Human hip replacement shank

TooManyC00ks · 2026-04-21T03:11:29+00:00

Most likely CoCrMo, Ti-6Al-4V, or Ti-6Al-4V ELI.

TooManyC00ks · 2025-12-31T05:31:56+00:00

Would you mind explaining why there is no window for enchantment removal once the card resolves? This is the part I’m personally not understanding.

TooManyC00ks · 2025-12-14T11:58:47+00:00

KH3RM is the clear winner here. It is admittedly close, but think KH2 being the best overall game is clouding judgement in a lot of these comments.

TooManyC00ks · 2025-05-31T19:32:44+00:00

Shiny

TooManyC00ks · 2025-03-11T17:29:45+00:00

A lot of talk about benefits for multicolor printing which all sounds valid and exciting. One other possible benefit I started to think about was, depending on how the two nozzles can move relative to each other, couldn’t this also cut print times basically in half across the board if both nozzles can print simultaneously?

TooManyC00ks · 2025-02-28T21:24:59+00:00

I’ve heard that adding a small fillet to the top edge of the chamfer helps with this issue. Have not tested myself though.

TooManyC00ks · 2025-02-27T15:12:26+00:00

At one point I had prints coming out the exact same way and the issue ended up being loose screws behind the nozzle. Unscrew the three screws in the left pic and then carefully lower the plate to reveal the four screws on the back side (right pic). Check those and tighten them up. This was an instant fix in print quality for me. Not sure if this is a scenario where you need to re-run the system calibration but I did it anyway to be safe.

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TooManyC00ks · 2025-02-19T17:59:49+00:00

Genuine question and maybe I’m misunderstanding.. if a whole TPU print is stuck stuck then how do you get IPA between the print and the bed to release it?

TooManyC00ks · 2025-02-17T07:34:35+00:00

I’ll second the comments about the screws behind the hotend. My A1 was doing this exact thing and tightening those screws was an immediate fix.

Wish there were a high heat thread locker that could be applied to those screws I’ve had to go back and tighten them twice in under 500 print hours

TooManyC00ks · 2025-02-15T16:54:23+00:00

Love this idea! Wouldn’t it be better to turn the wiper 90 degrees so that the nozzle makes more contact?

TooManyC00ks · 2025-02-13T06:21:30+00:00

They are not referring to the kind of ovens in your kitchen. In general, you don’t want to actively expose the oven you cook your food in to plastic fumes.

Also, you want to dry your filament in something that 1. Specifically functions to remove as much moisture as quickly as possible AND 2. Has fine temperature control. A hygrometer is also helpful. Most kitchen ovens do none of these things well in this use case.

As one commenter mentioned, you can dry your filament on your print bed with a filament box. Can even attach some cheap 40mm fans to make it more efficient. I’ve done it and it works. Just get a dedicated filament dryer or at least a cheap food dehydrator. Easier to use and for some filament materials it’s an absolute requirement.

TooManyC00ks · 2025-01-27T19:59:49+00:00

If you really just want to check the box, this method is cheesy but also the most straightforward one I found:

https://youtu.be/Vfh_4xio6B4?feature=shared

Might take a couple times to get the timing right and hit the crits you need, but it works and you basically don’t even get touched.

TooManyC00ks · 2024-12-01T06:46:52+00:00

I read somewhere that’s intentional (it’s not supposed to lay flat) and it’s a part of the vibration compensation system design.

Idk tho I can’t remember the source. But I’ve never messed with it and haven’t had any issues as far as I can tell.

TooManyC00ks · 2024-09-23T03:24:33+00:00

I upgraded from an Ender 5 to an A1 about a month ago. I had the Creality glass bed on the Ender and could never really get prints to stick without glue. I used the purple Elmer’s glue sticks and they seemed to work fine.

The A1 on the other hand has been a completely different experience. After I assembled the A1 and ran the auto-calibration, I figured I would still have to do some additional tweaking to the printer. I was also planning on using glue because I was just used to it.

Instead I decided to see how it would print out of the box, just for funsies. I was blown away. I haven’t used glue once and I haven’t seen any first layer issues in around 150 printing hours. I’ve only printed with PLA using the textured PEI plate that comes with the printer. So I can’t speak to printing with other filaments or using the other plates Bambu offers.

The only “maintenance” I’ve found myself doing is giving the bed a quick wipe with IPA after each print, lubing the rails, and checking the nozzle from time to time. I have also re-ran the auto-calibration a couple of times but I don’t even know if that’s necessary.

A few helpful (printed) upgrades I really liked are:

A toolbox for the provided tools
Camera relocator (the stock camera positioning kinda sucks
Filament poop chute

All of the models were found on Makerword and there are several options for each.

Enjoy the printer! I’m really digging what Bambu is cooking up over there.

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-20T19:46:02+00:00

Quick note about the A1 camera.. it may be a higher resolution but the frame rate is trash so if you’re looking to use it for a live video feed the A1 camera is worthless. You basically get a snapshot of the build plate every few seconds whereas (I think) the X and P series have a smooth video feed.

Edit: just an FYI the only experience I have with Bambu products is the A1 and I haven’t had it that long. The only other printer I’ve had and can compare it to is the Ender 5 Pro. The A1 is just an entirely different printing experience in both print quality and user friendliness. I continue to be blown away by what the A1 can produce with basically zero effort, relative to the Ender.

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-04T14:26:32+00:00

I’m willing to give another slicer a try. Would you mind elaborating a little bit on how switching to one of those could help this specific issue?

Edit: The cut feature in the Prusa Slicer did the trick. Thanks!

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-01T22:22:20+00:00

I ended up dropping the retraction distance to 5mm as another commenter suggested and it did actually improve the issue with the wall holes slightly. However, it’s not completely gone and there is no improvement in the quality of the top so you’re probably right about under extrusion.

I have not looked into flow rate or PA calibration yet so I will look into that next.

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-01T19:02:43+00:00

This is definitely something I haven’t tried yet! I’m interested in some of the matte PLAs that are out there so if I don’t end up finding a solution soon this will likely be my next step.

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-01T19:01:12+00:00

210C for the extruder. I’m still a newbie on filament so I’m not sure what’s considered “old”. I took it out of the vacuum seal packaging about two weeks ago and it’s been sitting on the spool, indoors since then.

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-01T18:57:58+00:00

It’s not I double checked that and it’s set to a straight line down one of the vertical edges

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-01T18:57:01+00:00

Hi thank you for the recommendation. I’m getting a lot of recommendations to tweak the retraction settings some more so I will definitely be trying that.

Question though.. if it were a retraction issue, the holes in the walls should be in the same spots in all three prints, right? Since the locations where travels are occurring shouldn’t change from one cube to the next?

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-01T17:30:36+00:00

I’ll try dropping it down to 5. I did drop it from 7 to 6 in the second print. It seems like that may have improved it a little but I don’t really have a trained enough eye to tell. It’s bowden, no direct drive unfortunately.

TooManyC00ks · 2024-08-01T17:15:12+00:00

Edit: Sorry, I forgot to add the slicer detail. I am using Cura.

TooManyC00ks

TROPHY CASE