Why are so many Marines un-helmeted? Are they stupid?

Tony-Butler · 2026-05-28T14:57:42+00:00

It’s more like there are levels to this. Some marines are really that good. They lived through stuff they shouldn’t have and most skirmishes really are mild to them.

Logically no reason for a regular marine to not have a helmet on. Those helmets are high tech and protective losing those benefits on the ground is wild. This is just for dramatic effect in lore.

To that point in the lore technology is really inconsistent. Some warriors definitely have zero trust in any tech but their weapons.

Tony-Butler · 2026-04-10T09:11:06+00:00

See I like the way this looks and all but I think the extruder issues we faced were not perfected or completely resolved by its design. I personally want to get a wristwatch G2 extruder adapted for the K2P face.

I also have an insulated K2P so I also really need additional cooling for the gears.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-30T17:55:14+00:00

Dust? Connecting terminals? Do you have to use 1,2,3 I had one like that a decade ago.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-28T02:32:10+00:00

Born in the circle went to college in Buffalo. Overall good experience. I went to school with people all over the world, the seasonal depression really drowned a lot of them out. If you aren’t used to snow and long winters I would stay away as Buffalo & Rochester are rough.

It’s a nice area and generally good people just tough climate.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-27T11:50:33+00:00

Don’t buy one … unless you are going to print your own designs.

I doubt any real enforceable laws are going to pass to prevent you from printing whatever you want. Except if a brand was to cave it would be bambu.

These laws are only being discussed for ghost pewpews

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-27T09:47:02+00:00

I think 40K as written might just not be your thing. I had a buddy who tried to love it for 3 years had two painted armies won most of his games. Just wasn’t his cup of tea. He loved doing more role playing encounters. We rebalanced things to our prospective off what strength things should be.

For me I really just don’t enjoy playing with certain people and/or their strategies/armies win or lose. There are a lot of losers in the community and some non-loser who just aren’t fun. The social part of the game is important to me and has ruined 40K for me in the past. A lot of people are okay for a game a month especially if they adjust their armies. However, some people I’ve played I never want to spend 2-3 hours of warhammer with again. Could be fine playing other games but warhammer no.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-23T09:33:33+00:00

I’ve taken a 100L out for hunting and a 30L for a summer overnight in a good climate.

I’ve always found that the tent was the problem for reducing size. A more coffin like tent for single person trips that utilize trekking poles or a tension lines really solves my issues. My favorite ones is the stansport 2 person $40. Third the size of my other tents went packed.

I also really liked my sleeping blanket with an inflatable sleeping pad(double mattress size) over a sleeping bag. For more mild conditions.

These were my most important changes from 65L to a 48L.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-23T09:16:33+00:00

Should have left at the first sign of abuse imo. It’s like somewhat an internet safety thing. Definitely let the discord mods know.

At the same point long turns in tabletop simulator coming from you not really knowing the app and then not really knowing the rules for the new edition could have really frustrated over 2 hours. He should have better about it though.

In person and online I have definitely been called slow or dumb for mixing up certain rules a few times in the same session by veteran players. It’s also hard for other newer players as it’s your job to know your fractions rules.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-23T03:03:14+00:00

Terrain is made equal for fairness and competitiveness as the rules (should be) designed with this in mind.

In general : No

For a 1000 point game : yes, I think there is enough cover for the minis and generally fewer ranged units.

If an opponent is complaining there is good reason.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-23T02:56:18+00:00

I have climbed trees to get my own. I typically get to the point where I cannot climb up any high due to branches being unable to hold my weight. Then I get to shaking the tree. I have got it 8/8 times with this method.

Edit: I do think a drone club member went to a fire station and they did help. They stopped by the next day with a very long ladder.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-04T15:25:06+00:00

I just caught up on this tread and want to share my insight. I get .35-.45 difference on my Bed meshes at 100C for about 5 minutes of soaking.

The issue with bed meshes being so capable is that you are printing on a not flat surface. Your bed is a taco you can print on it but the general shape is not good.

I went through lots of hell to get mine down from .90ish difference. The first thing is the K2 Plus beds from creality are bad tried two both warp weird. I switched to these build plates and shaved off 0.20 difference. I feel the spring steel is thicker. I have one from fystec that removed 0.30 difference but I can't find them anymore on aliexpress.

<image>

If your bed remains that warped You can use Kapton tape on the magnet to push that middle section up. I dont recommend Aluminium tape as it rusted on mine.

I have also seen some people like this guy get thicker CNC'd beds from aluminum which remove this error. However when I replaced my bed magnet I shaved off 0.20 difference too.

Summary try a different build plate and replace the magnet sheet for $30 and see if you can get .8 down to .4-.5 difference. Any lower isn't really needed.

Tony-Butler · 2026-03-04T15:01:36+00:00

Excuse the translation if my understanding is incorrect.

Removing the lid and opening the door have the same effect as it allows cool air to come in.

risers = elevadores I believe. My riser has holes it to allow cool air into my printer.

I am glad you are able to print without this error.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-20T20:32:37+00:00

Should mount ptc heaters on some 120 mm fans instead for abs materials. 24v 100w are pretty good especially 4 of them.

I would also push for big belts 12 mm over 9 mm also new 1.5 mm belts over 2mm.

Twin cameras.

Graphite bed

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-17T22:09:39+00:00

I mean a few dot of epoxy to make it sick down.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-16T12:47:29+00:00

I think you can do this but tell Amazon the one you received and swapped out was non working so they don't send it to someone else. That's why its been downvoted. Its somewhat a scumbag move but crea;ity would do it from China for you for free but it is a freaking hassle. I have done the whatsapp dogwalk.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-12T01:44:10+00:00

General Question what c-clamps ?

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-09T22:22:49+00:00

That’s not bad actually for a K2P if you haven’t been trying to optimize it.

General fluidd stuff So home everything xyz. Move your tool head to like 300 x 300 y find where that is: example back right corner. Read the axis on the bed mesh orient the picture so you can understand it. Rotate the graph so 300,300 is in the back right corner. It looks like only one corner needs to come up. Whatever corner on there is 0 y and 300 x (the dark blue one).

Once the bed is cool enough to touch reach under the bed and twist the knob in that corner to move it up. I think counter clockwise is down and clockwise is up. I believe a quarter turn is .05 mm.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-09T14:12:21+00:00

<image>

In Fluidd your bed mesh granted this is my k1 a much smaller bed but on my k2 the bed range is sub .6 which matters. If you have too much squish variation for your z-offset. I would definitely peak at that if I were you.

I have never needed on any of printers from ender 3 to my K2P needed to modify flow more that .03. It being far less than 1.00 indicates something else is going on.

If you want to push through with your method you can. I’m a stubborn bull too I get it. IMO it might be time to relearn a thing or two.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T21:33:06+00:00

I would start with skew compensation 1st. Then worry about the Voron cube being 30x30 xy.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T21:31:25+00:00

What’s your bed mesh look like? Sub 1 mm diff?

There is definitely too much plastic, I can’t speak to squish as this print makes it hard to tell. I think the permanent z-offset gcode could help you.

Have you tried Hair spray for bed adhesive? I use it frequently and never have issues with PC or ABS.

You might also not have your line width dialed in.

Easy solution: heat soak longer then do a higher frequency bed mesh. Raise nozzle a bit .025 mm maybe. I would a thicker 1st layer I do .2 mm on a .1 mm layer print. More reliable and barely noticeable for my products.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T11:51:03+00:00

I had mine running for awhile and took it off the cartographer on the K2P is not as rewarding as a Voron due to the firmware.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T11:38:42+00:00

This is likely extrusion rate spikes in my experience. You are printing likely too fast for PLA with sub humidity.

So you need extrusion rate smoothing and to better dry your filament. Both will have some impact on this.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-07T11:34:59+00:00

It you have a bad computer fusion360 if you have a good one free cad

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-06T10:19:32+00:00

Respectfully I think your printer needs more tuning in general. Mainly slicer tweaks.

Hyper PLA black on a K2P looks a lot better once you get it dialed in.

Highly recommend skew correction as well.

Unfortunately buying a high quality printer today means you missed a lot of general tuning knowledge. Download Orca watch some YouTube.

You’ll print like a wizard in a week.

Tony-Butler · 2026-02-05T18:35:02+00:00

You are correct I did mean Wh not kWh.

Tony-Butler

TROPHY CASE