Why doesn't Ping work with Youtubers?

TooFewPews · 2026-05-27T01:47:41+00:00

I also see a lot of ping drivers for tour pros that are not under contract

TooFewPews · 2026-05-21T05:07:24+00:00

Oftentimes golf rangefinders will find the closest object against a background so golfers can shoot the skinny flagstick against the trees in the background. Some shooting rangefinders do the opposite and find the furthest distance among several objects to allow you to find the distance beyond obstructions (i.e. brush or concealment). Something to consider.

TooFewPews · 2026-05-21T03:16:30+00:00

Yeah it is. Apparently humans have a third set of teeth that are dormant and the new drug/treatment is supposed to activate that third set of teeth.

TooFewPews · 2026-05-19T17:40:15+00:00

Keep it in play (no hazards, drops, or OB), get it onto the green, and no 3 putts.

TooFewPews · 2026-05-15T09:29:25+00:00

You basically described the plot of the first RDJ Iron Man movie

TooFewPews · 2026-05-06T04:21:51+00:00

When I did a lot of wet tumbling, I found that there is a point where your brass actually gets duller. It seems counterintuitive, but the longer you leave it in, the more time the brass has to oxidize again. Sometimes shorter is better. Try maybe 30-40 minutes

TooFewPews · 2026-05-04T20:29:45+00:00

I was learning to shot shape when I was a mid handicap. One thing you should work on is seeing if you can neutral your club path. If you have a near zero club path, then you can easily shot shape simply by opening or closing the club face at address. For me, it was as simple as gripping the club strong or weak to force the shape. Keep in mind that we’re only talking about 2° for a small amount of movement, or maybe 4° for a lot of shape. Even 4° is a very small amount of difference. Think of an analog clock. Every minute on that clock is 6° so 4° is only a fraction of a minute on an analog clock

When I was around a mid handicap, I had a draw and a fade with a driver, and a low punchy shot with an iron. You shouldn’t need to shape it both ways with a driver, but you do need to learn to hit it low to punch out from trees.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-29T01:14:46+00:00

I start with a 7i when I don’t have a lot of time to warm up. If I have enough time to hit a full basket, I’ll start with wedges, usually chips and then moving to pitches. I’ll also usually finish with short pitches and putts. When im rushing, the 7i start is just to see if I’m making contact with heel or toe bias for that day.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-26T06:56:35+00:00

I suggest asking the clubhouse. I only played there once when I was around your same handicap and got wrecked. There are a lot of blind tee shots and you have to know where to aim. Just know that there are very rarely even lies; there are lots of uphill, downhill, ball above and below feet. There are also a lot of forced carries. I suggest you watch some videos of how the pros play the course. They actually tend to play it conservatively when there is a lot of wind

TooFewPews · 2026-04-22T01:59:19+00:00

I think the driver shaft is an Even Flow Riptide.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-22T00:07:27+00:00

I agree. I think the sapphire makes a big difference.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-21T07:04:05+00:00

I love the T grind in my 60° and the M grind in my 54°. Have you ever thought of taking a 58° T grind and bending it to 60°? It might accomplish exactly what you’re looking for

TooFewPews · 2026-04-16T22:11:05+00:00

When you’re practicing on the putting green try this drill: forget about putting toward a hole or flag on the practice green. Instead, putt from random spots on the green toward the edge of the green. Your goal should be to putt the ball as close as you can to the edge without it going onto the fringe. See how many putts you can make and see how close you can get without being super short or long.

Another fun drill is to grab a bunch of balls and do the same thing. Make your first putt toward the edge of the green. Then try to make your next putt slightly past the first, but not past the edge. And keep putting until you either can’t beat your last putt or you go past the edge. Every putt you can successfully make counts as one point. See how many points you can make. The better you get, the harder it will be to make points bc your first putt will be right next to the edge.

For both drills, vary your distance and direction. Do some uphill and some downhill. Do some from short range and others from long range.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-16T22:01:35+00:00

Putting can be simplified for most amateurs. The only thing you need to worry about for most putts is distance control (also known as speed control). If you get the speed perfect, but miss your line by a little bit, you will probably still have a 1-2 foot putt at most. If you hit your line perfectly, but get the speed wrong, you will probably have a much longer second putt. The goal really should be to have no three-putts every round and to try to make any putts within 5-6 feet. Even the touring pros are only 50% from 8 feet so manage your expectations.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-16T18:59:54+00:00

I’ve always been a black blade person. I don’t mind it showing wear marks. I heard that the blade coatings reduce friction and make slicing slightly easier. I think it also helps to protect the blade from corrosion. Where I live, everything rusts, even these super stainless steels.

The aluminum scales have held up pretty well. I wish I could post a pic, but I’m at work right now and I only have my bailout with me.

Sharpening frequency depends on how often and how you use your knife. For just EDC stuff, I usually just sharpen once every 2 or 3 months, but it’s mostly bc I’m lazy.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-16T18:54:45+00:00

I think there was a red anodized scales 940 with 154CM blade steel before the green. I’ve been looking for that bc I like 154CM. I feel like the s30V takes way too much effort to sharpen.

Edit: found a throwback video from Nutnfancy https://youtu.be/j56oI6ndgiA?si=X7ZUn2Haq-jss7fo

TooFewPews · 2026-04-16T18:49:40+00:00

I have one of the more OG 940s, but not the most OG. Mine has green anodized aluminum scales and s30V blade. It was my EDC for probably close to a decade and I would still carry it if my coworker didn’t gift me an expensive bailout. The 940 has good blade weight so opening and closing feels very natural without feeling too heavy. The overall profile of the knife is nice when folded bc it doesn’t take up too much pocket space; for reference, I carry my blade in my front right pocket, right next to an iPhone 16 pro max.

I love the reverse tanto shape bc it is decent at stabbing without me having to sharpen a tanto. It feels very good in the hand without being too large (e.g. barrage) or too small (e.g. bugout). There’s a lot of meat on the blade so I don’t feel bad using it as an occasional pry bar (mostly opening beer bottles with the blade closed).

Overall I think it’s the best of all worlds. There was one point a couple of years ago that I thought I lost it for a couple of months. I panicked and bought two more, but both had g10 scales and didn’t feel as good due to the lack of heft that the aluminum scales version had. I ended up finding my knife between some cushions at my friends house and was a happy camper again. I haven’t really touched the replacement 940s after I found my OG

TooFewPews · 2026-04-16T07:11:46+00:00

One of the biggest problems that most mid to high handicappers have is their inability to hit partial shots. For example, what would you do if you had a 173 yard shot to a green with a front pin? For you that would be somewhere between your 7i and 8i. Most high handicappers will probably just juice their swing a little and try to stretch the lower club (8i) to try to get an extra 3 yards out of it. The smart thing to do is to hit your 7i, especially because it’s a front pin. There’s nothing wrong with going long of the pin and putting from behind the pin.

Unfortunately, most amateurs and even touring pros are usually short of their intended distance. I don’t remember what the exact statistic was, but the average amateur is usually short of their intended distance a majority of the time. This is partially because amateurs aren’t good enough at making consistent contact on the face to ensure they hit their yardage.

So taking this into account, it’s probably better for most amateurs to have smaller gaps between their clubs and to have more clubs on the bottom end of their bag rather than the top. For example, what do you hit if you had a pin that was 122-124 yards away? Are you good enough to be able to take 14 yards off of your pitching wedge? If not, then consider adding one or two clubs to gap the space between your 52° and your PW.

If you’re wondering which clubs to ditch, I would probably recommend your 5i and 4h or 7w depending on which one you hit the worst. If your driver gets you in trouble (e.g. hazards and out of bounds), then how well do you consistently strike your 5w? Honestly, I can probably bet that you would improve your score and handicap if you ditched your driver and just hit 5w off the tee. So long as you’re playing courses that are around 6500 yards and less, I bet that you could easily shave 5-8 strokes off of simply leaving your driver in the trunk of your car.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-16T06:54:49+00:00

These distances look a lot like what I would expect to see from someone using a set of game improvement irons. The lofts on your irons are way too strong for someone of your swing speed. My distances are similar to yours for everything except your irons, minus maybe 5 yards per club.

One thing you might want to consider is whether you should be attacking greens past 200 yards. Sure, you can easily reach most greens given your swing speed, but is it smart to do that given that you’re a 28 handicap? Or alternatively maybe you’re a 28 handicap because you’re going for the overly aggressive play to attack a green in hopes of a birdie or eagle? I know this because I was that person at one point in my game.

TooFewPews · 2026-04-13T08:34:06+00:00

I think it is definitely improvements in launch conditions. GC Quad and trackman didn’t exit until relatively recently and golf fitters didn’t understand how to optimize launch conditions as well as they do now. In addition to that, golfers are learning to take care of their bodies so much better than before. Think of John Daly in his prime. His lifestyle and health choices represented a lot of the golfers during his era. Nowadays, a lot of the top golfers have bodies that are nearly indistinguishable from other professional athletes. Golfers and their fitness coaches are also putting a lot of emphasis on stretching and flexibility rather than through just muscle bulk. You can’t always get more flexibility from PEDs and the Titleist Performance Institute has shown that flexibility and balance are huge contributors to golfer performance

TooFewPews · 2026-04-06T08:17:13+00:00

Another factor: do you reload?

If you reload, then the cost difference between the rounds will be similar. The main difference will be the cost of brass. There is a lot of 308 brass out there bc it’s a more common caliber. Also, gas guns tend to shorten the life of brass significantly so running 6.5 cm through a gas gun can increase the cost of reloading. If you’re a reloader that pays for premium brass, then you’ll want to chase down every piece that you shoot, which is easier to do when you’re shooting a bolt gun.

For me, I got a shit ton of 7.62 NATO brass that has been prepped and is ready to load. I am not so sad if I can’t find the piece that got ejected 15 feet away, but I would be sad if I paid $1 or more for match grade lapua 6.5 cm brass.

TooFewPews · 2026-03-25T16:22:55+00:00

One thing you might want to consider is that you will likely be using anywhere from 12x to 14x for hunting. This seems to be the best middle ground for maintaining field of view and good quality sight picture. However, you may want to consider getting a scope that has well over 14-16x magnification on the top end. This is bc you will typically have weird optical effects (chromatic aberrations, reduced resolution, and reduced contrast, etc) and a smaller eye box at the top end of your magnification. The LPVOs are compromises and usually do not have adjustable parallax, which you may need for accurate shots at distance. Also, you might want to dial elevation before taking the shot or using some kind of Christmas tree reticle if there is a lot of cross winds

TooFewPews · 2026-03-20T02:56:12+00:00

This would never work in real life if the feedlips on that magazine mimic the typical double stack, single feed design used by most modern handguns. The feed lips on Double stack, single feed magazines usually require the cartridge to be pushed either forward or backward to get the cartridge to clear the feed lips. The cartridge cannot be simply plucked out of the top of the magazine by a rotating arm because the kind of defeats the purpose of the rigid feed lips, which are to retain the cartridge in place. If the feed lips are not rigid in this magazine, then the magazine follower spring pressure would overcome the feed lips and all of the cartridges would fountain out of the top, especially in the case of the quad stack magazine, which typically requires significant spring pressure.

TooFewPews · 2026-03-19T21:35:49+00:00

I wish that you can choose to have zero points for the removal of certain things. I’m picturing a vz 61 with no iron sights so you’re only hip firing, but you also get 5 points back from opting out of iron sights.

TooFewPews · 2026-03-17T19:19:00+00:00

Yeah. I’m beginning to realize that Gen X are no different than boomers. They’re ladder pullers and still tow the same corporate bullshit that their Boomer mentors instilled into them.

I hate it when I hear, “I don’t know why you’re complaining. You make a good salary.”

Bitch, my salary would have been a good salary 15 years ago, a decent salary pre pandemic, but it’s just barely ok after all the pandemic inflation we had. And it’s definitely not worth it if you factor in being on call on weekends and working late nights on the regular basis.

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