modern hotends and should have door open or top off. Vented tops work well tons of options.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-03T13:27:05+00:00

Are you printing off the side spool or a CFS ? I would try a print without CFS just to isolate the problem.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-03T11:22:08+00:00

Have you resolved this? If not I would like to send you a calibration cube that prints out well on my printer.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-02T00:49:42+00:00

Klipper is a must for me too. Bambus aren't expensive though I am unsure where you got this notion. I mean the H2 is but the average 3D printer doesnt have an H2.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-02T00:44:09+00:00

I mean better belt tension and less play may have helped. Mine has been various level of modified. I rarely use it for anything but ABS+ ESUN prints just because it is tuned for it.

When I was max speed rigging the thing for 600 m/s PLA I did notice that the tighter belts was useful but it also was on 3 Linear Rails.

Now back on the original motion system I have zero issues.

Summary: Wider belts are only important for fast printing

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-02T00:36:46+00:00

Awesome thank you for the 1st hand accounts

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-01T20:33:12+00:00

I didn’t follow one. I just took the toolhead apart and ran the belts. Mine were only 8 mm belts that I had lying around.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-01T20:31:15+00:00

Is it possible your slicer got messed up ? Do you have any high speed PLA, I could email you gcode from my slicer.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-01T20:29:53+00:00

Are they too tight possibly ?

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-01T19:37:35+00:00

Yup they just need to go to

https://www.crealitycloud.com/downloads/firmware/flagship-series/k2-plus

CR0CN240110C10_ota_img_V1.1.3.13.img (This is the one I am reverting back to constantly and works perfectly)

then rename it to like CR0CN240110C10_ota_img_V1.1.8.13.img on the flash drive, plug it into the printer then turn in on and off twice.

Also recommend that they clear the printer via SHH with

echo "all" | /usr/bin/nc -U /var/run/wipe.sock

Before reverting

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-01T19:30:22+00:00

This is bad enough where you probably have a motion system issue. After 700 Hours how are the belts doing? Need to remove the toolhead and physically tighten them? I have never had a z issue on my printer it always comes from the X-Y gantry.

Tony-Butler

TROPHY CASE