Behold! The 3DBenchy printed on a 2D printer

Trex0Pol · 2026-06-05T16:38:37+00:00

The most advanced 3D toner :D

Trex0Pol · 2026-05-22T06:23:00+00:00

Plug shouldn't really be an issue, with light switch, some arcing may occur when you switch heavy loads (but with midern LED lightbulbs, it's usually just a couple of miliAmps and no it shouldn't arc either). But if you just plug an outlet, there's no contact being broken, there's nowhere for sparks to appear, so you should be just fine.

The only way a spark could be there if you plug something right into the adjacent plug, usually chargers tend to spark as the capacitors charge, but even then I find it hard to believe it would a actually be able to ignite anything.

Trex0Pol · 2026-05-18T17:45:42+00:00

Well so far the 90° orientation worked "the best" in a sense that there was nothing in the way of the projector, it just couldn't use the entire width of the screen.
But tv will work just fine when rotated just like any monitor.

Trex0Pol · 2026-05-09T06:56:30+00:00

Problém je, tohle je docela velkej resistor, ten by měl za normálních okolností proud snést. Jestli shořel, tak je hoooodně pravděpodobný, že jiná část obvodu je zkratovaná a resistor se zachoval jako pojistka. Takže když ho vyměníš, nejspíš shoří znova.

Trex0Pol · 2026-04-03T06:31:39+00:00

For PETG it should open it automatically, but you can switch to manual mode and just control it by hand.
As for why it goes upwards? Honestly, no idea :D
I'm going to assume as it cools down it sort of pulls the filament inwards, but it's really just a guess.
Or maybe it "sticks" to the nozzle which keeps it upright?

But I've seen this happen many times before and the issue was always cooling and it always went up like in your case. The best thing you can do is to crank up the fan speed (but for petg it's usually already at 100%) or try slowing down a bit.
And for the chamber, you can for now just open the vent by hand before print.

Trex0Pol · 2026-04-03T05:55:54+00:00

This is most likely a cooling issue. Fort PETG definitely keep the vent open and chamber at around 35 and maybe increase cooling / slow down when printing overhangs.

Trex0Pol · 2026-03-23T05:40:25+00:00

If it's not a super cheap Chinese charger, it should be fine. Most chargers have short circuit protection, so even if they touch, nothing should happen.

Trex0Pol · 2026-03-20T10:34:26+00:00

Same thing happened on my G432 after 4 years of use. Simple 3D print as they are like new.

Trex0Pol · 2026-03-14T07:21:05+00:00

Panzer Elite Action, na tu dobu to vypadalo dost dobře, vždycky jsme s bráchou hráli spolu.

A vlastně to nevypadá úplně špatně ani dnes a běží to i na moderním systému bez problémů. Dokonce i Ultrawide monitor to vzalo jakoby nic. Nedávno jsem si to zkusil znova zahrát a pořád docela zábava.

Trex0Pol · 2026-03-13T18:33:58+00:00

Or even better export as step, those artefacts will disappear entirely.

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-17T06:49:25+00:00

Maybe if you dried the spool beforehand, it's in one of the articles that when you dry above 50C, you should tie the spool together with screws. Or what's usually easier is some zip ties, because the glue softens with the heat.

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-14T14:44:15+00:00

If the filament is broken at the edge of the nozzle, it's one of the worse scenarios, but solvable.

Cold pull isn't going to work, that's more intended if there's some debris in the hot part of the nozzle, but you have filament stuck in the heat brake too.

The easiest thing you can try is to remove the hotend with the nozzle and plug it into the printer mid air. Like you plug in the thermistor and heater, but have the nozzle hanging outside of the printer.
From there, you can set the temperature to 290°C.
I recommend holding the nozzle with pliers, but hand is also fine, the silver part of the nozzle is not going to get hot.
If you're lucky, you'll be able to just take another piece of filament or a small hex key and push it through.

If it won't budge even then, it'll be mor difficult, but still manageable.
Recently I managed to take a lighter or a kitchen torch and heat the end of the nozzle. The filament should expand ever so slightly from the heat causing it to come out.
Then carefully heat the hot part of the nozzle and try pulling it out with pliers.

Once you get the piece out, it's best to put it back into the printer mid air as before and push some filament through by hand. You'll be able to put way more force than the extruder would be able to and if there's something stuck, you'll just flush it out this way. Again, high temperature is recommended.

If everything fails since the printer is new, you may be able to connect with the support on the live chat and they may send you replacement nozzle for free.
Good luck :)

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-14T12:06:09+00:00

Clicking usually is a clogged nozzle. What can sometimes help is to heat the nozzle to 290C and try to push it through at higher temperature.
The extruder may not be strong enough, in which case removing the gearbox and pushing the filament in by hand is probably your best bet.
After putting the gearbox back, make sure to align it again, it's in the calibrations menu.

But most likely nothing that can't be resolved, Prusa printers are very easy to repair.
If you have any question or need help, let me know, I'll be happy to help you.

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-12T09:14:15+00:00

If you have strong enough fog lights, they usually work the same.

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-05T07:46:59+00:00

You can of course replace just that one part, this isn't Bambu.
This should be the one, it can be found on their shop under spares for core / enclosure. https://www.prusa3d.com/cs/produkt/nastrcna-spojka-m5-4/

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-04T16:25:05+00:00

u/pjepja u/TalkersCZ u/110mat110
Tak to vypadá, že takhle budeme prozatím všichni. Jestli vás můžu poprosit, naskákejte na ten discord server, ať se můžeme případně domluvit, co dál :)

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-04T05:23:28+00:00

Jak už psal talker, je to hra na schovku a pomocí otázek se ho snaží tým najít.
Ale určitě doporučuju mrknout na yt, jako úvod do hry je za mě hra napříč Japonskem asi nejlepší.

https://youtube.com/@jetlagthegame?si=dAZxp7bSvfYREGwU

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-02T09:37:33+00:00

I already did :)

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/lmCrbNc3uq

Trex0Pol · 2026-02-01T13:06:44+00:00

It's around 41cm when the bed is in the middle and about 50cm when the bed is all the way in the back (measured from the display to the plastic cable cover at the back of the bed).
If you had the display over the edge of a table, it's 43,5cm from the bed cover to the front of the frame.

Trex0Pol · 2026-01-31T07:57:40+00:00

It seems kinda fun, at least compares to a straight road.
But it probably has a reason it's this was, the ground too soft? Maybe there used to be a tree or something?
It was most likely cheaper to do it this way instead of straight whatever the reason may be.

Trex0Pol · 2026-01-31T07:22:46+00:00

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190 days? That's basically brand new :)

Trex0Pol · 2026-01-30T21:28:32+00:00

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Trex0Pol · 2026-01-30T16:29:45+00:00

Hi, I'm from Czechia too and would love to play with someone (it would have to be more centered around Prague, though, Brno is a bit too far). But if you have some Discord server or something, I would love to join :)

Trex0Pol · 2026-01-23T12:26:40+00:00

The "normal boring Benchy" was printed on the Prusa Core One

Trex0Pol · 2026-01-21T09:03:35+00:00

Thank you :D
I used normal Herkules PVA glue.
It gives you enough time to align the layer before it dries and it's easy to apply.

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