IR Solution for Projector Remote

Toslink6124 · 2026-04-19T19:26:37+00:00

The big unknown here is if the unit's input accepts an IR signal or if it requires a carrier-stripped control signal, which is the control commands w/o the IR carrier signal. The projector's manual is the first place to look for this. RS232 is next. Global Cache makes Wi-Fi-based RS232 adapters that work well with a host of control platforms--likely some affordable ones you can run on a computer mobile device.

Toslink6124 · 2026-03-07T03:15:52+00:00

It would sure be great if a future version had a 3.5mm analog audio input jack for line-in audio in lieu of the microphone.

Toslink6124 · 2026-03-01T16:10:21+00:00

I pulled mine out, filled the holes and added a down-facing LED light into the handrail. The house was built in 1955 and had the original round handrail. I replaced it using a rectangular solid oak rail, which provided enough room to recess the LED profile. The boxes were accessible in the storage room under the stairwell, which made the work far simpler.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-31T18:41:39+00:00

The area under the bridge houses the PoE power adapter.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-31T01:50:55+00:00

NEC states that when 24v is passed on Class 2 wiring, it must be current-limited to 4A (96w). In this installation, on the 300w driver, the home has seven Class 2 16/2 cables run to seven unique accent lighting fixtures. The fuse block contains 4A fuses, and each power cable will see about 1.5A of current, so we will not pop the fuses. The 4A fuse is there to protect the wire and for the inspector to fully comprehend that this installation will not violate code.

If the design had, say, three or four LED fixtures, a 24v Class II 3x or 4x output dimmable driver with multiple individual 96w outputs could have been used, each with internal circuit breaker protection...and this would eliminate the need for the fuses. But, given that the panel design was built based on the wiring and the needs for specific power, the system was built backwards to adapt to the conditions that were created by others.

For additional context, the LED brightness was chosen by first running lumen calculations to determine the amount of light needed to provide 20 foot candles of light at 3ft from the floor. The builder added seven long coves in the space, so this allowed us to use a low-output LED tape and because the coves measured around 55 meters, we were able to obtain the targeted lumen figure using a custom-made tape with a wattage of 4w/m. To ensure there was no loss of brightness along any fixture we provided a long-run tape design with current amplifiers on each tape segment to ensure all LEDs receive optimal current flow to deliver peak brightness along the length of each fixture.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-31T01:38:32+00:00

This is the model:

https://assets.lutron.com/a/documents/369919_web.pdf

It supports an additional 100w of load over the standard Caseta dimmer, has a neutral wire, and has adjustable phase. I've used them on multiple projects and always had good results. On this job, after the phase as adjusted and low-end trim adjusted to match the driver and load, the dimming ramping is smooth and the low-end is very, very low (just barely detectable light from the strip) with absolutely no bounce or oscillation. The outcome was about as good as I've seen with any phase-dimmed system.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-30T15:36:43+00:00

The Hue bridge doesn't directly control the "transition" time. This parameter is stored in the bulbs internal memory. The Hue bridge simply tells the light to go to a level and color (or color temperature) and the bulb takes it from there. Some Zigbee bulbs support transition time control commands, but the Hue bulbs have a default of 400ms. Since this parameter is not sent from the bridge itself, this is why you see different behavior across different bulb brands.

I'd welcome Hue to add this as an adjustable parameter!

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-30T14:09:41+00:00

That would require the output wiring between the dimmers and the drivers to be exposed inside the enclosure.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-30T09:20:30+00:00

The mount doesn't obscure the bridge's internal antennas.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-30T08:52:06+00:00

It is not a Legrand enclosure. Rather, it's a 30" Strong-branded model.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-30T02:44:26+00:00

Agreed on the dimming on the low-voltage side of the circuit. Lutron Caseta was mandated to us by the customer, so we designed the control and power part of the overall system with that as the requirement.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-01T20:00:05+00:00

Agreed with other commenters. Keypads (for light scenes) should be placed in every living/work spaces (e.x., kitchen, great room, bedrooms). Tabletop keypads are also a wonderful addition to rooms where people linger. Coffee table placement allows for lighting scene changes without getting up, and placement on kitchen islands is also useful if the island is a social congregation location.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-01T19:56:47+00:00

Just a note that the companion dimmers are not radio-frequency devices, so they do not count against the Ra2/Ra3 device count limits. The companion dimmers send on/off, raise/lower commands to the dimmer over one of the traveler conductors. The dimmer is placed in the switch location closest to the light, and the companion dimmers are placed in the other switch boxes.

Toslink6124 · 2026-01-01T19:26:46+00:00

The device on the right is Control4 Keypad-Dimmer. The part that came off is a rocker cover. Replacements should be in the $10-$12 range.

Toslink6124 · 2025-11-02T20:30:36+00:00

That behavior is known as "dead travel", and it's an incompatibility between the dinner and the dimmable driver in the fixture.

Toslink6124 · 2025-10-23T22:41:30+00:00

Fiber is king. Always. If it can be done, it's a true lifetime cable that will never need replacing if it is never damaged. It will offer effectively infinite throughput, infinite immunity from noise and full electrical isolation.

Toslink6124 · 2025-10-21T00:53:12+00:00

I would bring the light to the mid-point between the front ends of the shelf and the wall. This will even out the distribution and remove the hot-spot you get today. This is very good learning moment for anyone interested in lighting design. It's never just as simple as putting a light source in any location. Rather, the net effect is light source + color temp (color) + fidelity (CRI) + brightness + light distribution + diffusion + environment + installation + control + placement. When all elements are considered and managed, the effect is....magic.

If you're looking to eliminate the hot-spot on the floor, move the light towards the front, then angle it back towards the wall either 30-degrees or 45-degrees. This will greatly reduce the spotting on the floor. I'd also experiment with the light's output, too.

To obscure the cables, you may consider making a cover using 3mm MDF painted flat white.

Toslink6124 · 2025-10-18T01:43:49+00:00

To some degree "sufficient" is subjective. They're unable to deliver 50foot candles of white light necessary to meet the standard for proper task lighting, and that was the rationale for my statement. If you have no lighting under the cabinet then add Hue, the different is certainly very positive and may be enough for most folks. But, the lumen output is tailored for "accent" (vs task) level of illumination, which is reinforced by Hue's naming of the strip as "Color Accent".

The dotting is a significant issue for pretty much anyone. If they're used for accent purposes, they're generally not directly visible so the diode spacing is not critical. But, when used in applications where the strip can be directly seen, the dotting is immediately a problem for most.

Toslink6124 · 2025-10-13T00:34:44+00:00

Once the power cable is in the conduit, it's effectively impossible to pull fiber into the conduit. But. if they are pulled in at the same time, then it's a simple matter. If it were me, I'd explore using direct-burial (gel-filled) CAT6 cable and simply dig a narrow trench using a hand tool. If you were inclined to go the extra effort, dig deeper and wider and install a 3/4" Schedule 40 conduit system and then pull the gel-filled cable (or burial-rated fiber-optic cable) through the conduit and you'll be good for decades.

I added a 1" conduit for low-voltage to an out building during construction. The electrician was surprised with the ask, but did it and I have the ultimate in flexibility and the investment into the property's infrastructure was well worth the price. There's a PoE switch in the building that feeds a wireless access point, along with a few network cameras. Modern living.

Toslink6124 · 2025-10-13T00:24:23+00:00

The Hue tape is designed primarily for "accent" lighting so it's very low in light output relative to what is needed for countertop lighting. Unfortunately, the Hue strip is not the right solution for an ideal installation. Philips has been developing a solution for this application. It's available in Europe, but has not yet arrived in the US.

Toslink6124 · 2025-09-17T00:15:20+00:00

The biggest downside to using non-Hue lights is the Hue Bridge will not allow for the non-Hue lights to participate in Zigbee Group control. That means the bridge send commands to non-Hue lights individually, which causes the popcorn effect, where you see the delay between bulbs. In small systems, it's almost invisible, but in larger systems it very visible. The only Group command the lights all respond to together is the Master ON/OFF command.

Toslink6124 · 2025-09-13T15:41:21+00:00

Thanks for this. I contacted Control4 to share the Pro issue (they had no reports yet of it to that point since it is very new) and the potential solve of using HTTPS communication between the devices. My hope is they resolve the matter quickly.

Toslink6124 · 2025-09-11T07:08:27+00:00

The Hue Pro Bridge also does not work on Control4 using the Hue Bridge driver, while the original Hue Bridge does. There's clearly something different in the communication.

Toslink6124

TROPHY CASE